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35 inch Tire Mod

31K views 32 replies 22 participants last post by  beachrat 
#1 ·
I'm new to jeep mods and I'm trying to figure out what is required to upgrade to 35 inch tires from 31 inch tires. I'd like to get 35s with a 2.5 inch lift. My main questions are do you need to regear and get a new rear tire carrier for the extra weight? If there is anything else required please let me know that also. In addition, any recommendations on 2.5 inch lifts. Thanks
 
#2 ·
There are a lot of people running 35's on stock gears (I was one) and although it isn't horrible, it isn't the best. I didn't regear until I installed the 37's and wished I had sooner.

There are also a lot of Jeeps hanging 35's from the stock tailgate, including those modded from the factory. It doesn't seem to be an issue for daily driver use, but any offroading will have that 35 adding additional stress to the gate. Aftermarket swing away carriers are nice, or the heavy duty aftermarket hinges work well if you want the factory look.

All depends on how you plan on using the Jeep.
 
#3 ·
I'm running 35s on the factory Rubicon/tow package gears and I actually prefer it for daily driving around town(manual transmission.) I always felt I had to shift out of first gear too early with the factory Rubicon wheels.
You can put a 35 on the rear, just make sure to extend the bumpstops on the tailgate so the weight is better distributed. On my first jeep I didn't do that and the tailgate/hinges started squeeking after a few thousand miles.
I think 2-2.5" lift is perfect for 35s. I have flat fenders with that amount of lift and have recently been thinking that I may go to 37s. I just know that I will have to spend a good amount of money on supporting mods to make it work.
 
#16 · (Edited)
I just put on 35" KM2's and am thinking about the Mopar Big Brake Kit as the next upgrade. Maybe re-gearing after that.

As for extending the bump stops - good idea - I had not thought of that. Does anyone offer those off-the-shelf, or did you mod the existing ones?

Edit: Never mind! Found lots of re-work suggestions on this forum as well as others!
 
#4 ·
I'm actually waiting on my first set of 35"s to be delivered. They're going on a fresh Teraflex 2.5" coil/spring lift. To my knowledge, there are many on this forum running the Teraflex setup as it is a very good one. If you do the 2.5" lift with the 35" tires, it is highly recommended that you also upgrade your front track bar with an adjustable (and beefier) track bar. It will help you center your front axle after your lift and provides far more stability in your steering input. Good luck!
 
#6 ·
Which gears do you have now? 3.21, 3.73 or 4.10(Rubicon)?

3.21 I would regear for 35's. If not, your acceleration will be terrible, and crawling offroad may be difficult.

3.73 or 4.10 you would be ok, but may want to eventually regear to 4.56 or 4.88. Good time to consider lockers and such (if non-Rubicon)

If you are going for a true 35x12.5 tire and do go off-roading, I would upgrade the tire carrier.

You may want to consider strengthening the front axle if you do any moderately serious wheeling.
 
#7 ·
I have 4.10's and an automatic transmission with 35" tires. It seems to run great in all aspects with the 4.10's. I have no plans on regearing at all, unless I decide to go to 37's.

I agree with above, if you're running 3.21's, drive it around first before making any decision, but you will probably not be satisfied with the results.

I ran the stock tire carrier for a while before upgrading, I highly recommend upgrading it, especially going offroad or living in a pot-hole infested city.
 
#9 ·
I've driven lifted rigs with 3.21's as well as 4.10's (AEV JK350 is a 4.10 set-up)
the 3.21's after calibration aren't horrible.

IMO - and I will follow this advice..... when/If I lift and go to 35's I will drive around on 4.10's :)
 
#10 ·
IMO 35's are perfect for a 2 door JK. Any problem I can't solve on 35's is more of a problem than I'd care to take on with larger tires... but that's just me. My Rubi has a stick and 4.10 gears and think it's a damn good all around setup for 35's.

(The only time it sucks is in 6th overdrive on Cascade mountain passes. I end up dropping down to 5th and pulling the pass at 55 instead of 60. Fine by me.)
 
#14 ·
Dealers in my area mod new jku sport wranglers with lightweight 35 inch tires and a 2.5 lift on 3.21 gears. They include the superchips flashcal for the tire change to the speedo. I test drove one to see if I was a pig. Surprisingly it wasn't bad at all. Got up to speed fairly quickly. They put the 35 tire on the tire carrier as well with different tire stops. My suggestion would be to do the lift and tires first, drive it and see how it goes and carry on from there. Im not sure what model you have our what gears you're running.
 
#15 ·
I've been running 35s with 3.21 gears on my 2014 JKU for months, and love the set up, both on and off road. I do light to moderate trails but nothing extreme, i.e. rock crawling, if you're in the same boat you should do well without re-gearing.

You will need an aftermarket tire carrier if you intend to keep your spare on the outside. I tried to use the stock carrier but heard the sounds of metal creaking and bending when going over bumps after a few days, so I went with the Teraflex oversized carrier and the tire is rock solid, no issues since.

Depending on the type of off roading you plan on doing you may wish to beef up other components but I have little experience with that so others will chime in I'm sure.
 
#19 ·
I can't imagine the 3.21's on 35's. I have 3.73's with 35's and it was a huge difference in acceleration when I went from factory 32's. I am out of overdrive all the time now on moderate hills that it use to pull just fine with the 32's. It's not too annoying, but 3.21's would never work for me on 35's.
 
#26 ·
100% agree with this. I have 4.10's and around town or on the trail it is not an issue. On the highway though if gets a sniff of a hill or a head wind it's down to 5th. A really bad head wind, 40+ mph and it can be down to 4th gear.
 
#20 · (Edited)
What I did (just one guy's opinion/approach) is:
1. Starting from stock (for me = 4.10 gears & 32" tires)
2. Lift 2.5" (Rock Krawler 2.5" stock mod + bilstein 5100 shocks, extended brake lines, 3" bump stops, rear sway bar link).
3. DRIVE IT FOR A WHILE.
4. After #3, realize I want 35s. I do rock crawl, etc.
5. Not wanting to risk axle or tailgate damage (given rock crawling):
5a. Artec front axle armor kit (truss & gussets, etc.).
5b. Teraflex rear tire carrier
6. Bought new wheels & tires. I didn't want to squeeze 35s onto the factory 7.5 wide wheels.
7. NEXT: DRIVE IT FOR A WHILE, then 90% likely re-gear to 4.88.

--Gordon
 
#21 ·
I went the route of 2.5" Teraflex coil lift first with stock rubi wheels and tires, then just upgraded tires to 35x12.50R17 KM2's. Only mounted 4 though and kept stock tire on back for now bc the Teraflex tire carrier will be my next purchase. Doesn't look horrible. I'm also running 3.21 gears right now and the ride isn't as bad as I read it would be on forums. Still a Regear is in the near future but after a tire carrier and a winch.

Teraflex 2.5" coil lift with stock rubi tiresome spacers
Land vehicle Vehicle Car Jeep Tire


With 35x12.50R17 KM2's
Land vehicle Vehicle Car Jeep Automotive tire


35's with stock wheel on back
Land vehicle Vehicle Car Automotive tire Jeep
 
#30 ·
I've heard you want to at least look into gusseting the C's on the axle if you go to 35's. Of course I've also heard so many opinions on that I'm not sure how critical it is unless you're doing serious rock crawling (like Rubicon every other weekend) vs. mild/moderate stuff. Then you read stuff like "the factory 32's can bend the C's on potholes" and it makes you paranoid all over again.
 
#32 ·
Take what you read online with a grain of salt. I have 3.21s with 35s and love the set up. I am quicker off the line than a honda civic or mazda 3 which is good enough for me, I didn't buy a wrangler for speed. I come across people on here who find 35s with 3.73 gears unbearable.

You already know you're getting 35s. Your best bet is to install the tires first, drive around with the gears you have for a few weeks both on and off road, then decide on the gears for YOUR needs from there.
 
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