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Old 09-26-2012, 10:07 AM   #1
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2013 jeep wrangler 4 door, sub wiring

I need to tap into the speaker wires from the amp to the subwoofer. I am hooking up hi low converter, then running a new amp to the battery. Does anyone know exactly what each of these wires represent? These wires lead to the sub and the 12v outlet in the back of the car. The green w/white and gray w/white are positive or negative for the sub voice coil 1. And the green w/brown and gray w/brown are negative or positive for sub voice coil 2? I'm not sure! Help please. Black is ground? And blue w/pink I have no idea...
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Old 09-26-2012, 10:09 AM   #2
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The two green wires are the ground wires. Two grey wires are the positive wires. Didn't touch the pink or black wires. Just did this on my 2012.

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Old 09-26-2012, 10:20 AM   #3
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Was your alpine sub a dual voice coil? I have 4 wires going to my sub... I think the 2013 is different from the 2012, the blue w/pink and black wire go to the 12v outlet
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Old 09-26-2012, 11:15 AM   #4
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Yes, the 2012 sub (was Infinity rather than Alpine) was a dual voice coil as well.

I swapped in a Kicker COMPVR8 2 Ohm sub. Has a Kicker ZX 200.2 amp pushing it. Sounds amazing.
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Old 09-26-2012, 03:05 PM   #5
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How exactly did you hook up your sub? Did you keep the old amp? Use a high low converter? Or what, cause I went to a audio store today and got like completely shut down when I explained to the guy what I was trying to do lol
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Old 09-26-2012, 06:55 PM   #6
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And where did you hook up the remote turn on lead for the new amp?
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Old 09-27-2012, 01:14 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Metonymy View Post
Yes, the 2012 sub (was Infinity rather than Alpine) was a dual voice coil as well.

I swapped in a Kicker COMPVR8 2 Ohm sub. Has a Kicker ZX 200.2 amp pushing it. Sounds amazing.

Do you have any pics of the Kicker installed? I'm assuming you had to use a spacer? Does it come with a grille to protect it?
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Old 09-27-2012, 03:15 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Metonymy View Post
Yes, the 2012 sub (was Infinity rather than Alpine) was a dual voice coil as well.

I swapped in a Kicker COMPVR8 2 Ohm sub. Has a Kicker ZX 200.2 amp pushing it. Sounds amazing.
Are you using the stock enclusure? (I thought the enclosure was too small for that sub).
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Old 09-27-2012, 11:34 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by Jakesna View Post
How exactly did you hook up your sub? Did you keep the old amp? Use a high low converter? Or what, cause I went to a audio store today and got like completely shut down when I explained to the guy what I was trying to do lol
I paid a local shop to do it, but he gave me the quick run down on it and I watched him install it:

- Amp is under back seat
- Tapped directly into sub wires running back to the sub to send power
- No high/low converter needed as the signal from the factory head unit is sufficient
- Gain is barely above zero because of how strong the signal was
- Factory amp is still in place and in use. No modification there

The amp is simply in-line with the wire running to the sub and amplifies it. Nothing else special was needed.

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And where did you hook up the remote turn on lead for the new amp?
Not 100% sure, but it's up under the driver side of the dash somewhere. The installer even mentioned it was tricky as Chrysler uses different "pulses" through the same wiring to trigger different electrical items on/off. He found a way to do it though.

Only drawback? My key has to be two clicks forward for the sub to come on. First click forward = radio and all that. Second click forward = sub on. In short, it has to be in the run position, even if the engine isn't running.

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Do you have any pics of the Kicker installed? I'm assuming you had to use a spacer? Does it come with a grille to protect it?
I can take one tomorrow when it's light outside. Mine is installed perfectly straight up/down. Looks great.

Yup, used a standard 8" spacer that I believe was 1" thick. I also super-glued felt fabric on it front/back to help seal and prevent vibrations.

I drilled six holes to keep the factory screws (in case I ever want to uninstall the good stuff). I counter-sunk the holes with a 3/8" bit just deep enough to get the wide head of the factory screws to go deeper as the sub needs a flat surface to seal against and can't do that without those screws going in further.

I installed the ring into the housing using the factory screws and factory holes. Then push the new sub up against the ring and screw it in.

It doesn't come with the grille cover, but I bought it separately. They're ridiculously priced, but it's worth having.

I got my sub and grille cover shipped from Crutchfield for $118 I believe it was.

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Originally Posted by panthermark View Post
Are you using the stock enclusure? (I thought the enclosure was too small for that sub).
Yup. The sub fits beautifully with no modifications other than needing the spacer. And the new sub uses 8 screws instead of the factory 6, but there's no alignment issues on the spacer as none of the screws overlap if you install it such as I did.
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Old 09-27-2012, 11:40 PM   #10
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Does anyone know if the sub cables are there for non premium sound JK ? Would like to add the Alpine sub and amp to the base stereo .
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Old 09-28-2012, 05:58 PM   #11
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Does anyone know if the sub cables are there for non premium sound JK ? Would like to add the Alpine sub and amp to the base stereo .
I've heard rumors that they are, but I haven't looked to see for myself.

To look:

- Open back seat door (assuming you have an Unlimited)
- Pull carpet away from door seam
- Find wiring harness running along the inside of the door seam
- Look for the colored wires as shown in the OP's photo in the top post.

If you have those grey and green wires, you just might be in luck.
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Old 11-12-2012, 09:37 AM   #12
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Does anyone know if the sub cables are there for non premium sound JK ? Would like to add the Alpine sub and amp to the base stereo .
The sub wire harness is there in the back for the factory sub. I picked a used one up on ebay now I'm tring to find a factory amp anyone have the part number? Also trying to find out if the wires for the amp are there under the steering wheel.
Thanks Dale
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Old 11-28-2012, 08:37 AM   #13
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The sub wire harness is there in the back for the factory sub. I picked a used one up on ebay now I'm tring to find a factory amp anyone have the part number? Also trying to find out if the wires for the amp are there under the steering wheel.
Thanks Dale
Ok got some more info. You can't just add a factory amp to a non premium system there are different main dash harnesses and without the premium system it does not have the connector for the amp. I am trying to find a hi low converter that would let me keep the factory 730n RHR that I added and the Uconnect system to add a aftermarket amp to power the factory sub also going to install the lockpick to unlock the features of the radio but
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Old 11-28-2012, 09:45 AM   #14
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Only drawback? My key has to be two clicks forward for the sub to come on. First click forward = radio and all that. Second click forward = sub on. In short, it has to be in the run position, even if the engine isn't running.
Sounds like they tapped just the normal switched +12v source somewhere. They could have tapped into the Retained Accessory Power +12v which is where the 1st click would have worked. That is how you can remove the key and the HU stays powered until you open the door or the EVIC programmed time out is reached.
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Old 12-30-2012, 01:58 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wyle69 View Post
Ok got some more info. You can't just add a factory amp to a non premium system there are different main dash harnesses and without the premium system it does not have the connector for the amp. I am trying to find a hi low converter that would let me keep the factory 730n RHR that I added and the Uconnect system to add a aftermarket amp to power the factory sub also going to install the lockpick to unlock the features of the radio but
You said you added a 730 RHR Head Unit, did you have Uconnect before you Traded up on the Head Unit? The way you worded it it sounds like you have the 730 RHR and the Uconnect Module....If you meant Uconnect (which is what the 730 is called along with the name MyGig). Uconnect is Built into the 730 RER and RHR units....These units only output left and right front, there is no rear, The Amp does all the Separation of Fade etc. The Prem Factory Amp is Preset for each of the 6 speakers plus the Dual Voice Sub...
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Old 12-30-2012, 02:00 PM   #16
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The sub wire harness is there in the back for the factory sub. I picked a used one up on ebay now I'm tring to find a factory amp anyone have the part number? Also trying to find out if the wires for the amp are there under the steering wheel.
Thanks Dale
Did you ever get a Amp? The prem 368 watt 8 channel? I have
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Old 03-16-2013, 05:45 PM   #17
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Final setup
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Old 03-18-2013, 09:18 PM   #18
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Ok so I am trying to put a send Sub (500W mono Kicker) and a 10" marine grade under the seat.. I am pretty damn good at wiringi but i have a few questions... like can i run the pre amps to the radio or how can i tie it in to the system so i can use two subs and amps... also can i change out the factor amp on the 7 speaker infity system to get more response out of the infinity?



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Old 08-20-2013, 10:33 AM   #19
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Does anyone happen to know the part number to the wiring harness that is part of the 2013 stock subwoofer panel, or willing to part with thiers?

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