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Old 12-29-2012, 02:49 PM   #1
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YJ still overheating

Had overheating problems last time I drive to LAX. Around town it was fine but once I got some speed under the wheels the temp. Really jumped up damn thing steamed me out last time.

Replaced the water pump and now I'm having the same trouble. Got up to highway speeds and it wants to overheat.

The hose running from the radiator to the tstat housing us not hard at all. Should I pull it and replace it? What else could be causing this?

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Old 12-29-2012, 02:53 PM   #2
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Did you change the thermostat when you changed the water pump? I thought I'd heard that there were a couple of options with the water pump on certain YJ's and that the thing to watch is some actually run reversed. What are you running for coolant? Is it a mixture?

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Old 12-29-2012, 03:15 PM   #3
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Yeah 50/50
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Old 12-29-2012, 03:16 PM   #4
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Did you change the thermostat when you changed the water pump? I thought I'd heard that there were a couple of options with the water pump on certain YJ's and that the thing to watch is some actually run reversed. What are you running for coolant? Is it a mixture?
What do you mean run reverse?

No i have not changed the tstat
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Old 12-29-2012, 03:56 PM   #5
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It just did something REALLY weird ill post up when I get back to base
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Old 12-29-2012, 04:38 PM   #6
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put in a 160 t stat and some royal purple liquid ice
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Old 12-29-2012, 04:55 PM   #7
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don't put in 160

It won't do any good ot put in a 160. If it is overheating with 195, it iwll overheat with a 160 and probably without any.

If the top radiator hose isn't getting hard, then you might have a bad radiator cap, or a leak. The other possibility would be a restriction, probably in the heater core.

Another possibility would be not to have the shroud on, allowing air to bypass the radiator.

Check the radiator to make sure the fins aren't plugged.

When they went to the serpentine belt, that reversed the flow of the water pump. Check to be sure you have the correct one.

Just a few checks.

Good Luck
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Old 12-29-2012, 05:10 PM   #8
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Also, with motor running and rad cap off, check to see if you have bubbles or oil in your rad fluid which could be as a result of a blown head gasket.
I wouldn't recommend a 160* tstat- sludge buildup. But do replace your tstat- it could be stuck closed.
Check lower rad hose and see if it collapses at high revs.
Check you bought the correct water pump and it rotates the correct way for your YJ- the blades spin different directions depending on car.
Have your collant system flushed cleaned and new 50/50 fluid.
Check non Radiator stuff....are E brakes on? Wheel bearings good?
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Old 12-29-2012, 05:19 PM   #9
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Oh, and make sure your serpentine belt isn't too loose- a slipping belt causes less water pump spin and less coolant to flow
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Old 12-29-2012, 08:16 PM   #10
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Flushing the system and putting a new tstat in tomorrow.

On the highway and free way at higher speeds it overheats. As soon as I got back in town and sat at a light and went down 1 road at 40mph the temp dropped back to 210

What the hell is going on?
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Old 12-30-2012, 10:07 AM   #11
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The first thing to do is to put in a 195 thermostat and see if that does it. The top hose not having any pressure most probably indicates the thermostat isn't opening. Your radiator can also be clogged which will contribute to the problem. A water pump is usually fine unless there is coolant coming through the weep hole, which means that the bearings are worn. It can't hurt that you replaced it. When there is an overheat situation the thermostat is usually the first thing that causes it.
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Old 12-30-2012, 11:11 AM   #12
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Common sense is telling me at higher speeds and sustained rpm the pressure is building and the tstat isn't opening
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Old 12-30-2012, 11:15 AM   #13
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Replacing it here in a couple of hours
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Old 12-30-2012, 05:31 PM   #14
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System has been flushed and new tstat is in. Same thing is happening.

Only think that I can think about is a

clogged radiator that's bad
Blown head gasket
Cracked head
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Old 12-30-2012, 05:43 PM   #15
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Mine ended up being a bad radiator... when I removed it and looked in the lower rad hose tube I could see tremendous calcium build up.

Could be those other things; but I think you would see some other issues along with it.
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Old 12-30-2012, 05:44 PM   #16
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I'm getting a radiator for 100 at pep boys. Hopefully this is it
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Old 12-30-2012, 05:47 PM   #17
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Yeah, mine would start to over heat on the hwy, without a tstat; then when you got to a stop sign it would start going down.
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Old 12-30-2012, 05:51 PM   #18
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Yeah, mine would start to over heat on the hwy, without a tstat; then when you got to a stop sign it would start going down.
Say that again?
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Old 12-30-2012, 05:57 PM   #19
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If nothing in the cooling system is the culprit, give your cat converter and exhaust system a check. Does it act like it doesn't have much power at highway speeds?
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Old 12-30-2012, 05:57 PM   #20
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I had this happen to me and went through what you are doing only to find out that that wasn't causing the heat at higher rpm's. Mine was the clutch fan was not working and causing overheating on the highway and then cooling down when I slowed down or stopped for traffic lights. Hope you find it.
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Old 12-30-2012, 06:00 PM   #21
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If I was driving around town, it would act normal. After some time, 30 miles say, it would keep creeping up till it was near the red line. Take the next exit and stop at the sign it would start cooling down and eventually (because no tstat) it would be well below the tstat temp; just sitting there idling. Really screwed with my head for a while and did just like you are doing. Replaced the tstat, the heater core, flushed and cleaned the system, new antifreeze, new water pump, and it still over heated on the hwy. Replaced the radiator, and problem is gone; and while looking at the bottom hose connection I could see the bottoms of the core and they were packed with deposits.
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Old 12-30-2012, 06:01 PM   #22
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fan clutch? Just another something to check...
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Old 12-30-2012, 06:02 PM   #23
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I had this happen to me and went through what you are doing only to find out that that wasn't causing the heat at higher rpm's. Mine was the clutch fan was not working and causing overheating on the highway and then cooling down when I slowed down or stopped for traffic lights. Hope you find it.
Ive seen that before too; but usually the other way around. Hwy is great, but slow stoplight runs would over heat.

Usually your fan is useless above 40 mph anyway.
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Old 12-30-2012, 06:38 PM   #24
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If nothing in the cooling system is the culprit, give your cat converter and exhaust system a check. Does it act like it doesn't have much power at highway speeds?

Just took out the cat out yesterday and I'm running a straight pipe to the magnaflow muffler. Car honestly runs better. But on the highway it's still hard to get over 55mph.

Engine also has 300k miles on it.
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Old 12-30-2012, 06:39 PM   #25
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fan clutch? Just another something to check...
Looked at that too with the mechanic today. It's good to go
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Old 12-30-2012, 07:15 PM   #26
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Just took out the cat out yesterday and I'm running a straight pipe to the magnaflow muffler. Car honestly runs better. But on the highway it's still hard to get over 55mph.

Engine also has 300k miles on it.
well, depending on your gear ratio and tires, 300k could be the reason you can hardly go 55.
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Old 12-30-2012, 07:43 PM   #27
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As soon as I find a 8.8. 4.56 are going in it and I'm doing the install
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Old 12-30-2012, 07:45 PM   #28
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well, depending on your gear ratio and tires, 300k could be the reason you can hardly go 55.

I know this is not ideal but can I put a 8.8 in with 4.56's and not regear the front till I find a 44? And just run without a front d/s?
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Old 12-30-2012, 07:52 PM   #29
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I know this is not ideal but can I put a 8.8 in with 4.56's and not regear the front till I find a 44? And just run without a front d/s?
Yes, just dont EVER put it in 4x.

You can leave the driveshaft in, as long as you havent locked the front in.
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Old 12-30-2012, 08:26 PM   #30
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Nice! I wonder hoe much more power I'd have by re gearing

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