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Old 10-11-2013, 08:09 AM   #301
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Weighing in... the trailer as shown in the photo below weighs 282 lbs. The modified Harbor Freight frame weighs 203 lbs, the 5/8" plywood floor is 33 lbs. and fiberglass tub itself is 46 lbs.



Equipped as shown in the next photo, with and 205/75-15 tires on Jeep wheels it's probably around 350 lbs. ready to roll, well within easy towing range for a 4 cyl. vehicle.



Most people will add other features and gear which would raise the weight, like a tongue jack, maybe a cargo rack on the tongue, maybe even larger tires and fenders, so everyone's finished/equipped weight will vary, but starting at 282 lbs. stripped is a really good place to be.

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Old 10-13-2013, 10:57 AM   #302
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The test build trailer with the first parts out of the production molds is now ready for some road testing... fenders have been painted, lights have been installed, front jack/wheel in place...




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Old 10-13-2013, 01:35 PM   #303
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Originally Posted by jscherb View Post
The test build trailer with the first parts out of the production molds is now ready for some road testing... fenders have been painted, lights have been installed, front jack/wheel in place...
That is one nice trailer, thank you for all the updates.

If I wanted to replace the wheels with stock rubicon wheel and tire combo, will there be enough clearance or should I replace the mud terrain tires with regular street tires? I am interested in keeping the same look on all my wheels.

Is there any challenges in painting fiberglass?
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Old 10-13-2013, 03:56 PM   #304
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That is one nice trailer, thank you for all the updates.
Thank you very much.

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If I wanted to replace the wheels with stock rubicon wheel and tire combo, will there be enough clearance or should I replace the mud terrain tires with regular street tires? I am interested in keeping the same look on all my wheels.
The trailer pictured below has TJ Rubicon wheels and 31" tires. From your profile picture I take it you've got a JK, so there's one difference you'll need to deal with - if you use a Harbor Freight frame under this kit, that frame comes with 5-on-4.5 bolt pattern hubs, which match the TJ. The JK has a 5-on-5 bolt pattern, so you'll need adapters to get the JK wheels on the HF axles. Due to the width of the HF axle and the backspacing of both the TJ and the JK Rubicon wheels, you'd need 1.25" spacers anyway to have proper clearance for wheels with that backspacing, so you can just get 5-on-4.5 to 5-on-5 adapters, which will serve as the necessary spacers as well.

You'll also want to get fenders that are wide enough to cover your choice of tires; the fenders on the trailer below are 13" wide and they more than cover the Rubicon wheel/tire combo:



One other consideration... if you plan to run larger tires on your JK and your trailer, say 33's or above, some people think it's a better strategy to upgrade the Harbor Freight 2000-lb. capacity axle to a 3500-lb. axle to deal with that size/weight tire. It doesn't cost much more than a pair of spacers actually, you can get a complete 3500-lb. axle with 5-on-5 bolt circle hubs to match the JK for $127.99 (3500 lb Axles - Trailer Axles, Spring Mounted), and you can get it a little bit wider than the HF axle so you wouldn't need spacers for wheels with that backspacing. Here's a fiberglass Jeep-tub trailer with a Harbor Freight frame, the owner has upgraded the axle to a 3500-lb. axle and he's running 33's. It was a bolt-in replacement for the HF axle, and the same axle could be used under the military trailer:



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Is there any challenges in painting fiberglass?
No special challenges, fiberglass takes automotive paint very well. The trailer done up in a military theme above started out as white fiberglass and was sprayed with a matte olive drab. And here's a white fiberglass tailgate on a Jeep-tub trailer that's been given an automotive base coat/clear coat finish to match the Jeep:



There are no special challenges in painting fiberglass and getting a very high quality finish.
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Old 10-17-2013, 08:14 AM   #305
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The company's pre-production trailer on its maiden voyage...



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Old 10-26-2013, 11:06 PM   #306
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Want a camping trailer and not to spend a lot of money. This looks very good and promising. You have a web site? I will be following.

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Old 10-27-2013, 07:38 AM   #307
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Want a camping trailer and not to spend a lot of money. This looks very good and promising. You have a web site? I will be following.

Mike
Mike,

I just design and build these things as a hobby, I'm not in business to sell them. But I have licensed the designs of both my military trailer and my Jeep-tub trailer kits to a company that's selling the kits. The Jeep-tub trailer kit has been available for over a year now and dozens have been sold and built, and they tell me they'll be ready to take orders for the military kit before the end of next week. Their web site is Jeep Trailer Dinoot Lightweight Fiberglass Tub Kit Dinoot Trailers - Dinoot Trailers Dinoot Trailers.

Jeff

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Old 11-12-2013, 11:04 AM   #308
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Scott Chaney of Compact Camping Concepts just posted this over on the Trailer Adventuring Forum (Fiberglass M416/M100 Military-style Trailer Tub Kit

Quote:
Itís official, the next generation M416 style trailer has arrived. The classic military Jeep trailer has been taken to a whole new level, Fiberglass!

We are now ready to start manufacturing and accepting orders for solid end panel M-Series Dinoot tub kits! The solid end panel version M-Series Dinoot tub kits will be $785 and come in black paint-prep ready gelcoat.

For additional information visit the M-Series Tub Kit page on the Dinoot website. Over the next few days we will be updating the Build Components, Welded Frames and Building One sections with M-Series information.

Be the first of your friends to be towing a new M-Series Dinoot!


Full disclosure: I am not an employee of Compact Camping.
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Old 11-16-2013, 02:05 PM   #309
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Here's a fiberglass tub panel set just out of the molds, this one has a tailgate end on it.



For comparison, here's one with two solid end panels just like the original M416:



Because the tub is modular and the panels bolt together, tubs can be assembled with two solid ends, one tailgate and and one solid, or two tailgate ends.
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Old 11-19-2013, 09:14 AM   #310
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Here's a new product I found at SEMA that I think could be very interesting as a trailer accessory - it's a "bed bag" designed for use in pickup trucks, but it's a perfect size to fit in a military trailer. It's made of heavy-duty polyethylene "tarp material" and it's got a zipper around three sides of the top corner. It's very affordable (M.S.R.P. way under $100), and it folds up very small.

They gave me a sample to test in my trailers. It's small enough that it'll fit in my carry-on bag when folded up, even though when fully open it's 5.5' long, almost 4' wide and over 2' tall.



It's a great fit in an M416/M100 military trailer, here it is in my fiberglass replica:





A few other ways to protect cargo from the elements just for comparison...

A snap-on tonneau cover, about $300:



A fiberglass hinged hard cover:

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Old 12-08-2013, 10:46 AM   #311
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I've posted this link before (Fiberglass M416/M100 Military-style Trailer Tub Kit), those are the step-by-step instructions showing how I modified a Harbor Freight frame to the proper size to fit under my prototype military trailer.

The company that's now producing the tub kits has done a convenient PDF document with their recommended modification plan, check it out: http://dinoot.com/MSer-HF-frame.pdf

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Old 12-30-2013, 04:57 PM   #312
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Here's a new style fender being test fit on a fiberglass military kit build. Scott (the builder of this trailer) says:

Quote:
Here is a style fender similar to the M101 with vertical bottoms that make adding side steps easy. They come a little long and need the bottoms trimmed.
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Old 12-31-2013, 10:38 AM   #313
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Jeff, very nice stuff!

I'm in the middle of bringing back to life a 1947 Bamtam T3C. I have a build post on expeditionportal.com (under the same name).

I built the three axis hitch from your design, very good BTW. Haven't tried it yet, but I'm sure it will be just fine (if my welds hold up )

Question... Any concerns with the "T" portion of the hitch? If any portion is going to have a problem I think it will be that one. I was going to weld the 1" sleeve inside where the 1" bolt contacts the 3/4" "T" portion but ended up not doing that as that area isn't where the stress will be.

Thanks!
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Old 12-31-2013, 11:44 AM   #314
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Jeff, very nice stuff!

I'm in the middle of bringing back to life a 1947 Bamtam T3C. I have a build post on expeditionportal.com (under the same name).

I built the three axis hitch from your design, very good BTW. Haven't tried it yet, but I'm sure it will be just fine (if my welds hold up )

Question... Any concerns with the "T" portion of the hitch? If any portion is going to have a problem I think it will be that one. I was going to weld the 1" sleeve inside where the 1" bolt contacts the 3/4" "T" portion but ended up not doing that as that area isn't where the stress will be.

Thanks!
Glad you like the coupler. The best way to weld that section is first welding the bolt to the top of the "T", then sliding the sleeve over the bolt to the top of the "T" and welding that to the top of the "T" (make sure you notch the sleeve as I showed in the step--by-step photos, that doubles the weld length and strength), and then welding the other end of the sleeve to the bolt.

For those who don't know what we're talking about, here's the thread on the DIY three-axis couple design: Under $50 DIY 3-axis coupler
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Old 01-03-2014, 12:16 AM   #315
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Glad you like the coupler. The best way to weld that section is first welding the bolt to the top of the "T", then sliding the sleeve over the bolt to the top of the "T" and welding that to the top of the "T" (make sure you notch the sleeve as I showed in the step--by-step photos, that doubles the weld length and strength), and then welding the other end of the sleeve to the bolt.

For those who don't know what we're talking about, here's the thread on the DIY three-axis couple design: Under $50 DIY 3-axis coupler
OK, now I'm confused...

I welded the T section to each other and notched it as you show. HOwever, I didn't not weld the notched section to the interior portion of the sleeve, I only welded the T around the notched section all the way around both side of the T along the 1"ID bushing to the 3/4"OD bushing. I thought about welding the 1"ID bushing to the inner portion where it slides onto the 1" bolt, but didn't.

I also welded the 1" sleeve onto the bolt all the way around the bolt.

Is that OK?
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Old 01-03-2014, 06:38 AM   #316
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OK, now I'm confused...

I welded the T section to each other and notched it as you show. HOwever, I didn't not weld the notched section to the interior portion of the sleeve, I only welded the T around the notched section all the way around both side of the T along the 1"ID bushing to the 3/4"OD bushing. I thought about welding the 1"ID bushing to the inner portion where it slides onto the 1" bolt, but didn't.

I also welded the 1" sleeve onto the bolt all the way around the bolt.

Is that OK?
Here's how I do mine:

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Old 01-03-2014, 06:43 AM   #317
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I just got an email newsletter from the company that's selling this trailer kit. They've got one of their prototypes for sale:

Quote:
Letís kick the new year off right with a smokin Dinoot deal.

I have a ready-to-roll solid end M-Series Dinoot that Iím selling for a few bucks more than the parts would cost. I used it for prototyping and shaking out M-Series details. Itís lightly used with a few dings and scratches.

Hereís what it has:

  • Built on Harbor Freight, Haul-Master #94564 bolt-together frame
  • Frame has reinforcing center backbone and top bolt joints have been welded
  • 2Ē ball
  • Flat 4-pin wiring connector
  • Sealed 5/8Ē ACX plywood floor
  • CCC smooth ride spring retrofit kit, lowers GVWR down to 1150 lbs
  • Jeep Cherokee 15x7 steel wheel with 205/15Ē tire (not a lot of tread left)
  • Street legal and tow ready

Cash price is $1475, located in Salem, OR

For photos and addition details see the Fiberglass M416/M100 Military-style Trailer Tub Kit thread starting here.
This is the one they're selling:





I think that's a very good deal.
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Old 01-03-2014, 08:02 PM   #318
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OK, I did everything but the plug welds and the portion where the 1"ID piece mates with the 1" bolt (the interior of the T against the bolt). I used a piece of DOM tubing for the 1"ID T fitting.

So, what do you think? Am I OK without that portion of the bolt being welded?

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Here's how I do mine:

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Old 01-03-2014, 08:14 PM   #319
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OK, I did everything but the plug welds and the portion where the 1"ID piece mates with the 1" bolt (the interior of the T against the bolt). I used a piece of DOM tubing for the 1"ID T fitting.

So, what do you think? Am I OK without that portion of the bolt being welded?
It's easy to add them, just drill 5/16" holes through the sleeve and slightly into the bolt, then weld.
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Old 01-03-2014, 09:10 PM   #320
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It's easy to add them, just drill 5/16" holes through the sleeve and slightly into the bolt, then weld.
That's exactly what I was thinking.

Thanks!

I'm going to build another one with the extra parts I have.
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Old 01-26-2014, 09:05 AM   #321
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Nice!

This is great. Is the kit for sale?
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Old 01-26-2014, 09:58 AM   #322
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This is great. Is the kit for sale?
Yes, the company that's licensed the military trailer kit and the Jeep-tub trailer kit from me has both kits available. They're at Jeep Trailer Dinoot Lightweight Fiberglass Tub Kit Dinoot Trailers - Dinoot Trailers Dinoot Trailers
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Old 03-01-2014, 03:57 PM   #323
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Anyone out there with an original M416 a rusty and/or dented tub that needs replacement? This item was in the Dinoot email newsletter I got today:

Quote:
Would like to contact someone local to Salem, OR with a M416 that needs a new tub. Planning a write up on replacing a trashed M416 tub with a Dinoot M-Series tub.
Sounds like they want to do a showcase install of a fiberglass Dinoot m-series tub on an M416 frame, showing how the Dinoot easily replaces the original dented/rusted tub.
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Old 03-22-2014, 07:24 PM   #324
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All the way back to WWII, tarps have been used to protect cargo in military trailers. The original trailers have a series of hooks welded around the sides for tying down the tarp:



I've got a different idea I plan to try - what if the tarp extended down below the flared-out portion at the top of the tub and was held in place with a drawstring contained inside the lower hem of the tarp? The drawstring would be pulled tight, and since that would be around the narrow part of the tub, the cover would be secured. The tarp would be very simple to put on and remove because you wouldn't have to worry about hooking up the rope(s) to all of the tub tie-down hooks - you'd just throw it on and tighten the drawstring.

Here's a concept sketch:



The yellow dashed line indicates where the drawstring will go. To keep water from pooling on top of the cover, two boat cover bow sockets can be installed on the inside of the tub edge, indicated by the white dashed lines.

I'm going to make a prototype of this concept. I'll use a Harbor Freight camo tarp I picked up for less than $7.00, and some HF 3/8" camo rope for the drawstring (about $5), so it's a very low cost project.

It'll be a week or two before I begin work on this, I've got some work on another project I want to finish up first, but I welcome your comments and suggestions on this idea.
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Old 03-23-2014, 12:23 AM   #325
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jscherb: your ideas are spectacular! Love the tarp idea, similar to one I was working on but much improved from my primitive version.

My original M100 has enough hooks around all sides I can rely on them, but the tarp I built from a remnant is not quite what I need. I've got old style tarp metal inserts at corners & middle, & ran anchor rope thru them....but my tarp is just barely the size of the top without fitting over the sides at all. Somewhat not-quite-satisfactory with such as a load of light wood chips but quite fine with heavier stuff.

Interested in that little tongue mounted gas-can/tool box cozy.....fabricated or repurposed from some other source?

And do you have any comments on decent jerry cans for actual fuel use?
I have heard of some poly styles but never see them around. And the old flexible spouts were pretty much trash when new.
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Old 03-23-2014, 09:36 AM   #326
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jscherb: your ideas are spectacular!
Thank you!

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Interested in that little tongue mounted gas-can/tool box cozy.....fabricated or repurposed from some other source?
It's a Harbor Freight ATV Cargo Rack, just installed a little differently than the instructions call for: 300 lb. ATV Cargo Carrier

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And do you have any comments on decent jerry cans for actual fuel use? I have heard of some poly styles but never see them around. And the old flexible spouts were pretty much trash when new.
I use either original military-issue cans or the Blitz consumer equivalent. Harbor Freight sells some nice NATO-style cans for $40, but unfortunately all cans sold today have the awkward EPA spout. I don't have any suggestions for a better spout (and I'm glad I have original military and Blitz spouts for mine ).
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Old 03-24-2014, 04:36 PM   #327
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JScherb,

You reference a fiberglass top. When looking at the manufacturer site, they show plans for a plywood top, but not fiberglass. Also, do you have any recent recommendations for a roof tent that works well for this footprint?

I assume that if you go with a roof tent, marine plywood is just as good as fiberglass?
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Old 03-24-2014, 06:16 PM   #328
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JScherb,

You reference a fiberglass top. When looking at the manufacturer site, they show plans for a plywood top, but not fiberglass. Also, do you have any recent recommendations for a roof tent that works well for this footprint?

I assume that if you go with a roof tent, marine plywood is just as good as fiberglass?
The cover on my trailer is fiberglass. I designed it and made the molds for it when I made the trailer tub. It's been offered to the company that sells the tub kit, it's not clear what their plans are for it yet, I haven't heard.



I have the "Safari style" roof top tent from Compact Camping: Compact Camping Concepts, LLC - Tent Units-Compact Camping Concepts, LLC 2013

It fits very well on the trailer:





And the cover can even open with the tent in place



Plywood would be a fine material to make a cover out of.
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Old 03-26-2014, 12:04 PM   #329
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Thanks, much appreciated. Now the debate begins on a trailer like this versus a popup. Each has their pros and cons.
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Old 03-31-2014, 01:53 PM   #330
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Way back when I first started this project, I made 1/4 scale models of the parts in fiberglass to test the assembly and fitting before going full scale (the larger of these tubs is 18" long and 12" wide):



Today I did the same thing for my first sewing project. To test the design and patterns I made for my drawstring cover for the military trailer, I printed the patterns out at 1/4 scale, and sewed up a cover. It's secured by a drawstring, just as the full scale one will be, and it's got support bows across the tub holding it up, also as the full scale one will. The cover is form-fitted to the corners of the tub, so there's no bunching up of the tarp like there is with the original military issue covers.



You can just see the drawstring peeking out of one corner in this next photo. The design concept is that the drawstring is below the flared out section of the tub, so when it's pulled tight, the cover can't come off.





The patterns appear to be correct and the design works, so now I'll make a full size cover. The model cover was made from some camo fabric I picked up in the fabric department of Walmart the other day; a $6.00 Harbor Freight tarp will be providing the raw material for the full scale cover.

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