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Old 07-24-2012, 11:38 AM   #3031
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Mine did but not the front windows. I did that after purchase...and the windshield (very light on windshield).

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Old 07-24-2012, 11:52 AM   #3032
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I have a question on window tint from the factory since we're on that topic.

Does the factory soft top come with tinted windows already done? Or is it an option that must be chosen to have tinted soft top windows? I'd like the soft top windows pre-tinted so I don't have to buy Bestop tinted windows right after getting my JKUR. I'll be going with a JKUR without the premium soft top.

I know I'll need to get the hard glass windows tinted after the fact.

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Old 07-24-2012, 11:53 AM   #3033
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Originally Posted by HK_Runner View Post
Mine did but not the front windows. I did that after purchase...and the windshield (very light on windshield).
Im just worried because i saw some sports on the lot with the hardtop but no tint in them at all. They were clear glass
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Old 07-24-2012, 12:03 PM   #3034
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Hey guys ordered my 2013 Wrangler Sport today
Crush Clear Coat
Hardtop
Air
6-Speed Manual

But i was wondering one thing about when i ordered. The guy said he would order it later that day as i did it at 10am.

With the hardtop do those windows automatically come tinted as stated here?

BLACK 3-PIECE HARD TOP $795 ($708) (no charge with Dual Top Group)
FREEDOM PANEL STORAGE BAG (CS2)
REAR WINDOW DEFROSTER (GFA)
REAR WINDOW WIPER/WASHER (JHB)
TINTED RR QTR & LIFTGATE WINDOWS (GED)

Or is that extra? Because when I brought it up to the guy and he tryed checking and it was only available on saharas and rubicons? But when i was on the lot leaving i noticed a base sport with a hardtop that had the dark tinted windows?

Any ideas here guys?

The hard top comes with tinted back windows. I double check with my dealer and on this site. The front windows won't be tinted unless you get that tinted option though.
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Old 07-24-2012, 12:05 PM   #3035
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The hard top comes with tinted back windows. I double check with my dealer and on this site. The front windows won't be tinted unless you get that tinted option though.
Great man thanks a bunch for the info
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Old 07-24-2012, 12:06 PM   #3036
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If you are NOT gonna wheel it, and NOT gonna lift it, stick with the 3.21's. They will get you better mileage.
Hi from Sweden

I have a 2012 auto 2 door Sahara Wrangler with 3.21 and me and my girlfriend took a test drive with a 2012 auto Sahara Wrangler 4 door with 3.73.

We booth directly noticed and commented that the 3.73 had a louder engine noise and was not so nice like the more smooth sound from the 3.21.

For us it was more of a noise, not like a nice V8 sound, maybe more like a japanise motorcykel.

My girlfriend sad that do not buy the 4 door, it sounds terrible compared to the my 2 door wrangler, she do not know so much about jeeps but hate noise that interfer with her classic music

I have never read that any one have noticed this before or cared but booth me and my girlfriend noticed it directly and we did not like the sound of the 3.73 compared to the 3.21.

But then we also compared a 2 door (3.21) with 255/70/18 against a 4 door (3.73) with 245/75/17.

I am used to a 4x4 Suzuki Jimny with 1.3 liter engine and 82HP and find my wrangler to have enough power and sometimes to much power that I find dangerous.

Best regards from Sweden

Omar Brännström
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Old 07-24-2012, 12:08 PM   #3037
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Probably stating the obvious, but be careful with tinting the fronts- if it's illegal in your state, you might eventually get cited for it-even if everyone you know has 'em and never has a problem.

I got a $300+ ticket for having my front windows too dark once, after having them for years and never having a problem. That was more than twice as much as I paid for the tints themselves! I, for one, will never illegally tint again! (Maybe if I lived in FL or AZ or somewhere with crazy amounts of sun)
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Old 07-24-2012, 12:25 PM   #3038
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Originally Posted by Omar Brannstrom View Post
Hi from Sweden

I have a 2012 auto 2 door Sahara Wrangler with 3.21 and me and my girlfriend took a test drive with a 2012 auto Sahara Wrangler 4 door with 3.73.

We booth directly noticed and commented that the 3.73 had a louder engine noise and was not so nice like the more smooth sound from the 3.21.

For us it was more of a noise, not like a nice V8 sound, maybe more like a japanise motorcykel.

My girlfriend sad that do not buy the 4 door, it sounds terrible compared to the my 2 door wrangler, she do not know so much about jeeps but hate noise that interfer with her classic music

I have never read that any one have noticed this before or cared but booth me and my girlfriend noticed it directly and we did not like the sound of the 3.73 compared to the 3.21.

But then we also compared a 2 door (3.21) with 255/70/18 against a 4 door (3.73) with 245/75/17.

I am used to a 4x4 Suzuki Jimny with 1.3 liter engine and 82HP and find my wrangler to have enough power and sometimes to much power that I find dangerous.

Best regards from Sweden

Omar Brännström
Hmmm. The noise factor didn't occur to me. I shall definitely test-drive both to see if I notice a difference.

And....omigoodness, 11 months is a long delivery time! Congratulations on finally getting your Jeep!
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Old 07-24-2012, 01:14 PM   #3039
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I have 5 sports built and in storage already waiting to be shipped.
Are they holding for a week or so before they ship? When do you expect your first sold orders to arrive?
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Old 07-24-2012, 01:28 PM   #3040
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Originally Posted by Jackster3 View Post
Hey guys ordered my 2013 Wrangler Sport today
Crush Clear Coat
Hardtop
Air
6-Speed Manual

But i was wondering one thing about when i ordered. The guy said he would order it later that day as i did it at 10am.

With the hardtop do those windows automatically come tinted as stated here?

BLACK 3-PIECE HARD TOP $795 ($708) (no charge with Dual Top Group)
FREEDOM PANEL STORAGE BAG (CS2)
REAR WINDOW DEFROSTER (GFA)
REAR WINDOW WIPER/WASHER (JHB)
TINTED RR QTR & LIFTGATE WINDOWS (GED)

Or is that extra? Because when I brought it up to the guy and he tryed checking and it was only available on saharas and rubicons? But when i was on the lot leaving i noticed a base sport with a hardtop that had the dark tinted windows?

Any ideas here guys?
If you are ordering a base Sport (not an S package), your back windows will NOT be tinted. (Well, they are tinted, but it is so light, you won't notice).

If you want factory dark tint, you will have to order the S package AND order DEEP TINT.

Deep tint in not available on the BASE Sport.
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Old 07-24-2012, 01:35 PM   #3041
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Ok, this is going to sound like a dumb question, but is everyone else getting a signed price quote when they order their Jeep? I picked up the last of my paperwork today and I dont have a signed final price quote. I have an email with everything on it, but I feel like they are jerking me around, my sales person said they dont give anything else until the Jeep comes in and that she assures me my price quote in my email will be the final price... Blah, blah, blah... So what paperwork is everyone getting??
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Old 07-24-2012, 01:39 PM   #3042
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Ok, this is going to sound like a dumb question, but is everyone else getting a signed price quote when they order their Jeep? I picked up the last of my paperwork today and I dont have a signed final price quote. I have an email with everything on it, but I feel like they are jerking me around, my sales person said they dont give anything else until the Jeep comes in and that she assures me my price quote in my email will be the final price... Blah, blah, blah... So what paperwork is everyone getting??
Only thing I left with was the POC (price order confirmation) and the receipt for my $500 deposit.
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Old 07-24-2012, 01:40 PM   #3043
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Ok, this is going to sound like a dumb question, but is everyone else getting a signed price quote when they order their Jeep? I picked up the last of my paperwork today and I dont have a signed final price quote. I have an email with everything on it, but I feel like they are jerking me around, my sales person said they dont give anything else until the Jeep comes in and that she assures me my price quote in my email will be the final price... Blah, blah, blah... So what paperwork is everyone getting??
I was given a signed P&S the day I put the deposit down.
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Old 07-24-2012, 01:56 PM   #3044
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Don't worry- an email is just as good as a signed piece of paper, in any state that has adopted the Uniform Commerical Code, which is basically all of them. I believe you're in Ohio- see Ohio Rev. Code Ann. § 1306.06.
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Old 07-24-2012, 02:02 PM   #3045
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Don't worry- an email is just as good as a signed piece of paper, in any state that has adopted the Uniform Commerical Code, which is basically all of them. I believe you're in Ohio- see Ohio Rev. Code Ann. § 1306.06.
Thanks a bunch, after going thru the hassle of dealing with Chrysler on my 2011 Lemon, the last thing I need is to be jerked around some more on my new one :-)
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Old 07-24-2012, 02:24 PM   #3046
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Ok, this is going to sound like a dumb question, but is everyone else getting a signed price quote when they order their Jeep? I picked up the last of my paperwork today and I dont have a signed final price quote. I have an email with everything on it, but I feel like they are jerking me around, my sales person said they dont give anything else until the Jeep comes in and that she assures me my price quote in my email will be the final price... Blah, blah, blah... So what paperwork is everyone getting??
Not a dumb question at all! The responses helped me since I'm in the process of buying (my first new) Jeep, too. So now I'll know what to expect.
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Old 07-24-2012, 02:56 PM   #3047
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Thanks a bunch, after going thru the hassle of dealing with Chrysler on my 2011 Lemon, the last thing I need is to be jerked around some more on my new one :-)
As long as your the email you have from them says what you want it to say, you're set.

I don't know about everyone else but my experience with ordering via TL was very straightforward and so far there has been no BS... like the affiliate discount is also a "get out of being jerked around" card. Hopefully the trend continues for all of us!
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Old 07-24-2012, 03:07 PM   #3048
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I am just about ready to order my 2013 loaded up Rubicon b/c I have been waiting for the billet to be available. Thanks to this forum I have my TL ready to go so I know about what my price will be. My finaces are all set so I know what my APR will be.

My only variable is my trade in. I spoke with 2 dealers who wouldnt budge off the galves price that I know is terrible; about 30-40% below KBB. Neither cared whatsoever about the options I had on the trade and one didnt even look at it, just looked it up on the computer. I dont want to beat them up over price but i dont want to get my a*s handed to me either.

Any suggestions on negotiating a trade price? I would prefer not selling on my own even though i know i can get a better price that way. Im ready to spent over $40k on a loaded up Rubi and they wont budge on the $3k i need to make it happen. I am more than willing to leave a ton of meat on the bone for them, but what do i have to do?
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Old 07-24-2012, 03:16 PM   #3049
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Originally Posted by Omar Brannstrom

Hi from Sweden

I have a 2012 auto 2 door Sahara Wrangler with 3.21 and me and my girlfriend took a test drive with a 2012 auto Sahara Wrangler 4 door with 3.73.

We booth directly noticed and commented that the 3.73 had a louder engine noise and was not so nice like the more smooth sound from the 3.21.

For us it was more of a noise, not like a nice V8 sound, maybe more like a japanise motorcykel.

My girlfriend sad that do not buy the 4 door, it sounds terrible compared to the my 2 door wrangler, she do not know so much about jeeps but hate noise that interfer with her classic music

I have never read that any one have noticed this before or cared but booth me and my girlfriend noticed it directly and we did not like the sound of the 3.73 compared to the 3.21.

But then we also compared a 2 door (3.21) with 255/70/18 against a 4 door (3.73) with 245/75/17.

I am used to a 4x4 Suzuki Jimny with 1.3 liter engine and 82HP and find my wrangler to have enough power and sometimes to much power that I find dangerous.

Best regards from Sweden

Omar Brännström
The 3:73's shouldn't sound different on acceleration. At highway speed they may turn a higher RPM than the 3:21, but not enough to be a drastic change. I barely noticed a difference between 3:21 and 4:10. Perhaps something else is wrong with it?
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Old 07-24-2012, 03:19 PM   #3050
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I am just about ready to order my 2013 loaded up Rubicon b/c I have been waiting for the billet to be available. Thanks to this forum I have my TL ready to go so I know about what my price will be. My finaces are all set so I know what my APR will be.

My only variable is my trade in. I spoke with 2 dealers who wouldnt budge off the galves price that I know is terrible; about 30-40% below KBB. Neither cared whatsoever about the options I had on the trade and one didnt even look at it, just looked it up on the computer. I dont want to beat them up over price but i dont want to get my a*s handed to me either.

Any suggestions on negotiating a trade price? I would prefer not selling on my own even though i know i can get a better price that way. Im ready to spent over $40k on a loaded up Rubi and they wont budge on the $3k i need to make it happen. I am more than willing to leave a ton of meat on the bone for them, but what do i have to do?
People have had mixed experiences, but you can try and see what Carmax will give you. They'll appraise it and give it a quote that is valid for 7 days. It doesn't cost you anything but time.

If they're also low, there might not be anything you can do but try to manage a private sale.
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Old 07-24-2012, 03:36 PM   #3051
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People have had mixed experiences, but you can try and see what Carmax will give you. They'll appraise it and give it a quote that is valid for 7 days. It doesn't cost you anything but time.

If they're also low, there might not be anything you can do but try to manage a private sale.

Thanks. I tried to look intp that but the nearest carmax is about 4 hours away from me. The private sale wouldnt be so bad I guess but timing it around when a new car arrives is the part i'm not looking forward to since i dont have another transportation option.

"I'll take it and I'll even pay you your full asking price". "No, sorry. I cant take your money because my Jeep hasn't been made yet."

Why do dealers have to live up to their bad reputations? (forum mates not withstanding, of course)
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Old 07-24-2012, 03:36 PM   #3052
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I am just about ready to order my 2013 loaded up Rubicon b/c I have been waiting for the billet to be available. Thanks to this forum I have my TL ready to go so I know about what my price will be. My finaces are all set so I know what my APR will be.

My only variable is my trade in. I spoke with 2 dealers who wouldnt budge off the galves price that I know is terrible; about 30-40% below KBB. Neither cared whatsoever about the options I had on the trade and one didnt even look at it, just looked it up on the computer. I dont want to beat them up over price but i dont want to get my a*s handed to me either.

Any suggestions on negotiating a trade price? I would prefer not selling on my own even though i know i can get a better price that way. Im ready to spent over $40k on a loaded up Rubi and they wont budge on the $3k i need to make it happen. I am more than willing to leave a ton of meat on the bone for them, but what do i have to do?
Same boat here (potentially). Is galves a source used more by dealers than the others? KBB and Edmunds vary by about $4k for me, but I haven't gone the galves route. And no carmax for me within 200 miles.



Pat, I sent you a pm about this. Looking for a trade in guesstimate on a "Rocky Mountain Edition" Patriot.

Any help you guys can provide is greatly appreciated.
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Old 07-24-2012, 03:53 PM   #3053
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The private sale wouldnt be so bad I guess but timing it around when a new car arrives is the part i'm not looking forward to since i dont have another transportation option.
If you have the potential for making 3k+ over what the dealer is offering, you may want to go with the private sale and rent a car for a few weeks. You should still come out ahead if you get something economical just to get around.
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Old 07-24-2012, 03:56 PM   #3054
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I am just about ready to order my 2013 loaded up Rubicon b/c I have been waiting for the billet to be available. Thanks to this forum I have my TL ready to go so I know about what my price will be. My finaces are all set so I know what my APR will be.

My only variable is my trade in. I spoke with 2 dealers who wouldnt budge off the galves price that I know is terrible; about 30-40% below KBB. Neither cared whatsoever about the options I had on the trade and one didnt even look at it, just looked it up on the computer. I dont want to beat them up over price but i dont want to get my a*s handed to me either.

Any suggestions on negotiating a trade price? I would prefer not selling on my own even though i know i can get a better price that way. Im ready to spent over $40k on a loaded up Rubi and they wont budge on the $3k i need to make it happen. I am more than willing to leave a ton of meat on the bone for them, but what do i have to do?
Galves and Black Book are changing the game for dealers. They pull in prices from Wholesale Auctions only. There are several massive private wholesale auctions that take place daily in the US (Dallas and LA are two of the biggest). Dealership excess inventory gets moved in and out of these place at prices well below what we could ever buy a vehicle for. These guides like Galves pull in the prices of these auctions only. Guess what though? You are not selling your car at auction, you are trading it in. Very little dealership inventory actually goes through auctions. But if 10 people traded in an Acura TL on a Saturday afternoon, it is quite possible that several of those would be sent to auction to balance out their used car inventory. So dealers pull these stupid low ball Galve numbers out, and they are really not applicable to a normal trade-in situation at all. They will also claim your car is at "Fair" condition when making you an offer, even though most vehicles qualify for good condition. You need to play hard ball and simply go to another dealer. Tell the new dealer up front that you dislike negotiations and are making them a fair win-win deal. You agree to buy XYZ jeep at 1% below invoice with your affiliate number, but that you also need ABC price (a fair price your car is worth) for your trade-in for the deal to happen. Tell them there is no negotiation in either price and they can take it or leave it. You will eventually find a dealer that will take it (assuming you are being fair on your trade in price) as they should be able to make $1000 or so on your Jeep and also $1000-$2000 for your trade in. If they balk at your offer, just thank them and walk toward the door. Panic will often set in and they will raise the offer as you are leaving.

Here is an article that also gives some good advice on this subject. Used Car Trade Value. Dealer Secrets. Save Thousands
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Old 07-24-2012, 04:06 PM   #3055
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Galves and Black Book are changing the game for dealers. They pull in prices from Wholesale Auctions only. There are several massive private wholesale auctions that take place daily in the US (Dallas and LA are two of the biggest). Dealership excess inventory gets moved in and out of these place at prices well below what we could ever buy a vehicle for. These guides like Galves pull in the prices of these auctions only. Guess what though? You are not selling your car at auction, you are trading it in. So dealers pull these stupid low ball Galve numbers out, and they are really not applicable to your situation at all since you are not selling at an auction. You need to play hard ball and simply go to another dealer. Tell them up front you want to buy XYZ jeep at 1% below invoice with your affiliate number, but that you also need ABC price (a fair price your car is worth) for your trade in for the deal to happen. Tell them there is no negotiation in either price and they can take it or leave it. You will eventually find a dealer that will take it as they should be able to make $1000 or so on your Jeep and also $1000-$2000 for your trade in. If they balk at your offer, just thank them and walk toward the door. Panic will often set in and they will raise the offer as you are leaving. Here is an article that also gives some good advice on this subject. Used Car Trade Value. Dealer Secrets. Save Thousands
Agreed. The auction number just represents the least amount the dealer is likely to get for your trade-in, if he ends up having to take it to auction. This isn't your problem, though- it's his. Imagine negotiating the price of a 2013 and telling the dealer you won't pay a penny more than the lowest you could possibly sell it for, if you couldn't find any buyers. That makes no sense. The dealer won't sell you anything for the amount to which it will depreciate, and you should follow the same rules!

My dealer tried this a little bit, so we had a discussion about KBB and Edmunds values. I asked him if these aren't the right values, why are they published? Why did the dealer's own website recommend using KBB to figure out trade-in value? He started trying to explain that they have to incur the cost of reconditioning it, and I reminded him that was why we were discussing trade-in value, as opposed to private sale numbers.

One thing: I don't really agree with a "take it or leave it" approach. My advice is to not let them push you around, but also don't just clam up and storm out when you get low-balled. Try to have a civil conversation about it. If the dealer wants to be the one who acts like a baby and refuses to budge, then it's time to move on. Also, the number you tell them you need for your trade-in should be higher than your actual needs. Need $5k? Tell them $5900. They're assuming that you're doing this anyway (and they're also doing it to you) so you're creating unnecessary tension by demanding an amount for which there is no wiggle room. Both of you would like to come out on top, but both of you would also be ok just coming to a fair agreement. You can't expect to get to the latter without defending the dealer's attempts for the former.
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Old 07-24-2012, 04:07 PM   #3056
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Thanks. I tried to look intp that but the nearest carmax is about 4 hours away from me. The private sale wouldnt be so bad I guess but timing it around when a new car arrives is the part i'm not looking forward to since i dont have another transportation option.

"I'll take it and I'll even pay you your full asking price". "No, sorry. I cant take your money because my Jeep hasn't been made yet."

Why do dealers have to live up to their bad reputations? (forum mates not withstanding, of course)
I sold my Dakota by private sale a few months ago (I hate the trade-in dance) - but then, I have the luxury of my wife having her car and my work car so I'm not actually suffering, merely feeling that I am in limbo with no wheels of my own while I wait for my JKU to be built.
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Old 07-24-2012, 04:42 PM   #3057
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One final comment on my post above (it is not letting me edit that post now for some reason) is that selling a car on your own is really not that hard to do. Craigs List, Autotrader etc have made it pretty easy these days. If dealers are not interested in your car, or you do not want to play the trade in game, you can still easily sell it on your own. You very likely will end up with much more than dealer trade in value by selling it on your own anyways.
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Old 07-24-2012, 04:49 PM   #3058
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I sold mine private party for 4K more than the dealer offered! I am just bumming rides from my wife, and borrowing family members cars when they are out of town. Hopefully won't be much longer in limbo, but haven't had to dust off the bike yet.

It will be well worth it in the end for the saved negotiating nightmare and the 4K difference. It also got me some cash to buy parts for while I wait.
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Old 07-24-2012, 04:56 PM   #3059
rotaredoM

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I am not looking forward to the trade in dance again. Ugggg....

Went through it with a couple of dealers in December for my Libby, but things never worked out...while at the same time doing trading in the (now) wife's Mazda 6 for her new Rav4.

I may consider going private...or back to CarMax.
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Old 07-24-2012, 05:07 PM   #3060
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Location: spring hill, fl
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trade in

i got kbb excellent condition when i traded my wrangler to a chevy dealer for a 2011 camaro ss. now i expect the same thing on a new jeep. actually, it's the deal breaker for me.
we'll see soon.

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