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Old 03-03-2009, 12:48 PM
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YJ Stalling Problem

Hello everyone,

Quite new to the forum and have been reading some very interesting things about the carb problems people are having. I just bought a 1990 Wrangler with the 4.2. I have a similar problem but am going to show my ignorance here....

I bought it a month ago because I've always wanted a jeep. The seller said it needed a new intake manifold gasket and that's why it wanted to stall at each stop light. I took it to a shop and had the gasket replaced.

Still wants to stall. Friend who is mechanically inclined said it may be the EGR valve. So we removed it and cleaned it so it definitely moved smoothly compared to the short stroke it had when we took it off.

Still wants to stall. So a mechanic friend of mine said it's the carb because fuel was just dripping out of the pins. So he rebuilt the carb for me....I was with him when we took it completely apart and cleaned it thoroughly before putting all new gaskets e.t.c. in it (actually bought a rebuild kit).

It's still doing the exact same thing! Here's when it stalls. When ever there is forward inertia on the motor...so coming to stop quickly, slowing down quickly to take a corner, or even stopped on a downward sloping hill. If I sit on an upwards sloping hill, it runs fine (actually idles really high because we have the idle turned up)....but when the fuel? is being pushed forwards from slowing down quickly, or sitting on a downward slope, I have to do the 3 pedal shuffle.

Do I need a new carb? Could it be the fuel pump or filter? I am NOT a mechanic, but would love for my jeep to be driveable.

Cheers, and thanks in advance for any advice / help you can offer.

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Old 03-03-2009, 01:05 PM   #2
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I had that on a cycle a carb that would never
stay tuned

A few people on here have had 4.2carb probs
sure they will chime in

I do remember they were getting rebuilt carbs off ebay
from a guy in Colorado

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Old 03-03-2009, 04:50 PM   #3
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I had problems like you. I went on ebay and bought a motorcraft carb kit from a guy on ebay. It runs perfect now.
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Old 03-04-2009, 11:42 AM
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Thanks guys. I guess I assumed that since we just rebuilt the carb, that wouldn't be the problem. I've spent so much already trying to get it to run right, I'm nervous to spend another $275 for a new carb, only to find I still have the same problem. Thanks again for the opinions and help.
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Old 03-04-2009, 11:55 AM   #5
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try looking at your emission control system. the vacuum canister may be the culprit. if it is not playing right it can really mess things up.
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Old 03-04-2009, 05:47 PM   #6
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vacuum is key on carbs. You should inspect/replace all vacuum lines first as that will be the cheapest.
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Old 03-05-2009, 01:19 PM   #7
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start small. change your fuel filter if you haven't yet. who knows how much gunk is in there
95 4cyl
no swaybar
bed liner inside
soon: 2.5 lift shackels 32s
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Old 03-07-2009, 11:54 PM   #8
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isnt there something like a "nutterbypass" or something called that in which you bypass the computer of the later model carb? I read it somewhere and i may be completely off but am pretty sure that helps that condition. I also read where there is a condition that causes the "squirters" to drip causing problems as well. I actually had some problems with mine and found it to be my fuel pressure was too high ( i had just installed an aftermarket fuel pump). so i bought a regulator and set it to i believe 6psi and it runs great now. the carter carb is a pain in the butt to get dialed in but once you get it it runs good. I have one on a transplanted 4.0 out of a cherokee.

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Old 04-06-2009, 03:38 PM
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Thanks for all your suggestions. I bit the bullet and bought the motorcraft carb off ebay.... it runs like a new machine now. Amazing what a difference it makes. Now I can start focusing on the other 'little' things <grin>

FYI, the carb came with instructions (and pictures) which made it very simple to install (I am NOT a mechanic). Plus I went from 12 - 13 miles per gallon to at least 17 mpg, if not more... kudo's to the ebay seller on a great product.

Thanks again for all your help and suggestions.
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Old 04-07-2009, 03:00 PM   #10
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When it's time for a rebuild, the MC2100 is real easy. It's the only carb I ever rebuilt.
Nice thing about that is I now know how to work on the carb, & could rebuild it on the side of the trail should the need arise.

The "Nutter Bypass", & the "Team Rush Upgrade" will compliment that carb nicely.

Just make friends with your inspection mechanic.

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