Fuel & Temp gauges not working, fuel gauge pegs right, sometimes temp gauge pegs right. Usually after I hit a bump. With temp gauge sender unhooked, fuel gauge pegs right, but needle moves slower.
I have disconnected all grounds I could find, wire brushed ground point & wire ends, reconnected & painted over them. When I checked the 5 terminals on the gauges w/ a test light, all 5 had a steady bright light, Here’s the results of my testing w. a multimeter:
(Where I was told to check the terminal to ground, I used a good known ground @ the cigarette lighter)
Grd to S 71 ohms, I had .126
Grd to I 51 .107
Grd to A 51 .109
S to A 21 .024
S to I 21 .021
I to A 0 .000
Temp sender, engine cold: has a very hard time getting a reading @ sender, reversed test light clamp to + battery terminal & grounded to sender case. Good ground.
Wire to sender .545 ohms 11.68 volts
Gauge to sender .539 ohms
Gauge to grd .298 ohms
Checked wire from gauge to sender .001 ohms
When checking both ends of the temp gauge, meter would start to register, then go to OL, (no resistance). Several attempts were required to get steady readings. I cleaned all connections w/ electrical contact cleaner, but no difference.
Grd .008 ohms
10 volts going to ground
Gauge to wire, ( at the gauge), .906 ohms
With the sender disconnected @ the fuel gauge, the gauge still pegs left.
My question is can these be made to work again or do I need to replace the gauges, (in which case I’ll replace the entire speedometer). Aftermarket gauges are a last resort as I want to keep her original, she’s tagged antique.
Thanks for any help you can render