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Old 02-27-2012, 09:16 PM   #1
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yj rear leafs to the front

Has anyone installed rear leafs from a yj (5 leaf spring) on the front. My fronts only have 4 leafs. I am installing a procomp 3" helper spring to all 4 corners. The fronts and rears seem to be almost identical in length. I have a 355 SBC swap and winch on the front contributing to the flat springs. By the way, this is a SOA set up. Any thoughts?

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Old 02-27-2012, 09:20 PM   #2
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I have access to another set of YJ leafs.

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Old 02-27-2012, 09:39 PM   #3
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I thought the front and rear were the same.
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Old 02-27-2012, 09:45 PM   #4
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My YJ has 4 leafs in the front and 5 leafs in the rear. Might be that the previous owner switched something, but didn't seem the type.
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Old 02-27-2012, 09:47 PM   #5
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I'll go look at mine real quick
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Old 02-27-2012, 09:50 PM   #6
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I have 4 in the front and rear they are old trailmasters
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Old 02-27-2012, 09:56 PM   #7
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Here's a pic of the 4 leaf spring on the front. Since this pic, I have removed the trac bar and the big hairy mount off of the diff.
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Old 02-27-2012, 09:58 PM   #8
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These seem to be stock
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Old 02-28-2012, 01:21 AM   #9
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I installed new springs on my yj they have 5 in rear and 4 up front. The extra spring in the rear is to help with the added weight when you load the jeep up with things are have a hadtop. A 60 lb. winch up front is alot lighter then a 300 to 400 lb hard top. But you said they flatten out. I would just replace the springs with a new set. Springs get weak after abuse and time
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Old 02-28-2012, 01:34 AM   #10
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they are the same exact length, if you look them up by part number they will be different because of the leaf count.. the front have different spring rates than the rears because they have an engine to support.. some yjs came with different setups, i believe they had 6 leaf rears for jeeps that came factory with a hard top, but i could be wrong..

Also, curious why you're going with helper springs, they are going to stiffen up your ride a considerable amount.. especially if its an add-a-leaf that provides 3 inches of lift.. yikes..
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Old 02-28-2012, 07:20 AM   #11
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Thanks for the input. I rode in a Jeep yj that had a 6" lift and it rides better than mine. When a spring is flat or almost backwards then there is no "spring" to it so it is very stiff ride now. I have used add a leafs in the past and they rarely add what they claim. I was trying to overcome the weight of the of a v8 also. So is the 4 leaf front stouter than the 5 leaf rear because of the spring rate?
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Old 02-28-2012, 10:23 AM   #12
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actually stock springs are great for flex.. you should look into doing wagoneer springs!
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Old 02-28-2012, 04:13 PM   #13
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my jeep came factory with the hardtop and i have 5 leaf rears but i was looking at some aftermarket 2" lift springs and they are the same part number, front and rear. you can hd with 5 leaves or normal with 4 leaves.
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Old 02-28-2012, 04:13 PM   #14
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Part Number: R/ERE1430

  • 1987-95 YJ Wrangler
  • 2.5” standard lift spring
  • 5 leafs
  • Fits front or rear
  • Leaf springs are sold individually
  • Bushings are not included
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Old 02-28-2012, 04:19 PM   #15
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A V8 doesnt weigh much more than a 4.0 and in alot of cases....less. A flat or backwards arched spring doesnt mean its going to ride rough. In fact, most of your arched ones will ride rougher.
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Old 02-28-2012, 04:24 PM   #16
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A V8 doesnt weigh much more than a 4.0 and in alot of cases....less. A flat or backwards arched spring doesnt mean its going to ride rough. In fact, most of your arched ones will ride rougher.
i was going to mention that, the i6 is a pretty heavy motor for a 6 cyl, and i'd imagine a small block chevy is going to weigh in less or damn near close to it.

also arent stock yj leafs pretty flat to begin with? and i agree, more arch will usually mean higher iron content to stay arched meaning rougher ride.. i cant imagine a 3" add-a-leaf from pro comp being soft at all
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Old 02-28-2012, 04:28 PM   #17
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Yeap, a 4.0 weighs in at about 515 and my SBF with aluminum heads should be around 490. Stock leafs are very flat with minimal arch.
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Old 02-28-2012, 04:47 PM   #18
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I am running 5 leaf front and rear using Old Man Emu leafs. I did this when adding a lift kit. They will work but the ride will be stiffer trust me. I did this to compensate the weight added by winch, custom bumper, etc. The Jeep sits level but the ride is very firm.
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Old 02-28-2012, 05:40 PM   #19
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Yeap, a 4.0 weighs in at about 515 and my SBF with aluminum heads should be around 490. Stock leafs are very flat with minimal arch.
You got the right small block there
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Old 02-28-2012, 06:03 PM   #20
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Flat springs are better both on and off the road! I have 2 sets of xj springs for when I go soa and with them flat I will still have about a 6" lift! I will cut fenders if need be before I go an higher in lift! And I will be running 38.5 x 11.50 boggers on 5.38 geared full size hp44/ff60 combo
running 34" ltbs with me current 4.10 geared hp30/8.8 setup
I have a 3.5" sua lift at moment and they are arched and RUFF both on and off road! and just checked and both front rear have 5 leaves.
I believe they are re springs ( came with jeep)
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Old 02-28-2012, 06:16 PM   #21
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spunebil: why not a full float sterling 10.25? rear 60's are crap
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Old 02-29-2012, 08:38 AM   #22
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X2 and a bogger of any size will turn a 44 front into toothpicks
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Old 02-29-2012, 11:10 AM   #23
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Ford HP Kingpin D60 up front and 10.25 rear ftw
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Old 02-29-2012, 04:16 PM   #24
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Attachment 100537
Here's a pic of the 4 leaf spring on the front. Since this pic, I have removed the trac bar and the big hairy mount off of the diff.
Your diff is on the wrong side... wtf man...
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Old 02-29-2012, 04:17 PM   #25
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eeeeek chevy side diff lol
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Old 02-29-2012, 07:44 PM   #26
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spunebil: why not a full float sterling 10.25? rear 60's are crap
First cuz I already have it and will be replacing the old 16 splines with new ( chrome moly) 30 splines, and a 30 spline ff is going to live longer than a 30 spline semi-float and even longer than a C clip axle like I have now (8.8 with welded tubes)

Second is that it has better ground clearance even without shaveing it

Besides I doubt me ole 151cid/2.5l is going to thrash axle with a 385x11.50 bogger ( grooved)

But I will try!
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Old 02-29-2012, 07:52 PM   #27
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spunebil: why not a full float sterling 10.25? rear 60's are crap
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X2 and a bogger of any size will turn a 44 front into toothpicks
I am planning on 30 spline chrome molly shafts and 760 joints. It has 1/2" axle tubes and 3/4 ton 8 lug knuckles

Even with the 5.38 gears and 38.5x11.50 boggers, I will be hard pressed to damage them with me little 4 lunger!


And if I swap in bigger pony, I will upgrsde front to 33 splines and rear to 35 splines
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Old 02-29-2012, 08:03 PM   #28
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Your diff is on the wrong side... wtf man...
Chevy 3/4 ton 10 bolt corporate
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Old 02-29-2012, 08:38 PM   #29
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I am planning on 30 spline chrome molly shafts and 760 joints. It has 1/2" axle tubes and 3/4 ton 8 lug knuckles

Even with the 5.38 gears and 38.5x11.50 boggers, I will be hard pressed to damage them with me little 4 lunger!


And if I swap in bigger pony, I will upgrsde front to 33 splines and rear to 35 splines
The only thing that worrys me is that the pinion on a 5.38 is uber tiny even in a 60, I can only imagine what it is on the front end
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Old 03-01-2012, 05:09 AM   #30
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If I can break a ff d60 or even chrome moly hp 44 with a little 151 cid pony, just think of the BRAGGING Rights,!

What is size of pinion for a 5.38 in a d 60?
and for a d 44 ?
Now, what is size of a 4.10 pinion in a d 30 and 8.8 ?

That is what is needed to compare

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