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Old 05-27-2009, 10:14 PM   #1
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Angry YJ Over-Heating

Hey whats up guys having another problem this time Elaine is overheating.While driving it from my garage to my house i had to stop about 5 times from a 40 block radius.the temp gauge is past its reading and its not just overheating by a liltle bit but by a lot.When i stop i usaully have smoke coming off my hood, not to much though and its like white smoke. I have a Custom anti-Freeze reservoir so when i took the top of slowly i can hear the antifreeze start to build its way back into the resorivr so it can shoot itself out , i understand that the system is under pressure.so i waited while waiting i seen that all my hoses where hot and there was a bubbly sound .The engine some how is taking all my antifreeze i keep putting in and it just takes more so i refilled it with some water and i left the heater on.This helped a lil on the gauge it acuatally stood in the middle but sometimes went right back up.i checked the dipstick to see if it was like a milkshake fluid -(antifreeze and oil mixing together) and it was regular. Some people have told me some reasons of what can be happening my head could be warped, or my thermostat can be bad. Any one experience this ? I was going to try tommorow flushing the system and running water without the thermostat.I was told if it doesnt overheat its the thermostat but if it does than its the head. Please let me know on what steps or evaultions or checks i should do first without spending cash on the wroung things.I also heard the heater core can cuz this to.Thanks guys

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Old 05-27-2009, 10:24 PM   #2
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Could be a bad stat OR you have a bad head gasket and it is weaping fluid into an exhaust port which means you are blowing it out the tail pipe. if the rig is sitting cold start it up with the radiator cap off and look to see if fluid is bubling alot, like it is seeing pressure or just flowing it out the filler neck at a high rate.

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Old 05-27-2009, 10:51 PM   #3
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well from what i see i defentially have a bad head gasket theres black sludge around it proably old oil that leaked out .so if it bubbles up then what?and if it doesnt ?
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Old 05-27-2009, 11:07 PM   #4
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take the overflow hose and put it in a soda bottle fillled with water put the bottle in a place whare you can see it from the inside of the jeep get the engine up to temp watch the bottel while u power brake the jeep see if you can see bubbels in the bottle
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Old 05-27-2009, 11:11 PM   #5
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what will the bubbles determine?
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Old 05-27-2009, 11:20 PM   #6
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what will the bubbles determine?
the bubbles will determine that exhaust gases are getting into the cooling system meaning a blown head gasket or cracked head
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Old 05-27-2009, 11:33 PM   #7
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ohh okay sorry for some of the noobness just learning as i go.It could Also be a warped head right? should i leave the cap on the radiator on or off when i do what you told me
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Old 05-27-2009, 11:42 PM   #8
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a warped head would blow the head gasket leave the cap on
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Old 05-28-2009, 12:06 AM   #9
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a warped head would blow the head gasket leave the cap on
Thanks I think your explanation was better than what I tried to convey.
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Old 05-28-2009, 06:18 AM   #10
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I would want to find out where the coolant is going. ide want to find out if thermostat is opening. ide want to know if waterpump is effectively pumping.
first take a really really good look at engine top and bottom for coolant stains also look at bottom of rad support. ide want to know what kind of external leak if any. start engine cold and open cap on radiator. fill to top with water, most bad headgaskets will start blowing bubbles even cold and usually kinda violently but water/engine will be cold so no fear of burns. if it isnt bubbling let it run a few minutes up to temp and leave cap off throw a rag over it to prevent big splashes. feel upper and lower hoses. at operating temp they should both be hot. lower staying cold is either a thermostat or waterpump. at any point if coolant starts really boiling out just shut off jeep and let cool down. Do Not try putting cap on cause you will get burned.

Also dont ever work on a suspected overheating engine with a cap on, remove cap and cover with a heavy rag or a wash cloth. pressurized hoses burst and will really ruin your day.
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Old 05-28-2009, 05:32 PM   #11
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You want to know if the head gasket is trashed? Drain your oil. If there is way too much oil you know where the anti-freeze is going. If the oil is good then you may have an air pocket in the cooling system.
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Old 05-28-2009, 05:37 PM   #12
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You want to know if the head gasket is trashed? Drain your oil. If there is way too much oil you know where the anti-freeze is going. If the oil is good then you may have an air pocket in the cooling system.
it could be leaking into the combustion chamber
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Old 05-28-2009, 05:38 PM   #13
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it could be leaking into the combustion chamber

I think he would notice the cloud of white smoke coming out the exhaust.
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Old 05-28-2009, 08:49 PM   #14
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Radiator stop leak causes the coolant to look oily & black. The little pellets also make it lumpy sometimes.

If underside of oil filler cap is waxy, the coolant is getting into the oil.
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Old 05-28-2009, 09:13 PM   #15
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Radiator stop leak causes the coolant to look oily & black. The little pellets also make it lumpy sometimes.

If underside of oil filler cap is waxy, the coolant is getting into the oil.
The first part I agree with. The waxy filler cap though? NO WAY! that mean there is for sure coolant in the oil. Mainly it would be condensation from lots of short trips.
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Old 05-29-2009, 12:34 AM   #16
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The first part I agree with. The waxy filler cap though? NO WAY! that mean there is for sure coolant in the oil. Mainly it would be condensation from lots of short trips.
hes right about the filler cap if your getting oil mug "water oil mix looks like mucus" around the oil cap,pcv valve or beather its a shore sign that coolants is evaporating in the oil
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Old 05-29-2009, 06:13 AM   #17
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there are two different conditions you guys are talking about. one is a small buildup of waxy looking stuff on cap which does tend to be condensation from small trips and the other is mucousy looking stuff that tends to be from a small coolant leak into oil. you're both right, move on.
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Old 05-29-2009, 09:45 PM   #18
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Ya know, I posted this on several other boards but not here yet.

I used to have an old 318 cid Plymouth Duster. Always ran hot.

One day I noticed two freeze plugs weeping & they had rusted through.

I got a replacement set, & yanked the motor. I used a slide hammer to pull them all out,
& when I had most of them out my neighbor walked up. He said "Be sure to get all the machining chips out of there, while you have it opened!

He said a coat hanger & a garden hose would make it easier.

I was like, OK I see it but how did it get there??

Apparently a vast number of Detroit engines have left over metal shavings in the water jacket.

I got enough crap out of there to easily fill a deep cereal bowl. Looked like rusty steel wool, only heavier gauge.

I put the new freeze plugs in & it ran cool for the next five years, until I broke the front frame rails just behind the "K" frame. Apparently 1968 Dodge Chargers are built much better for "Duke's of Hazzard" style jumping!
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Old 05-29-2009, 10:04 PM   #19
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Apparently a vast number of Detroit engines have left over metal shavings in the water jacket.
i think thats just the cast iron rusting. blocks are sand cast.
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Old 05-30-2009, 06:48 AM   #20
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i think thats just the cast iron rusting. blocks are sand cast.
Sure they are, but they don't come out of the sand with perfectly true bores, decks, & crankshaft mounts ETC.

This is where the machining must take place. The mill shavings somehow end up in the water jacket occasionally. Not just a few of them either!
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Old 05-30-2009, 07:02 AM   #21
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Sure they are, but they don't come out of the sand with perfectly true bores, decks, & crankshaft mounts ETC.

This is where the machining must take place. The mill shavings somehow end up in the water jacket occasionally. Not just a few of them either!
sure i can see some shavings making it into the waterjacket from decking the block, boring cylinders, line boring block and all but i dont believe all the rust you got out was just shavings.
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Old 05-30-2009, 07:12 AM   #22
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sure i can see some shavings making it into the waterjacket from decking the block, boring cylinders, line boring block and all but i dont believe all the rust you got out was just shavings.
No it was as if the shavings acted as a coolant filter, collecting every bit of crap that came through there over the years. Then they too were rusted as well. Almost totally blocking the passages by the time I discovered them.

Now I don't go tearing the freeze plugs out of every motor I've owned since.
In fact, I haven't done that to any motors since.

But if I had a motor that always ran hot, even after making sure the coolant was topped off, & the thermostat was new I'd be checking the water jacket next.

Even if the whole exercise only resulted in new freeze plugs, at least I'd know for sure. Having a new set of freeze plugs, isn't a bad thing either.

They don't cost much, & aren't too difficult to install. Getting the old ones out, can be somewhat challenging though. It is possible to tap one edge in with a small chisel & hammer. Then pull it out sideways, with a small pair of long nosed Vise-grips.
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Old 05-30-2009, 07:26 AM   #23
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They don't cost much, & aren't too difficult to install. Getting the old ones out, can be somewhat challenging though. It is possible to tap one edge in with a small chisel & hammer. Then pull it out sideways, with a small pair of long nosed Vise-grips.
Not to brag but vw's (what i work on) rarely ever need full rebuilds so i dont know what their official procedure for freeze plug removal is but years ago i installed a block heater through one of the freeze plugs and removal was just like you described.

One car in our line gets tons of rust in the block and ends up plugging the heater core and rad. If you care to know pm me and ill tell you but i wont post the model here.
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Old 05-30-2009, 07:44 AM   #24
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N
One car in our line gets tons of rust in the block and ends up plugging the heater core and rad. If you care to know pm me and ill tell you but i wont post the model here.
When you say "In our line" are you talking personal vehicles, or are you in the automotive business?

I ask this, wondering if you own a Pinto, or a pacer.

As for newer vehicles, I imagine there are still some days in a typical Detroit machinist's life that aren't as good as other days.
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Old 05-30-2009, 10:30 PM   #25
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hey whats up guys ? so i did what yo u guys told me removed the water pump and but i also added a new thermostat the other one was thrashed.Bolted everything up then added water in the radiator and i put water in the soda bottle without the cap.everything worked fine didnt over heat.But once i put the cap back on i noticed something my rad has a tiny hole or its cracked on the top,and its shooting out all the antifreeze or water it has inside ,iam guessing its from the pressure that forms when you put the cap on? iam guessing i need a new rad? what should be replaced you think i found my problem guys?
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Old 05-30-2009, 10:41 PM   #26
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anyone knows where can i get some decent radiators?
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Old 05-30-2009, 11:27 PM   #27
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anyone knows where can i get some decent radiators?
1800 radiator thay seem to have the best prices and thay all have a lifetime guarantee
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Old 05-31-2009, 04:39 AM   #28
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online is definitely best prices.

from here sounds like problem is solved. just curious though did the rad not leave stains all over? I mean its better that you replaced water pump and thermostat and now the rad will make you cooling system almost 100% but i would have looked for the cause for the coolant loss first before replacing other parts. ohwell, good to see your jeep will be back on the road soon.
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Old 05-31-2009, 04:42 AM   #29
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When you say "In our line" are you talking personal vehicles, or are you in the automotive business?
Yeah, i work on vw's for a living
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Old 05-31-2009, 05:34 AM   #30
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I noticed something my rad has a tiny hole or its cracked on the top,and its shooting out all the antifreeze or water it has inside ,iam guessing its from the pressure that forms when you put the cap on? iam guessing i need a new rad?
First you should determine the exact point of this leak. Is it the rad neck or the cap. Not sure about your year, buy my 1990 has a cap that slopes slightly forward. This may be the way it was designed, or someone my have bent it by leaving a tool on it while dropping the hood.

I told you that becuase if your rad neck is cracked, it's the only other way I can think of except ice, that would crack it.

If it was ice, (IE: too much water in coolant & minus 32 degrees F.) It may have hurt the block too. Hard to tell at this point, but it may become evident at a later time. If it runs cool with a new rad, & no wax under oil fill cap then it's prolly OK.
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Yeah, i work on vw's for a living
You drive an AMC Pacer, don't you???

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