While on the trail last weekend, I noticed that the switches for my Rubicon factory lockers and swaybar disconnect didn't seem to do anything. No dash lights, no sound of actuators, no noticeable difference in handling. Checked the manual, tried it again in 4-LO, no response at all. After checking the fuses but not having the confidence to start checking switches and relays, I stopped in at a small shop who quoted something like $3300 for a replacement harness and computer. I was also told that there was no way I could currently shift into 4WD. I understand how he's technically correct without lockers but shifting into 4HI and 4LO works fine (I'm positive) so I'm skeptical. I'll probably get a second opinion at another shop next week but I'd like to get as far as I can on my own at this point and learn a few things along the way. I've searched for threads and write ups on the electrical side of the factory lockers and sway bar and haven't found much.
Any tips on removing the panel that houses the factory switches? Are there any threads or write ups covering this I might have missed? I am the second owner so no warranty. Not my daily driver so it's not a problem to have it out of commission for a bit while I work on it. If it is the harness and computer the mechanic was talking about, does that price seem high? I'm considering picking up the 1987-2008 Haynes repair manual but I'm worried about detail covering such a wide range. Any direction at all would be greatly appreciated!
If anyone familiar with this happens to be in the Phoenix area and wouldn't mind looking at it with me for a few hours, there's a good lunch and a case of craft beer in it for you. I'm planning on running the Airpark Jeep Jamboree tomorrow since literally everything else is working great unless you guys advise against it!
Even if you aren't in 4 low, the lock light should flash when you hit the locker button. Since it's not on, and the sway bar doesn't come on, it's something they have in common. Get it to a dealer and have them get codes out of it. It's probably the switch or communication wire.
I forgot to post the resolution to this- I had a local offroad shop show me how to get at those switches, took it home and opened it up to start measuring, got a call and had to leave not 15 minutes in, noticed that there were now lights on these switches where there were none before, and sure enough everything worked and has been flawless ever since. The connector was simply loose.
Gave the first shop a bit of a talking to. Thanks for steering my in the right direction!
Hi Tofupancho! I am in Phoenix as well (Scottsdale up by the TPC/Kierland/Airpark area - I live like right around the corner from Airpark Jeep).
What shop did you go to first and second so I have some ideas when I need a shop?
DId you do the Jamboree offroad? I was going to-but then I ended up oversleeping and missed it. I did go to the dealer/vendor/lunch though and saw some awesome Jeeps. Also heard that one of the offroad groups got lost on the trail and had to double back about 20 miles lol!
2014 JKR Granite Crystal, 4.10 Auto
MY MALLCRAWLER: RK X Factor 2.5 Inch Lift, Artec Front and Rear Truss, Artec Rear LCA Mounts/Skids, Poison Spyder HD Crossmember, Rock Hard Gas/TC/Evap/Oil Skids, Nitto Trail Grapplers 37x12.5x17, Pro Comp 97 Series Wheels.