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Old 07-15-2014, 12:05 PM   #1
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Scout 44s into cj7

I'm installing scout dana 44s in my cj7 and I know that the front 44 has to be narrowed to work or put the hangers on the outside of the frame but for 150$ I'd rather just narrow it. My only question is that I'm pretty sure the drivers side (long tube) has to be narrowed 3 inches but I'm not sure and can't find anything on it does anyone know the correct measurement?

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Old 07-16-2014, 04:06 PM   #2
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I would just outboard the springs if I were going to do another one. It's a lot less hassle. The problem with Scout 44's is the front knuckles have to be rotated 6-8 degrees as they came factory with 0 degree knuckles. If you don't do this you will be in for a nightmare in getting your driveline angles to work and a lot of undesirable steering issues. Good luck and that's just my two cents.

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Old 07-16-2014, 10:03 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by gcaughron View Post
I would just outboard the springs if I were going to do another one. It's a lot less hassle. The problem with Scout 44's is the front knuckles have to be rotated 6-8 degrees as they came factory with 0 degree knuckles. If you don't do this you will be in for a nightmare in getting your driveline angles to work and a lot of undesirable steering issues. Good luck and that's just my two cents.
This is true but if he has a front axle from a 79 or 80 Scout it will have come from the factory with 3° of camber. You can also use off center ball joints to pick up a few more °'s. If your not Savvy with your fab skills I would pick up a front d44 from a 79 and older FSJ Wagoneer. They can be had at the you pull lots all day long for $100 to $150. Then just use the knuckles, spindles, brakes and hubs from the Scout axle to keep It a 5 on 5.5 lug.
Check out Dave's Customs Fab for the outboard spring mounts.
I'd get spring purches from Ruff Stuff with the 3 holes in them...it will allow you to move the axle forward an inch..I'd do it to the back also..a little extra wheelbase will make it ride nice.
Hope this helps bud.
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Old 07-16-2014, 11:52 PM   #4
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Thanks for the help. I already have the axels ready to go to the machine shop they do already have the 3 degrees and the are getting rotated another 3 I just can remember how much the long tube has to be cut
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Old 07-18-2014, 07:37 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by nateeendavie View Post
Thanks for the help. I already have the axels ready to go to the machine shop they do already have the 3 degrees and the are getting rotated another 3 I just can remember how much the long tube has to be cut
Ok...if your going to go through the trouble of cutting and turning the C's then (if it were me) I'd set the caster at 8°. I've found that that is the magic number and really helps to eliminate all possibilities of death wobble. ..and are you going to do a spring over.?
So if your going to narrow the front axle what are you planning to do with the rear Scout axle..?
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Old 07-18-2014, 07:52 PM   #6
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It is not going to be sprung over and the rear is staying the same the rear purch just has to be moved
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Old 07-18-2014, 07:57 PM   #7
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10-4. ..I know that the rear Scout axle is a few inches narrower then the front so why not just cut it to the same width as the rear?

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