2012 Pentastar Wrangler Break-in Proceedures? - Jeep Wrangler Forum
Jeep Wrangler Forum

Go Back   Jeep Wrangler Forum > JK Jeep Wrangler Forum > JK General Discussion Forum

Join Wrangler Forum Today


Reply
 
Thread Tools

Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about them on WranglerForum.com
Old 07-10-2011, 11:17 AM   #1
..shall not be infringed!

WF Supporting Member
 
Up Hill Bill's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Up the hill, CA Northcoast
Posts: 4,638
2012 Pentastar Wrangler Break-in Proceedures?

We are privileged to have have among us, a bona fide inside expert on the Pentastar engine, who is also buying a 2012 Ribicon!

With this thread, I am hoping to invite Mr. rlast to take the podium and educate us as to how he plans to break-in his new Pentastar.

Professor, if you would....

Please!


(how's that Tom?)

__________________
2012 JKU Rubicon
Sahara Tan
Auto
3.73


Up Hill Bill
Up Hill Bill is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 07-10-2011, 11:47 AM   #2
Jeeper
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 175
I thought the newer engines these days don't quite require a break-in period; they're already kinda broken-in at the factory. I haven't paid any special attention to it the last three new cars that I got. But I'd be interested to hear any specific needs/advice for the Pentastar.

lokka is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 07-10-2011, 11:47 AM   #3
Jeeper

WF Supporting Member
 
rlast's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Lake Orion, MI
Posts: 523
Images: 4
Quote:
Originally Posted by Up Hill Bill View Post
We are privileged to have have among us, a bona fide inside expert on the Pentastar engine, who is also buying a 2012 Ribicon!

With this thread, I am hoping to invite Mr. rlast to take the podium and educate us as to how he plans to break-in his new Pentastar.

Professor, if you would....

Please!


(how's that Tom?)
Modern engines are less sensitive to break-in than in the old days. However, I still do it, just because I'm an old dog and I'm still more comfortable making sure my rings seat properly. So... that said... I will avoid any extended freeway driving for the first 500 miles. I will keep my driving to city streets and intracity routes so I can get a lot of accels and decels between 0 and 50 mph. I'll do that for about 200 - 250 miles. Then I'll extend my driving to intracity routes, where I can travel on a surface street at speeds up to 55 or 60 mph, but still vary speed up and down a little. After about 400 miles or so, I'll take it out on the freeway for some short spurts at 70 or 75 mph. Then, I'll change the oil and filter, and I should be good to go. I would use factory oil for the break-in period, but after that, I really like the synthetic blends. The one thing you absolutely do not want to do: extended operation at a single speed -- that's never good for a new engine.

Caveat: This is just what I do. It's not a factory recommendation.
__________________
2012 JK Rubicon,3.6L Pentastar, 6-Speed Man.
Deep Cherry Red Crystal Pearl Coat
Katzkin Deluxe 2-tone leather seats
Connectivity Group, RHR Media Center 730N
Black Freedom Top, AHT Trailer Tow Group
2005 TJ, 4.0L, 5-speed Manual
rlast is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 07-10-2011, 11:56 AM   #4
..shall not be infringed!

WF Supporting Member
 
Up Hill Bill's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Up the hill, CA Northcoast
Posts: 4,638
Quote:
Originally Posted by rlast View Post

Caveat: This is just what I do. It's not a factory recommendation.
Thank you, sir! Copied and pasted to a Word document for reference. I will adjust my usual, similar, old timey-methods per your advice!
__________________
2012 JKU Rubicon
Sahara Tan
Auto
3.73


Up Hill Bill
Up Hill Bill is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 07-10-2011, 11:58 AM   #5
Jeeper
 
JeeperJake's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 2,909
"photos or it didn't happen"
__________________
get in--buckle up--hang on
"soothing agricultural implement/personal servant/Walter Mitty multidimensional access utility device conveniently travels on pavement when necessary and often keeps me warm/cool/dry/soothed as needed."
JeeperJake is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 07-10-2011, 11:59 AM   #6
Jeeper
 
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 2,469
I agree with rlast. I try and change the factory oil out early, there is always additional wear metal, and metal from machining the engine no matter how good the process is. Just view a UOA report from a new engine. So I would change the oil at 500 miles, then again at 2000 miles, then at 5000 miles and make the change to a good synthetic oil and call it a day.

If things do work out and I get a 2012 Rubi I might dump the factory oil as soon as I get home, then at 1000 miles, 2000 miles, and at 5K change to synthetic oil. The reason I wait until 5000 miles is not because synthetic oil is too slippery, or hinders break in. It's because I change the oil early to get the junk out, no point in using synthetic oil for that. JMO

I'd also do an early transmission fluid and filter change, even though Chrysler doesn't suggest it. They shed wear metals too.
demarpaint is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 07-10-2011, 12:07 PM   #7
Jeeper

WF Supporting Member
 
rlast's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Lake Orion, MI
Posts: 523
Images: 4
Quote:
Originally Posted by demarpaint View Post
I agree with rlast. I try and change the factory oil out early, there is always additional wear metal, and metal from machining the engine no matter how good the process is. Just view a UOA report from a new engine. So I would change the oil at 500 miles, then again at 2000 miles, then at 5000 miles and make the change to a good synthetic oil and call it a day.

If things do work out and I get a 2012 Rubi I might dump the factory oil as soon as I get home, then at 1000 miles, 2000 miles, and at 5K change to synthetic oil. The reason I wait until 5000 miles is not because synthetic oil is too slippery, or hinders break in. It's because I change the oil early to get the junk out, no point in using synthetic oil for that. JMO

I'd also do an early transmission fluid and filter change, even though Chrysler doesn't suggest it. They shed wear metals too.
Yeah, about the transmission. Got me a 6-speed manual, but good luck with that!! Agreed on not changing to synthetic too early. It's a waste of money to do that. Just remember to change the filter *each* time for the early oil changes. Don't listen to any mechanic. Just tell them do to it. You'll never get penalized for too many oil changes (except for the cost, that is). I think 500, 1000, 2000, 5000 might be a wee-bit extreme, but what the hay! Your engine will be happy, but your pocket book will be thinner. If you have the cash or the garage and know-how (and a environmentally friendly place for the old oil!!!!), go for it.
__________________
2012 JK Rubicon,3.6L Pentastar, 6-Speed Man.
Deep Cherry Red Crystal Pearl Coat
Katzkin Deluxe 2-tone leather seats
Connectivity Group, RHR Media Center 730N
Black Freedom Top, AHT Trailer Tow Group
2005 TJ, 4.0L, 5-speed Manual
rlast is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 07-10-2011, 12:16 PM   #8
Jeeper
 
Osage Orange's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Lewistown IL
Posts: 591
Quote:
Originally Posted by rlast View Post
The one thing you absolutely do not want to do: extended operation at a single speed -- that's never good for a new engine.
In other words, no cruise control until you break in the engine. Your foot causes natural variances in throttle position. We just went through a break in period with our VW TDI. Just trying to help
__________________

2012 Wrangler Sport 2 Door
3.6L, 6 Spd Manual, 3.73 gears, ACE Rock Rails, Maximus-3 Bumper Bar, KC HiLiTES 124 SlimLites, AEV 2" spacer lift, Duratrac 285/70R17s, 17x9 XD Addicts, AEV ProCal, 35% window tint, AntennaX.
Osage Orange is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 07-10-2011, 12:29 PM   #9
Jeeper
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 160
I agree with everyone's comments and would also add that I worked in a race engine shop for many years... One thing I walked away with is, Do Not use Synthetic too early on. It works 'too well' and doesn't allow the engine to really "break"-in, as in wear and seat the rings nicely. Conventional oil does a nice job of being slippery, but not too slippery. Just my two cents.

-Rich
Rich331MX is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 07-10-2011, 12:36 PM   #10
Jeeper

WF Supporting Member
 
CombatChuk's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Highlands Ranch, CO
Posts: 370
Quote:
Originally Posted by Osage Orange View Post
In other words, no cruise control until you break in the engine. Your foot causes natural variances in throttle position. We just went through a break in period with our VW TDI. Just trying to help
Ah a fellow TDI owner, my Wife's '06 TDI Jetta has been a solid car. Only thing I had to replace was a faulty glow plug (still started though)
__________________
'12 Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon
COSMOS BLUE
6-Speed Manual
Dual Top Group
Max Tow
Connectivity Group/Front Side Airbags
CombatChuk is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 07-10-2011, 01:02 PM   #11
Jeeper
 
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 2,469
Quote:
Originally Posted by rlast View Post
Yeah, about the transmission. Got me a 6-speed manual, but good luck with that!! Agreed on not changing to synthetic too early. It's a waste of money to do that. Just remember to change the filter *each* time for the early oil changes. Don't listen to any mechanic. Just tell them do to it. You'll never get penalized for too many oil changes (except for the cost, that is). I think 500, 1000, 2000, 5000 might be a wee-bit extreme, but what the hay! Your engine will be happy, but your pocket book will be thinner. If you have the cash or the garage and know-how (and a environmentally friendly place for the old oil!!!!), go for it.

Overkill, you're probably right! LOL. At least you didn't say leave the factory fill in until the OLM tells you to change the oil, or until the first scheduled oil change. I've seen UOA reports from new engines, and all the excess wear metals, I want that junk out early. I think the filter could stay till the 2000 mile mark, some say they filter a little better when they're loaded up a bit. I usually put a magnet on the oil filter as well, although I never owned anything with a cartridge filter.

As far as the environment that oil will either go to a recycle center, or be filtered and used as top up oil in my 200,000 mile, oil using Aerostar.
demarpaint is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 07-10-2011, 01:36 PM   #12
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Canton, MI
Posts: 487
Quote:
Originally Posted by Up Hill Bill
We are privileged to have have among us, a bona fide inside expert on the Pentastar engine, who is also buying a 2012 Rubicon!
You mean Wrangler2012 will be joining us?

Ok, looking for comments on my situation:

I live off of US 12 just south of Detroit and will be buying my 12 JKU Rubi from Pat in Northfield, IL.

280 mile drive home.

US 12 happens to run through Chicago as well. It's pretty much a route through Chicagoland and down through northwestern Indiana before settling into a 2-lane 55mph stop-and-go through little rural farm towns across southern Michigan.

Sound like a good break-in drive home?

Also, if I missed any prior discussion on it, my bad. But what about differential oil changes?
AgtSunshine is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 07-10-2011, 01:56 PM   #13
Jeeper
 
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 2,469
^^ Just vary your speed. If you have a stick do a little engine breaking to help seat the rings. Please note I didn't say to do some hairy down shifting. An AT can be shifted out of OD to help vary engine speed as well. I broke my new vehicles in late at night or early in the morning.
demarpaint is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 07-10-2011, 02:01 PM   #14
Jeeper

WF Supporting Member
 
sandbaja's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: San Diego, CA.
Posts: 944
Why is non synthetic oil recommended?

"Traditional, non-synthetic motor oil with an ILSAC standard of GF5 is recommended. "
__________________
2012 JKU Rubicon -Natural green pearlcoat

Nvergiveup
sandbaja is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 07-10-2011, 02:22 PM   #15
Jeeper
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 81
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rich331MX View Post
I agree with everyone's comments and would also add that I worked in a race engine shop for many years... One thing I walked away with is, Do Not use Synthetic too early on. It works 'too well' and doesn't allow the engine to really "break"-in, as in wear and seat the rings nicely. Conventional oil does a nice job of being slippery, but not too slippery. Just my two cents.

-Rich
So, if your experience in a race shop taught you that synthetic oil should not be used during a break in period, why do all those fabulous engines from the Germans (Porsche, BMW, Audi, Mercedes) use nothing but synthetic from day one. I've had several BMWs and they came from the factory with synthetic and specify Castrol synthetic as the recommended oil during changes. I used syntheitc from day one in my BMWs, followed no specific break in regiment, and the engines all ran like tops and never burned a drop of oil. I had plenty of other things break on my BMWs, but never had an oil related issue.
redsoxx1918 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 07-10-2011, 02:57 PM   #16
Jeeper
 
Osage Orange's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Lewistown IL
Posts: 591
Oil Analysis

If you really want to get down and dirty with your new engines you could have oil analysis performed on them. This would give you a detailed printout of whats going on internally with your engine. Heres one example of a lab that performs this service: Blackstone Labs
__________________

2012 Wrangler Sport 2 Door
3.6L, 6 Spd Manual, 3.73 gears, ACE Rock Rails, Maximus-3 Bumper Bar, KC HiLiTES 124 SlimLites, AEV 2" spacer lift, Duratrac 285/70R17s, 17x9 XD Addicts, AEV ProCal, 35% window tint, AntennaX.
Osage Orange is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 07-10-2011, 02:59 PM   #17
Supporting Member

WF Supporting Member
 
SilverSport's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 22,189
Send a message via Yahoo to SilverSport
The 500 mile break-in period isn't just for the engine. While owners manuals seldom mention it, this is also a 'break in' time for the differentials.
__________________
"Own a Jeep and own a piece of history."

"The Hunter is not concerned with the opinion of the Wolf."
SilverSport is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 07-10-2011, 02:59 PM   #18
Jeeper
 
Osage Orange's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Lewistown IL
Posts: 591
Quote:
Originally Posted by CombatChuk View Post
Ah a fellow TDI owner, my Wife's '06 TDI Jetta has been a solid car. Only thing I had to replace was a faulty glow plug (still started though)
They are nice "Got 50 MPG?" as they say
__________________

2012 Wrangler Sport 2 Door
3.6L, 6 Spd Manual, 3.73 gears, ACE Rock Rails, Maximus-3 Bumper Bar, KC HiLiTES 124 SlimLites, AEV 2" spacer lift, Duratrac 285/70R17s, 17x9 XD Addicts, AEV ProCal, 35% window tint, AntennaX.
Osage Orange is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 07-10-2011, 03:06 PM   #19
Jeeper
 
Osage Orange's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Lewistown IL
Posts: 591
Quote:
Originally Posted by SilverRubi View Post
The 500 mile break-in period isn't just for the engine. While owners manuals seldom mention it, this is also a 'break in' time for the differentials.
Touché good sir.
__________________

2012 Wrangler Sport 2 Door
3.6L, 6 Spd Manual, 3.73 gears, ACE Rock Rails, Maximus-3 Bumper Bar, KC HiLiTES 124 SlimLites, AEV 2" spacer lift, Duratrac 285/70R17s, 17x9 XD Addicts, AEV ProCal, 35% window tint, AntennaX.
Osage Orange is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 07-10-2011, 03:39 PM   #20
..shall not be infringed!

WF Supporting Member
 
Up Hill Bill's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Up the hill, CA Northcoast
Posts: 4,638
Quote:
Originally Posted by AgtSunshine View Post
You mean Wrangler2012 will be joining us?
...And Robert Stevens could tell us how he broke in VEX. Didn't VEX go 1.5 million miles or something!
__________________
2012 JKU Rubicon
Sahara Tan
Auto
3.73


Up Hill Bill
Up Hill Bill is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 07-10-2011, 06:06 PM   #21
Jeeper
 
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 2,469
Quote:
Originally Posted by sandbaja View Post
Why is non synthetic oil recommended?

"Traditional, non-synthetic motor oil with an ILSAC standard of GF5 is recommended. "
You can use dino oil, a blend, or full synthetic from day one, as long as it meets Chrysler's specs for the engine. The reason I don't use synthetic until 5000 miles is because of the short intervals I run to get the excess metals from mfg, and break in wear out of the engine. Some engines come factory filled with synthetic oil.
demarpaint is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 07-10-2011, 06:47 PM   #22
Jeeper

WF Supporting Member
 
sandbaja's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: San Diego, CA.
Posts: 944
Quote:
Originally Posted by demarpaint View Post
You can use dino oil, a blend, or full synthetic from day one, as long as it meets Chrysler's specs for the engine. The reason I don't use synthetic until 5000 miles is because of the short intervals I run to get the excess metals from mfg, and break in wear out of the engine. Some engines come factory filled with synthetic oil.
IMO if the manufacturer believed synth oil would increase longevity and performance they should state so. I've run synth on my Hemi since about 5K miles but only because I bought into the hype that synth is better. Now they have full synth and partial synth which is much less expensive.

My point is the manufacturers should recommend it or state it is not recommended. In this day and age traditional oil changes are a heck of a lot cheaper than synth partial and synth full.
__________________
2012 JKU Rubicon -Natural green pearlcoat

Nvergiveup
sandbaja is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 07-10-2011, 06:53 PM   #23
kik
Jeeper
 
kik's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 4,833
Images: 1
Quote:
Originally Posted by redsoxx1918 View Post
So, if your experience in a race shop taught you that synthetic oil should not be used during a break in period, why do all those fabulous engines from the Germans (Porsche, BMW, Audi, Mercedes) use nothing but synthetic from day one. I've had several BMWs and they came from the factory with synthetic and specify Castrol synthetic as the recommended oil during changes. I used syntheitc from day one in my BMWs, followed no specific break in regiment, and the engines all ran like tops and never burned a drop of oil. I had plenty of other things break on my BMWs, but never had an oil related issue.
We had an M3 and the engine was great. We also have a Mini Cooper (BMW) and that also comes with synthetic from the factory and, like the vehicles you mentioned, you have to use full synthetic and they won't burn oil. But there you have it, the 3.8 is not like one of those engines and the 3.6 won't be either. There really is no comparison unfortunately. The tolerances just aren't there that's why it's better to use the recommended weight non synthetic for at least the first 3,000 miles after the break in period. I also agree with what was said regarding the break in with these engines and did regular oil changes at 1,500,3000 and 3,000 or at least twice a year after that. I'm not looking to do a what's better to do oil thread here just giving one opinion after having performance vehicles and not so much performance vehicles. The one thing I don't do is listen to a computer logarithm to tell me when to do what and when.
kik is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 07-10-2011, 07:56 PM   #24
Jeeper
 
Djstorm100's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Raleigh NC
Posts: 757
You have to think, you aren't just breaking in the motor but the whole drive train.

The key to driving at different mph is to vary the RPM's. This greats different amounts of load on the system as a whole therefore wearing a pattern in to the metals/ surfaces and etc. Pretty must seating everything.
Djstorm100 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 07-10-2011, 10:23 PM   #25
Jeeper
 
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 2,469
Quote:
Originally Posted by sandbaja View Post
IMO if the manufacturer believed synth oil would increase longevity and performance they should state so. I've run synth on my Hemi since about 5K miles but only because I bought into the hype that synth is better. Now they have full synth and partial synth which is much less expensive.

My point is the manufacturers should recommend it or state it is not recommended. In this day and age traditional oil changes are a heck of a lot cheaper than synth partial and synth full.


No argument here. Keep in mind dino oils of today are very good. Also car makers want to keep the cost of ownership down, so many don't recommend synthetic oil because of cost. Where synthetic oils shine is for extending oil change intervals, extreme heat, extreme cold, and better oil flow during those extremes. Honestly if you do regular oil and filter changes with mfg approved dino oil, the vehicle will either rot out, get stolen, or be totaled before the engine fails because of an oil related issue. JMO
demarpaint is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 07-10-2011, 10:26 PM   #26
Jeeper

WF Supporting Member
 
rlast's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Lake Orion, MI
Posts: 523
Images: 4
I think we're all over-analyzing this. I agree with demarpaint that, as long as the oil meets the manufacturer's spec, you'll be OK. My only reason for using good old fashioned oil for the first few oil changes is that it's a lot cheaper and you're not (or shouldn't be) running the oil for a full oil change interval. So it's a waste of money to use synthetic oil early on. Synthetics are particularly good in situations where you put the engine routinely through heavy duty-cycles. For example, if you tow a lot or if you wheel a lot, the synthetic oil doesn't break down as much when it gets over-heated. For that reason, a lot of the imported vehicles, like BMW's, Porsche's, Audi's and other so-called high performance vehicles and some heavy-duty pickup trucks are well-suited to synthetics because it is superior in that kind of environment. Also, if you have a high compression engine or, more importantly, a turbocharged engine (where oil frequently comes into contact with very hot surfaces on the turbine side of the turbo, synthetic oils are a natural call. For a Jeep, I don't think it's ever a problem to run regular oil. Much more important is that you don't miss oil changes and, as Kik rightly pointed out, that you "listen" to your engine and don't blindly follow the computer that tells you that you have 3,000 more miles before you need to change the oil, when you've been running the piss out of it.

For me, running synthetic blends after break-in is just my way of protecting my investment.
__________________
2012 JK Rubicon,3.6L Pentastar, 6-Speed Man.
Deep Cherry Red Crystal Pearl Coat
Katzkin Deluxe 2-tone leather seats
Connectivity Group, RHR Media Center 730N
Black Freedom Top, AHT Trailer Tow Group
2005 TJ, 4.0L, 5-speed Manual
rlast is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 07-10-2011, 11:14 PM   #27
Statler & Waldorf Show

WF Supporting Member
 
Mykll's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Davidian Bunker
Posts: 835
Send a message via AIM to Mykll Send a message via Yahoo to Mykll
Quote:
Originally Posted by rlast View Post
Modern engines are less sensitive to break-in than in the old days. However, I still do it, just because I'm an old dog and I'm still more comfortable making sure my rings seat properly. So... that said... I will avoid any extended freeway driving for the first 500 miles. I will keep my driving to city streets and intracity routes so I can get a lot of accels and decels between 0 and 50 mph. I'll do that for about 200 - 250 miles. Then I'll extend my driving to intracity routes, where I can travel on a surface street at speeds up to 55 or 60 mph, but still vary speed up and down a little. After about 400 miles or so, I'll take it out on the freeway for some short spurts at 70 or 75 mph. Then, I'll change the oil and filter, and I should be good to go. I would use factory oil for the break-in period, but after that, I really like the synthetic blends. The one thing you absolutely do not want to do: extended operation at a single speed -- that's never good for a new engine.

Caveat: This is just what I do. It's not a factory recommendation.
I am guessing that the high speeds has something to do with not wanting to over-rev the engine during the break in, right? Only new vehicle I have ever bought is my BMW F800ST motorcycle. It had dealer break in instructions, but it was more "don't go over this RPM for X miles, then next set increase but don't go over this RPM, etc" than it was about speed. Of course, with less RPM, obviously going slower.

Anyway, asking, because during break in, do you find yourself shifting sooner than you normally would, so that you don't hit higher RPMs yet?
Mykll is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 07-10-2011, 11:23 PM   #28
Jeeper

WF Supporting Member
 
rlast's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Lake Orion, MI
Posts: 523
Images: 4
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mykll View Post
I am guessing that the high speeds has something to do with not wanting to over-rev the engine during the break in, right? Only new vehicle I have ever bought is my BMW F800ST motorcycle. It had dealer break in instructions, but it was more "don't go over this RPM for X miles, then next set increase but don't go over this RPM, etc" than it was about speed. Of course, with less RPM, obviously going slower.

Anyway, asking, because during break in, do you find yourself shifting sooner than you normally would, so that you don't hit higher RPMs yet?
I think varying speeds is more important that what speeds you operate at (unless, of course, you're planning to run up to 6k). I shift at lower speeds whenever possible because I don't like buying gas any more than I have to.

The bike is a different animal entirely. They are high-revving, high-performance engines. Break-in is much more important in that application.
__________________
2012 JK Rubicon,3.6L Pentastar, 6-Speed Man.
Deep Cherry Red Crystal Pearl Coat
Katzkin Deluxe 2-tone leather seats
Connectivity Group, RHR Media Center 730N
Black Freedom Top, AHT Trailer Tow Group
2005 TJ, 4.0L, 5-speed Manual
rlast is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 07-10-2011, 11:40 PM   #29
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 764
Quote:
Originally Posted by demarpaint View Post
I agree with rlast. I try and change the factory oil out early, there is always additional wear metal, and metal from machining the engine no matter how good the process is. Just view a UOA report from a new engine. So I would change the oil at 500 miles, then again at 2000 miles, then at 5000 miles and make the change to a good synthetic oil and call it a day.

If things do work out and I get a 2012 Rubi I might dump the factory oil as soon as I get home, then at 1000 miles, 2000 miles, and at 5K change to synthetic oil. The reason I wait until 5000 miles is not because synthetic oil is too slippery, or hinders break in. It's because I change the oil early to get the junk out, no point in using synthetic oil for that. JMO

I'd also do an early transmission fluid and filter change, even though Chrysler doesn't suggest it. They shed wear metals too.
Total BS as all cadilacs and corvettes come factory filled with mobil 1.
KSCRUDE is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 07-11-2011, 12:31 AM   #30
Jeeper
 
leadZERO's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Lyons, CO
Posts: 80
Quote:
Originally Posted by rlast View Post
I will avoid any extended freeway driving for the first 500 miles.
Uhhh.... So, then... Have I condemned myself to early engine death by driving my brand new 2011 Rubi from Long Island, NY to Minneapolis, MN?

Ryan

leadZERO is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Jeep Wrangler Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.



Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
2012 COD Wrangler? MookieBlaylock JK General Discussion Forum 8 08-29-2011 03:26 PM
Nearly 400 WHP from 3.6 Pentastar in Wrangler? El Gringo JK General Discussion Forum 60 06-09-2011 11:47 PM
Fellow Ohio Jeepers Help fick15 Ohio Jeep Forum 11 01-19-2010 11:56 PM
Break in period for a Wrangler 4.0? tigertribe TJ General Discussion Forum 11 07-12-2006 08:23 AM



Download our Mobile App

» Network Links
»Jeep Parts
» Featured Product

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 08:33 AM.



Jeep®, Wrangler, Liberty, Wagoneer, Cherokee, and Grand Cherokee are copyrighted and trademarked to Chrysler Motors LLC.
Wranglerforum.com is not in any way associated with the Chrysler Motors LLC