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Old 09-23-2010, 06:48 PM   #1
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3-Piece Hard top

Well today was the first day I decided to GO TOPLESS! Not totally but take the top of the drivers/pass seats. I must say,I thought it was very cool but they are a PITA! Not impressed.

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Old 09-23-2010, 07:20 PM   #2
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Really? I think they are super easy. I can do both in about 45 second and that includes putting them in the bag.

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Old 09-23-2010, 07:23 PM   #3
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They just take a little practice, and until you've driven completely topless and doorless, you haven't really driven a Jeep... Give it a shot! You'll love it....
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Old 09-23-2010, 07:49 PM   #4
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The only PITA thing to me is the screw ins (I swear the bolt is 15 ft long). I normally don't even put them back in if I'm not going too far. Doesn't leak with 'em out either. Anybody know if this is a no-no.
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Old 09-23-2010, 07:55 PM   #5
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The only PITA thing to me is the screw ins (I swear the bolt is 15 ft long). I normally don't even put them back in if I'm not going too far. Doesn't leak with 'em out either. Anybody know if this is a no-no.
I never put the screws back in, in fact I forgot about them altogether. Taking them out definitely makes it a PITA. Ive taken it through a high pressure car wash without them with no issues, no leaks. I just keep them in the glove box in case the need arises.
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Old 09-23-2010, 07:55 PM   #6
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I wouldnt recommend it, one good gust of wind could catch that rain gutter and rip em off.
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Old 09-23-2010, 08:09 PM   #7
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I wouldnt recommend it, one good gust of wind could catch that rain gutter and rip em off.
You think? I'd be curious to see how many people around here don't put them back in.
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Old 09-23-2010, 08:23 PM   #8
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I put them back in and its a pain! What I would like to know is how tight everybody cranks them down? Just snug em?
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Old 09-23-2010, 08:28 PM   #9
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Takes me about 3 minutes to take the top off. The bolts are the worst part but not that bad! I usually just snug the bolts when putting them back in.
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Old 09-23-2010, 08:30 PM   #10
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Are you people seriously gonna complain because you have to spend 30 seconds screwing in a knob. Think about the poor jeep owners that have 1 piece tops. God our world is lazy. How many of you complainers know how to turn your tv on without using the remote??
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Old 09-23-2010, 08:45 PM   #11
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I took my pins out months ago...went on a 5 day mountain and off road trip...no issues...Leave them off..
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Old 09-23-2010, 08:54 PM   #12
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Are you people seriously gonna complain because you have to spend 30 seconds screwing in a knob. Think about the poor jeep owners that have 1 piece tops. God our world is lazy. How many of you complainers know how to turn your tv on without using the remote??
Why would we want to add steps that we don't have to do? I hardly ever hit a highway unless I head into town to do something. Even then I'm only on the highway for about 5 miles. I used to just snug them down, but realized that it's not hurtin' anything leaving them out. There's not a chance any gust of wind is taking those things off with the L brackets engaged.

Question for you... Do you put your door hinge nuts back on every time you take off/put on the doors? Cause I also think that's a waste of time, but maybe I'm just lazy.
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Old 09-23-2010, 08:55 PM   #13
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I put them back in and its a pain! What I would like to know is how tight everybody cranks them down? Just snug em?
Definitely just snug 'em if you're putting them in. No reason to crank hard on them.
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Old 09-23-2010, 08:58 PM   #14
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I put the door nuts back in there but i dont tighten them. Just so i dont lose them. Those knobs seal your front pieces to the rear top. I seriously doubt that those L brackets create enough seal to keep a heavy rain out, or if your top gets covered in snow, water could leak in.
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Old 09-23-2010, 09:37 PM   #15
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I took my pins out months ago...went on a 5 day mountain and off road trip...no issues...Leave them off..
Pretty much. I drive everyday at around 75 mph, no issue. Have been through a high pressure car wash, no issue. And have sprayed the crack where they seal with a garden hose and still, no issue. I think I'd only put them in if I knew torrential rains were coming, or if I was going on a long road trip. Of course I have a 2010, maybe as the seals wear out the bolts will become a necessity?
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Old 09-23-2010, 09:42 PM   #16
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I took the bolts out soon after I got mine (June 1) and have not put them back in. Zero problems. My understanding is that you only need one of them (can't remember which) if you remove one panel but not the other because one side holds the other side down.
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Old 09-23-2010, 09:43 PM   #17
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sigh, i wish i had new seals
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Old 09-23-2010, 09:44 PM   #18
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You could very well be right about the snow that would just sit up there and try to get in. I'd definitely put them in for winter and I put them in if we're going to have a real rainy week, but otherwise they come out about everyday so they don't actually stay on that much.
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Old 09-24-2010, 06:19 AM   #19
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It was the first time I did it. Alot of diff than my 97 with a 1-piece. I think I def gotta get a soft top my next summer though. Not thrilled with the off/on thing with hard top.
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Old 09-24-2010, 07:15 AM   #20
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I installed the SpiderWeb shade a couple of weeks ago and left it in place put the hardtop back on. I couldn't screw the long bolts back in so I left the shade installed under the hardtop hoping that it wouldn't be a problem. We have had many days of hard rain from tropical storm Karl and so far no leaks. There is no wind noise and the latches that lock the three hard top pieces in place seem to be holding out just fine.
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Old 09-24-2010, 07:20 AM   #21
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You could just poke a couple of holes in the SpiderWeb to accommodate the bolts....
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Old 09-24-2010, 07:59 AM   #22
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I haven't had my bolts back in since i bought mine. Don't really see the need for them.
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Old 09-24-2010, 08:05 AM   #23
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You could just poke a couple of holes in the SpiderWeb to accommodate the bolts....
Yes, I thought about that....but was afraid that I would create the start of a tear. I was thinking about installing grommets where the bolts go. I would prefer to use the bolts...so I may go that route.
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Old 09-24-2010, 08:20 AM   #24
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Tearing really shouldn't be much of an issue, I don't think. The only problem I see with grommets is that there is only one layer of fabric there for the grommet to bite into. If you have some pet screen laying around, or any other reasonable weight fabric, you might cut a couple of squares of it to put between the grommet parts to reinforce them....
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Old 09-24-2010, 08:53 AM   #25
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If you have the hardtop ON, you should use the thumbscrews "fingertight"--they re-rinforce the integrity/security of the top and REDUCE flexing(cracks), when off-road--

With the top off and just using the "T" portions, the thumbscrews affirm the rear attachment, to the cross roll bar/soundbar and protect you from "LOSS"

Anyway, they should be used and just finger tight !!

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Old 09-24-2010, 09:37 AM   #26
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If you have the hardtop ON, you should use the thumbscrews "fingertight"--they re-rinforce the integrity/security of the top and REDUCE flexing(cracks), when off-road--

With the top off and just using the "T" portions, the thumbscrews affirm the rear attachment, to the cross roll bar/soundbar and protect you from "LOSS"

Anyway, they should be used and just finger tight !!

JIMBO
If you dont believe me, trust in jimbo and his technical wording wizardry!
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Old 09-24-2010, 09:49 AM   #27
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If you dont believe me, trust in jimbo and his technical wording wizardry!


Still can't !!

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Old 09-24-2010, 10:46 AM   #28
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I modified a hole saw that fits into my cordless drill and I have the bolts out and in within seconds. I use the cordless for all of the top bolts and door bolts.

Material: Cheapest 2" hole saw with arbor you can get, no pilot bit needed (we're not really drilling any holes here) Cheapo Harbor Fake Tools cordless drill to keep stashed in the ride.

Cut 1" wide slot (gap) halfway down the open end of the 2" hole saw with a band saw or other. Grind off teeth of hole saw. Install modified hole saw on drill arbor. Delete 1/4" center pilot bit and presto you have the Ronco Turbo 3000 Hard Top Bolt Extraction Gismo.

For a limited time you can purchase the TORX socket drive drive set with matching cordless drill drive adapters and you will be amazed at how fast you can remove the hard top and doors. Imagine how impressed you friends will be!
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Old 09-24-2010, 11:03 AM   #29
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I have my bikini top on now, but I took mine out day one and never put the screws back in........there isn't anything that is ripping those babies off!!!!
It took me forever the first few times I took them off and on, but it will be so easy once you get the hang of it!
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Old 09-24-2010, 11:11 AM   #30
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I modified a hole saw that fits into my cordless drill and I have the bolts out and in within seconds. I use the cordless for all of the top bolts and door bolts.

Material: Cheapest 2" hole saw with arbor you can get, no pilot bit needed (we're not really drilling any holes here) Cheapo Harbor Fake Tools cordless drill to keep stashed in the ride.

Cut 1" wide slot (gap) halfway down the open end of the 2" hole saw with a band saw or other. Grind off teeth of hole saw. Install modified hole saw on drill arbor. Delete 1/4" center pilot bit and presto you have the Ronco Turbo 3000 Hard Top Bolt Extraction Gismo.

For a limited time you can purchase the TORX socket drive drive set with matching cordless drill drive adapters and you will be amazed at how fast you can remove the hard top and doors. Imagine how impressed you friends will be!
NICE. I made something similar, but mines bent steel wire, is a hand crank, and is going to be replaced in the near future by a carved up PVC pipe end cap with a bolt melted through the center for a chuck. I like the hole saw, and you get full credit, but a PVC end cap is like a dollar, a bolt is sorta free, and the fabrication will be WAY easier on plastic We can call it the Ronco 2000 Hard Top Bolt Extraction Gismo.

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