35" tires no lift? - Jeep Wrangler Forum
Jeep Wrangler Forum

Go Back   Jeep Wrangler Forum > JK Jeep Wrangler Forum > JK General Discussion Forum

Join Wrangler Forum Today


Reply
 
Thread Tools

Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about them on WranglerForum.com
Old 02-27-2014, 07:30 AM   #1
Jeeper
 
SouthernHammer92's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Posts: 18
35" tires no lift?

Anyone have this setup? Did you have to regear? Any scrubbing at all? Or is it just better to go ahead and get the 2.5" lift?

SouthernHammer92 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 02-27-2014, 07:46 AM   #2
NO MALLCRAWLER NO MORE!

WF Supporting Member
 
mommymallcrawler's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Scottsdale, Arizona
Posts: 2,247
I would not do 35s without a lift. Of course I am sure someone does, but its their Jeep and just because you "can" doesnt necessarily mean you should. And you would need to nix the factory fender flares and get flatties for sure.

What gearing do you have now?

I am still undecided if I want to go 33, 34 (heard some brands do a 34-ish) or 35. I am pretty definite on the 2.5 lift tho to give me those options, and I dig flat fenders anyhow. I have 3.73 and would seriously most likely regear if I went 35. I also either way plan to armor at least the front axle or both at the same time, and beef up I think it is the C joints(?).

And remember with 35s you will need to replace the tire carrier so factor that into the budget.

__________________
Newbies Mandatory First Jeep Mod...
Get it naked, get it dirty and play with it!
________________________________________________
2013 JKU Sport (Flame Red) RETIRED
2014 JK Rubicon (Granite)
mommymallcrawler is online now   Quote Quick Reply
Old 02-27-2014, 08:02 AM   #3
Jeeper
 
WebDevDan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: St. Louis, MO
Posts: 478
You'll need flat fenders or cut stock fenders if you plan on going over speed bumps, and proper offset/backspacing to avoid rubbing on anything. A lot of people also recommend welding gussets onto the axle C's if you plan on taking it off road.

I was thinking about 35's but I'm settling on 33's (33x12.5 Duratracs on 15x8 with -19 offset is a VERY popular combination here on the forum) due to my 3.21 gearing. If you've got a 2-door and no lift, 33's will fill the wheel well plenty.

Also,

Don't forget about reprogramming with a pro-cal or similar device to adjust your speedo.
WebDevDan is online now   Quote Quick Reply
Old 02-27-2014, 08:06 AM   #4
Jeeper
 
Antonio_jku's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 898
Quote:
Originally Posted by WebDevDan View Post
You'll need flat fenders or cut stock fenders if you plan on going over speed bumps, and proper offset/backspacing to avoid rubbing on anything. A lot of people also recommend welding gussets onto the axle C's if you plan on taking it off road. I was thinking about 35's but I'm settling on 33's (33x12.5 Duratracs on 15x8 with -19 offset is a VERY popular combination here on the forum) due to my 3.21 gearing. If you've got a 2-door and no lift, 33's will fill the wheel well plenty. Also, Don't forget about reprogramming with a pro-cal or similar device to adjust your speedo.
Or get really freaking stiff springs
Antonio_jku is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 02-27-2014, 09:54 AM   #5
Jeeper
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: NE Indiana
Posts: 170
I ran my 35s for about a week without a lift (4.5 BS wheels). I trimmed the air dam and I rubbed on the rubi rails on potholes or big bumps, but other than that it was fine. I wouldn't recommend it long term though.
ccarrico29 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 02-27-2014, 10:05 AM   #6
Jeeper
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Posts: 59
My dad ran 35s without a lift for a few days before he got the lift. 3.73 gears, and he trimmed the air damn. No rubbing while sitting still but I'm sure he did at full lock or potholes. Wouldn't recommend it. Don't think you need to regear with 3.73 but maybe with 3.21
Jyveturkey is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 02-27-2014, 10:06 AM   #7
Jeeper
 
Old Dogger's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Phoenix, Rattlesnake Country
Posts: 3,249
For on highway, pull your Air Dam, flat fenders, and at least 4.5 wheel Backspacing, but still expect a occasional rub! A 2.5" is recommended!

For off Road, No, no, and no.........

Gearing and axle housing re-enforcement is another issue!!!!!!!!!!!


33s will work.......
Old Dogger is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 02-27-2014, 12:04 PM   #8
Jeeper
 
SouthernHammer92's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Posts: 18
How do I find out what gears I have?
SouthernHammer92 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 02-27-2014, 12:06 PM   #9
Supporting Member

WF Supporting Member
 
lee indy's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Middle Georgia
Posts: 5,239


35s no lift. tires came in first. rubs like hell on everything and every bump.

get the 2.5 or chop the fenders
__________________



LeeIndy's Build Thread
lee indy is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 02-27-2014, 12:15 PM   #10
Supporting Member

WF Supporting Member
 
Gunner's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Seal Beach
Posts: 6,953
Quote:
Originally Posted by lee indy View Post


35s no lift. tires came in first. rubs like hell on everything and every bump.

get the 2.5 or chop the fenders
What he said. My 35's came in and they went on. I rubbed them on everything. My Rubi rail was the worst offender. Soon as I cut that it was way better but I still had troubles going into or out of driveways. 3.5 lift on mine now and they work great. 37's come next.
Gunner is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 02-27-2014, 04:04 PM   #11
Jeeper
 
spinlock's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: 37.9° N, 121.7° W
Posts: 2,997
You will get limited benefits from running 35's with zero lift so if it's just a timing issue it will work temporarily with the mods presented above but long term you should get the lift kit.
__________________
"A man has got to know his limitations."
H. Callahan
spinlock is online now   Quote Quick Reply
Old 02-27-2014, 05:55 PM   #12
The Infamous One

WF Supporting Member
 
donmeca2020's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Hollywood, florida
Posts: 2,593
i've read numerous threads on here people riding without a lift and 35s with NO ISSUES at all....

While alot will preach get a lift and do this and do that. its not necessary. If you plan on doing quite abit of off roading and flexing then YES go for a lift. if your will be mainly on the road and some light trails then i wouldn't think its necessary. just by changing fenders and removing the air dam in the front will be more then doable.
__________________
2014 Copperhead Pearl Wrangler Unlimited Sport

" Revenge is never about the greater good. It’s a visceral need that has to be satisfied or the strong lose focus. "
donmeca2020 is online now   Quote Quick Reply
Old 02-27-2014, 06:19 PM   #13
Jeeper
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Burbank, CA
Posts: 329
Quote:
Originally Posted by donmeca2020 View Post
i've read numerous threads on here people riding without a lift and 35s with NO ISSUES at all....

While alot will preach get a lift and do this and do that. its not necessary. If you plan on doing quite abit of off roading and flexing then YES go for a lift. if your will be mainly on the road and some light trails then i wouldn't think its necessary. just by changing fenders and removing the air dam in the front will be more then doable.
Let's see one thread….



.
__________________
THE DESERT FILES

FIND MY BLOG IN MY PROFILE

http://www.wranglerforum.com/members...wk-152359.html
socalwk is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 02-27-2014, 11:22 PM   #14
Jeeper
 
jeep_n_co's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 187
I am running 35's with no lift. I would hardly call it "trouble free".

The base problem is that at full stuff the rear wheels are not centered in the wheel well. Instead, the wheel is visually centered in the wheel well at stock static height. Additionally, the MT/Rs are known for being exactly 35".

Because of the un-centered axle, the tire gets into un-trimmable areas of the inner fender well.

By stretching the control arms one inch, the rear wheel is centered in the wheel well at full compression. You still will need to trim the pinch seam and the Rubi rails, but that is easy and minor work.

I found myself having to to a lot of reconfiguring when stretching the wheelbase.

In order to move the axle back 1", you need to relocate (cut off and re-weld) the frame mount of the rear track bar

In order to relocate the track bar, you need to relocate the rear sway bar (MetalCloak sells adapters that work for this).

In order to relocate the rear sway bar, you should really move the rear muffler.

In order to put the muffler in that driver's side tunnel, you need to relocate the evap canister.

That doesn't even address the driveshaft, which I know on mine needs to be replaced... does it need it because of the stretch, or the mileage (90k), or just because the stock one is a POS, I just don't know for sure.

It's all stuff that I wanted to do anyway, but it took some time to get it all sorted and honestly it would have just been "easier" to throw some kinda lift on there.

Sacrifice one inch in tire size by sticking to a 305/70/17 and you skip all these problems... you just need a fender trim and 1.5" spacers (if sticking to stock wheel backspacing).

(Most of the above was copy pasta from other threads I have posted in about the subject)

And, since everyone likes pics...





jeep_n_co is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 02-27-2014, 11:55 PM   #15
Jeeper
 
jeep_n_co's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 187
To drive the point home, the sweet spot for flat fender no lift is the 305/70/17 tire size. Again, all that is required is fender trim, spacers, and trim or remove front air dam. That's it.

If I had it all to do over again, I would have stuck with that size instead of upgrading to 35.

Here are some pics at that size:





jeep_n_co is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 02-28-2014, 09:45 AM   #16
Jeeper
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Farmington Hills, MI
Posts: 49
Quote:
Originally Posted by donmeca2020 View Post
i've read numerous threads on here people riding without a lift and 35s with NO ISSUES at all....

While alot will preach get a lift and do this and do that. its not necessary. If you plan on doing quite abit of off roading and flexing then YES go for a lift. if your will be mainly on the road and some light trails then i wouldn't think its necessary. just by changing fenders and removing the air dam in the front will be more then doable.
Heres your bullshit award.
MrJones944 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 02-28-2014, 10:16 AM   #17
Supporting Member

WF Supporting Member
 
lee indy's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Middle Georgia
Posts: 5,239
Quote:
Originally Posted by jeep_n_co View Post
I am running 35's with no lift. I would hardly call it "trouble free".

......
and all that can be fixed witha small lift.
__________________



LeeIndy's Build Thread
lee indy is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 02-28-2014, 01:29 PM   #18
Jeeper
 
jeep_n_co's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 187
Quote:
Originally Posted by lee indy View Post
and all that can be fixed witha small lift.
As noted in my post. Or by sticking to 305/70/17s.
jeep_n_co is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 02-28-2014, 05:38 PM   #19
The Infamous One

WF Supporting Member
 
donmeca2020's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Hollywood, florida
Posts: 2,593
Quote:
Originally Posted by socalwk View Post
Let's see one thread….



.
Quote:
Originally Posted by MrJones944 View Post
Heres your bullshit award.
LandiJeep HAS BEEN DOING IT for awhile now... He is planning on getting a lift sooner or later but he has been driving around and hasn't had one issue yet. Check his build thread.

I don't need to search for you morons do i ?

not quite sure how long either of you been on this forum, but i've been looking at lifting and NOT lifting and just throwing 35s on my wrangler since June of last year.

there are NUMEROUS THREADS on here asking about no lift with big tires, and as my post previously said, IT CAN AND HAS BEEN DONE ALREADY......
__________________
2014 Copperhead Pearl Wrangler Unlimited Sport

" Revenge is never about the greater good. It’s a visceral need that has to be satisfied or the strong lose focus. "
donmeca2020 is online now   Quote Quick Reply
Old 02-28-2014, 06:15 PM   #20
Jeeper
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Burbank, CA
Posts: 329
Ummm…where is the thread? I highly doubt he has 0 issues.


.
__________________
THE DESERT FILES

FIND MY BLOG IN MY PROFILE

http://www.wranglerforum.com/members...wk-152359.html
socalwk is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 02-28-2014, 06:48 PM   #21
Jeeper
 
marslim's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Alberta
Posts: 731
Images: 3
The better question is why would anyone purposely set a Jeep up this way?? If you put extended bumpstops, and wheels with the right offset id imagine it would be ok on the street but useless on the trail as you'd have extremely limited flexing capabilities
__________________
"Opinions are like like a**holes everyone has one"

35" Hankook MT's, 1.5" RK lift, Rancho 9000's, bushwacker flatties, F&R Dana 44's w RCV's, chromoly shafts, 5.13 gears, factory lockers, Ace sliders & rear bumper, RR front bumper Q9000 winch
marslim is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 02-28-2014, 07:11 PM   #22
Jeeper
 
Padfoot's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: New Hampshire
Posts: 64
Quote:
Originally Posted by jeep_n_co View Post
I am running 35's with no lift. I would hardly call it "trouble free".

The base problem is that at full stuff the rear wheels are not centered in the wheel well. Instead, the wheel is visually centered in the wheel well at stock static height. Additionally, the MT/Rs are known for being exactly 35".

Because of the un-centered axle, the tire gets into un-trimmable areas of the inner fender well.

By stretching the control arms one inch, the rear wheel is centered in the wheel well at full compression. You still will need to trim the pinch seam and the Rubi rails, but that is easy and minor work.

I found myself having to to a lot of reconfiguring when stretching the wheelbase.

In order to move the axle back 1", you need to relocate (cut off and re-weld) the frame mount of the rear track bar

In order to relocate the track bar, you need to relocate the rear sway bar (MetalCloak sells adapters that work for this).

In order to relocate the rear sway bar, you should really move the rear muffler.

In order to put the muffler in that driver's side tunnel, you need to relocate the evap canister.

That doesn't even address the driveshaft, which I know on mine needs to be replaced... does it need it because of the stretch, or the mileage (90k), or just because the stock one is a POS, I just don't know for sure.

It's all stuff that I wanted to do anyway, but it took some time to get it all sorted and honestly it would have just been "easier" to throw some kinda lift on there.

Sacrifice one inch in tire size by sticking to a 305/70/17 and you skip all these problems... you just need a fender trim and 1.5" spacers (if sticking to stock wheel backspacing).

(Most of the above was copy pasta from other threads I have posted in about the subject)

And, since everyone likes pics...





last pic is amazing
__________________
LIVE JEEP OR DIE
Padfoot is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 02-28-2014, 07:14 PM   #23
Jeeper
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: LA
Posts: 1,262
I'm posting from my phone. There are some pics in my thread. Link should be in my signature. The thread is in the build section of the forum. I have a second thread in the build section specifically devoted to this topic. Look for "315/70/17 or 35/12.5/17 on a stock JKU"

There is a good bit of opinion on this matter. I created the thread to let people know that it CAN be done. Whether one wants to or not; it's their own preference. That's what makes us all different here and yet the same.

I've been on 315/70/17s for about five months now. I haven't gone off pavement with this set up. I don't plan on going trail riding without a lift.

I haven't been wishing to regear; because I have a 2014 JKU Sport with 3.73 rear axle ratio and six speed manual transmission.

It hasn't lost its on road manners. I had a slight pulling to the left when I first put the tires on, but that corrected with swapping of the front tires.

Ride hasn't been soft as stock; but we all know that issue with mud terrain tires. I'll be addressing this with rancho adjustable shocks this summer. I was going to upgrade to these regardless being that I have a sport.

Rubbing was a big problem with the stock air dam. At first I wanted to go with flatties like Rugged Ridge or trim my stock ones. I ended up going a different route on that. I picked up a set of Sahara fenders that I had color matched last week. I'll be putting these on after Mardi Gras. With the air dam removed; I rub only when I hit a pothole that I couldn't avoid or that dip in the road going about 40 mph or so. This will be gone once I do my lift around May or so.

I have no issues with regards to functionality of my rig as I use it currently. My commute to work is only a couple minutes in each way. I would NOT be on this set up if I had a 30 min or longer commute each way.

You don't NEED to upgrade the stock carrier for 35s. I haven't put mine on there because, as I mentioned, I'm riding few mins around town. I WANT a new bumper/carrier; but that's a separate issue. The reason people talk about this being a need to upgrade is because they are mounting the 35in spare incorrectly on the stock set up. Plenty of read about that here on the forum as well.
__________________
2014 Anvil JKU Mutt
landi jeep is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 02-28-2014, 07:46 PM   #24
Jeeper
 
jeep_n_co's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 187
Quote:
Originally Posted by Padfoot View Post
last pic is amazing
Thanks

Quote:
Originally Posted by marslim View Post
The better question is why would anyone purposely set a Jeep up this way?? If you put extended bumpstops, and wheels with the right offset id imagine it would be ok on the street but useless on the trail as you'd have extremely limited flexing capabilities
No different flex than stock... I have not needed to increase bumpstop, there is PLENTY of stock uptravel once you address the axle centering (or, even better, not addressing it if staying at 305/70/17).

Quote:
Originally Posted by landi jeep View Post
There is a good bit of opinion on this matter. I created the thread to let people know that it CAN be done. Whether one wants to or not; it's their own preference. That's what makes us all different here and yet the same.

I've been on 315/70/17s for about five months now. I haven't gone off pavement with this set up. I don't plan on going trail riding without a lift.

I haven't been wishing to regear; because I have a 2014 JKU Sport with 3.73 rear axle ratio and six speed manual transmission.

It hasn't lost its on road manners. I had a slight pulling to the left when I first put the tires on, but that corrected with swapping of the front tires.

Ride hasn't been soft as stock; but we all know that issue with mud terrain tires. I'll be addressing this with rancho adjustable shocks this summer. I was going to upgrade to these regardless being that I have a sport.

Rubbing was a big problem with the stock air dam. At first I wanted to go with flatties like Rugged Ridge or trim my stock ones. I ended up going a different route on that. I picked up a set of Sahara fenders that I had color matched last week. I'll be putting these on after Mardi Gras. With the air dam removed; I rub only when I hit a pothole that I couldn't avoid or that dip in the road going about 40 mph or so. This will be gone once I do my lift around May or so.

I have no issues with regards to functionality of my rig as I use it currently. My commute to work is only a couple minutes in each way. I would NOT be on this set up if I had a 30 min or longer commute each way.

You don't NEED to upgrade the stock carrier for 35s. I haven't put mine on there because, as I mentioned, I'm riding few mins around town. I WANT a new bumper/carrier; but that's a separate issue. The reason people talk about this being a need to upgrade is because they are mounting the 35in spare incorrectly on the stock set up. Plenty of read about that here on the forum as well.
That answers socalwk's questions about zero issues. It sounds like plenty of issues if one intends to go off-road.

Landi Jeep, I ran with no tire carrier and the 35" for several months... eventually, the metal of the tailgate fatigues and you will encounter issues. I did, and that's why I have the Or-Fab on it now. Forgot to address that in my "going to 35's" screed above... another point for sticking to 305/70/17s.

One thing to remember is many tires classified as 35" tires definitely fall short of the stated height. As I mentioned somewhere in my post, the MT/R Kevlars are known for being on the high side of overall mounted height, so with that tire you encounter more issues. I may have had to take measures that others running a 315 don't encounter.
-------------------------------------------------------

So, I guess the real question is "why does the OP want to know?" That will provide the context of the advice.

Does the OP want to know if he can run his new 35's while waiting a short period to install an eventual lift?

Does the OP want to know if he can run them on the street, never intending to go off-road but strictly for looks?

Or, does the OP want to know how he can run 35" tires effectively off-road without issue?

Each purpose dictates a totally different answer.

How willing is OP to take a sawzall to his jeep? How much welding does he want to do/pay for? That contributes to the answer as well.

Personally, I love my setup, both off-road and on. Oh yes, I off-road. All of the mods I had to do are within the price of a "decent" lift, and many of the mods fall into the "if you are going to seriously off-road your jeep, you want to do them anyway" category. I have recently added 4dr Rubi springs which gave me far more lift that I anticipated, and I think with my current setup I can stuff 37" tires under there if I add a little bumpstop, trim a little more and lose the waffle board in the front fender wells (drivetrain changes not withstanding, I have axles ready to build for that size sitting in my garage).

Would a lift have been easier? Sure, it is a path that is more often traveled and has more people working on making that solution rock solid. I have no issues with that, I just went a different route.
jeep_n_co is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 03-01-2014, 05:18 AM   #25
Jeeper
 
NKHammer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Orange County
Posts: 84
Do it right the first time. Lift first then do the 35's.
NKHammer is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 03-01-2014, 06:21 AM   #26
MallCrawler

WF Supporting Member
::WF Moderator::
 
kjeeper10's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 34,757
Quote:
Originally Posted by jeep_n_co View Post
I am running 35's with no lift. I would hardly call it "trouble free". The base problem is that at full stuff the rear wheels are not centered in the wheel well. Instead, the wheel is visually centered in the wheel well at stock static height. Additionally, the MT/Rs are known for being exactly 35". Because of the un-centered axle, the tire gets into un-trimmable areas of the inner fender well. By stretching the control arms one inch, the rear wheel is centered in the wheel well at full compression. You still will need to trim the pinch seam and the Rubi rails, but that is easy and minor work. I found myself having to to a lot of reconfiguring when stretching the wheelbase. In order to move the axle back 1", you need to relocate (cut off and re-weld) the frame mount of the rear track bar In order to relocate the track bar, you need to relocate the rear sway bar (MetalCloak sells adapters that work for this). In order to relocate the rear sway bar, you should really move the rear muffler. In order to put the muffler in that driver's side tunnel, you need to relocate the evap canister. That doesn't even address the driveshaft, which I know on mine needs to be replaced... does it need it because of the stretch, or the mileage (90k), or just because the stock one is a POS, I just don't know for sure. It's all stuff that I wanted to do anyway, but it took some time to get it all sorted and honestly it would have just been "easier" to throw some kinda lift on there. Sacrifice one inch in tire size by sticking to a 305/70/17 and you skip all these problems... you just need a fender trim and 1.5" spacers (if sticking to stock wheel backspacing). (Most of the above was copy pasta from other threads I have posted in about the subject) And, since everyone likes pics...
Nice

You do not have to relocate the TB mount. Find a adjustable tack bar that runs stick length with a heim end. RK moves the axle back 1" with minor mods.

As mentioned.
- flat fares
- remove air dam
- stubby front bumper
- increased bump stop
- pinch seam

A small leveling kit is ideal but I see no reason why it wouldn't work. Run longer shocks with the longer bumpstops to add some down travel.
__________________
2007 Rubicon/Rock Krawler triple rate 2.5" coils/RK rear TB w/ a teraflex raised bracket/Rancho 9000 31/32XL shocks/Synergy flipped draglink,ball joints,tie rod /Hankook MT 315-75-16 on Level 8 ZX's/Rancho geo brackets/Ruff stuff uppers/Fox ATS stabilizer/Adams front DS/Artec front armor w/ Currie upper bushings/Rancho cat back exhaust.

Lifting your JK? Read this!!



Click HERE to become a WranglerForum Supporting Member!
kjeeper10 is online now   Quote Quick Reply
Old 03-01-2014, 11:38 AM   #27
The Infamous One

WF Supporting Member
 
donmeca2020's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Hollywood, florida
Posts: 2,593
Straight from the horses mouth ladies.....

Once again it can be done, and you can travel on pavement OF COURSE the air dam should be removed, and replace your stock fenders or cut them. AS I SAID IN MY FIRST POST. but now as you all see its BEEN DONE AND PROVEN IT CAN BE DONE.

Let's be realistic, not everyone wants a lift or financially cant get one for whatever their reasons may be. I myself won't end up doing one, because my JKU is garaged and i'm pretty certain it won't fit in the entrance of it.

some "older" guys won't lift because its too much of a PITA to get up high in their vehicle. to each is own quite frankly.
__________________
2014 Copperhead Pearl Wrangler Unlimited Sport

" Revenge is never about the greater good. It’s a visceral need that has to be satisfied or the strong lose focus. "
donmeca2020 is online now   Quote Quick Reply
Old 03-01-2014, 11:47 AM   #28
Jeeper
 
Old Dogger's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Phoenix, Rattlesnake Country
Posts: 3,249
It's plane and simple, 33s no lift, 35s with a 2.5' lift!
Old Dogger is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 03-01-2014, 12:16 PM   #29
Jeeper
 
jeep_n_co's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 187
Quote:
Originally Posted by kjeeper10 View Post
You do not have to relocate the TB mount. Find a adjustable tack bar that runs stick length with a heim end. RK moves the axle back 1" with minor mods.
At 1" stretch at stock height, the rear frame side TB bracket will hit the spring pad on the axle. If the spring pad wasn't there, it would be hitting the axle tube itself, which would be bad. In my case, it had to be moved, had nothing to do with the track bar itself.

By RK, are you talking about a lift kit? If so, different animal. If not, would be interested in how they solved the issue without physically relocating the bracket.

I want to make my position clear because sometimes when presenting a wall'o'text post subtext can get lost:

Want 35's without major mods? Lift.
Want biggest tire possible with no lift and flats? 305/70/17
Want to tinker because its fun and you like to see what's possible? Do what you like!

I fall into that 3rd category.

jeep_n_co is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Jeep Wrangler Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.



Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off




» Network Links
»Jeep Parts
» Featured Product

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 11:16 AM.



Jeep®, Wrangler, Liberty, Wagoneer, Cherokee, and Grand Cherokee are copyrighted and trademarked to Chrysler Motors LLC.
Wranglerforum.com is not in any way associated with the Chrysler Motors LLC