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Old 06-25-2013, 11:36 AM   #1
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Question 2012 Dead Battery

2012 JKU with 18000 miles, bought in October of 2011.

I parked my Jeep on Friday night and didn't try to start it again until Sunday afternoon. The battery was almost completely dead. I was going to jump start it, but the car I was going to use to jump it had the battery on the left side, so cables weren't long enough. So I borrowed a battery charger, plugged in and left charging for 5 minutes. I was then able to get it started. I then drove around for 30 minutes to let it charge. No problem since, but I usually drive every day.

I made an appointment with the dealer because I'm due for service (got maint plan so oil change is pre-paid).

Here's the question: If they say it's the battery and it's NOT covered under warranty, should I get the battery somewhere else? If so, what battery is recommended? Sears Diehard still good?

Back story: I have an elaborate stereo system + had an air locker, compressor. Plus I have a front Rubi D44 with aftermarket wiring. So figure they might say that since I have so much aftermarket electrical done, might not be covered.

Edit: Also had a trailer hitch wired by UHAUL.

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Old 06-25-2013, 11:50 AM   #2
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I had the same on my 2012 jku. Had to disconnect the battery, let the computer reset, and restart. Worked fine since. Weird.

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Old 06-25-2013, 12:10 PM   #3
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The battery IS covered under your 3/36K bumper to bumper warranty. But, if the dealer cites your electrical mods as the cause of failure.... you're going to be out-of-pocket on this one....

Do make sure it's the battery, and that it is actually damaged before you just throw in a new one, could be an underlying cause for the slow battery drain, or the alternator could be faulty....


Edit: Consumer Reports (Boooo..) rates the Diehard Advanced Gold (expensive!) very highly (best for JK size 34/78), but the Diehard Gold as pretty poor. Optima Yellow Top is also expensive (±$200!) but very highly rated and gets lots of good reviews by folks on WF.
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Old 06-25-2013, 02:17 PM   #4
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The batteries in the 2012 have some bad lots. Mine had a cell die at 800 miles, dealer replaced it and now I carry a portable battery power station.
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Old 06-25-2013, 02:55 PM   #5
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LOL...my battery on my '12 died last Thurday night. Drove just fine from home to Chili's. After dinner, got in to start it and nothing. Headlights very dim, horn wouldn't sound, interior lights dim. Luckily we live 500 yards away, so we got the Xterra there, tried to jump it and no luck....bad cell. Called JCD roadside assistance....was told 1 hour on a tow truck. I asked if it'd be a flat bed, because Wranglers can't be towed with wheels on the ground and was assured that JCD ALWAYS specifies flatbeds. 4 hrs later a regular tow truck shows up. I told him they were supposed to have a flat bed come out, he scratched his head and said there was one just down the street and he'd call it, but he never knew that 4WD vehicles couldn't be towed like any other car. An hour later the flat bed showed up. By the grace of god we somehow got the jeep out of park (remember, no battery juice) and into neutral and he took it away. Got it back Saturday just before the dealership closed.

So yes some batteries just die for no good reason. BTW, it was 100% covered under warranty, and I have the PIAA dual tone horns installed, so they could have given me hell about that but didn't.
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Old 06-25-2013, 03:03 PM   #6
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Thanks all for the info. I didn't know there were some known issues, but that's why I posted.

Hopefully they will not try to charge me. If so, I'll probably go aftermarket.

When mine was dead, also couldn't get it into neutral. I was originally going to push it out of my garage to get the jump. Had to go with the charger when it wouldn't shift.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Up Hill Bill View Post
Do make sure it's the battery, and that it is actually damaged before you just throw in a new one, could be an underlying cause for the slow battery drain, or the alternator could be faulty....


Edit: Consumer Reports (Boooo..) rates the Diehard Advanced Gold (expensive!) very highly (best for JK size 34/78), but the Diehard Gold as pretty poor. Optima Yellow Top is also expensive (±$200!) but very highly rated and gets lots of good reviews by folks on WF.
Yeah, figure I'll have them make sure there's not a power drain. I wouldn't doubt it.

I'll check into the Optima. Not sure I want to spend that much though.
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Old 06-25-2013, 04:21 PM   #7
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Couldn't you guys who had dead batteries and couldn't get the tranny out of park....



....just put the transfer case in neutral...... (Wise @$$...)
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Old 06-25-2013, 04:23 PM   #8
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Mine died as well after a year of usage, which the dealer replaced. Left my Jeep sitting for a few weeks without being started (with the new battery). Dead - had to jump start.

I'll be buying a battery at Costco when I'm out of warranty. The only thing worse than Jeep batteries are Jeep headlights
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Old 06-25-2013, 04:50 PM   #9
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Quote:
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Couldn't you guys who had dead batteries and couldn't get the tranny out of park....



....just put the transfer case in neutral...... (Wise @$$...)
Tried that, wouldn't work. I was parked on a slope facing away from the tow truck behind me w/o the parking brake. After giving it some juice from the tow truck we were able to get the ATX selector from Park to Neutral, allowing him to get it on the flatbed.

BTW, Bill......where on the north coast of California are you? I'm looking at moving to Eureka.
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Old 06-25-2013, 05:32 PM   #10
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BTW, Bill......where on the north coast of California are you? I'm looking at moving to Eureka.
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Old 06-25-2013, 05:39 PM   #11
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Don't waste your money on an optima. Simply get a 96R (OE replacement) and be done. And for god sakes.. please... please never put an AGM battery inline with your flooded cell OE battery... like the trays they sell, horrible idea. If you have ANY battery questions just pm me
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Old 06-25-2013, 05:51 PM   #12
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I have to disagree on on "wasting money" on an Optima. He clearly is moving toward needing a Deep Cycle battery with after market stereo and an air locker. Those air locker compressors can draw up to 30A, and they're taxing on a standard battery if he uses it with the vehicle off and it drains it. If you want to keep killing batteries, then stick with a "starting" battery and keep using it for things other than just starting. But, I advocate getting the right battery for the application, and that would be a deep cycle.

There's also nothing wrong with an absorbed glass mat battery parallel to your OE battery. As long as the system is controlled by a "smart" isolator, or one that voltage senses both batteries for charging and isolating, they will both remain healthy for many years. Specially if you move all accessories to the deep cycle battery such that when the vehicle is off, all accessories run off of the deep cycle, and the OE battery remains for vehicle starting only.

If you get the right battery for the job, you'll get many years of service out of them.
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Old 06-25-2013, 06:20 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcgee10 View Post
The batteries in the 2012 have some bad lots. Mine had a cell die at 800 miles, dealer replaced it and now I carry a portable battery power station.
My 2012 Wrangler Sport had a battery problem recently. Jeep started twice within two hours with no problem. Parked, shut off engine, completed my errand, tried to start, no engine crank sound, but dash lights going nuts, enough juice to put windows down and enough to get auto trans out of park.

Called AAA. Battery tested "replace battery". Jumped started and headed for the dealer, en-route dash lights going nuts again, ABS light coming on & off, speedometer bouncing up and down, tach going crazy. Engine light not on, but engine has little power and ABS system seemed out of control.

Left it at dealer, I figure something is terribly wrong, get the call a few hours later, "battery had internal fault". Dealer replaced battery all under warranty. I was so relieved.

Here's the interesting twist. The auto trans is shifting noticeably smoother, and the gas mileage sensor, indicates I'm getting much better gas mileage, like 21 on the highway. I never saw it read over 18 since I bought it in August 2011 and I always wondered why the trans shifted so rough, just thought that was the nature of things.

This was the first issue in 14,000 miles. Great Jeep, so fun to drive.
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Old 06-25-2013, 06:28 PM   #14
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And here I thought the alternator powerered a vehicle after startup?
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Old 06-25-2013, 06:39 PM   #15
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LBrito- Although i appreciate your enthusiasm you are in fact wrong, here is why...

Optimas, while decent batteries... are not the BEST. IF you gonna drop the coin, get an Oddessy. But i do like optimas..

Pairing an AGM and a flooded cell battery... Never a wise idea. Even if you have a "smart" isolator or not. By the way, a smart isolator is just one that has the ability to remove a battery bank from the charging circuit in order to give priority to the pack that is currently more in demand. All instruction manuals state they should be used with matching chemistry type and RC or Ah rating. Will it work? Yes. Will it give you the most in performance, reliably, cost effectiveness, relieving stress on the charging system.. no? You would be must better off with a single AGM battery that meets or exceeds OE specs. The fact that the batteries are being charged in parallel complicates the situation. Flooded and AGM batteries like to float at a few tenths different voltages. This results in a less than ideal finishing charge. The differences in chemistry and capacity lead to inevitable differences in internal resistance further increasing the difference in voltage between the two batteries. Although Optima construction and performance are strong points, they do not withstand deep discharges very well. Their internal resistance often increases to the point where it takes over 16 volts to push any current during charging. That's where the construction and chemistry get in the way; they cause heat to be produced and retained resulting in loss of electrolyte, death for any AGM battery. I sell or service at least 20 batteries a day, auto, marine, all chemistries, construction and applications. A good AGM battery ultimately wins out because of power density and resistance to shock and vibration. Yep, Optimas die. ALL batteries are dying from the day they are activated. Perhaps it's because people have typically had an Optima so long that they are upset to see it go. Optima Red Tops did have some quality issues about 3 years ago related to transfer of corporate control. Their deep cycle batteries have, in my experience, shown superior durability. An over spec AGM battery is always my recommendation for vehicles with big amps, winches or which see rough roads. Just don't expect it to last forever.
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Old 06-25-2013, 06:43 PM   #16
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If they don't cover it, get a diehard platinum from sears. Same as Odyssey (the best) but far cheaper. It is also a virgin lead deep cycle spillproof battery. I used to swear by Optimas, but their quality control has gone down the sh!tter.
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Old 06-25-2013, 07:16 PM   #17
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LBinto- Your not wrong, i shouldn't have stated that, just kinda off. Your absolutely right, he needs a dual purpose/ deep cycle battery for his application. I just don't agree with pairing an agm and a flooded. On the optima thing... They are $150 cheaper then an Odyssey but seriously... Those Odyssey's are soooo ridiculously good.
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Old 06-25-2013, 07:40 PM   #18
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LBinto- Your not wrong, i shouldn't have stated that, just kinda off. Your absolutely right, he needs a dual purpose/ deep cycle battery for his application. I just don't agree with pairing an agm and a flooded. On the optima thing... They are $150 cheaper then an Odyssey but seriously... Those Odyssey's are soooo ridiculously good.
Which is why I recommended the Sears DieHard Platinum. It's a Odyssey in a Sears dress.
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Old 06-25-2013, 07:53 PM   #19
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The odyssey and diehards are made in different plants... however the virgin lead has more to do with it then anything. I don't have any info on the diehards expect where they are made, non exclusive materials used, their sources.. ect. This post has now given me a reason to go pick one up and run it through the paces. I own a battery shop, so this is actually my hobby I will report in a month or two with a side by side by side. The optima D34/78 yellow top, odyssey PC1500MJDT, and the sears diehard AGM 34/78DT. I'm excited!!!
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Old 06-25-2013, 11:29 PM   #20
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Which is why I recommended the Sears DieHard Platinum. It's a Odyssey in a Sears dress.
I'll probably go that route if they don't replace it. I did a lot of vehicles with built stereo systems in the past 20 years and have always had good luck with the Diehard when I kill the oem battery. Sounds like there's a good chance they'll cover it though.
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Old 06-30-2013, 12:09 AM   #21
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They ended up replacing the battery. Yay dealer!

Yeah I know: Replaced the failing crappy oem battery with a NEW crappy battery...

Well hopefully this one will last longer than the original. I'm about half way through my warranty period. So hopefully this one will last a little longer.
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Old 06-30-2013, 12:13 AM   #22
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Well, no money out of pocket for now at least.
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Old 06-30-2013, 12:38 AM   #23
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Anyone have the Part # of the 3 Batteries above..........?
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Old 06-30-2013, 08:27 AM   #24
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Have a 2012 2dr spt 12k on the clock took my mother to dinner on mothers day came out of restaurant around 8.30pm went on a sat she hates crowds anyway it was dead all lights doing crazy devilish sheet even with every thing off no key in switch glad my brother was there he took her home while I waited on a tow tried to jump it wit his Toyota 15min no good anyway it was the battery at least it was under warranty strange though it would only last to 12k but it doe's happen.
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Old 07-01-2013, 06:30 AM   #25
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I have always bought Interstate batteries for my replacements and here's why. In every little tiny town everywhere there is a place that sells Interstate batteries and any of them will replace them no question asked. It has only happened to me once in the middle of no where. EVERY battery manufacturer has had some batteries with bad cells.
Interstate is the least hassle battery you can buy.
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Old 08-17-2013, 02:49 PM   #26
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You've got me real interested in the results on your side by side test. Hows it going so far?
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Old 08-17-2013, 04:28 PM   #27
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We are currently at 250+- discharge cycles to %30 depth of discharge. All are performing well.. the optima and oddessey have cycled in and gained about 20cca and 1-3 Ah RC. The diehard is the exact same as the start of the test. They should all start losing performance within the next 100 cycles.. we will see what one holds up best!
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Old 08-17-2013, 04:32 PM   #28
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All are being fix drained at 3 amps in a temp controlled (°70F) battery testing station (custom made) and being recharged independently through fixed voltage, variable current chargers in the same environment.
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Old 08-17-2013, 04:40 PM   #29
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I have always bought Interstate batteries for my replacements and here's why. In every little tiny town everywhere there is a place that sells Interstate batteries and any of them will replace them no question asked. It has only happened to me once in the middle of no where. EVERY battery manufacturer has had some batteries with bad cells.
Interstate is the least hassle battery you can buy.
I had to buy the Interstate when mine failed recently in the boonies. It was not my first thought or choice but choices were Interstate or nothing. Your remark coincides with what the local guy stated..in every tiny little town...
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Old 08-17-2013, 08:44 PM   #30
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I'm surprised so many 2012's are going bad. Thanks to corvallis I'll know whats the best picks.


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