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Old 10-24-2011, 02:44 PM   #1
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4x4 tires for 2000 wrangler

Hey all I am new with owning a jeep, I am looking at getting some four wheeling tires, I see alot of different things out here for them so I was looking for suggestions(brand, size, type an so forth) for my wrangler, it has no lift

Any suggestions would greatly appreciated thanks

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Old 10-24-2011, 07:06 PM   #2
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30x9.5, Kumho KL78s would be good on/off road tires.

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Old 10-24-2011, 08:07 PM   #3
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Depends on what you want to do with it really! What's the terrain you'd be on mostly and how much do you wheel and what's your price range and size tire do you want?
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Old 10-24-2011, 08:36 PM   #4
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Thanks AC0 will look at them

Invert, I would say more hard terrain then muddin, and of I knew what size I wanted I wouldn't be asking the questions, I am still a noob, so when I upgrade the tires I want it to be right(I don't wanna buy and everyone then goes oh you should of done this or that and find out I really wanted these and fork out more money)), I have city drivers on there now, they are brand new but that's all they are, is city driving
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Old 10-24-2011, 08:43 PM   #5
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Oh and that brings up a good point, what changes from a 31 to like a 33 and what differences are there. I mean I really don't know anything, so looking to learn, and upgrade my jeep correctly
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Old 10-24-2011, 10:09 PM   #6
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From what I've read, you can't go bigger than 31x10.5-15 without a lift. I just got my 99 TJ in September. That's what came on it. I'm about to put some firestone destination mts on it next month. We will see how they turn out. Good luck.
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Old 10-24-2011, 10:15 PM   #7
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If you're in hard rocky terrain you'll probably want a tire with 3ply side walls. Many like the Falken Wild Peak A/Ts. I run duratracs myself. You can fit up to a 31x10.50x15 tire on a stock TJ. In order to run 33s ~4" of lift or flat fenders/highline fenders are recommended.
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Old 10-24-2011, 11:07 PM   #8
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Invert that is EXACTLY the info and suggestions I am looking for! Thank you so much, now another question, if I lift it, who do you trust to do the lift? Do I take it to Jeep, for the warranty? My big concern is getting the death wobble, from everything I read, it seems to most happen when you lift it.
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Old 10-24-2011, 11:40 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChiliJeep
Invert that is EXACTLY the info and suggestions I am looking for! Thank you so much, now another question, if I lift it, who do you trust to do the lift? Do I take it to Jeep, for the warranty? My big concern is getting the death wobble, from everything I read, it seems to most happen when you lift it.
So really you should be fine with an aggressive A/T, but if you're more serious than a M/T such as the BFG KM2 which are ever so popular but are also very weighty and your gas mileage will drop. I don't know too much about tires for rocks, I'm assuming you're out west? Of you're not doing anything too serious check out the duratracs. They've been awesome on road as they are light and are siped and off-road I have had no problems with them. I have played in the rocks a little but they weren't sharp so i didn't have to worry about chunking the tread.

As far as 33s goes, there are a few schools of thought. The first school of thought is high quality suspension components. It involves a 4" suspension lift and comes with new coils, shocks, adjustable control arms, track bars, extended brake lines, extended sway bar links, and a Slip Yoke Eliminator is recommended to correct the driveline vibes you'll get from the driveshaft angle. This is very expensive as each part is pricey, but very high quality. Popular companies are Currie, Rokmen, and Rock Kralwer.

Another school of thought that is becoming more popular is smaller suspension lift and a very small body lift such as 2.5-3" coils and shocks and a 1-1.25" body lift. This lets you clear 33 tires but you can keep your control arms if you so choose depending on how involved you want to get. This also doesn't change the drive line angles too much and vibrations can be fixed by using tcase spacers to drop the tcase and lessen the drive shaft angle. You do still need extended sway bars and possibly a rear trackbar relocation bracket. This is less expensive than a 4" and keeps the center of gravity lower. A really good company for this is OME or a combination of other company's parts. This also sets you up for another popular mod called a Tummy Tuck which raises the transfercase up into the frame and uses a high clearance skid plate giving you another 3-4" of clearance underneath but requires a new drive shaft, upper control arms, and SYE. It's very cool though as it gives you the same breakover angle as if you were running 37" tires, but with more sane 33" tires.

Another school of thought is the low center of gravity build. They cut the fenders and hood to allow the tires to fit and leave the stock suspension as is. You can fit 33s with no lift whatsoever or 35s with 2.5" of lift. Popular companies include MetalCloak and the AEV Highline kit. You can also add a 1.25" body lift and do the Tummy Tuck like mentioned before.

Another issue to worry about is gearing. 33s will kill your power depending on your engine/transmission/gearing combo. I had the 4.0L, 5 speed, and 3.73s and was told that I would be fine with 33s. I completely lost 5th gear on the highway and just felt sluggish everywhere. Not to mention my MPG dropped to 13mpg. I couldn't take it and regeared to 4.56 and couldn't be happier and my MPG is back up to 17-18mpg and i have full use of gears again. But it is all about tolerance. I know a Guy with the 4cyl on 35s with stock gearing and is okay with it.

I definitely suggest you keep reading and absorbing information before you spend any money.

I went with the Rough Country 2.5" suspension lift + 1.25" body lift but almost regret not piecing together my own kit. The RC shocks are horrible and had a horrible ride. I have since replaced them with OME shocks and made me wish i had dropped the extra coin for them from the start. Here is how it sits today.









I'm sure I've missed some stuff but hopefully it gave you a good idea of the many roads you can take.

Edit: if everything is tight and in alignment you will not have death wobble. That happens when tires.go out of balance and bushings get worn out and stuff loosens up. Don't take you jeep to the dealer for the install. They'll bend you over for the prices and Mopar doesn't make good kits IIRC.
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Old 10-24-2011, 11:53 PM   #10
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If you do a Budget Boost Lift kit; with spacers placed above the the springs and longer shocks, or just do a taller spring lift kit with shocks, you may be able to do it yourself with minimal assistance from a friend. I just did mine 2 weeks ago. I had a Good Year Dealer do the front end alignment after I installed the new wheels with the new tires already mounted to them (Tire Rack). I haven't had the Death Wobble, or any other problems either.

Look at my profile pics if you want, I had no lift and 30x9.50x15 BF Goodrich T/A KOs they wore very well, and were quiet but didn't do great in the rain. I went with a 2.25" SkyJacker Budget Boost Lift kit with hydro shocks and 33x12.50x15 Good Year Duratracs, they are almost as quiet (barely noticable), the ride is great and they look awesome!

The Duratrac tires that I got actually measured 32" tall by 11" wide while they were mounted on the new wheels that I ordered. (with 34 psi, came shipped that way) I have lowered them to 28 psi.

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