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10A Coil Swap JKU PICS!!

13K views 41 replies 16 participants last post by  aTX427 
#1 ·
So i Just got the 10A coil swap done from my 17/58 stock sahara
Have Fox 2.0 Performance series IFP shocks 0-1" lift
Rubicon Express 3/4" front coil spacer with stock spring isolator
Rear Sway bar links installed in the front.....feels a bit wallowy, may need to go with shorter links
Coil Part Numbers are Front: 68196006AA Rear: 68196009AA
Tires BFG A/T KO2 275/70/17
Wheels Black Rock Steel

The Fox shocks ride great, not kidney rattling stiff like some other people have described them. Over all Im more than happy both with the lift and the shocks

Measurements
Stock with 3/4" front coil spacer:
Fender to Ground
Front: 36.5"
Rear: 36.5"

Rock rail to ground
Front:17.75"
Rear: 18.5"

Measurements with 10A coils
Fender to Ground
Front: 38.75"
Rear: 38.5"

Rock Rail to ground
Front: 19.25"
Rear: 19.75"

Now for some pics
 

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#11 ·
Over all from the rock rails to the ground, id say more about 1.5" Which is just what I was looking for. Couldn't be happier.


Nice looking rig! Maybe get that back up a hair? You know what they say about opinions right.
Just waiting for the front springs to settle in. I left the 3/4" spacer up front so I wouldn't have to install it later on once the springs settle and sag a bit in the front.

Nice job specing this out... So am I reading that you retained the 3/4" spacer and OE isolator with the 006s?
Yup...its just a higher by 1/4" in front from fender to ground. Once it settles, it should correct the squatting...hopefully

.
Where can you buy new 10A springs?
SPRING. Left, Right. Front Coil. [ZDM], [ZSM]. Suspension, Front, Springs made by Mopar. #68196006AA
Mopar Parts Overstock - Shop OEM Chrysler, Dodge and Jeep Parts Online
 
#4 · (Edited)
View attachment 2164161

^^^This will show you the difference, between a 18 front spring and a 10a 68196006AA front spring.

So with your 17 front original spring, there would be, even more difference!!!!!!!!
 
#9 ·
So i Just got the 10A coil swap done from my 17/58 stock sahara Have Fox 2.0 Performance series IFP shocks 0-1" lift Rubicon Express 3/4" front coil spacer with stock spring isolator Rear Sway bar links installed in the front.....feels a bit wallowy, may need to go with shorter links Coil Part Numbers are Front: 68196006AA Rear: 68196009AA Tires BFG A/T KO2 275/70/17 Wheels Black Rock Steel The Fox shocks ride great, not kidney rattling stiff like some other people have described them. Over all Im more than happy both with the lift and the shocks Measurements Stock with 3/4" front coil spacer: Fender to Ground Front: 36.5" Rear: 36.5" Rock rail to ground Front:17.75" Rear: 18.5" Measurements with 10A coils Fender to Ground Front: 38.75" Rear: 38.5" Rock Rail to ground Front: 19.25" Rear: 19.75" Now for some pics
10a uses the same size sway bar links as any other stock JK.
 
#12 ·
I have a slight problem with the jeep tracking to the right when i'm driving. on The Passengers side the Sway bar link is about 1" away from the spring, you can see it in the picture. On the drivers side its about 1/2" away from the spring. I measured from the edge of the rock rail to the tire, and the drivers side wheel is pushed forward about 1/2" I'm guessing the axle is off centered.

Would this issue be corrected by returning to stock sway bar links?
Or would I need my track bar adjusted/ a wheel alignment?
 
#13 · (Edited)
^ you may only get 1/4" settling.. mine has the heavier 10A bumper.

what you did is exactly what I've been recommending...

you can also use a 1" front spacer and 1/2" rear spacer and achieve the same results you have with 1/2" higher lift..

same shocks, but I would install the Mopar front driveshaft and swap out a few other things from the new Mopar 2" lift kit.

.
 
#16 · (Edited)
What happens when you lift your wrangler, the track bars are no longer horizontal, and therefore have a tendency to pull your axles over, because you have changed the geometry. So they offer drop brackets and adjustable track bars to re-center.
Per your numbers, you have lifted approx. 2". I believe that in most cases from what I have read, the axles have been moved over very minimal at this height, and don't require re-centering.

But, this is not my field of expertise, but it is Kjeeper10's!!!!!!!!

Kjeeper10 is the expert in this area. He will probably drop in on this Thread, but if not, then I would PM him.
 
#19 ·
Alright thanks a lot. I'll PM him tonight just for the ease of mind.

OP your jeep pulling while you drive might need your steering re-centered. Although raising the jeep does take your axles off center, I wouldnt think 1.5" would move your axle that much. Fractional 1/8 to 1/4 inch at best I would think.
I definitely do, my steering wheel is slightly tilted to the left just to drive straight ahead. I drove about 75 miles today and it started to bother me a bit.

Front and rear, or just front? This is important for all to know.

I've never read anyone that reported this after installing the 006/009 springs.

If it's just the front, it must be the 3/4" spacers that sent it off center.

.
Just the front....It might just be the spacers...I was going to wait for the springs to settle to install the coil springs but left them in so I wouldn't have to go back and do it later on.
I just realized today that the passenger side leans 1/2". When someone sits in the drivers seat, everything levels out...could be the reason the sway bar on the passenger side has more clearance between the spring than the drivers side...who knows, I'm sure plenty of advil and frustration the next couple of weeks will get it all sorted out
 
#21 ·
I had put 18's on the front of my JK 60's on back it was pretty level then put a bumper and winch, lights , aluminum bumper synthetic rope so about 110 lbs.
lost almost 2/3 inch at fender so just put 10a's on and gained about 1 1/2 inch at the fender
the 18''s had about 5000 mi. on them the 10a's are new how much do they sag after time ? may have to add to the rear to level it.

pic of 18 and 10a
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Checked height again yesterday the 10a front springs have settle about a half inch in about 4 weeks ,same tire pressure, same temps, same spot
my rock rails are now perfectly level front to back but the front fenders have more of a gap I can live with that.
 
#23 ·
I see you put 10A 4 door springs on your 2 door. Sweet, I wonder how you like them and if you have pictures. I have a 2013 JKUR and I swapped my stock rubicon lift for a 10a, I have since removed them for a 3" lift. I just purchased a 2009 jk B package, complete stocker... I was wondering how much lift you got from those 06aa and 09aa 10a springs on your 2 door? Is the ride rough? Are you willing to provide pictures? Thanks
 
#25 ·
The stance looks great, and it is a nice improvement over stock. I was contemplating just doing the 10A springs at one point, but decided against it due to the following reasons...

1. The height is very close to a 2.5" lift.
2. If you add any armor or steel bumper with winch, it will bring it down some.
3. Sagging is more prone compared to a 2.5" aftermarket lift kit which is designed with a higher spring rate to prevent sagging when loaded with weight.
4. Aftermarket has dual/triple rate springs engineered for onroad and offroad ride.
5. Just like shown above, geometry is not corrected at all (no track bars, track bar relocation brackets that reinforce weak factory brackets, no brake line drop brackets, no bump stops that work with longer shocks, doesn't change articulation that much because retains most of factory components.
6. Caster is not addressed, with the mindset that, "factory 10A didn't have it so I don't need it."
6. Basically same labor, when you can just install aftermarket.
 
#30 ·
The stance looks great, and it is a nice improvement over stock. I was contemplating just doing the 10A springs at one point, but decided against it due to the following reasons...

1. The height is very close to a 2.5" lift. (Agreed - that is actual lift height)
2. If you add any armor or steel bumper with winch, it will bring it down some.(Agreed - prolly bout half inch depending)
3. Sagging is more prone compared to a 2.5" aftermarket lift kit which is designed with a higher spring rate to prevent sagging when loaded with weight.(Agreed as aftermkt 2.5" advertised is more like 3-3.25" actual as the label rating assumes front end weight)
4. Aftermarket has dual/triple rate springs engineered for onroad and offroad ride. (Agreed - aftmkt coil often progressive, not linear like 10A)
5. Just like shown above, geometry is not corrected at all (no track bars, track bar relocation brackets that reinforce weak factory brackets,(10A does not really change the Geo that much imo, no adj track bar needed, pumpkins are 1/16 to 1/8 off center tops no brake line drop brackets(I found OEM lines have enough slack post swap in most cases), no bump stops that work with longer shocks,(Agreed but I kept my red rubis neither overextended) doesn't change articulation that much because retains most of factory components.(Agreed again)
6. Caster is not addressed, with the mindset that, "factory 10A didn't have it so I don't need it." (Really a non-issue on 10A swap, experienced no return steering or handling issues)
6. Basically same labor, when you can just install aftermarket.Agreed +/- hour or two
For hardcore offroading/armor/iron build - Yeah, probably not the best play long term

For aesthetic poor-man lift that retains OEM offroading capabilities and larger wheel-tire setups (80% of the forum) - tough to beat.

For those reading & considering this - just think through where ya wanna to be really. Good points Sined240!
 
#26 ·
Dumb question: Are the 10A springs you guys are talking about just the stock springs from a Rubicon 10A/X/HardRock? I didn't realize they were different than any other JK, or at least any other JK Rubicon.

I'm asking because I'm the new owner of a '14 Rubicon X that has a PowerPlant on it, and the front springs look to have sagged a lot, and not evenly, even though it only has 4500 miles. It isn't a big deal to me, as I'm putting on a 2.5" lift, anyway, but thought I'd mention it.

Mark
 
#27 ·
The 10A is the only Jeep that has an advertised factory lift.... some of the late builds didn't get the 006 and 009 10A springs. So buyer beware..

You'll need to follow Got Mud's installation instuctions if you wish to use the correct factory 10A springs..

Btw... Got Mud has done more technical research than anyone on this subject, so I consider him the SME.

.
 
#35 ·
^Finally, in all fairness the only thing I may not like after the swap is that it can be a bouncy ride occasionally when I hit a rough patch (pothole like street-scars) on the expressway doing like 70-75mph. You best have your hands on the steering wheel because it feels like it bucks a bit. However, this is my first wrangler (coming from a tuned sport car) and my tires are set at 40psi....so it could just be me, as it was bouncy before the swap also.

All and all I actually like the handling better after the swap.
 
#39 ·
LOL, a stiff 2 door does all kinds of funky stuff! Too bad you didn't get the chance to experience a TJ on icy roads, the frisbee effect was quite exhilarating and thank god I never crashed into anything. A TJ with 35's was quite the bouncy joy as well. These new JK's have a slightly longer wheelbase and traction control to stop the frisbee, I dislike traction control but enjoy the extended wheelbase. I'm glad my wife okay'd purchasing the new 2 door, she's a jeeper through and through. I'm excited to put the 10a springs and shocks on, that should be quite the upgrade considering I am running the stock "X" version. Just wanted to make sure it wasn't too lifted, as I still have my 17/59's to work with if the 10a's were just too much. Thanks for the info and keep on keeping on :beerdrinking:
 
#37 ·
I think you would be GTG doing 10A on a 4DR. The reason for that is that your lift will be less - more like 1-1.5" overall. The biggest gains are when you put 10A on 2DRs. The OP's 4DR got good height cuz he slipped some pucks atop the 10A as well.

10A coil on a 4DR (without xtra pucks)....you should be fine remaining on stocker parts. Please note I own a 2DR so I do not have first hand experience with a JKU application, but the lift will be less than mine.
 
#41 ·
I have a 2013 sport jku. I had 1.75" pucks and 10a shocks and springs. It requires longer brake lines and end links. I recently upgraded to 2.5" coils and 9000xl shocks. It rides better thanks to shocks and sits the same height as the 10a springs and pucks. I still have the springs and shocks if anyone wants to try them.
 
#42 ·
Hey guys, I am going to revive an old thread here. Its been a while since I messed around with the 10A springs on my 07 and have since installed them and sold them off, but I am going to start a custom 37" LCG build on my stock 07 JKUR and want to use 10A springs as the starting point. Question - what was the difference from the 10A rear springs to the 60's or 61's? I do not recall much of a difference when I swapped mine out, but its been about a year.
 
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