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Old 02-04-2013, 03:41 PM   #1
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'08 JK- rebuilt long block or new engine?

I bought my Jeep at a substantial discount due to ominous engine noise- it needs a new one. Jeep has 100k miles. Labor will be the same in each case- about $1000. Jeep is a second vehicle, less than 5000 miles/year. My choices:

1. Rebuilt long block from our local auto parts store for $2000 . 3 year warranty
2. "New" take out complete engine left over from a Hemi swap for $2500. No warranty.
3. New production 3.8 engine for $3800 from authorized dealer. Full factory warranty for 100k miles.

Which would you do and why? Budget will NOT tolerate a hemi conversion- thanks.

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Old 02-04-2013, 03:55 PM   #2
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Of the three you mentioned, I would go with number three.

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Old 02-04-2013, 04:16 PM   #3
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By "long block" you mean...? I know a "small block" is usually a 350 but idk the size on a "long block" or the reliability.

I'd probably go with the 3.8 new from the factory. You don't know if the other engine was winterized and properly stored before putting it away, plus everything should be lubed properly before firing it up. A tech will probably just throw it in, pour oil in and turn the key, dry starting it. The brand new one will still be coated with assembly lube and should give you less troubles in the long run
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Old 02-04-2013, 04:21 PM   #4
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Of the 3 choices probably choice #3 because it is the safest option.
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Old 02-04-2013, 04:24 PM   #5
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From eHow:

A complete engine is broken down into two basic sub-assemblies: The long block and the short block. The short block includes the block and rotating assembly (crankshaft, rods, and pistons). The long block is simply a short block with the cylinder heads bolted on. Note that the long block does not include the intake or exhaust manifolds, accessory drive or fuel system.

Read more: What Is a Long Block? | eHow.com What Is a Long Block? | eHow.com
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Old 02-04-2013, 04:25 PM   #6
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$3800 is chump change. I wouldnt want to deal with a aftermarket rebuild, and a used motor is just that. You dont know what care it got and how it was treated. Price difference isnt big enough to warrant the gamble IMO. Fyi a long block for an M5 is like $25k.
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Old 02-04-2013, 04:26 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lasik1
From eHow:

A complete engine is broken down into two basic sub-assemblies: The long block and the short block. The short block includes the block and rotating assembly (crankshaft, rods, and pistons). The long block is simply a short block with the cylinder heads bolted on. Note that the long block does not include the intake or exhaust manifolds, accessory drive or fuel system.

Read more: What Is a Long Block? | eHow.com What Is a Long Block? | eHow.com
True. Makes sense. Yeah I stand my my earlier choice #3.
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Old 02-04-2013, 06:15 PM   #8
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Option A.) $2k, with 3 year warranty is a great deal for a long block.
Chances are they took the time to rebuild it correctly.
Most reputable shops can install an engine in a day or two. sometime new motors throw fault codes than need to be sorted out but the install itself isn't too bad.

I assume the dealership is quoting just the engine block as well.

Chances are they did not include all the sensors, plugs, wires, gaskets, fluids and fasteners they'll claim can't be re-used.
Expect another $1,500 on top of whatever the dealership verbally quoted you. Nothing personal, it's just what they do for a living. Quote low, charge high, rinse & repeat..
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Old 02-04-2013, 06:33 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by truenorth View Post
option a.) $2k, with 3 year warranty is a great deal for a long block.
Chances are they took the time to rebuild it correctly.
Most reputable shops can install an engine in a day or two. Sometime new motors throw fault codes than need to be sorted out but the install itself isn't too bad.

I assume the dealership is quoting just the engine block as well.

Chances are they did not include all the sensors, plugs, wires, gaskets, fluids and fasteners they'll claim can't be re-used.
Expect another $1,500 on top of whatever the dealership verbally quoted you. Nothing personal, it's just what they do for a living. Quote low, charge high, rinse & repeat..
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Old 02-04-2013, 08:42 PM   #10
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I dont quote low then add stuff later. I quote whatever I need to do the job upfront. However, we dont have a crystal ball. So if I tear apart a car with 100k on it, odds are a lot of brittle stuff will not be happy being disturbed after so long, and once you're in, especially at that kind of mileage, you end up bringing stuff to the customers attention that should be dealt with now. You want to reuse a thermostat and water pump with 100k on them? As long as the motor and trans are separated, should we do the clutch now and all you have to pay for is the clutch parts and no labor? An irresponsible shop would let you roll out and wait for it to break on you so they can get more labor out of you later. I love how people who dont work in the industry throw blanket statements about things, situations and people they dont know about.
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Old 02-04-2013, 10:10 PM   #11
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Dam dissin the dealer again,i think the dealer engine is new right,i didnt think 3800.00 is for reman.
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Old 02-04-2013, 10:47 PM   #12
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A friend just went through this on his '07. Went to COP4x4 (now has a new name) and got engine and transmission complete for 2500. An '11 unit with 6000 miles on it. I would do this, as you would get a low mileage transmission out of it. About the only thing that is different between the 2 or the O2 sensors. I told him to just by new O2 sensors for his 07.

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Old 02-04-2013, 11:12 PM   #13
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With #1 I'd be ok with it, except it's not much less than #3 and a lot more work than #3.

With #2 you say "new", how new are we talking here? If it was super low miles and babied I wouldn't have an issue, but chances are..

With #3 you have some security, personally I'd take this option.
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Old 02-13-2013, 05:51 PM   #14
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That labor charge sounds too good to be true. Is the dealership doing the work? I'm in the same boat, dead 3.8L in my '07 but seriously contemplating an LS upgrade as my current research is showing a lot of folks with a similar problem to mine and EXTREME oil burning. Very hesitant about replacing the 3.8.
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Old 02-13-2013, 06:04 PM   #15
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well if you go by the book, it should take 16 hours to replace a long block. time for switching over oil pan, front cover, valve covers, motor mounts, etc etc. so whoever gave yout he quote on the 1000 dollar labor rate is charging 60-65 dollars an hour, if they didnt bump up the labor time to 17 or 18 hours.
If you are dropping in a complete engine, oil pan, front cover, valve covers, etc etc etc, then it should take 12 hours. All labor times in my post come from alldata.com.
I would recommend a reman engine from the dealership and if you change your own oil, keep all your records. If the engine starts to burn oil before warrenty is up, it should be covered.
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Old 02-14-2013, 01:00 PM   #16
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Take option #4....Hemi
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Old 02-14-2013, 02:04 PM   #17
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Being at the end of a nightmare after having the engine in my 96 Ford EB Explorer replaced, I can tell you one thing.

Whatever you do, make damned sure that the shop doing the work has done it before numerous times on your model vehicle. I also recommend that you avoid Jasper engines at all costs. I had to get three engines from them before getting one that did not fail before the first 500 miles.

The idiot that worked on mine damaged the wiring in the car so badly that the car has been very unreliable ever since.

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