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Old 08-21-2013, 09:06 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PieFace View Post

i hope this guy^ comes back to read this...

Do not do what your talking about doing. HUGE ROOKIE MISTAKE.

go straight to 35s. If there is anything you dont like, it will be your gears.

after a year, you will think the 35s are small.

everyone I know who went 33s first, upgraded to at least 35s within a year.

Look a the 315 duratrac, its an AT 34. thats the minimum size tire if your going to pay for tires.

just my humble opinion
It's all a matter of opinion. I was told every day don't get 33s you'll hate them or you'll regret having them once you put them on. I'm 100% satisfied with my 33s and like you said within a year you'll think 35s are small. It's just the common mind set to always want bigger. Go with 33s and be happy

Here's mine with 33s


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Old 08-21-2013, 09:25 PM   #32
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Agreed, not saying don't go with 35's but not everyone regrets 33's I too am very happy with mine and I'm actually glad I didn't go to 35's... Saves alot of stress on drivetrain less power loss, better fuel mileage, less chance of losing out on warranty... And the times I've been stuck on 33's I highly doubt being on 35's would have made any difference... I have to admit though I find they do look kinda small on a 4Dr, look great on 2Dr though


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Old 08-22-2013, 11:55 AM   #33
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I started with 33s- ran them for about 5 mos. with 3.21s. With my 3" lift 33s looked puny and I hated the lug- even with 33s. Re-geared, and swapped for 35s. Happy as a clam. But on a 2" lift, 2 door, especially with 3.21s I'd go 33s. But I wasted a lot of $$ starting with (3.21s!) and 33s.
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Old 08-22-2013, 12:22 PM   #34
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I have 2012 JKU Automatic with 35x12.50x17 and 3.21 gearing. Strictly on a highway for few hours, the best I get is 16.5MPG.
I am looking to re-gear in the future, but in the meantime pretty much everybody told me (including dealer) that the 2012 Auto is strong enough to pull with 3:21 gear ratio.

As far as driving, on-road and off-road, I have completely no complains. Its strong and accelerate surprisingly good and I can cruse 70MPH at 2K RPM.

If I would to re-gear to 4:XX or even 5:XX, it would help me with MPG, but I was told that the aftermarket gearing will be more loud than stock, and this is if it’s done the right way!
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Old 08-22-2013, 12:35 PM   #35
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I am running the 3.21 on my 2013 JKU and it is a dog. I have my Yukon 5.13's going in this weekend and can't wait. My gears are totally off at this point with 37's but I new that when I lifted it a couple of weeks ago. I drove my buddies 2012 rubi last night and it felt like a race car compared to mine, BUT not for long!!!! I can't wait to get my power back!!!
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Old 08-22-2013, 12:46 PM   #36
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I have 2012 JKU Automatic with 35x12.50x17 and 3.21 gearing. Strictly on a highway for few hours, the best I get is 16.5MPG.
I am looking to re-gear in the future, but in the meantime pretty much everybody told me (including dealer) that the 2012 Auto is strong enough to pull with 3:21 gear ratio.

As far as driving, on-road and off-road, I have completely no complains. Its strong and accelerate surprisingly good and I can cruse 70MPH at 2K RPM.

If I would to re-gear to 4:XX or even 5:XX, it would help me with MPG, but I was told that the aftermarket gearing will be more loud than stock, and this is if it’s done the right way!
Wow wrong information on so many levels. Gear ratio isn’t about stronger vs. weaker to push or pull anything. The 3.21 is a street only gear ratio. Think of the rotations it takes to spin your tires vs. the size of the tires. The 3.21’s come on sports with what 29” tires? It takes 3.21 rotations to spin that 29” tire 1 time, now you just added 35” tires, a lot bigger than 29’s. now that extra rotational mass doesn’t make a full rotation in that 3.21 gear ratio. That’s why you lose final gear/OD and your speedo is off. Also why there is a chart and a range of what gear ratios should be given a tire size. There isn’t an exact right answer to what the ratio should be. Some guys want better mpg, some guys want more performance on or off road.

On the 3.6L Pentastar I would want at least 4.10 to push my 35’s but probably would re-gear to 4.56. At no point are 3.21 ok to push 35’s. I guarantee you lost your crawl.

Also aftermarket gears being louder if set up properly??? LMAO. No way…Incorrect. You will hear and feel no difference (except for in performance of course).

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Old 08-22-2013, 12:47 PM   #37
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Originally Posted by Chx beach 79 View Post
I am running the 3.21 on my 2013 JKU and it is a dog. I have my Yukon 5.13's going in this weekend and can't wait. My gears are totally off at this point with 37's but I new that when I lifted it a couple of weeks ago. I drove my buddies 2012 rubi last night and it felt like a race car compared to mine, BUT not for long!!!! I can't wait to get my power back!!!
You have 37's currently with 3.21? Wow I bet it is a dog. 5.13 is pretty deep on a '13. You'll be able to chirp them 37's...

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Old 08-22-2013, 12:49 PM   #38
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I literally feel like I lost 50% of my power when I added bigger tires. I ordered the gears when I did the lift and tires but can't get them installed until this weekend. I feel like I'm going to break something with the 3.21's. I can't wait until they are in!!!! From my understanding the 5.13 should put it to around what a 4.10 is with stock tires???? What do you think?
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Old 08-22-2013, 01:26 PM   #39
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Originally Posted by Chx beach 79 View Post
I literally feel like I lost 50% of my power when I added bigger tires. I ordered the gears when I did the lift and tires but can't get them installed until this weekend. I feel like I'm going to break something with the 3.21's. I can't wait until they are in!!!! From my understanding the 5.13 should put it to around what a 4.10 is with stock tires???? What do you think?
Those 5.13 are going to be pretty deep on a '13. That ratio is good for the pre '12 with an auto transmission and 35's. The sweet spot for 37's on an auto 12 or 13 would be 4.88, in my opinion. 5.13's won't hurt anything though. You will be real quick off the line and have a super slow crawl when off road. You'll probably be able to spin them 37's.

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Old 08-22-2013, 01:29 PM   #40
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Originally Posted by mallaki View Post
I have 2012 JKU Automatic with 35x12.50x17 and 3.21 gearing. Strictly on a highway for few hours, the best I get is 16.5MPG.


If I would to re-gear to 4:XX or even 5:XX, it would help me with MPG, but I was told that the aftermarket gearing will be more loud than stock, and this is if it’s done the right way!
With Daniel M here. If a shop told you aftermarket gears would be loud, run, don't walk away. The only reason gears make noise (gear whine) is because the gears weren't shimmed or pre-loaded correctly on install. Pattern check is all it takes. Don't get me wrong- a good pro can install them a little off and some whine can still occur. But a sweeping generalization like that is cause to find another shop.
Its probably different in a manual-not arguing there- but in an automatic gears make a BIG difference on the trail. Rubi's come with 4.10s for a reason- and its not because they think you'll upgrade the tires.
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Old 08-22-2013, 01:32 PM   #41
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Those 5.13 are going to be pretty deep on a '13. That ratio is good for the pre '12 with an auto transmission and 35's. The sweet spot for 37's on an auto 12 or 13 would be 4.88, in my opinion. 5.13's won't hurt anything though. You will be real quick off the line and have a super slow crawl when off road. You'll probably be able to spin them 37's.

-Dan
I agree- but then again I like a little extra oomph too- so its all good.
This is my favorite gear tool- all the charts only show 70 MPH. This allows you to calculate at all speeds. Found it to be pretty accurate for my 4.56s.
Gear Ratio Calculator
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Old 08-22-2013, 01:39 PM   #42
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I agree- but then again I like a little extra oomph too- so its all good.
This is my favorite gear tool- all the charts only show 70 MPH. This allows you to calculate at all speeds. Found it to be pretty accurate for my 4.56s.
Gear Ratio Calculator
Thanks! This is helpful.
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Old 08-22-2013, 01:43 PM   #43
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You'll want to check- but I think Jeeps are "Dodge NAG1" if remember. ("Enter Your Own Numbers".
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Old 08-22-2013, 01:44 PM   #44
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You'll want to check- but I think Jeeps are "Dodge NAG1" if remember. ("Enter Your Own Numbers".
Perfect
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Old 08-22-2013, 01:46 PM   #45
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Yes, the WA580 is the Dodge NAG-1 on the site.
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Old 08-22-2013, 01:58 PM   #46
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From when I pecked around in excel I kinda figured 35's and 4:88s would be a pretty decent combo. That's what I will go with once my 33's wear out.
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Old 08-22-2013, 04:23 PM   #47
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So the bottom line here:
Is it worth spending 1K on re-gearing??

I have 2012 JKU with 35" and 3.21. I am almost convinced to re-gear to 4.88 - Yukon brand (made in Korea) as there are NO USA Made regardless of what anybody tells you.
The whole thing will cost me around 1K if not a little more with tax. I drive on-road and sometimes take it off-road. I am from NYC and the closest off-road is Rausch almost 4h away.

I am ok with the way my jeep drives now. Different people will tell you completely different things on this and other forums. You have to believe someone. I am getting mixed information. I know that to be on the "safer" side it’s wise to re-gear, however, is it worth to send 1K??

What are the real benefits?

1. Will my MPG improve?
2. Am I in risk to kill my transmission?
3. Will it be lauder with new gears (again, different people will have different say here. I even talked to Dynatrac, Ring & Pinion and few more) and it looks like it will be a bit lauder!

Anyway, I know it’s probably better to re-gear. I don’t want to be one of these: “I don’t know what that is but I know I f***n need it”

So, again I will repeat. Is it worth spending 1K on re-gearing?
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Old 08-22-2013, 04:25 PM   #48
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Wow wrong information on so many levels. Gear ratio isn’t about stronger vs. weaker to push or pull anything. The 3.21 is a street only gear ratio. Think of the rotations it takes to spin your tires vs. the size of the tires. The 3.21’s come on sports with what 29” tires? It takes 3.21 rotations to spin that 29” tire 1 time, now you just added 35” tires, a lot bigger than 29’s. now that extra rotational mass doesn’t make a full rotation in that 3.21 gear ratio. That’s why you lose final gear/OD and your speedo is off. Also why there is a chart and a range of what gear ratios should be given a tire size. There isn’t an exact right answer to what the ratio should be. Some guys want better mpg, some guys want more performance on or off road.

On the 3.6L Pentastar I would want at least 4.10 to push my 35’s but probably would re-gear to 4.56. At no point are 3.21 ok to push 35’s. I guarantee you lost your crawl.

Also aftermarket gears being louder if set up properly??? LMAO. No way…Incorrect. You will hear and feel no difference (except for in performance of course).

-Dan
So the bottom line here:
Is it worth spending 1K on re-gearing??

I have 2012 JKU with 35" and 3.21. I am almost convinced to re-gear to 4.88 - Yukon brand (made in Korea) as there are NO USA Made regardless of what anybody tells you.
The whole thing will cost me around 1K if not a little more with tax. I drive on-road and sometimes take it off-road. I am from NYC and the closest off-road is Rausch almost 4h away.

I am ok with the way my jeep drives now. Different people will tell you completely different things on this and other forums. You have to believe someone. I am getting mixed information. I know that to be on the "safer" side it’s wise to re-gear, however, is it worth to spend 1K??

What are the real benefits?

1. Will my MPG improve?
2. Am I in risk to kill my transmission?
3. Will it be lauder with new gears (again, different people will have different say here. I even talked to Dynatrac, Ring & Pinion and few more) and it looks like it will be a bit lauder!

Anyway, I know it’s probably better to re-gear. I don’t want to be one of these: “I don’t know what that is but I know I f***n need it”

So, again I will repeat. Is it worth spending 1K on re-gearing?
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Old 08-22-2013, 05:55 PM   #49
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1. Completely worth it! $1K is a good estimate. Parts will be around $600 and labor will be another $5 - 600. 4.88 will be amazing in your jeep. Your MPG will improve, you will feal the power again, you won't notice those 35's. I went with Yukon too.

2. You aren't at risk of killing your transmission now

3. They shouldn't be any louder if installed correctly.

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Old 08-22-2013, 06:25 PM   #50
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I don't know where you guys are getting all the parts to regear for $600 but let me know...$600 will get you just the ring and pinion. Remember if you are going from 3.21 you will need all the parts for the carriers and the install kits. Everything ran me around $900 for just the parts, and that was straight from Yukon (Randy's ring and pinion). Then labor. And don't forget if you are going from a 3.21 you will need the parts to run a limited slip for additional $400 or a locker additional $700-$1,000 plus labor, I will be lucky to get out of there spending $2200 with labor.
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Old 08-23-2013, 01:48 PM   #51
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I don't know where you guys are getting all the parts to regear for $600 but let me know...$600 will get you just the ring and pinion. Remember if you are going from 3.21 you will need all the parts for the carriers and the install kits. Everything ran me around $900 for just the parts, and that was straight from Yukon (Randy's ring and pinion). Then labor. And don't forget if you are going from a 3.21 you will need the parts to run a limited slip for additional $400 or a locker additional $700-$1,000 plus labor, I will be lucky to get out of there spending $2200 with labor.
Limited slip or a locker is not required or needed to change gears- if that's what you mean. Makes sense while you are in there though.
$600-$700 in G2 gears, carrier, install kit.
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Old 08-23-2013, 05:14 PM   #52
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Limited slip or a locker is not required or needed to change gears- if that's what you mean. Makes sense while you are in there though.
$600-$700 in G2 gears, carrier, install kit.
That's not a bad price... I didn't think to look into the g2's. As far as the limited slip or locker, you are right it doesn't have to be done. IMO it's not worth lifting it and putting big tires on it if it doesn't have at least a limited slip. Unless of course it is used strictly for shows or some sort of advertising. Plus it won't really add much more time to labor doing while regearing but if it is done later it will cost almost as much labor as the regear itself. Just my 2 cents, I could be way off base.
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Old 08-23-2013, 05:26 PM   #53
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That's not a bad price... I didn't think to look into the g2's. As far as the limited slip or locker, you are right it doesn't have to be done. IMO it's not worth lifting it and putting big tires on it if it doesn't have at least a limited slip. Unless of course it is used strictly for shows or some sort of advertising. Plus it won't really add much more time to labor doing while regearing but if it is done later it will cost almost as much labor as the regear itself. Just my 2 cents, I could be way off base.
Totally agree on the locker or LSD. But so many people slap on big tires just for looks....they wouldn't know what a locker or LSD is for. (Trippin'?).

Got the G2s from Rebel Off Road for the best price. At that time G2 was one of the only places that had 4.56s- and had them in stock.
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Old 08-23-2013, 08:42 PM   #54
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I think something to think about for you guys getting serious about regearing is lockers while you're in there.

I learned this the "hard way".

On my XJ, I was in deep for going up to 4.56:1. I had spent the money on lift, tires, SYE, custom driveshaft, rear disk conversion, and I cut a corner by getting a "lunchbox" easy locker for the rear and leaving the front diff. open.

I should have either done a bigger budget selectable locker (air), or gone with the Eaton true trac front and rear as a solid compromise.

Just something to think about for your application / plans.
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Old 08-23-2013, 09:27 PM   #55
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Wow wrong information on so many levels. Gear ratio isn’t about stronger vs. weaker to push or pull anything. The 3.21 is a street only gear ratio. Think of the rotations it takes to spin your tires vs. the size of the tires. The 3.21’s come on sports with what 29” tires? It takes 3.21 rotations to spin that 29” tire 1 time, now you just added 35” tires, a lot bigger than 29’s. now that extra rotational mass doesn’t make a full rotation in that 3.21 gear ratio. That’s why you lose final gear/OD and your speedo is off. Also why there is a chart and a range of what gear ratios should be given a tire size. There isn’t an exact right answer to what the ratio should be. Some guys want better mpg, some guys want more performance on or off road.

On the 3.6L Pentastar I would want at least 4.10 to push my 35’s but probably would re-gear to 4.56. At no point are 3.21 ok to push 35’s. I guarantee you lost your crawl.

Also aftermarket gears being louder if set up properly??? LMAO. No way…Incorrect. You will hear and feel no difference (except for in performance of course).

-Dan
Dan, gear ratio is about mechanical advantage so yeah, it is about stronger to pull something. The speedo is off because it is all calibrated by rotations per mile using the output at the transfer case so changing the tire size or gear ratio messes it up. Cheap aftermarket gears may and probably will be noisier than OE gears and a numerically higher gear ratio has a tendency to be louder than numerically lower gear ratio simply because the pinion gear is spinning faster. If you don't have a rubicon transfer case, you got no crawl...
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Old 08-24-2013, 09:40 AM   #56
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I will be taking my jeep to Globex Performance in Toms River, NJ.
Not to spam or advertise them, but this is what they advertise in the 1K package:

this is the picture of the Special (yes, its still going) and below is the link to another forums thread:
Took my XJ to Globex Performance in Toms River NJ.... - Page 2 - JeepForum.com
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Old 08-24-2013, 09:44 AM   #57
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I will be taking my jeep to Globex Performance in Toms River, NJ.
Not to spam or advertise them, but this is what they advertise in the 1K package:

this is the picture of the Special (yes, its still going) and below is the link to another forums thread:
Took my XJ to Globex Performance in Toms River NJ.... - Page 2 - JeepForum.com
That is a heckuva deal! I wish I had someone local that would do that! That is for both axles?
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Old 08-24-2013, 10:16 AM   #58
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I will add the front and rear lockers options as mentioned above. As far the Limited Split Differential LSD, do I have that on my Jeep 2012 JKU Sport or not. Is the LSD same as or similar to Traction Control?
here is screen capture of little of my MSRP
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Old 08-24-2013, 10:21 AM   #59
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I will add the front and rear lockers options as mentioned above. As far the Limited Split Differential LSD, do I have that on my Jeep 2012 JKU Sport or not. Is the LSD same as or similar to Traction Control?
here is screen capture of little of my MSRP
With a 3.21 it does not come with a limited slip. I have the same set up.
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Old 08-24-2013, 10:50 AM   #60
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how much different is that from Traction Control? (TC or ETC)??

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