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Old 11-17-2013, 04:53 PM   #1561
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Finn Sizzle View Post
I tested this. Any water that does get thru that really small hole runs to the back of the hood and down the back of the engine compartment. To make it cleaner, you can probably run a tube from the opening and down the back so it does not drip on anything....I'm looking to make these vents more functional...
Ummm, you have a 10a and tested this ? The hood vents do not drain to the back of the hood in any way shape or form. They drain through the tiny opening directly in to the engine compartment. Roughly between the PCM and engine on the driver side and between the fuse box and engine on the passenger side.

^ is accurate at least on 2013.5 10a.

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Old 11-17-2013, 04:55 PM   #1562
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Originally Posted by SeayJ7 View Post
How do you like those Hutchinson rock monsters? Those are some sick wheels.
Meh ... sold 'em. offset not enough to clear my Dana 60s. they were STUPID heavy and balanced like crap with Krawlers. Not too impressed. Looked awesome in gloss black.

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Old 11-17-2013, 05:08 PM   #1563
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Originally Posted by 1baddrop View Post
Love the all black rig. Whenever I see one this clean I wish I had gotten black... Just so hard to keep clean!
not too tough ... just take it to the carwash

here are some updated pics ...

Synergy coilover conversion, Fox coilovers, Synergy longarms, PSC hydro steering, Poison Spyder Aluminum Fenders, Walker Evans, 39" Krawlers ... Synergy full cage going in this week (front, rear, b-pillar) as well as 5-point harnesses)













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Old 11-17-2013, 06:37 PM   #1564
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Very nice. What kind of step/sliders are those? Thanks.
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Old 11-17-2013, 06:55 PM   #1565
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Very nice. What kind of step/sliders are those? Thanks.
Teraflex. All aluminum. Have plastic end caps so you can trim them down to whatever length you like if you don't want them full length. I still run mine full length.
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Old 11-18-2013, 01:08 PM   #1566
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Originally Posted by 10th_jk_unlimited View Post
Teraflex. All aluminum. Have plastic end caps so you can trim them down to whatever length you like if you don't want them full length. I still run mine full length.

That is one beautiful Rubicon you have going on there. I'm interested in knowing about the PSE Hydro Steer. Does it work well on the highway? Installation difficulty? Etc.

Thanks, Dan
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Old 11-18-2013, 01:20 PM   #1567
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That is one beautiful Rubicon you have going on there. I'm interested in knowing about the PSE Hydro Steer. Does it work well on the highway? Installation difficulty? Etc.

Thanks, Dan
Loaded question. Still under surgery so I personally havent driven it, but I have driven others and its no big deal. Easy to steer. As for install, 2 kits are offered ... factory axles and after market axles. factory axle kit is designed to bolt up to everything ... pretty easy, just run your hoses. Mine is the aftermarket axle kit so welding is required.

Now, with the new battery trays the reservoir takes a little fab work. Can do it all in the garage though. Just be patient and take your time.
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Old 11-18-2013, 07:06 PM   #1568
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Quote:
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Loaded question. Still under surgery so I personally havent driven it, but I have driven others and its no big deal. Easy to steer. As for install, 2 kits are offered ... factory axles and after market axles. factory axle kit is designed to bolt up to everything ... pretty easy, just run your hoses. Mine is the aftermarket axle kit so welding is required.

Now, with the new battery trays the reservoir takes a little fab work. Can do it all in the garage though. Just be patient and take your time.
Cool. Thanks so much. Hey what do you use for controlling you lights and air compressor? Might I suggest sPod 4x4? Unless maybe you have it already or at least have looked at it. I think it's the greatest control panel ever.

Thanks, Dan
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Old 11-18-2013, 07:37 PM   #1569
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Cool. Thanks so much. Hey what do you use for controlling you lights and air compressor? Might I suggest sPod 4x4? Unless maybe you have it already or at least have looked at it. I think it's the greatest control panel ever.

Thanks, Dan
For a controller I use a 5 spot Daystar pod for the lower dash. I have front locker, rear locker, compressor, light bar, rock lights ... all are blue switches. Looks factory.

I'll be removing my factory locker and swaybar disco switches and mounting the next batch of switches there.
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Old 11-18-2013, 10:18 PM   #1570
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Originally Posted by 10th_jk_unlimited View Post
For a controller I use a 5 spot Daystar pod for the lower dash. I have front locker, rear locker, compressor, light bar, rock lights ... all are blue switches. Looks factory.

I'll be removing my factory locker and swaybar disco switches and mounting the next batch of switches there.
That sounds awesome. It sounds like there's no stopping you and your mods. It looks wonderful. Do you go to Sema in Vegas? We went a few weeks ago. It was outrageous. Everything you could imagine. What's you thoughts on an Atlas Transfer Case? That's what I'm on to next I think.
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Old 11-19-2013, 07:02 AM   #1571
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Nope on sema. And nope on atlas. Not made for the 3.6 power train yet. Once it is, I'll own one for sure.
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Old 11-20-2013, 02:12 PM   #1572
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Ok. Here has been the problem we have had with the lockpick. They sent 2 that were up dated and ready to go. One back up cam wouldn't work the other once you put in reverse the cam come on and the only way to get it to turn off was to put back in park and turn vehicle off. So we are going to try #4. Also the USB in console didn't work. When lockpick was installed. Do I lose that function? Would be nice to have that for iPod and other plug for iPhone. Any info would be nice or advise.
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Old 11-21-2013, 03:16 PM   #1573
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2013 slowly getting there

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just want a bumper light bar but nothing available yet


grrrrrr.......
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Old 11-21-2013, 05:12 PM   #1574
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just want a bumper light bar but nothing available yet grrrrrr.......
maximus 3 makes a hoop with mounts for lights that attach on the bumper
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Old 11-21-2013, 09:35 PM   #1575
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Maximus also has brackets to add the lights to the front bumper using existing bolts.
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Old 11-27-2013, 10:50 PM   #1576
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Yes, and that's Maximus-3.com if you're looking. They provide excellent support to go with a great and growing line of products for our 10As, and other iterations as well.
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Old 11-28-2013, 03:47 PM   #1577
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Does the neoprene cover fit well in the bumper? I just ordered the zeon 10 and would like that cover to put on in bad weather
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Old 11-28-2013, 05:19 PM   #1578
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Does the neoprene cover fit well in the bumper? I just ordered the zeon 10 and would like that cover to put on in bad weather
If I wouldn't have centered it it would fit better I think. But my winch is a little different then the zeon so you may have more or less room on the sides. The cover itself fits really nice if you have the room on each side to get it put on properly.
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Old 11-29-2013, 02:27 PM   #1579
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Anyone have a Ripp Supercharger?
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Old 12-06-2013, 10:00 PM   #1580
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Fuel Trophy D552 17 x 8.5,
got tired of the stock wheels!
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Old 12-07-2013, 09:40 AM   #1581
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Bumper Pics ... Rigids in the front and I modified the rear bumper to house the Maxxima LED lights instead of the cheasy PSC reverse lights. Also, "officially" branded her "The Mistress" !!!













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Old 12-07-2013, 05:29 PM   #1582
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Maximus-3 10A LED Bar Brackets

Fits 12" & 20" LED bars.
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Old 12-08-2013, 02:20 PM   #1583
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2013 JKU Rubicon 10th Anniversary Maximus-3, Dually D2 in OEM

Sorry for delayed response, double shoulder surgery kept me down and I'm still in slings while typing.

I installed the Maximus-3 last month. Since I had to tear the front-end down I also installed my Hella e-code headlights and the Dually D2 fogs in Rubi10A OEM slots. Susquehanna provided me a modified wiring harness to power headlights and fogs from battery with relays to the OEM lights and fogs. I also installed a grill screen and clear parking/marker/signals on the front, and finally a hood-lock.

I can say it took me two weekends and that it was horrifically painful to install the Maximus. The front bumper comes off fine, but the tolerances for the provided winch plate are so close that I had to widen a couple of holds with a drill to get full alignment. Getting everything back together along with the brush bar took magical alignment properties I didn't have, so minor widening was necessary to get all in place. It's heavy duty steel so 1/32" off and you cannot insert bolts by leveraging.

If you do this install - read instructions top to bottom, and buy all the tools prior to removing bumper (it's embarrasing to drive down to HD without a bumper to get a hole saw).

If you choose to install an "in-frame" winch instead of a top mounted, then please consider these hints:

Install all of your front-end stuff in one go. Because you have to remove the winch to remove the front grill, so do your headlights, grill screen, fogs, etc all at once if possible.

You have a choice to cut holes in your front skid plate, to install the winch bolts - DO IT. It makes the re-install a snap but more importantly with an "in-frame" winch the only way to remove the front grill is to remove the winch. Eeeek.

Save the precious plastic rivets that hold things in place! I broke the two 3/4" rivets that hold the spacer behind the bumper, new ones cost me $10 a piece at the stealer.

The OEM spacer on the bumper will not work, there is only about 3/4" between front grill and back of winch and doesn't allow for re-install, so you have to make your own spacer. I bought 1/32" black delrin on Amazon and will cut out using the original as a template, will install later. This is to basically cover the space between bumper and grill on each side of and behind the winch.

The original winch cover will not fit because the winch is down between the rails, so nothing to cover the cable or winch, it is exposed. This is the place between bumper and winch, on our Rubi10A's it is a metal plate that is removed to install the winch. I bought a flexible rubber mat at k-mart (exercise mat) that is black and durable for $24. I will cut out a pattern using the original metal plate and install using platic rivets in the OEM holes in the bumper so that the top of the winch is exposed but the spool and cable is covered from sunlight. As I understand it these ropes are sensitive to sunlight, which we get lots of here in FL.

Leave about 12" of extra power and ground cable at the winch, so that if you or the dealer need to remove the front grill you can unbolt the winch and pull it out without removing electrical connections. Funny story I left the front grill for last (oops) and had to remove the winch to re-install front grill, but with slack zip-tied into bumper that is easy to do.

The winch comes with a wireless and a wired remote, some gloves and a snatch block. I got a tree saver and keep all in a Smittybilt tailgate gear cover.

Dually D2's do NOT fit in the Rubi 10A fogs - well to be precise, the light fits, but the mount doesn't work. The Rubi 10A fogs are NOT OEM mounts. I had to make my own. I used a 2" x 2" angle bracket, drilled a hole to line up with the D2 mounting hole and secured with a 8mm bolt into light - I used self-tapping steel screws to secure angle bracket to back of bumper. On the outside, as luck would have it, there is a plastic rivet on the outer side of the fog light that lines up with the D2 mount hole, once removed you can push another 8mm bolt through to secure the light on the other side. It was meant to be!!

The grill screen is steel lathing painted using Rustolium ultra cover paint+primer Gloss Apple Red. Also painted top of winch and tow hook. Best method to install grill screen is to buy zip tie holders (square with adhesive), remove adhesive, use Gorilla epoxy bonding to perm install inside of grill, then zip tie screen. I used 13, YMMV.

I bought the size XL riveter from Harbor Freight (local store for me but online as well) and used that tool to install the plastic rivets on the fender well when installing clear marker lights and when installing the hood lock. The instructions were clear and easy.

Yes, after this pics were made I figured out to leave the winch in gear and tighten tow hook to the fairlead.
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Old 12-08-2013, 02:38 PM   #1584
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BTW - as a quick follow-up, about a week after install I accidentally got stuck in a swamp while riding a gas pipeline. Recent rains had swelled the swamp and it encroached on the pipeline, before I knew it I was up to the skid plates in swamp muck.

Nearest tree was at my 90 degress about 80 feet away (it's a pipeline after all) and I was alone (naturally). So I ran the tow line to that row of trees ran the winch control back to me as driver, and using the winch duck-walked through the swamp (had to forward to tree through swamp, not backwards to solid ground) until I could get tires on the roots of the trees. So, tow pulling plus low 4 at about 80 degrees from front - not very optimal. And no snatch block (left at home). Winch performed as expected, I then winched myself across the roots of the trees from tree to tree until I was back on the solid part of the pipeline.

The winch performed as advertised, swampy muck sucking on tires and skid plate, little to no tire traction, many spools out from winch. I am happy as this is about a worse case scenario for me.

FWIW - the stock tires on the Rubi10A suck rocks. Little to no grip in this mud bog and they didn't clean well, just caked up and became slicks.
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Old 12-08-2013, 05:54 PM   #1585
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The General - LTG View Post
Fits 12" & 20" LED bars.
General
What foglight setup are you running in that BA rig?
How did you mount them?
Thanks
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Old 12-08-2013, 06:27 PM   #1586
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General
What foglight setup are you running in that BA rig?
How did you mount them?
Thanks
Jay
That's a Black Box Logistics 20" LED bar mounted on Maximus-3 brackets. Very easy install and no drilling required.
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Old 12-08-2013, 07:24 PM   #1587
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That's a Black Box Logistics 20" LED bar mounted on Maximus-3 brackets. Very easy install and no drilling required.
General,
My question reference pic 1 showing JW Speaker fogs. Was curious which model 6045/6145 and how you chose to mount them.
Thanks
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Old 12-08-2013, 07:38 PM   #1588
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I have jw speaker fogs in my 10A. They are the 6045 version. They fit right into the bumper using the OEM fog mounting brackets. I got the pair of them for $350 at eastern performance motorcycle. I also did buy the adapter so I didn't have to splice them in. That was another $18.
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Old 12-09-2013, 05:36 AM   #1589
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Any advice on changing headlight bulbs?

Seems hard to get my hand back there?

Thanks
Ed
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Old 12-09-2013, 09:01 PM   #1590
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First snow with Ruby and she ate it up. Can see rampage hood locks, truck lites, grill mod, antenna x and cowl protectors added.

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