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Old 08-24-2013, 12:53 PM   #61
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Originally Posted by mallaki View Post
how much different is that from Traction Control? (TC or ETC)??
Your stock traction control has BLD which very similar to a LSD except you have it front and rear, and it uses the brakes to stop each wheel instead of the wheels mechanically stopping.

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Old 08-24-2013, 01:16 PM   #62
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There is a US-made gear in 4.88. US Gear. They use a different/softer steel and cost ~twice as much ($400+ per axle). In 4.56, it is all made by CHA in Korea and re-boxed for different manufacturers (Yukon, G2, Nitro...), from what I understand.

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So the bottom line here:
Is it worth spending 1K on re-gearing??

I have 2012 JKU with 35" and 3.21. I am almost convinced to re-gear to 4.88 - Yukon brand (made in Korea) as there are NO USA Made regardless of what anybody tells you.
The whole thing will cost me around 1K if not a little more with tax. I drive on-road and sometimes take it off-road. I am from NYC and the closest off-road is Rausch almost 4h away.

I am ok with the way my jeep drives now. Different people will tell you completely different things on this and other forums. You have to believe someone. I am getting mixed information. I know that to be on the "safer" side itís wise to re-gear, however, is it worth to spend 1K??

What are the real benefits?

1. Will my MPG improve?
2. Am I in risk to kill my transmission?
3. Will it be lauder with new gears (again, different people will have different say here. I even talked to Dynatrac, Ring & Pinion and few more) and it looks like it will be a bit lauder!

Anyway, I know itís probably better to re-gear. I donít want to be one of these: ďI donít know what that is but I know I f***n need itĒ

So, again I will repeat. Is it worth spending 1K on re-gearing?

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2014 JKU Rubicon- all white with tan leather

LOD front bumper, AEV rear bumper, TeraFlex tire carrier, Shrockworks sliders, Method Standard wheels, 35" MTR Kevlars, Englewood driveshafts, Synergy 3" Lift, Rancho 9000XLs, Artec truss, Teraflex C-gussets, Grabars, HotHead Liners, MORE dead pedal, Tuffy underseat box, Uniden 520 XL, 10lb CO2 tank...
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Old 08-24-2013, 02:09 PM   #63
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You'll be fine. I have 3.21's with 35x12.50x15's an a 2.5" lift an mine pulls just fine. Also got 19.3 mpg on my last tank of gas

I call BS on this one.
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Old 08-24-2013, 03:31 PM   #64
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I call BS on this one.
You can call bs all you want. I know what my jeeps setup is an what mpg I'm gettin last tank was half highway at 60 mph an half city an got 19.3 mpg. I usually average around 18.3 mpg mostly all city driving
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Old 08-24-2013, 03:33 PM   #65
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You can call bs all you want. I know what my jeeps setup is an what mpg I'm gettin last tank was half highway at 60 mph an half city an got 19.3 mpg. I usually average around 18.3 mpg mostly all city driving
Did you recalibrate for tire size? Possibly over calibrate. Are you driving mostly downhill?
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Old 08-24-2013, 03:41 PM   #66
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Did you recalibrate for tire size? Possibly over calibrate. Are you driving mostly downhill?
Correctly calibrated to 33.5" which is how tall my bfg km1's are mounted on the jeep an I'm sounded by mountains an I'm in pretty hilly terrain but I do drive with a light foot
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Old 08-24-2013, 03:45 PM   #67
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You can call bs all you want. I know what my jeeps setup is an what mpg I'm gettin last tank was half highway at 60 mph an half city an got 19.3 mpg. I usually average around 18.3 mpg mostly all city driving
I have an unlimited with 3.21 and auto (2013) with 33" tires and I always get around 20mpg hand figured. I calculate every tank full so I believe you are getting what you say. I recalibrated mine with AEV procal and both speedo and odometer are spot on.
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Old 08-24-2013, 08:53 PM   #68
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That's not a bad price... I didn't think to look into the g2's. As far as the limited slip or locker, you are right it doesn't have to be done. IMO it's not worth lifting it and putting big tires on it if it doesn't have at least a limited slip. Unless of course it is used strictly for shows or some sort of advertising. Plus it won't really add much more time to labor doing while regearing but if it is done later it will cost almost as much labor as the regear itself. Just my 2 cents, I could be way off base.
To have the Yukon gears installed would cost me $1,000.00.
With front and rear Yukon Zips lockers (plus needed ARB CKSA12 Air Compressor and sPod 6 switches system) it comes up to almost $3,800.00.

so, as you can see its a big step in $$$
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Old 08-24-2013, 09:42 PM   #69
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There is a US-made gear in 4.88. US Gear. They use a different/softer steel and cost ~twice as much ($400+ per axle). In 4.56, it is all made by CHA in Korea and re-boxed for different manufacturers (Yukon, G2, Nitro...), from what I understand.
NONE of the aftermarket gears for JKU are made in the USA!
I have researched that for some time now. The U.S Gear 4.88 are NOT made in the USA!!
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Old 08-24-2013, 10:30 PM   #70
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I don't know where you guys are getting all the parts to regear for $600 but let me know...$600 will get you just the ring and pinion. Remember if you are going from 3.21 you will need all the parts for the carriers and the install kits. Everything ran me around $900 for just the parts, and that was straight from Yukon (Randy's ring and pinion). Then labor. And don't forget if you are going from a 3.21 you will need the parts to run a limited slip for additional $400 or a locker additional $700-$1,000 plus labor, I will be lucky to get out of there spending $2200 with labor.
Do you have to get new spider gears when going from the 3.21 carrier to the 3.73&up carrier? I heard you didn't have to...
What parts (if any) can you reuse from a practically new (stock) 3.21 geared Dana 30? Thanks,

Pablo
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Old 08-24-2013, 10:34 PM   #71
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Do you have to get new spider gears when going from the 3.21 carrier to the 3.73&up carrier? I heard you didn't have to...
What parts (if any) can you reuse from a practically new (stock) 3.21 geared Dana 30? Thanks,

Pablo
you are correct you do not need new spider gears.
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Old 11-12-2013, 11:37 AM   #72
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Drove a 2013 Sahara yesterday with 2.5" lift, 3.21 and Toyot Open Country AT'2 35's. The Jeep did not have the ProCal done yet.

It really did not seem sluggish at all and it cruised along at 65-70 on the interstate with no searching for OD. Just an observation....from a newbie,
the trails could reveal a much different story. On the street very tolerable.

I guess its all what you want out of the Jeep...having said this. I am on the calendar for an install of an AEV 3.5" lift and BFG AT's 315/70/17 on AEV Argents and ProCal.
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Old 11-13-2013, 03:27 PM   #73
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Regear!!! It woke my Jeep up!!! You won't regret it!!!!
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Old 11-13-2013, 03:48 PM   #74
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[QUOTE=BILLET SILVER;6065586]Drove a 2013 Sahara yesterday with 2.5" lift, 3.21 and Toyot Open Country AT'2 35's. The Jeep did not have the ProCal done yet.

It really did not seem sluggish at all and it cruised along at 65-70 on the interstate with no searching for OD. Just an observation....from a newbie,
the trails could reveal a much different story. On the street very tolerable.

I guess its all what you want out of the Jeep...having said this. I am on the calendar for an install of an AEV 3.5" lift and BFG AT's 315/70/17 on AEV Argents and ProCal, and a future re-gear.
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Old 11-15-2013, 01:51 PM   #75
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Originally Posted by BILLET SILVER View Post
Drove a 2013 Sahara yesterday with 2.5" lift, 3.21 and Toyot Open Country AT'2 35's. The Jeep did not have the ProCal done yet. It really did not seem sluggish at all and it cruised along at 65-70 on the interstate with no searching for OD. Just an observation....from a newbie, the trails could reveal a much different story. On the street very tolerable. I guess its all what you want out of the Jeep...having said this. I am on the calendar for an install of an AEV 3.5" lift and BFG AT's 315/70/17 on AEV Argents and ProCal.
2 door or 4 door?

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