I have been wanting to get out of my 335ic and into a Wrangler for some time now, and wonder if the waters are right.
I just called a Jeep dealer here in town and he said they dont have 0% on the Wranglers, and dosnt remeber the last time they did. I thought they were. humm
Also the 2010 Wrangler has a choice of warrenties. One is 5yr./100k. The other is lifetime with a decutable of $150. I thought the last time we were going to see lifetime was on the 2009's? $150 isnt bad at all. But I didnt ask when that kicked in. Now or after 36k miles?
So I owe about $34k on the BMW now. Trade in is at $32k. With retail being at $39. So I might be in the ball park.
My question is, how do you know if your getting a good deal with Jeep giving you $1000, and then the kick backs and rebates. Best thing I can think of is just cross shop 3-4 dealers in your area. Even at $x amount below invoice. There are financing that they get paid for too.
Im looking at a Sahara or Rubi. But if the numbers have to get lower, an X will do with lsd out back will do just fine Im sure. This will also be an Auto.
So what are your guys ideas on getting a good deal? Worst case is I just walk, and wait 10 months for Obama motors giving sweeter offers. I seen on the Jeep website they say you can get a tax rebate on 2009 Wranglers for your sales tax you had to pay. This isnt bad, but I would rather get 0% interest.
ps.. have you all notice how emoty these new car lots are these days? I mean like 40% of what they were not too long ago. The cash for clunkers are all piled up on the end of the lot about a football field long. While the new cars are spaced about 4-5 cars apart. And it still looks like they are outta business?
BMW said they keep all their new cars at port, so they dont have to pay on them,,,, is this true?
Maybe, are they any different? I cruised a dealership the other day and they had 5 wranglers in a row,, looked very cool. All had the rubi tires and wheels. All soft tops and they looked different. Like the front end was more rounded... looked nice.
maybe that was the 2010's? If I remeber right they did say Sport on the side.
So far they are taking $1500 Jeep discount, Plus $1500 dealer.
This is on a $29,950 msrp Sahara. Silver hardtop, no Nav. But has side air baggs.
They are still seeing what my car might bring.
Funny , the sales manager guy asked me if my 335i was front wheel drive,, and if it was a inline 4 or a V6....
Damnit,,,,,,,,,, this again,,, they know little to nothing about cars. lolol They being anyone in the f'ing car SALES business!!!!!!!!!!!
Wow- lots of questions in that OP.
First up, there is SOME bonus cash on the '09- $1500 this month.
The lifetime warranty they're offering on the '10 is aftermarket- make DAMN sure it's through Chrysler. If not, skip it- it's not worth the headaches.
Where are you located?
2010's are the only JK/LK with Sport models.
Sounds like that sales manager is a bit of a window licker, not knowing a thing about cars- yikes!
And I'm in the car business- just gotta find us few- we're the guys reading the car magazines at our desks, instead of jumping up and down for a dollar
If you plan on keeping it for life, get a 2009. If you want to trade it in, get a 2010. The transferable warranty on the '10 will give you a little more on the table when you sell it- Mark W.
$1500 off from sticker, plus $1500 rebate is pretty darn good. We would call that a good deal- the dealership makes a couple hundred bucks, you get a good deal. I won't advise to look for lower unless they offer- that's a solid offer out the door. If you get more off the new car, you're losing it on your trade- be assured. It's all a balance game.
As for the warranty, the 2010 comes with a 5 year, 100K mile transferable powertrain warranty. Any lifetime would either be through Chrysler, or another company. ONLY get one that's through Chrysler directly, otherwise it's often not worth the paper it's printed on. Check into that. As for when it kicks in for the deductible, that you'd have to talk to the F&I guys about- Mark W.
On a 2009 the worst you should do is $1500 under invoice, not MSRP. My local dealer is offering that up out of the shoot before negotiations. That may be as low as he can go but I think I (you) could do better.
^ 2 problems with that.
1. They WILL make money off of you somewhere. Period. You will qualify for 5.9% financing, they'll sell you at 7.9% Your trade's ACV is $12,500, they'll give you $10k The dealer NEVER loses. The salesmen lose when you deal like that, as does the next customer. Support local business- buy right.
2. I refuse to do those kind of deals. I work at a small dealership, and we will NEVER go under invoice (not including rebates). Selling cars is a BUSINESS. People who try to do business like that both devalue the vehicles, and make sure that some other customer gets beaten over the head to make up for your deal. Not cool.
We try to give a decent deal. We'll come down to $1,500 OVER invoice, MAYBE $250 if we know and like you. Holdbacks are what keep the lights on. Huge stores that deal in volume can dig into that SOME (not nearly as much as they used to be able to), but it's still not a good idea, or a good deal.
Read everything twice with your lawyer's glasses on, and talk openly with them. This is a business deal. If you enter a business partnership nickle and diming someone, they will NOT respect you, and they will NOT give you their best deal. Show respect, and you should get it returned. If not, go elsewhere- Mark W.
Not true. I've already told him I'm paying cash and won't be financing with him or through any other bank. I have no trade in. Still his offer is $1500 under invoice (the $1500 is the rebate, so in actuality he's selling to me at invoice).
Your argument about buying right, supporting local business and not screwing the next guy is completely bogus. It's his job to run a business and run it right. It's not my job to pay him extra because he may not be making himself a lucrative deal and it's not my job to make sure the next buyer doesn't get screwed. I look out for myself and do deals that are good for me. It's his job to offer me a deal that makes sense for him as well. If I came in and offered to pay full MSRP do you think he'd tell me I can do better than that? HELL NO!
Good for you, dude. Still, it's bad business on his part. While I agree that it's not your job to pay a dealership more than a vehicle is worth, it's still bad business.
Dealerships that do that, as I said, devalue the vehicle, and make business worse for the rest of us. Having to compete with idiots like that is why a lot of the smaller dealerships have gone out of business.
While I disagree with dealerships that rip people off, I enjoy where I work. We set a FAIR price (we sell to family at the same price as anyone else), use very low-pressure sales, and everybody leaves happy. As a salesman, I make a decent living, and am happy with my check (although if I sold a few more, I wouldn't complain ).
I've worked at huge stores (in Scottsdale, AZ), and you have to KILL the occasional customer to make a living. Otherwise, getting "mini" deals at $50 or $100 a pop (like the one you're so happy about) do not keep the lights on. That encourages the sales people to be more high-pressure and aggressive, which ends up with somebody losing. If not you, then the next guy. I don't buy that as a business plan. Some win, some lose? No thanks. I hated having to fight for hours with customers to get them into a vehicle for under invoice- not for the work, but for the fact that I had to deal with people like that. While getting a good deal IS important, are those last $500 (or ~$10 a month) REALLY worth hours of headaches and a stomach ulcer?
Hey- if it works for you, good for you. For me, I like things the old fashioned way. That's why I drive a Wrangler Mark W.
Just read your post elsewhere, husky. Realized- you're getting it at invoice, and he's not $1500 under invoice BEFORE rebates. You failed to make that clear- you meant AFTER rebates. Gotcha. That, then, is another story. Selling at invoice is not bad business. Forgive my lack of understanding, but given the facts presented, I had no way of knowing. That is still a reasonable deal, and one I'd support. Enjoy Mark W.
My latest over the phone offer was for invoice minus $1500 after rebates. I believe that is a decent deal. I will be heading there this Monday. I will be putting about 50% down and I will allow 'them' a chance to finance the rest.
I have no heart for the auto industry after the TaxPayer Bailout Fiasco.
Hey SoCal,,The Jeep dealer here in Nebr. said Jeep was having special financing of 3.9% now on the Wranglers? I didnt ask how long, or if it was from Jeep or not, I was on my bike all geared up and could barley hear the sales manager talking to me, also had my helmet on.
LOL,,,, they are hurting for business for sure, as I had about 4-5 sales people outside when I was there,, and the sales manager asking me why not test drive it now,, again I was on my bike, with new pipes on,,lol,,, I couldnt hear shit really.
But I did hear 3.9%,,,, I looked on the Jeep site,, no mention of that.
Thanks. Cash flow is not an issue right now. I realize the dealers get a kickback on financing and I have no problem with that, if their finance rate is reasonable. 3.9% would be a go for me. I am not sure what my credit union is offering. I will check tomorrow. If the dealer can get close, I would be happy. If not, I decline and move forward.
You can't get a 2-door with locking rear diff only- it's a limited slip. Still not a bad price.
Saharas do NOT come with locking diffs. Not sure where you got that, but it's 100% untrue. Open front and rear, with an optional LSD for the rear on some.
Only the Rubi gets front + rear lockers- Mark W.
it really is in a brochure he put up a link for but i think somebody was copy/pasting info from the rubi part that came first and forgot to delete the part about locking diffs. just a question duke do you think a lsd is worth it for a 2 door x or should i wait and get an air locker. btw the only real trouble i have offroad now in the desert is the sand so im wondering if a lsd or locker would be helpfull. also what would be the best way to find out if i have a lsd already or not. i know i have the 3.73 axle ratio so im wondering if i got the lsd too. i had the build sheet it was in the glovebox when i got the jeep but i cant find it now, of course.
2008 Wrangler X. K and N drop in filter and BFG Mud Terrains.
Well, the way I look at is this: mine is on-road 95% of the time, and off-road maybe 5% of the time. I want max traction for that 95%. I'm putting a Detroit Truetrac LSD in the rear of mine, and a selectable locker in the front. This way has a minimal effect on day-to-day driving, while adding a lot of traction that I can use anytime, whether on-road in snow or rain, or off-road on rocks and in mud- Mark W.