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Old 04-10-2013, 08:41 AM   #9811
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Originally Posted by KiDoVa View Post
After anxiously awaiting a call from my dealer yesterday that my Jeep had arrived I got nothing. I sent a message and my salesman said the truck never showed up and he's not sure why. It shipped Monday and the dealer is about 2 hours away from the plant. sigh. Must be dropping everyone else's off first! hopefully today.....
WHAT?! so there's even MORE drama possible once my 10A finally departs the factory? It frustrating. aaaarghhh. dealers (most of them) SUCK. someday we'll be ordering straight from the factory.

hope you guys see yours tomorrow at the latest.

We're getting 5-8 inches of snow here in minneapolis - might slow a truck or two down.

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Old 04-10-2013, 08:44 AM   #9812
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Originally Posted by Espada View Post

I am going to get 1.24% from PenFed. I say to hell with traditional banks. It's credit unions all the way for me.
How are you getting that rate? Their website says their best rate is 1.74%

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Old 04-10-2013, 08:56 AM   #9813
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I hit Frame!!!!!!!

If it gets KZ today and makes its transport scheduled for the 10th I will take back all my negative comments.
Good to hear. I know you've been with most us since January-- mine shipped last Saturday and dealer told me it would hit there lot on the 19th. Well I was a little bummed to hear such a long transit time.... Oh well. Wondering if there using pony express to ship mine to Tennessee... Anywho- picked up my new black AEV wheels yesterday and will drop them at the tire place soon so I can make the swap happen the day they release it to me.

Btw- the guys I got the wheels from had 2 rubicon Brute conversions (in the works) onsite and one had a Mercedes diesel in it. They were killer. Not practical for me and the family but awesome by probably anyone's standards.
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Old 04-10-2013, 09:08 AM   #9814
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Based on the above measurements, it would appear a standard Rubicon does not come with taller springs then a Sport model.

If you subtract from the 30" lifted height of the Gecko, the extra lift due to 35" tires over the 32" on the Rubicon, that brings it down to 28 1/2". Then subtracting the 2.5" lift and you are down to the stock height of the standard Rubicon of 26".

The fact the 10A is 1 1/4" taller then the Rubicon, with the 10A's slightly shorter tires, and it would appear the 10A comes from the factory with a 1 1/2" suspension lift.

Now if we can just figure out if they made other drive line and suspension changes when they added this lift, to maintain optimum steering geometry and driveshaft angles, that would be great. Anyone know of someone in the parts department at a Jeep dealer that can look up some of the 10A's front end components to compare to a standard Rubicon?

I would suspect they would need at the very least longer Lower Control Arms to keep the camber angles optimum with the taller springs. And maybe longer track bars to keep the axles centered.
I thought the standard Rubicon had a small lift like .5" or something? At one time I tried to compare specs on the Jeep website - but I gave up because they only provide ground clearance measurements at the axles and break over.

Need to remember a base Wrangler doesn't have 32" tires ... that's why I always measure from center of the hub to fender lips, front and back, and then add them them together and divide by two. That will give you the actual overall lift. The front may yeild 2" on our 10A's over a base Wrangler. I can see the front has extra lift and probably a higher spring rate (stiffer) to accommodate the extra weight of an an installed winch.

Also, you can stuff a taller tire into a rear wheel well easier than the front ... the front steering radius is what complicates the issue. If the taller tire rubs any adjacent components... i.e. front bumper, air dam, rock rails, lower control arms, etc. then removal or trimming may be in order. If the tire contacts the LCA's at full lock, you can adjust the steering stops and it will only affect steeing diameter.

I can't wait to see your 34's ... if my math is correct they should fit with no wheel spacers. Worst case, may need an additional 1" isolator. The stock isolators should be around .5" ... however need to proceed with caution due to the shock length, etc. I'm not familiar with the JK coil perch and upper design enough... and no lift supplier knows the 10A. All speculation at this point... and anything they say is pure BS.

To dispel any rumors send them a photo of this stock rubi spring (left) and 10A spring (right) and ask them how their advertised lift accounts for the OEM suspension.



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Old 04-10-2013, 09:16 AM   #9815
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For people looking at rates...when we asked the dealer if we could use a credit union we already have an account with they said no. We have to use a bank or credit union that the dealer wants us to. Anyone else having that issue?
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Old 04-10-2013, 09:22 AM   #9816
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For people looking at rates...when we asked the dealer if we could use a credit union we already have an account with they said no. We have to use a bank or credit union that the dealer wants us to. Anyone else having that issue?
That is pure BS and I would tell them you'll report them to the US Attorney General for breaking antitrust laws and price fixing... scare the shit out of them.

Its a cash deal to them...

I'm walking in with a check and leaving with my 10A ...

My credit union rates are 2.75%.

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Old 04-10-2013, 09:24 AM   #9817
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Originally Posted by KiDoVa View Post
For people looking at rates...when we asked the dealer if we could use a credit union we already have an account with they said no. We have to use a bank or credit union that the dealer wants us to. Anyone else having that issue?
I have NEVER heard of this! Sure the dealer can request you to use their banks but if you get approved with your financial institution and have a check ready I doubt they wont sell to you.
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Old 04-10-2013, 09:26 AM   #9818
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Originally Posted by KiDoVa View Post
For people looking at rates...when we asked the dealer if we could use a credit union we already have an account with they said no. We have to use a bank or credit union that the dealer wants us to. Anyone else having that issue?
That's absurd. They just wanna make more money off of you. I would only take their financing if they can beat your credit unions rate.

I was upfront with my salesman that I'd be using PenFed credit union. That's probably why they wouldn't go lower than 1.5% below invoice. They had to make money somewhere.
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Old 04-10-2013, 09:28 AM   #9819
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Originally Posted by KiDoVa View Post
For people looking at rates...when we asked the dealer if we could use a credit union we already have an account with they said no. We have to use a bank or credit union that the dealer wants us to. Anyone else having that issue?
Ask them if they would like to put that in writing.
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Old 04-10-2013, 09:33 AM   #9820
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That's absurd. They just wanna make more money off of you. I would only take their financing if they can beat your credit unions rate.

I was upfront with my salesman that I'd be using PenFed credit union. That's probably why they wouldn't go lower than 1.5% below invoice. They had to make money somewhere.
That's what I call squeezing the balloon... simple concept in the corporate world.



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Old 04-10-2013, 09:37 AM   #9821
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For people looking at rates...when we asked the dealer if we could use a credit union we already have an account with they said no. We have to use a bank or credit union that the dealer wants us to. Anyone else having that issue?

As a former Ohio resident I can assure you this is not true.
You can use whatever bank or credit union you want. You can also lodge a complaint with the Ohio Attorney General's office it's very easy to do (I did on another matter).
The dealerships get kickbacks in the form of a percentage of the loan value. Maybe they get you 2% they get a commission of .05% from the different financial institutions to push their loans. Depending on an individual's credit worthiness and the banks tolerance for risk they push certain product.
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Old 04-10-2013, 09:45 AM   #9822
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No way they can do that, just like they can't penalize you for paying off a loan early!
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Old 04-10-2013, 09:53 AM   #9823
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I had a few questions regarding slight mods. I know there is already a thread, but doesn't seem like too many post in there so I figured I would get better responses here.

1. As far as wheel locks and taillight guards go, are there any brands that are considered better I should be looking at? Or are they all basically the same?

2. Is the 10A different than a regular Rubicon when it comes to skid plates? I read a guy saying to upgrade the skid plates asap because something with the evap canister? And also to protect the engine. Is this something I need to look into? If so, what brands? And is there one master skid plate that can protect everything?

Thanks!

Seeing all these pics is getting me pumped!

Looking good.
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Old 04-10-2013, 09:57 AM   #9824
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Duke, if it's at the distribution center and off the train car call your dealer. They may give you the run around, but they can pick it up by filling out a few forms and sending a driver.
I am gonna call them today, the weather was a little rough yesterday although nothing like was forecasted. Hopefully they will run up and grab it!
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Old 04-10-2013, 09:58 AM   #9825
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I had a few questions regarding slight mods. I know there is already a thread, but doesn't seem like too many post in there so I figured I would get better responses here.

1. As far as wheel locks and taillight guards go, are there any brands that are considered better I should be looking at? Or are they all basically the same?

2. Is the 10A different than a regular Rubicon when it comes to skid plates? I read a guy saying to upgrade the skid plates asap because something with the evap canister? And also to protect the engine. Is this something I need to look into? If so, what brands? And is there one master skid plate that can protect everything?

Thanks!

Seeing all these pics is getting me pumped!

Looking good.
I would tell that guy you mentioned... A 10A out of the box is made for the rocks.

That rhymes.



.
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Old 04-10-2013, 10:01 AM   #9826
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Picked it up today. Amazing!! It's worth the wait
Congrats. Have fun wheelin.
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Old 04-10-2013, 10:04 AM   #9827
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I am gonna call them today, the weather was a little rough yesterday although nothing like was forecasted. Hopefully they will run up and grab it!
I'm doing the same. We're supposed to have bad weather tommorrow, so I'd like to get it in today.
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Old 04-10-2013, 10:06 AM   #9828
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I would tell that guy you mentioned... A 10A out of the box is made for the rocks.

That rhymes.



.

I think you might be on to something with those lyrics!


Kind of what I thought, a 10A should be ready for battle for the most part. I wasn't sure what he was talking about, so who better to turn to than this forum


I still want wheel locks and taillight guards. Im surprised the 10A doesn't come with taillight guards... Most, if not all I believe, limited edition models came with guards. Why not on the 10A, who knows.
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Old 04-10-2013, 10:12 AM   #9829
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For people looking at rates...when we asked the dealer if we could use a credit union we already have an account with they said no. We have to use a bank or credit union that the dealer wants us to. Anyone else having that issue?
I wouldn't even acknowledge their BS. When you show up with a check from your credit union there is zero chance they will not take it. No dealer will refuse a bank check for the full amount of a vehicle, especially one YOU ordered. I always refuse to even talk to a dealership about how I'm paying for it. Its really none of their business whether I show up with a sack full of cash or a cashiers check. They have a deposit, so my financial status is none of their business. I'm giving them the privilege of being the ones to sell me a car. I can go to 20 other dealers in the state and give them my business. I don't trade in my older vehicle. I don't even ask them questions. I know more about the car then they do. When I ordered the 10a, I called the general manager directly and dealt with him. I never walk into a dealership without a check for the vehicle in my pocket. I'm not giving them any leverage over me.
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Old 04-10-2013, 10:14 AM   #9830
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I think you might be on to something with those lyrics!


Kind of what I thought, a 10A should be ready for battle for the most part. I wasn't sure what he was talking about, so who better to turn to than this forum


I still want wheel locks and taillight guards. Im surprised the 10A doesn't come with taillight guards... Most, if not all I believe, limited edition models came with guards. Why not on the 10A, who knows.
Locks can be bought from Mopar or Gorilla...

Taillight guards.. I can think of anything that rhymes. Maybe because there's more at stake than the taillight housing... if I tapped a rock, tree or what not, I'd be more worried about what was going to happen to the rear corners... i.e sheet metal.

.02

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Old 04-10-2013, 10:23 AM   #9831
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Locks can be bought from Mopar or Gorilla...

Taillight guards.. I can think of anything that rhymes. Maybe because there's more at stake than the taillight housing... if I tapped a rock, tree or what not, I'd be more worried about what was going to happen to the rear corners... i.e sheet metal.

.02

.
Agreed. Taillights and plastic fenders are expendable parts that don't rust when damaged, and that cracking sound is a good indicator that its time to stop. I have never understood replacing stock plastic fenders with painted metal ones. When my plastic fender starts scraping the rock it lets me know to stop before more expensive damage occurs. I don't care if the fenders have scrapes on them. Battle scars. If you bolt a guard around your taillights anything that makes contact with the guard is pushing right on the sheet metal. You may find yourself having a more complex expensive repair with the light guards. Of course you really slam hard or fast into something it doesn't matter. Time to break out the body and fender tools.
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Old 04-10-2013, 10:38 AM   #9832
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Would anyone be interested in starting/joining a Facebook page for 10A owners? I could start one. Since our ranting about production should start to dwindle....We could communicate on there still and post pics and talk about meeting up if we are near each other. I know not everyone has a Facebook but whats a better reason than this? Thoughts?
Sounds awesome to me.. I would be a part..
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Old 04-10-2013, 10:40 AM   #9833
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Thanks everyone for the credit union feedback! I will be calling them shortly!
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Old 04-10-2013, 10:41 AM   #9834
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Ok If you would like to join us on Facebook here is the link https://www.facebook.com/groups/10AJeepWrangler/
just sent my request...
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Old 04-10-2013, 10:42 AM   #9835
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Wolf... reminds me of my old motocross days...

Husqvarna's had aluminum fenders..

Bultaco's had fiberglass fenders..

Yamaha's had metal fenders...

Everyone eventually caught on to plastics.

I remember that scene in the Graduate... Benjamin was advised to look for a job in plastics.

Little did they know he had another job...



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Old 04-10-2013, 10:43 AM   #9836
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No way they can do that, just like they can't penalize you for paying off a loan early!
This is not true.
Some loans have a prepayment charge included in the terms of the contract (fine print). This may be because of a lower interest rate or simply the terms of the loan being offered. I'm not talking low budget loan companies here I'm talking about major banks and credit unions. Prepayment fees and other terms such as "vendors interest insurance" are items that help the banks offset the low interest rates. Please read everything including the back of the contract and ask questions before you sign, be an informed consumer.
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Old 04-10-2013, 10:45 AM   #9837
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Originally Posted by Kraken View Post
I had a few questions regarding slight mods. I know there is already a thread, but doesn't seem like too many post in there so I figured I would get better responses here.

1. As far as wheel locks and taillight guards go, are there any brands that are considered better I should be looking at? Or are they all basically the same?

2. Is the 10A different than a regular Rubicon when it comes to skid plates? I read a guy saying to upgrade the skid plates asap because something with the evap canister? And also to protect the engine. Is this something I need to look into? If so, what brands? And is there one master skid plate that can protect everything?

Thanks!

Seeing all these pics is getting me pumped!

Looking good.
Might as well add hood lock, assuming base model w no mods, hood might be more a target than base wheels/tires..but what do I know?..
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Old 04-10-2013, 10:45 AM   #9838
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I think you might be on to something with those lyrics!


Kind of what I thought, a 10A should be ready for battle for the most part. I wasn't sure what he was talking about, so who better to turn to than this forum


I still want wheel locks and taillight guards. Im surprised the 10A doesn't come with taillight guards... Most, if not all I believe, limited edition models came with guards. Why not on the 10A, who knows.
10a came with tail light guards, they just forgot to put them on.

Seriously, I thought they come with wheel locks.
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Old 04-10-2013, 10:53 AM   #9839
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Is anyone trading in their current wrangler (or any car i guess)?

i am hoping to get a trade price sometime this week from my dealer. I am not telling them at this point that i have the 1% under invoice deal. I assume i will get a lower trade price for my jk if tell them that they'll basically be making less on the price of my 10A. Do you guys know if this is true. Maybe this is a question for Pat.

If i get a trade value today (and im happy with it), can i show up to take delivery and hold them to that trade price even when i toss the affiliate discount on the table?

I havent informed my dealer about the discount because i dont think its in my best interest to do so yet. Either way, come delivery, they need to accept it. it just becomes more of a question of whether or not they'll give me less for my trade - which i could totally see them doing. With all other cars i have bought, they always mention the trade as important variable in overall pricing and how they structure the costs (lower trade value can bring down the price of the new car more, vice versa, etc). I am paying cash for the difference, so no financing benefit for the dealer can be factored in.
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Old 04-10-2013, 10:57 AM   #9840
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This could sound really stupid but what is the 1% under invoice deal that everyone is talking about.

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