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Old 11-28-2015, 06:55 PM   #151
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Thanks I found it. Cable was messed up on the the control.
Any thoughts on why I keep blowing the fan/blower motor fuse? I tried unplugging the resistor, still blows when you turn the key on. Left that unplugged and still blows with the dash speed switch unplugged. The blower motor is all that's left correct? I didnt that had power with the resistor unplugged. Thanks !!!
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Old 12-23-2015, 12:29 PM   #152
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I have seen it asked in a couple of posts, but am not finding an answer...

How hard is it to replace the blower fan? My '89YJ the heater has been working great no issues on any settings, but it just quite this week.... I have feel very light heat come out the defrost, but there is no control with he fan lever, it used to work perfect... so I am assuming its a fuse or a blower fan death...

any write ups on how to replace a blower fan??

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Old 12-24-2015, 12:55 AM   #153
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Quote:
Originally Posted by superdiver View Post
I have seen it asked in a couple of posts, but am not finding an answer... How hard is it to replace the blower fan? My '89YJ the heater has been working great no issues on any settings, but it just quite this week.... I have feel very light heat come out the defrost, but there is no control with he fan lever, it used to work perfect... so I am assuming its a fuse or a blower fan death... any write ups on how to replace a blower fan??
What are the exact problems? Does it only run slow, only run on the high setting, is there any difference between all 3, is it off on all three fan positions?
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Old 12-24-2015, 01:22 AM   #154
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Look at my write up [about pg3] To replace the blower& fan assy is easy....Put a chev- Blazer unit in, you gotta GRIND the Hole in the firewall abit [1/4 inch all around the motor unit and clean or replace the heater core while your there.
Now...GETTING TO IT IS A REAL PAIN ...but it IS Sooo worth it. Mine will heat your Butt out out of the jeep at +10 degrees now, but I do cover the center of my radiator[about a 8" wide piece of Rubber down the whole center of the unit during winter] there are good write ups on the 'Pirate4x4' site too! You may have to raise the battery with a 3/4 inch piece of wood under it to clear the Motor vent tube...you will see when you get the unit apart....it really is worth the labor , you gotta get in there anyway to find a Shorted wire or test the motor anyway so just plan on doing it right and you [and your toes will thank yourself!] I personally do really hate the whole slide control unit on the dash, with vacuum and elec switches all together in that assy, but I didn't have the time to re-design something else.....I disconnected the 'VENT Cable from the box,Blocked the Outside Cowl vent hole and just cut a hole in the INTAKE Plenum tube so all my heat is Re-Circulated now. pull the passenger seat out and take your time getting the lower dash apart...that is the worst part of this task..GOOD Luck! Merry Christmas....'Jerryjeep'
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Old 12-25-2015, 02:36 PM   #155
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The heater had been working great. No issues, tons of heat, switch worked as designed.

I replaced the engine last year with a rebuilt one, same model, 6 cylinder 4.2, did the Nutter Bypass, and got rid of all that crap, new carb, cleaned out the heater core (the heater KINDA worked before the new engine work) but since then it has been great.

Now this last week I noticed I wasn't getting any defrost. So I went to turn the fan on as I thought maybe I had shut it off when I drove it last (I live in a rainforest in AK so as a rule the defrost is always going). But it was on high already. And the only air movement I get is passive when the car warms up a bit. Probably not even as much as low is in the switch.

I get no fan sound and no air coming thru anything unless it is warm, but it's so minimal I think it's just passive air movement, less then the "low" setting on the fan I believe. Also, my engine is heating as normal up to like 230 then the valve opens and it goes down to 190ish and stays there unless in am making it work hard on hills in low gears as would be expected. At least in my mind as expected. Which doesn't mean squat. LOL.
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Old 12-29-2015, 06:47 PM   #156
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Okey we've got the blower going, the contacts in the system are all clean, it now blows well. The problem we're running into is that the temp selector lever does not move all the way to the cool side, it does move all the way to the heat side. UnfortunatLy we get NO heat at all! We aren't sure if it's in the linkage for the temp control or the gate. Any input would be appreciated. (1995 Wrangler YJ, new to us)
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Old 12-31-2015, 05:18 PM   #157
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OK, so a further update, my fan is now working great again. Now that I can control the fan with he switch, i would have to retract what i said about the fan not working at all, but rather it was only blowing on the lowest setting (I think). When it was malfunctioning, some air moved thru it, but I thought it was just passive, but its more like the volume of the lowest setting.

Is it more likely the regulator or the switch malfunctioning?

Also, i remember reading somewhere on here that when it was very cold the fan sometimes didn't work, We were going thru a cold snap (for us) and the temps were in the high 20s F. When i read about the cold affecting the operation of the fan i was thinking much colder then that...
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Old 01-09-2016, 04:06 PM   #158
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need to replace air vent cable. Any suggestions?
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Old 01-15-2016, 07:21 PM   #159
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So now it is working again... so I really don't know what the issue is... any ideas?
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Old 03-31-2016, 02:12 PM   #160
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great post.... very informative

the cable that controls the warm/cool must be stretched out on my 92. it will work moving it to cool but only halfway open the gate to the heater core only allowing moderate warm air through. no biggie because I just reach down and finish moving it the rest of the way under the passenger dash by hand but curious if a new cable would fix this ? Also, mine works on defrost and heat but won't allow me to move over to vent so I need to investigate that further...?
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Old 06-05-2016, 11:09 AM   #161
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Got this annoying rattle coming from under the glovebox / vent area? Anything known to come loose in the plenum?
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Old 06-06-2016, 11:45 AM   #162
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Could possibly be the cold/heat air door has broken loose or something has fell down the defrost duct into the heater box, such as a lighter, pen etc.
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Old 06-25-2016, 08:16 PM   #163
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KentuckyMike View Post
Could possibly be the cold/heat air door has broken loose or something has fell down the defrost duct into the heater box, such as a lighter, pen etc.
How do you get access into the unit? I have a very annoying rattle coming from inside, near or around the heater core.

I live in Hawaii, and I was actually considering just removing the whole heater system completely? I've removed heater cores that have cracked before in old cars I've owned in the past. Thanks in advance.

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Old 06-29-2016, 07:10 AM   #164
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Ben View Post
How do you get access into the unit? I have a very annoying rattle coming from inside, near or around the heater core.

I live in Hawaii, and I was actually considering just removing the whole heater system completely? I've removed heater cores that have cracked before in old cars I've owned in the past. Thanks in advance.

Uncle Ben


You have to remove the heater unit from the Jeep and open the back of it by removing the back panel, which is up against the firewall when it's inside the Jeep. To do this, you disconnect the cables to the box, undo the nuts in the engine compartment that hold the heater box up, drop the A/C unit and lay it on the floor (if you have A/C), disconnect the heater hoses from the heater core nipples at the firewall, disconnect the blower motor wiring, and then wiggle the unit out.

It's not really that bad of a job, just takes some time. As for removing the unit permanently, I don't see why you'd really want to, it would just leave a large ugly expanse of unused space in your dash area. If you did that, you'd also need to remove the heater hoses from the water pump tube and the thermostat housing and either plug them or run a tube from one to the other. I don't really see the benefit of doing all that though.

I would fix whatever is wrong with your heater, maybe put a new core and blower motor in it, and then reinstall it and leave it on "vent" mode all the time since you live in Hawaii. The extra airflow from the vent mode is nice sometime.


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Old 06-30-2016, 02:53 PM   #165
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BPritchard95 View Post
You have to remove the heater unit from the Jeep and open the back of it by removing the back panel, which is up against the firewall when it's inside the Jeep. To do this, you disconnect the cables to the box, undo the nuts in the engine compartment that hold the heater box up, drop the A/C unit and lay it on the floor (if you have A/C), disconnect the heater hoses from the heater core nipples at the firewall, disconnect the blower motor wiring, and then wiggle the unit out.

It's not really that bad of a job, just takes some time. As for removing the unit permanently, I don't see why you'd really want to, it would just leave a large ugly expanse of unused space in your dash area. If you did that, you'd also need to remove the heater hoses from the water pump tube and the thermostat housing and either plug them or run a tube from one to the other. I don't really see the benefit of doing all that though.

I would fix whatever is wrong with your heater, maybe put a new core and blower motor in it, and then reinstall it and leave it on "vent" mode all the time since you live in Hawaii. The extra airflow from the vent mode is nice sometime.


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Thanks for the information on how to remove and work on the unit. I have had old muscle cars that the heater cores have cracked and I just removed the whole unit. I am familiar with just running a bypass hose to complete the cooling circuit in the engine compartment.

I guess I was just looking for an easy way out, I'm just frustrated with the rattle.
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Old 06-30-2016, 02:56 PM   #166
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Ben View Post
Thanks for the information on how to remove and work on the unit. I have had old muscle cars that the heater cores have cracked and I just removed the whole unit. I am familiar with just running a bypass hose to complete the cooling circuit in the engine compartment.

I guess I was just looking for an easy way out, I'm just frustrated with the rattle.


I have a rattle somewhere that happens when I'm just barely out of range in a gear and accelerating hard. For example, 2nd gear at 5 mph, then I decide to start speeding up. I've removed everything, tried driving without the heater, front seat, removed dash panels, it's still there. I'm convinced it's inside my passenger door...it's frustrating. I thought it was my heater box but when I took that apart, nothing was wrong with it at all. I've given up for the most part but I have some confidence it's my door. Not sure what else it could be. It's a pain to diagnose that kind of stuff for sure, though.


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Old 07-01-2016, 01:38 AM   #167
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Hey BP, Yes There are potential Rattles within a jeep door!

[Let us Not Send this Thread in a different direction, But, There are Little flat and looped 'Tabs' to hold your Locking mechanical linkage (rods)'Steady' They all break eventually.
...get in there and 'Tack weld some new ones and your rattle will be gone...Been There!]
Good luck! , jerryjeep

PS: My Heater STILL Kicks Butt in My YJ !!
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Old 07-27-2016, 10:48 AM   #168
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So, it seems that this thread has become something huge and I could say that I have read it all, but the truth is I lost myself after a few pages, I hope not to disturb anyone, but my problem is the following and if someone in this amazing forum could help me, I would be so grateful.

Besides that, my dad and me start a year ago restoring a 94 wrangler and we had to change the chassis because it was in very bad conditions, anyways, now my problem is that the floor overheats a lot and I do not know how to solve, if someone could point me in the right directions, would be grate.

thanks
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Old 07-29-2016, 02:05 AM   #169
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Hey Comemundo, about your 'Hotfoot'...

Too Hot Floor?? These engines/Transmission/Trans case Can brew some Heat!
I'm guessing your running the 6cyl Motor With the 'Header'? Well mine was HOT this way too.
Couple things I did That may help You is Routing your exhaust 'Forward' around the front of your oilpan {a good exhaust pro can do this with the Pieces of your existing Pipes, just cut, re-arange, and reweld} The other thing was, I did a 1 inch body lift ! Don't know if this will fix your Project, but as I said I did these mods to my 91yj [Not because of 'That' Problem] But I don't have that 'Hot Foot' anymore. So maybe that was it?! The inside of my Rig is painted w/bedliner but I don't think that helped that prob so much....[It is Black] but every bit of insulation could'nt hurt.
The pipe Relocation was because I think it was pretty stupid to have that hanging down as the lowest thing under my jeep!! But I'm sure the added air flow [of the body lift] around my trans helps out alot with the Floorboard issue so i'm glad that worked out for me!
...Anyway, Hope this experience helps You! That's what this Forum is for!!
Sorry again for the Blabbing in the 'Heater thread' But you did ask! ....But let us know if this works if you try it!...Jerreyjeep
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Old 07-30-2016, 10:26 AM   #170
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Originally Posted by jerreyjeep View Post
Too Hot Floor?? These engines/Transmission/Trans case Can brew some Heat!
I'm guessing your running the 6cyl Motor With the 'Header'? Well mine was HOT this way too.
Couple things I did That may help You is Routing your exhaust 'Forward' around the front of your oilpan {a good exhaust pro can do this with the Pieces of your existing Pipes, just cut, re-arange, and reweld} The other thing was, I did a 1 inch body lift ! Don't know if this will fix your Project, but as I said I did these mods to my 91yj [Not because of 'That' Problem] But I don't have that 'Hot Foot' anymore. So maybe that was it?! The inside of my Rig is painted w/bedliner but I don't think that helped that prob so much....[It is Black] but every bit of insulation could'nt hurt.
The pipe Relocation was because I think it was pretty stupid to have that hanging down as the lowest thing under my jeep!! But I'm sure the added air flow [of the body lift] around my trans helps out alot with the Floorboard issue so i'm glad that worked out for me!
...Anyway, Hope this experience helps You! That's what this Forum is for!!
Sorry again for the Blabbing in the 'Heater thread' But you did ask! ....But let us know if this works if you try it!...Jerreyjeep

First of all thank you so much for answering, I'll be trying out this options, and keep you posted!
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Old 11-19-2016, 02:51 PM   #171
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yj heater problem

When I engage my heater I get nice warm air for about 2 or 3 seconds. Then cold air. It worked great last winter? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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Old 11-22-2016, 07:12 PM   #172
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I have an issue with the vent on my 93 YJ. When I move the selector to vent, the system basically turns off. No noise, no air, even the passenger vent door doesn't move. I suspect a cable is seized or broken. However, I can't figure out which cable. I tried following the diagram on page 1, but it's tough without pictures to know where the cable is.

I tried searching the 18 pages on this thread, after reading most of then, to no avail.

Any help? Or pictures? Or video?
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Old 11-24-2016, 02:58 AM   #173
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the slide mechanisms do brake, and my motor never ran when it was in the vent position,[i think that's normal]but i disconnected the cable anyway.....if i need air, i open my window. ya just might hafta pull it to really see what's goin on there, sorry.
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Old 11-24-2016, 10:58 AM   #174
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Yeah, I've been following the Vent==Window strategy, but it's just one of those things that bugs me. I don't like when things don't work . I guess I'll have to pull it out. Thanks.
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Old 12-24-2016, 10:44 PM   #175
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Originally Posted by Dr. Venture View Post
i am telling you guys. I removed the complete assembly. There is no hole for a light, less it is an aftermarket piece. but i am positive!!!!
The bulb for the controller is smaller than the 192 bulbs used elsewhere in the jeep. There is about a 3/16" hold r on the back side of the controller. You may not recognize it due to smaller size. Fyi

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Old 12-24-2016, 11:23 PM   #176
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Where is the Vacuum Motor located?
Located on top of the cowl intake plenum. This separates from the heater core box, but you may be able to see the vacuum motor with the glove box removed. Typically there is either no vacuum getting to the controller due to leak under hood/dash, or a bad motor or an obstruction in the plenum, such as leaves/etc.
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Old 12-24-2016, 11:54 PM   #177
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I've noticed my left side Cowl gate and the end are missing. Is there anywhere to get a replacement end cap and cowl gate ?
I'd suggest some duct tape

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Old 12-25-2016, 12:02 AM   #178
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Originally Posted by YJBridgett View Post
K, so first, I'm new here (yep, posted in the newbie thread )

Secondly, I did read through this thread looking for an answer to my issue, but I'm not seeing anything realted, hence my post!

I'm getting a small/moderate amount of smoke in the cab (passenger) area, seems to be coming in from around the shifter knob (??), but ONLY when my heater is on.

Now, I have a 2" lift, and when my buddy put that on (he owned it at the time), he said the boot around the shifter knob isn't going all the way down and through to where it's originally installed without the lift, cause if he did, then the extra stretch/pull would try to pull it out of gear. He suspects maybe an exhaust leak that is coming into the cab when the heater is pulling air (?). But... we wanted to check the forums, see if anyone had a clue. I'm gonna hit my Chiltons manual here in a bit too...

Any advice, suggestions would be great.
Could be an exhaust leak getting in, or possibly oil leaking into exhaust pipe and burning off. A visual inspection from underneath with verify suspicions.

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Old 12-25-2016, 12:08 AM   #179
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temp gets to around 240 before the t-stat opens. was always right at 210 until this winter. only difference from last winter when it was fine is a new radiator. also, the air from the vents isn't warm until the t-stat opens and if the RPM's are above idle. then the air is warm until it hits about 200 then gets cold until the t-stat opens again. any ideas?
I think this is the circuit that actually turns the blower motor on/off. The switch on the left just controls motor speed.

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Old 12-27-2016, 01:00 AM   #180
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I have also had a 'fume' leak at my transfercase shifter the was easily remedied by pulling the shift boot and cutting 2 pieces of rubber sheeting the same pattern as the boot and putting a slit in both for the shifters Full movement.....Then cutting another smaller 'square' piece with a 'hole in the center' for the shift lever to tightly fit through.
re-assemble these like a sandwich so the snug fitting small piece slides in-between the slotted sheets. No more Leak under/thru the boot!
[I Fixed the emmence amount of Heat that came off the eng/header/trans in the so.Cal desert with this fix, now it works just as well for me in the 'single digits' or less i get here in So.Dakota] Happy New Year !

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