Was watching Dirt Every Day on Youtube and they were upgrading a JKU with D60's and quoted the price at only 10.5k I expected it to cost a lot more. I believe that included lockers too.
$3918 G2 JK Rock Jock Dana 60 Rear Axle Assembly 5.13 Ratio 35 Spline Axles With Eaton E Locker
$7407 G2 JK Rock Jock Dana 60 Front Axle Assembly 5.13 Ratio 35 Spline Axles With Detroit Locker
Is it normal for the front axle to cost ~2x as much as the rear?
If you elect to not go full float you can get your exact bolt pattern so wheels are not an issue. It is a trade off but saves serious $$ (I have TR Beadlocks and don't want to spend another $2500 to replace them). Also depending you can order the D60 with a 1310 or 1350 yoke so if you are already running an aftermarket driveshaft (i.e. Adams) you don't have to swap driveshafts. I spent $4200 for my rear Dynatrak Pro Rock 60 with Eaton E-lockers, Ten Factory chromoly 35 spline shafts, 1350 pinion yoke and 5 on 5 bolt pattern. Since I already upgraded to oversize brakes and am using my brakes and rotors it is a direct bolt on. I have not opted to upgrade the front to a 60 yet (Rubicon axles) since I have spent a fortune on Reid Knuckles, RCV Shafts, Truss, C Gussets, drag link flip, ...) Until I start having problems it will be hard to justify replacing it.
Front axles cost more because they contain more parts. Axle shafts cost twice as much usually. You arent getting 35 spline chromoly shafts for less than $600. Add steering and you add a bunch of money.
60's are expensive. I have at least $5000 into my front 60 which is a lot compared to the $2000 in my 14 bolt.
If your are going to drop that kind of coin just go with the Mopar, Dynatrac portal axels. You could also source take off Dana 44s from a builder such as AEV or totaled out rubicon.
I'm about to pull the trigger on a new Currie D44 but now you guys got me thinking.
I have a modified D44 front Axle right now, Reed Knuckles, Gusseted/Trussed, bigger Brakes, Coil overs, Long Arm with about a 5" lift.
The Rear is also Gusseted /Trussed.
The issue Im having is the housing Angle because I have a PSC Hydro Assist I need more caster like +8 deg to slow down the "Darty" or "Quickness" when the wheel is turned, it's hard to explain until you drive a Jeep with Hydro Assist down the HWY.
I have tried 8deg. and it was pretty manageable but then I had a "Yoke" vibration issue so I had to return to about 6-1/2-7deg. I don't like the angle of the housing and driveshaft in full droop either I don't think it's going to last.
So when ordering a new housing you can add a few deg. to the housing and still have a safe driveline angle.
But then another issued might have reared it's ugly head, a friend following me the other day leaving the trail told me it looked like my rt rear wheel was turned in=Bent Axle housing, too me both sides look the same but they do tilt in a bit, so if thats the case I'll be moving on up to 60's ullinghair:
To keep from spending another $2000 plus on wheels? Or as in my case, I am going a ProRock D60 in the rear but keeping my built D44 in the front (trussed gussets, RCV Ultimates, Reid Racing Knuckles, Dynatrac Ball Joints,...) and I need bolt patterns to match so I only have to carry one spare. At some point if I can justify replacing the front I will convert the rear to 8 lug with a full float kit and add a matching front. I keep twisting axle shafts (32 spline Rubicon) in the rear with a trussed D44 with Chromoly shafts (running 37X13.50 PitBull rockers). I could have tried to go 35 spline on the D44 but I would have had to change the locker - or I can go with a ProRock D60 which gives me slightly better ground clearance than the D44, a bigger R&P and a new Eaton locker with 35 spline chromolies and much stiffer tubes. You may still call it crazy, but it is my money and I will spend it my way.
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