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Old 03-02-2012, 09:11 AM   #1
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33s setup with no power loss

Hey guys,

I know your sick of me posting about wheels and tires, but my truck is fun to drive now with the mods Ive made so far. I feel like its quick and light, and I dont want to put on wheels that make it heavy and slow.

Heres what Ive come up with and I want your opinions. Im going with the centerline smoothie wheel, (17x8 4.5 inch backspace) looks like heavy steel but its "forged" so im expecting it to be about the same weight as the factory wheels on my rubi. The issue is the tire.

The tires Ive come down to are the bf goodrich km2 in 255/80R17 I think this tire is the same width as stock but its 33.3 inches tall. The weight is 54 lbs. So overall that will put me about 7lbs over stock wheel weight.

I wanted to go with a 17x9 wheel, but the tires are all 60lbs even with a 33 inch tire when you get any wider.

Im planning to put a small spacer in the front to level it but no real lift.

What do you guys think? Potential problems? Am I kidding myself thinking the power change wont be noticeable?

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Old 03-02-2012, 09:20 AM   #2
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You'll lose a little power. Not so much from the extra weight (which sounds fairly negligible), but from the increased rolling resistance of the bigger tires.

However, I wouldn't expect it to be bad at all. In fact, with 4.10 gears and the 3.6L engine, my guess would be you'll hardly notice the change.

One thing's for sure, you'll have some unique wheels. I don't think I've ever seen a Jeep with wheels like that.

I say go for it.

And you're right about the tire size: 33.06" tall, 10.04" wide.

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Old 03-02-2012, 09:27 AM   #3
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How big a spacer do you think I need?
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Old 03-02-2012, 09:55 AM   #4
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I wouldn't worry about power loss with a 6 speed 2012 Rubicon when going to 33" tires. Unless they're full of concrete, I doubt you'll even notice.
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Old 03-02-2012, 09:59 AM   #5
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Is the picture you posted the rim?
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Old 03-02-2012, 10:02 AM   #6
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Is the picture you post the rim?

Yes thats the centerline smoothie rim. forged. Super heavy duty. Will handle a tire up to 44 inches.

Still as light as stock wheel
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Old 03-02-2012, 10:17 AM   #7
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I like it!
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Old 03-02-2012, 10:19 AM   #8
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Not my personal taste but if it works for you, works for me
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Old 03-02-2012, 10:27 AM   #9
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Interesting wheel. Please post pics when you get them mounted.
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Old 03-02-2012, 10:35 AM   #10
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Wow Pie??????

How did you come upon that wheel?

P255 arnt 33" tires thou also.

I have this same question about power lose,,, BUT

Im only debating the Duratracs and the Falken WildPeaks on 15" MB72's

And this debate is over 4lbs per tire.........VS.........the Falken being a much more quite ride on road.

I dont off road,, No parks, No fields, Nada around here. Other wise ya,, Duratracs.

Im about 95% sure Im getting the WildPeaks. Might even order today.

But ya,,,, I DONT want to see a POWER LOSE at all!

I Love the KICK my 12 has. : )
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Old 03-02-2012, 10:36 AM   #11
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Falken Wild Peaks are 54lbs.

Duratracs are 50lbs.

33x12.5 R15
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Old 03-02-2012, 10:42 AM   #12
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Have you considered just keeping the stock wheel? That's the tire I'll likely go with when I need a replacement for my factory supplied set.
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Old 03-02-2012, 10:53 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Twisky View Post
Is the picture you posted the rim?

Thats not the specific rim, Just a picture I found. Centerline is making my wheels now. I think that picture is of like a 20 inch rim. So mine will be smaller, but i wanted to give you an idea of what I was planning.
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Old 03-02-2012, 11:18 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 008 View Post
Have you considered just keeping the stock wheel? That's the tire I'll likely go with when I need a replacement for my factory supplied set.

I dont understand this post
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Old 03-02-2012, 11:22 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by PieFace View Post
How big a spacer do you think I need?
If they're 4.5" bs, you shouldn't need a spacer at all.

Or are you talking about a suspension spacer? If that's the case, I'd get the TeraFlex leveling kit. It'll give you 2" in front and 1" in rear, and fix your Jeep's factory rake. About $130, iirc. Very simple install.

I know you said you were only gonna put spacers on the front, but the 1" in rear w/the leveling kit will be necessary to keep your 33's from nibbling on your fenders when you offroad.
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Old 03-02-2012, 11:24 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 008 View Post
Have you considered just keeping the stock wheel? That's the tire I'll likely go with when I need a replacement for my factory supplied set.
Quote:
Originally Posted by PieFace View Post
I dont understand this post
Me neither.

008...your stock rims are 6.25" backspace, which means they're really tight against your Jeep. For aftermarket tires, you'll want new rims with 4.5" bs or less.

Sorry Pie.
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Old 03-02-2012, 11:25 AM   #17
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Word of advice...every 7500 miles or so, you need to remove your wheels and remove the caked brake dust on the rotor/caliper assembly. Having solid wheels prevents the dust from exiting, and it will begin to cake and gum up things under there. Don't neglect it.
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Old 03-02-2012, 11:28 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by silvrevo View Post
Wow Pie??????

How did you come upon that wheel?

P255 arnt 33" tires thou also.

I have this same question about power lose,,, BUT

Im only debating the Duratracs and the Falken WildPeaks on 15" MB72's

And this debate is over 4lbs per tire.........VS.........the Falken being a much more quite ride on road.

I dont off road,, No parks, No fields, Nada around here. Other wise ya,, Duratracs.

Im about 95% sure Im getting the WildPeaks. Might even order today.

But ya,,,, I DONT want to see a POWER LOSE at all!

I Love the KICK my 12 has. : )
I found them when i posted the picture of the steel stockton wheel from the jeep jt concept. (loved that). they were so heavy over 35 lbs. So i couldnt put them on. Soemone posted the picture of the centerlines and I was in love. I checked out their site and they dont post costs, and that made me think they were going to be 500 bucks a wheel but they turned out to be affordable. And they have to be made, so I kinda like that. Takes a while to get them tho. They come in chrome or polished. I went polished as im planning to powdercoat them. Black.
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Old 03-02-2012, 11:31 AM   #19
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You will have issues with those wheels. Brake dust build up, mud build up, and well as lack of brake cooling. Not the best choice for a daily driven vehicle and especially one used offroad. I am a big fan of Centerline forged wheels. Running them on my Raptor. Do yourself a favor and change your order.
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Old 03-02-2012, 11:36 AM   #20
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You will have issues with those wheels. Brake dust build up, mud build up, and well as lack of brake cooling. Not the best choice for a daily driven vehicle and especially one used offroad. I am a big fan of Centerline forged wheels. Running them on my Raptor. Do yourself a favor and change your order.

Because of the lack of holes in the rim? I dont think so. The holes in wheels are moving so fast that I doubt that air is moving through the holes in the wheels. The air comes from the underside of the truck. and the backspace on these wheels will mean that almost 2" of the innards will be more exposed to that air. Im pretty sure they will be fine.
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Old 03-02-2012, 11:48 AM   #21
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If they're 4.5" bs, you shouldn't need a spacer at all.

Or are you talking about a suspension spacer? If that's the case, I'd get the TeraFlex leveling kit. It'll give you 2" in front and 1" in rear, and fix your Jeep's factory rake. About $130, iirc. Very simple install.

I know you said you were only gonna put spacers on the front, but the 1" in rear w/the leveling kit will be necessary to keep your 33's from nibbling on your fenders when you offroad.
I am talking about a suspension spacer to level the truck. Id like to have it be as little as possible. Is 2inches the minimum i can raise th nose? I wanted to just put the 1inch in the front and call it a day.

Expect rear rubbing?
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Old 03-02-2012, 11:49 AM   #22
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Because of the lack of holes in the rim? I dont think so. The holes in wheels are moving so fast that I doubt that air is moving through the holes in the wheels. The air comes from the underside of the truck. and the backspace on these wheels will mean that almost 2" of the innards will be more exposed to that air. Im pretty sure they will be fine.
Good luck. My 30+ years of racing and car building tells me otherwise. If you are so concerned with weight savings why go with a solid wheel.
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Old 03-02-2012, 11:53 AM   #23
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I am talking about a suspension spacer to level the truck. Id like to have it be as little as possible. Is 2inches the minimum i can raise th nose? I wanted to just put the 1inch in the front and call it a day.

Expect rear rubbing?
The TF leveling kit comes with (4) 1" spacers for the front, I believe. If you wanted to, you could just install a single 1-incher at each wheel, and raise the front 1" instead of 2".

You could leave em off the back, as well, but if you wheel it eventually your tires are gonna hit your fenders, unless you trim them. You'd have to really baby it offroad to keep from doing fender damage.

Or you could just wheel the crap out of it, chew up the fenders, and buy flatties.
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Old 03-02-2012, 11:59 AM   #24
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Good luck. My 30+ years of racing and car building tells me otherwise. If you are so concerned with weight savings why go with a solid wheel.
I just love the look. I dont know why.

Maybe in a race car it would heat things up under race conditions where your hard on the brake and turns, but those are not the conditions i drive under. I use the gearbox to slow down a lot, and im not turning lap after lap. Also these wheels vs. the small windows in some other models like the black rocks I dont expect much of a difference.

I called centerline a few minutes ago to ask and the response I got was "your not in nascar".
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Old 03-02-2012, 12:54 PM   #25
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i've been spacer shopping today, and its a pain to find a good billet spacer. How badly do I need one?
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Old 03-02-2012, 01:23 PM   #26
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Because of the lack of holes in the rim? I dont think so. The holes in wheels are moving so fast that I doubt that air is moving through the holes in the wheels. The air comes from the underside of the truck. and the backspace on these wheels will mean that almost 2" of the innards will be more exposed to that air. Im pretty sure they will be fine.
You are incorrect. Heat and debris exit through the front of the wheel. The Mercedes Mclaren SLR turbine wheels are designed to make this even more pronounced, by SUCKING more air out. The pressure under the truck and outside the truck are different, which causes the effect.
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Old 03-02-2012, 01:48 PM   #27
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You are incorrect. Heat and debris exit through the front of the wheel. The Mercedes Mclaren SLR turbine wheels are designed to make this even more pronounced, by SUCKING more air out. The pressure under the truck and outside the truck are different, which causes the effect.
Winner! While testing an F350 tow rig I saw a 35% reduction in rotor temp going from a solid wheel to an open wheel. No other changes. May not be an issue for the OP but it would be for me.
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Old 03-02-2012, 01:52 PM   #28
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Going to 33's I lost a "little" power but lost "a lot" of gas mileage for reasons I don't understand. I am talking 20% loss.
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Old 03-02-2012, 01:57 PM   #29
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Going to 33's I lost a "little" power but lost "a lot" of gas mileage for reasons I don't understand. I am talking 20% loss.
Rolling resistance of the wider more aggressive tire.
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Old 03-02-2012, 02:13 PM   #30
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Also throwing out that a small increase in tire or wheel weight is a much larger increase in power/mpg loss compared to weight in the tub. Also, the larger the wheel/tire, aka futher distance from the center of the axle, also plays a part in the loss. Theres alot of math to say the least but let's suffice to say that a smaller lighter wheel with the lightest tire that gives you the best performance of your choosen size is what you want to look for.

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