It was. It's a Harbor Freight 94564 1720-lb. capacity 4x8 frame modified to be approximatley 40" x 6' to fit the tub. In its stock form it's a tilt frame, you can angle the bed so the rear of it touches the ground. However in the process of making this one smaller, some of the extra pieces have been used to make a backbone down the center starting at the coupler, which makes the trailer a lot stronger. In the process, the tilt feature was eliminated.
I really like the jeep hard top that you have on your black TJ. I was wondering if you might tell me a little about it. Thanks,
Thanks, I'm glad you like it.
I never liked the design of the factory hardtop, so I designed this one with the styling and features I wanted, made some molds, and molded it in fiberglass. It's modular, so the hard sides can be removed and swapped for roll-up side curtains in the summer, it's got a rear "barn door" for easy access to the back, and it's strong enough to support a roof-top tent...
Here's a shot of a preproduction military tub kit. It's sitting on a resized Harbor Freight frame, but this one's got a mod Compact Camping/Dinoot is testing - instead of the noisy and stiff HF "slipper" springs, this one's got a new bolt-on spring hanger with longer, more compliant shackle springs. Should be a really nice upgrade to the HF frames. Needs some bigger tires and some fenders though...
The company says:
Things are progressing nicely on getting the M-Series tubs ready. Having lots of fun working out the details and pulling together documentation. The molds are getting a final trim and polish. When that’s completed, we just need to pull a tub kit and confirm the parts fits together as expected.
Plan to start taking orders for the solid front & rear end panel version M-series Dinoots in two weeks. Pricing will be announced for the solid front & rear panel version in the next few days.
The Retro Wrangler pickup with the military trailer:
The LJ Safari Cab set up for the trail with soft sides, side mount jerry cans and roof rack basket carrying an extra spare and the high lift; the military trailer is carrying the roof-top tent, and some bicycles in a rack in the rear receiver:
The Retro Wrangler with the Jeep-tub trailer:
The LJ Safari Cab with the hard sides installed, towing the Jeep-tub trailer wearing a Safari-Cab based camper prototype.
I'll probably sell the military trailer before too long, I'm running out of space to keep all this stuff and work on new projects.
Would this be a total kit that compact camping with offer? Frame, new springs, tub, everything?
The basic kit is the fiberglass tub only. Compact Camping also offers a welded frame, and can also provide the other parts necessary like springs, although many kit buyers decide to either build their trailer on a Harbor Freight frame or build their own frame - it's up to the builder. Compact Camping will also provide a ready-to-roll trailer built to your specs, they'll do pretty much anything from sell the kit parts up to a complete package.
Both of the ones below are built on Harbor Freight frames. The black one has the original Harbor Freight 12" wheels/tires, but the Harbor Freight axles are the correct bolt pattern (5-on-4.5) to accept Jeep wheels and the plan for the black one is to get Jeep wheels when it gets its fenders.
The Harbor Freight frame under this one has been painted olive drab to match:
Saturday Compact Camping sent out this message in their email newsletter:
We are about two weeks away from being ready to take orders for the solid front & rear end panel version M-series Dinoots!
The molds are getting a final trim and polish, then just need to confirm everything fits together as expected. These will make great replacement tubs for M416 projects and ground up new trailer builds.
The solid front & rear panel version M-series Dinoot tub kits will be $785.
They will be available in black paint-prep ready gelcoat. It can be used as-is, although scratches somewhat easily.
We are working on one detail; fenders. There are a few off-the-shelf that work well with tires up to 30” tall. For taller, wider tires, we have a company that does custom fenders. Although more expensive; fenders can be custom sized for a well portioned look on any tire size and suspension configuration.
Initially we will have first pass Building One documents / guides in place. We will refine / update based on build feedback. The Dinoot web-site will be getting updated shortly with full M-series information.
Expect to have the tailgate version available late in November. Remember to follow us on Facebook. I regularly post pictures and information. Also join in on the fun over at our Tventuring forum.
BTW that price is less than the current Dinoot Compact Jeep-tub kit price, so it's a great deal.
Are these trailers wide enough to hold a decent sized stock four wheeler?
They've got a standard Jeep-sized tailgate, so if you can drive your four through that, you're good to go. The photo below is one of the fiberglass Jeep-tub trailer kits, not the military kit, but the tailgate opening is the same width as the tailgate opening on the military trailer kit:
The military tub is just over 40" inside width at the bottom, just like the original military trailers, but if you need a wider tailgate than the standard Jeep tailgate and more room inside, here's a thread on some ways to modify the fiberglass Jeep-tub trailer for a 4'-wide tailgate: Maximizing Dinoot cargo and loading space
I honestly don't see a problem putting a 650 pound four wheeler on there. There's probably ways of reinforcing it as well I imagine to spread the weight out a little better. Would be perfect to take a four wheeler to the off road park with for a weekend, pack the trailer with your supplies and you're golden.
I'm just brain storming because these look like awesome trailers. Just trying to think of ways to squeeze every possible use out of them.
I woke up this morning with good intentions, then idiots happened
"Overhead" racks for trailers seem to be pretty popular - whether it's to carry kayaks or canoes, extra cargo or maybe a roof-top syle tent, an overhead rack can provide access to the storage space inside the trailer while at the same time accomodating large cargo. Here's some few examples on both military style and Jeep-tub trailers:
I've drawn a number of overhear rack concepts for both the Jeep-tub and military style trailers and posted them in this thread, but most of the ones I've drawn before, and the ones pictured above, require some fabrication, and specifically welding, that an average DIY-er might not have access to.
I've been thinking about ways to DIY-build an overhear rack for a trailer that wouldn't require welding or any advanced fabrication skills or techniques. So here is one...
Tent canopies like the ones you can rent for backyard for parties or you might see set up as outdoor Jeep show vendor booths are mostly based on standard fittings that accept common sizes of inexpensive tubing, here's a sample set:
They're commonly available to work with 1" EMT (electrical conduit, 1 3/8" outside diamater), and several larger sizes of chain-link fence tubing, both of which are inexpensive and strong. It would be easy and economical to build an overhead rack using these fittings and 1" EMT (or larger tubing if your strength needs dictated). Here's an example:
I've done the fittings in yellow; this one uses 4 "flat" corners, 4 tees, and four feet, and everything's connected with 1" EMT (in gray).
The rack would be secured to the trailer frame using angle brackets bolted to the frame that the feet could bolt to. Depending on the feet used and the size of the angle brackets, the base of the feet might need to be trimmed a bit because as designed, they're large enough to sit on the ground without sinking in; for this application the size of the base could be smaller.
The fittings come with an eye bolt which gets screwed against the tube that's inserted into the fitting, which is fine for a static tent, but for a rack that'll be subjected to the vibrations of the road or trail, a more positive lock would be a good idea, so a jam nut setup could be used:
You could get more creative using these canopy parts... here's a tarp cover frame for a trailer - the difference between this one and the rack I posted earlier is that the corners are 120-degree rise corners, and the cross-tubes have an arch bent in them to crown the roof so water can run off.
Using a tarp, a grommet kit and some zip-ties, a decent cover could be make up pretty quickly:
You posted a mini rack using an old bed frame. Can you post a link to that?
Here are some photos of it. It's made as you said from the metal of an old bed frame; it bolts to the fiberglass cover. I put blind nuts in the cover so it's easy to bolt the rack in place. I also welded nuts in the rack to make it easy to bolt the roof-top tent or the rack basket in place.
Here's a few photos taken when I was building it.
The basic rack in place, still in the original bed frame blue.
I also had enough bed frame metal left to make bolt-on extensions, these are handy for carrying 4x8 sheets:
I designed the extensions so that simple clamps could be used to secure 4x8 sheets for transport:
My Harbor Freight based rack basket also bolts on to the rack using the nuts welded into the rack:
And those same nuts are used to secure the tent to the rack:
If these photos don't provide the info you're looking for let me know and I'll try to provide more detail.
The rack comes completely off for the roof top tent right? The tent bolts to the blind nuts..? Where are the nuts welded on? The bottom rack? Top rack?
No, the roof-top tent bolts to the rack. In the photo of the tent on the trailer in my last post, the tent is bolted to the rack, but the skirt on the tent hangs down so you don't see the rack.
Here's a photo of the rack off the trailer, I've circled where I've welded nuts in place. They're on the underside of the cross-rails of the rack, and spaced to line up with the mounting holes in the tent.
There are also four holes in the bottom rails of the rack that are used to secure the rack to the cover. They're at the same spacing as the top rail holes, so they're directly underneath where I've circled the nuts.
And here's a shot of the trailer without the rack in place. The four screws are in place to seal the holes to the blind nuts when the rack isn't bolted in place:
Will the production covers have the reinforced points like yours? The points for a rack
Once I turn the mold masters over to a company, it's up to them to make their production molds and decide how the fiberglass layup should be done and whetever reinforcement is necessary. The company that's doing the trailer kits does a really good job at molding and reinforcing, and they understand that the goal is to be able to support a rack and/or a roof-top tent on the trailer, so I'm sure their kit will be well reinforced for that, although they may do it slightly differently that I've done.
Also, is the frame welded together or bolted together?
That's up to the kit buyer/builder. The kit is designed so that it can be built with a Harbor Freight bolt-together frame, so many people do that, but the company also offers a fully welded frame for people that plan heavy duty or hard core use of their trailer. There are lots of options and lots of ways to build and outfit one of these kits to suit your needs.
Awesome. Thx. I'm picking a HF frame up soon. So excited!
If you're planning to put the military tub kit on top of it, there are detailed plans and step-by-step instructions for modifying the HF frame and at the same time strengthening it with the parts in the HF kit here: Fiberglass M416/M100 Military-style Trailer Tub Kit