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Old 10-21-2011, 11:27 AM   #1
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2012 torque specs

Anyone know where I can find torque specs for the 2012 JKU? I typed "2012 torque specs" into the search field, tried threads and posts, and didn't see anything.

I've got a ton of stuff in my garage to install soon as my 2012 arrives.

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Old 10-21-2011, 11:28 AM   #2
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Old 10-21-2011, 11:31 AM   #3
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Originally Posted by Up Hill Bill View Post

I saw that, but didn't know if it applied to the 2012's, with the new engine and all.

Is my mechanical stupidity showing?
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Old 10-21-2011, 11:39 AM   #4
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It's good for everything except the 3.6L and the auto tranny. I didn't think you'd be doing any mods to those!!!
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Old 10-21-2011, 11:46 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by Up Hill Bill View Post
It's good for everything except the 3.6L and the auto tranny. I didn't think you'd be doing any mods to those!!!

I'm not. But I don't know diddly about vehicle mechanics.

Yet.

I used to build highrises, bridges, stadiums, etc...most of my tools have to do with forcing things to go where you want them to go, or saving you from splatting on the pavement 20-stories below. (Hey, that rhymes.)

Anyway, I kinda figured the torque specs would be the same (except engine and auto trans), but didn't know.

Better to ask, than to see my control arms in the rearview mirror at 70mph.

Thanks for the info.
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Old 10-21-2011, 11:49 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by kbwwolf View Post
I'm not. But I don't know diddly about vehicle mechanics.

Yet.

I used to build highrises, bridges, stadiums, etc...most of my tools have to do with forcing things to go where you want them to go, or saving you from splatting on the pavement 20-stories below. (Hey, that rhymes.)

...

Thanks for the info.
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you've got an electrical problem.....
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Old 10-21-2011, 11:55 AM   #7
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....And, always carry your red-neck tool kit in your Jeep:

Duct tape and WD-40.

If it moves, but shouldn't - duct tape
If it should move but doesn't - WD-40
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Old 10-21-2011, 11:56 AM   #8
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Torque specs are easy to figure out. Tighten the first fastener of any given type until it snaps. Then replace it. Then tighten it until you're scared. Repeat step 3 for all fasteners of this type. Do the entire process again for all additional fastener types and sizes.
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Old 10-21-2011, 11:58 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by oilwell1415 View Post
Torque specs are easy to figure out. Tighten the first fastener of any given type until it snaps. Then replace it. Then tighten it until you're scared. Repeat step 3 for all fasteners of this type. Do the entire process again for all additional fastener types and sizes.

lol. Sounds expensive.
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Old 10-21-2011, 12:07 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by oilwell1415 View Post
Torque specs are easy to figure out. Tighten the first fastener of any given type until it snaps. Then replace it. Then tighten it until you're scared. Repeat step 3 for all fasteners of this type. Do the entire process again for all additional fastener types and sizes.
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Old 10-21-2011, 12:10 PM   #11
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lol. Sounds expensive.
Expensive lessons are the best learned. Start with small fasteners that don't do anything important. Hopefully by the time you get to the large meaningful ones you will have a good feel for how far you can go.
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Old 10-21-2011, 12:22 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by oilwell1415 View Post
Expensive lessons are the best learned. Start with small fasteners that don't do anything important. Hopefully by the time you get to the large meaningful ones you will have a good feel for how far you can go.

What's a good torque wrench to buy? Just looked on Amazon, and the selection is pretty baffling.

Just want something reliable.

Maybe that can stand up to being thrown across my garage if I get frustrated. Kidding.
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Old 10-21-2011, 12:23 PM   #13
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You can get one at HF with a coupon for $9.99.
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Old 10-21-2011, 12:29 PM   #14
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^^^ this!

"Good" ones can get really expensive, and close is good enough for what most of us do in a home shop.
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Old 10-21-2011, 12:32 PM   #15
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You can get one at HF with a coupon for $9.99.

Cool. There's a Harbor Freight about 6 miles from my house. First stop when I get home.

Thanks.
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Old 10-21-2011, 12:32 PM   #16
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What's a good torque wrench to buy? Just looked on Amazon, and the selection is pretty baffling.

Just want something reliable.

Maybe that can stand up to being thrown across my garage if I get frustrated. Kidding.
The three I use for things that have to be dead on are from Snap On. The one I use for wheels is a Craftsman. Everything else gets the method I listed above, but I don't snap bolts much any more. I've learned the limit pretty well over the years.

If I'm remember your list of stuff to install correctly from the other thread I would look at something from Craftsman because they have a good warranty and will be fairly accurate. If you have a problem you can also walk into Sears and get another one. That can't be said for the truck brands or discount stores that can be hard to find or aren't open. The biggest benefit of getting one off the truck is that they can be recalibrated if they become in accurate for whatever reason. Few of the cheaper ones can be recalibrated. I've never seen one that needed a recal unless it was abused, but it's nice to know that my expensive Snap On torque wrenches aren't junk if something happens to them.
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Old 10-21-2011, 12:44 PM   #17
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No doubt the quality and reliability is there with Craftsman and Snap on. However HF has the same lifetime tool guarantee. I bought both a 3/8 drive for smaller stuff and the 1/2" drive for my lugs.

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Old 10-21-2011, 12:54 PM   #18
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Have you ever had to return anything to HF? I tried to return a spring compressor there years ago. It basically folded in half when I tried to compress the spring. To return it I had to fill out a form and send it in for review before they would take it back. Probably took 6 months for them to tell me they wouldn't take it back because I had obviously tried to use it on a spring that was too heavy. The spring was from a 1984 Buick Skyhawk and was the only spring I ever tried to use it on. If that spring was too heavy I'm not sure what they would consider acceptable. I still buy from HF occasionally, but I go into it with the attitude that I'll just throw the tool away if it breaks.
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Old 10-21-2011, 01:04 PM   #19
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I still buy from HF occasionally, but I go into it with the attitude that I'll just throw the tool away if it breaks.
^This...

I'd rather have a $50 "accurate" wrench collecting dust for a little while until I need it again, then a $15 one that breaks after the first few uses.
Add in the cost of fuel to get back and forth to a HF for a replacement, the headache that goes along with finding a friend to take you there when you need it, and the migrane inducing trauma that goes along with dealing with the less than helpy-helpers that work there (Swear to Zod, the people that work in HF are one step below the idiots that work in Home Depot/Lowes that shouldn't be giving directions to where stuff is in the store, much less directions on how to use what you're looking for properly...) and it's nearly a no brainer.

This doesn't apply to stuff you really ARE going to only use once. HF is great for that kind of crap. But a good, accurate torque wrench, you're gonna find uses for all the time especially if you find yourself bounding all over hells half acre.
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Old 10-21-2011, 01:24 PM   #20
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Have you ever had to return anything to HF? I tried to return a spring compressor there years ago. It basically folded in half when I tried to compress the spring. To return it I had to fill out a form and send it in for review before they would take it back. Probably took 6 months for them to tell me they wouldn't take it back because I had obviously tried to use it on a spring that was too heavy. The spring was from a 1984 Buick Skyhawk and was the only spring I ever tried to use it on. If that spring was too heavy I'm not sure what they would consider acceptable. I still buy from HF occasionally, but I go into it with the attitude that I'll just throw the tool away if it breaks.
I bought a rivet gun that broke on the second rivet. I took it back for a refund with no questions asked. I bought a more expensive one at Lowes.

The second time I bought a tool cabinet at what I thought was a great price of $139. A week later my new JP Magazine arrived with a coupon for the same tool cabinet for $99. I found the faded torn receipt and went back expecting a battle. i barely began my explanation when they asked if I had a coupon for less. I gave it to them, filled out my name and address and they handed me the $40.
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Old 10-21-2011, 01:54 PM   #21
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I'm glad you've had good luck with them. I didn't know if it was their company policy or a local thing. I will still buy with caution.
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Old 10-21-2011, 02:03 PM   #22
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Originally, I planned on having most of my mods done at a local auto shop. But after thinking on it awhile I decided I'd rather learn how to do it myself, even though my automotive wrenching experience consists of pulling the battery out of my motorcycle in winter, changing the occasional tire, etc.

Plus I'll enjoy the Wrangler experience more if my blood and sweat is in the bolt threads.

Anyway, I'll probably buy a shorter-handled cheap torque wrench at HF, for smaller stuff and tight spaces.

You're right, though, oilwell, I'd rather get something more precise AND reliable for stuff like the lift kit, bumpers, wheels, etc.

I'm kind've a tool hound, anyway. I mean, I've still got wall hooks and shit from my construction days, and I haven't walked into an unfinished high rise in almost 20 years.

Hardware stores and camera stores – guaranteed to lighten my wallet considerably.
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Old 10-21-2011, 02:05 PM   #23
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You might find you'll need a couple of torque wrenches. What works for smaller bolts (like those that hold injectors in) aren't big enough to tackle suspension bolts. Craftsman makes reasonably priced torque wrenches. Stop by Sears and you'll see the torque range they operate in.
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Old 10-21-2011, 02:29 PM   #24
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I have a husky torque wrench that I bought at home depot about 5 years ago. Its big and heavy but strong like an ox. Ive beat it and put it through the paces and it still works every time and is very accurate. It did cost $90 but it was worth it.
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Old 10-21-2011, 02:30 PM   #25
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Yes, you will definitely need/want more than one. As I said, I have 3 from Snap On. The smallest is 1/4" drive and does inch-pounds. I don't recall the exact range off the top of my head, but I believe it is something like 20-100 in-lbs. The next one is a 3/8" drive that goes from 5-75 ft-lbs. The 1/2" one goes from 50-250 ft-lbs. You want a lot of overlap from one to another because they are the most accurate near the center of their range. The 3/8 drive gets used the most because it has the widest range. It was also the most expensive because of the range. I think it was about $300. The other two were around $225-250 each. I have never regretted the purchase. When they go click I know for a fact I've got the torque I'm looking for.

Speaking of going click, there are also three main types of torque wrench. Click type are the most common, but they are also the most commonly misused. Some people easily develop a feel for them, others struggle. There are also dial type and beam type. I have always like the dial type for a few reasons. First, you don't have to adjust them to the torque you want. You just pull until it reads the desired number and quit pulling. Same with the beam type, but they tend to not be as accurate and repeatable.
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Old 10-21-2011, 02:56 PM   #26
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Speaking of going click, there are also three main types of torque wrench. Click type are the most common, but they are also the most commonly misused.
How are they misused? My understanding is that when the wrench reaches the set amount of torque, it clicks.

Of course, my only experience w/a torque wrench is from watching my dad wrench on his 'vette at Norfolk Naval Air Station when I was a munchkin.


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I have always like the dial type for a few reasons. First, you don't have to adjust them to the torque you want. You just pull until it reads the desired number and quit pulling.

So the dial type, because of its repeatable accuracy, would be better for the more important jobs, like suspension, driveshafts, etc?
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Old 10-21-2011, 03:12 PM   #27
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How are they misused? My understanding is that when the wrench reaches the set amount of torque, it clicks.

Of course, my only experience w/a torque wrench is from watching my dad wrench on his 'vette at Norfolk Naval Air Station when I was a munchkin.
That is correct, but people somehow mess it up. If you go too fast it's really easy to go past the required torque because you can't stop pulling fast enough. This is less of a problem at high torques because you aren't going as fast anyway. People also forget to reset them to zero before storing them and that can mess them up. If you are close to the required torque and jerk the wrench a little it can click early. Just a matter of taking the time to do it right for the most part. That is a struggle for many people.

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So the dial type, because of its repeatable accuracy, would be better for the more important jobs, like suspension, driveshafts, etc?
I should clarify that a little bit. All three styles are equally accurate for all practical purposes. The dial type is the easiest to get consistent results out of for a new user. The downside to the dial and beam types is that they are larger and don't fit in places as easily. They also don't typically have a ratchet head which makes them a little painful to use with long bolts where sneaking up on the torque may take a few turns.
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Old 10-21-2011, 03:21 PM   #28
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Great info. Thanks, man.

Now all I need is my Jeep so I can start shearing off bolts.
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Old 10-21-2011, 06:17 PM   #29
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I am far from a mechanic.....I teach school and am near retirement. My initial job was repair on TVs and VCRs. You should see the measuring instrumentation for things like torque for small machines like VCRs. I now do computer repair and networking with very little mechanical details turning wrenches or nut drivers.

Over the years I've collected various tools. My first set of wrenches and sockets were Craftsman. Recently with the purchase of a 92 YJ, my wrench turning has returned in a big way. I've updated all of my wrenches to six sided and sockets too. All Craftsman. When I had to take the yolk off of the transfer case front output, and knew that the torque necessary would no doubt break my 1/2" drive, I took the opportunity to go out and buy my first ever 3/4 in drive socket SET. Of course it was a Craftsman. THAT is definitely a MAN tool. I could barely maneuver it into the places that it had to go to crank on the yolk. I had to apply a lot of torque to "break" it loose. Based on the torque applied I am convinced that I made the right choice to purchase the 3/4" drive set.

I purchase Craftsman because it is a middle of the road tool seller that provides an excellent warranty that I never have to worry about. I finally brought my "limping" 1/2" drive to Sears about a month ago and they exchanged it....absolutely no questions asked. If I were a mechanic working using the tools constantly and in the beginning of my career, I would most likely purchase Snap-on.

Ten years ago I purchased a 1/2" drive torque wrench for about $20.00 from Harbor Freight. I've put that through it paces ever since. Just recently after I got the 3/4" drive from Sears that nearly burned a hole in my wallet, I needed a 3/4 torque drive to put things back together. Since I use this type of tool so seldom I got one at Harbor Freight and got their 1/4" drive torque wrench while I was at it. They came with nice plastic cases (unlike the 1/2" drive) at a great price. A couple of months back I got the 3/8" drive from Sears.....before I went on a tool buying spree and used up my tool budget too quickly. So, I cheaped out on the 3/4 and 1/4 drive torque wrench.

Why is all of this important? Well, if you are a back yard mechanic like me, you don't need all the best stuff. Just stuff that will get you through the job and do it with little difficulty.

My advice is that any tool you are going to put on a six sided fastening device should be six sided. I've rounded too many nuts and bolts in my life with 12 pointed wrenches and sockets now to go any other way but six sided.

Happy tool buying.
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Old 10-21-2011, 06:25 PM   #30
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Oh yah, I bought the factory manuals for the 08 at $200.00 and for the 92 at $180.00. They are both EXCELLENT reference documents that provide everything in great detail about any procedure that you may attempt on your jeep. All torque specifications included for everything that you may have been afraid to ask about. Even detailed rebuilding procedures for both the automatic and manual transmissions. WOW. Worth the money I spent.

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