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Old 03-09-2012, 12:55 PM   #1
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35x12.5R15 what else is needed?

I could be making the jump to 35s here soon and after reading and talking with many I would like to know if there are things I need to get or do once I put them on. I understand the gear debate (I'm currently in the wait and see because of my choice in tires) however are there things that are critical do upgrade or change to do this safely? And before any comments on how many sets of tires fellow board members go through, I'll save time and say this will be no#6.

Here are the specs:

35x12.5R15 BFG AT Load "C" @ 54lbs each
35x12.5R15 BFG KM2 Load "C" @ 61lbs each

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Old 03-09-2012, 12:59 PM   #2
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Just keep in mind, the larger tires can put more stress on stock components, i.e. ball joints. The previous owner of my rig put 35x12.50x17 BFG KM2 on and I had to replace the ball joints at 21000 miles, both lower were completely shot.

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Old 03-09-2012, 12:59 PM   #3
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Getting?

Thought they were out of stock??

(km2)

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ESP- what do you think of the Kumho MT's?
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Old 03-09-2012, 01:02 PM   #4
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Have you looked into sleeves and gussets. I know you wheel yours semi-often, so may be something to think about. If I remember right, you have a '10. So you can pick up a Superchips tuner as well.
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Old 03-09-2012, 01:02 PM   #5
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The 35x12.5R17 KM2s weigh 68lbs each vs the 35x12.5R15 BFG ATs 54lbs. Do you think the ball joints would still need to be addressed since there is a 70lb difference between these sets?
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Old 03-09-2012, 01:05 PM   #6
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Quote:
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The 35x12.5R17 KM2s weigh 68lbs each vs the 35x12.5R15 BFG ATs 54lbs. Do you think the ball joints would still need to be addressed since there is a 70lb difference between these sets?
That I don't know. I used the Synergy Ball Joints and the difference between those and the stock ones, its like night and day.
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Old 03-09-2012, 01:22 PM   #7
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That I don't know. I used the Synergy Ball Joints and the difference between those and the stock ones, its like night and day.
I wish I could find out or not because it's whats been keeping me from buying them until I know.
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Old 03-09-2012, 01:27 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ESP View Post
The 35x12.5R17 KM2s weigh 68lbs each vs the 35x12.5R15 BFG ATs 54lbs. Do you think the ball joints would still need to be addressed since there is a 70lb difference between these sets?
with what you're proposing, you're so close to the factory (rubicon) wheel weight (15's) that i personally wouldn't worry about it.

but yeah, you're definitely going to feel the power loss. i just threw my 315/75 r16's on (34.5 measured on my Jeep) and with the 3.73 i feel it. next two mods: rear bumper and tire carrier... then front axle sleeved and gussett with new 4.88 yukon gears and detroit lockers probably.. .

i can't wait to see how much that's gonna run... my old lady's gonna kill me. gotta die of something, right?!?

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Old 03-09-2012, 01:34 PM   #9
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Old 03-09-2012, 01:46 PM   #10
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To everyone here:

I know I've been through a lot of set ups but its really been fun and honestly not that expensive. I have always sold the tires I've had for next to the price paid and in some instances I've been able to sell them for more and then buy another set for less and made money in the deal. This time would be no different. With the weight of the BFG ATs being so close to the rubi KMs I'm trying to figure if a spare tire carrier upgrade is even necessary in addition to sleeves, gussets, ball joints etc?

All in all I have really liked changing up the tires as I've done and I have a lot of experience wheeling multiple sets now that I feel is good to share with others considering a purchase. It's also been fun to learn what effect each has had on my JK. Thanks for all the help!

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with what you're proposing, you're so close to the factory (rubicon) wheel weight (15's) that i personally wouldn't worry about it.
Yep stock Rubi KMs on OEM wheels = 73lbs
35x12.5R15 BFG ATs on 15" wheels = 74lbs
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Old 03-09-2012, 01:50 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ESP
To everyone here:

I know I've been through a lot of set ups but its really been fun and honestly not that expensive. I have always sold the tires I've had for next to the price paid and in some instances I've been able to sell them for more and then buy another set for less and made money in the deal. This time would be no different. With the weight of the BFG ATs being so close to the rubi KMs I'm trying to figure if a spare tire carrier upgrade is even necessary in addition to sleeves, gussets, ball joints etc?

All in all I have really liked changing up the tires as I've done and I have a lot of experience wheeling multiple sets now that I feel is good to share with others considering a purchase. It's also been fun to learn what effect each has had on my JK. Thanks for all the help!
Factory ball joints are crap.

Mine does seem ok... Very minimal up and down on the bottom joint. Not expecting these to last long though

The AT's in stock? (thinking)
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Old 03-09-2012, 01:53 PM   #12
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the spare tire carrier i'm going to say yes to... maybe not because of weight either. I can bolt my new wheel on the tire carrier, but my tailgate wont close... the tire (at 34.5") hits the bumper..

maybe you just get this... Smittybilt 2743 - Smittybilt Oversized Tire Carrier in Black for 07-12 Jeep® Wrangler & Wrangler Unlimited JK - Quadratec

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Old 03-09-2012, 09:32 PM   #13
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That's not bad weight for 35's for either class of 35's (AT/MT) but you still have the extra radius which will stress the axles. Not as bad as heavy MT's but still. I always suggest sleeve and gussets for 35's and new ball joints. It sort of like taken a 2' 2X4 and putting it in a crevice and try to bend it then put a 4' long one in the same crevice and try. The longer the board the easier it is to bend. The taller the wheel as you corner will stress the ball joints and axles. But saying that the bigger issue is gearing and loss of power. Yes the weight will help put the taller the tire without regearing means you are running at even a lower rpm at any given speed in a already under geared Jeep.
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Old 03-09-2012, 09:37 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rics1997 View Post
That's not bad weight for 35's for either class of 35's (AT/MT) but you still have the extra radius which will stress the axles. Not as bad as heavy MT's but still. I always suggest sleeve and gussets for 35's and new ball joints. It sort of like taken a 2' 2X4 and putting it in a crevice and try to bend it then put a 4' long one in the same crevice and try. The longer the board the easier it is to bend. The taller the wheel as you corner will stress the ball joints and axles. But saying that the bigger issue is gearing and loss of power. Yes the weight will help put the taller the tire without regearing means you are running at even a lower rpm at any given speed in a already under geared Jeep.
shoo shoo rics! Coming in here with all your facts and blah blah...
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Old 03-09-2012, 09:43 PM   #15
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Haha. He nailed it, though.

If your ball joints seem to be in good shape, I'd address the gearing first, then ball joints & sleeve/gusset.

Or you could just throw on the 35's and wheel the crap out of it till some s*** breaks. Kidding.

Since my Jeep is only 4 months old, I'm doing gears by early summer, and probably not gonna mess with ball joints and axle till fall. But I'm not gonna ignore them and hope nothing goes wrong.

Because then it will.
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Old 03-09-2012, 09:48 PM   #16
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Agree on the ball joints

Ride them till they break

Not the end of the world. Looks easy enough to DIY
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Old 03-09-2012, 09:51 PM   #17
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What do you all mean by upgrading/strengthening the axles?
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Old 03-09-2012, 09:57 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ESP
What do you all mean by upgrading/strengthening the axles?
d30 ? ^^
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Old 03-09-2012, 10:01 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ESP
What do you all mean by upgrading/strengthening the axles?
Sleeves and gussets. Could throw some chromemoly shafts in there too. Hell, throw a Pro Rock 44 or a Dynatrac in there and call it a day.
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Old 03-09-2012, 10:03 PM   #20
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$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$

Sorry... Dozed off and finger hit the money sign
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Old 03-09-2012, 10:03 PM   #21
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What do you all mean by upgrading/strengthening the axles?
35's can bend your front axle (rear's fine) if you wheel your Jeep hard. You can strengthen it with a sleeve and gusset job, or get a whole new axle, such as one of the fancy D30 chromoly jobs, which run about $700.

Haven't decided which way I'm gonna go. The chromoly thing appeals to me, for some godawful reason.
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Old 03-09-2012, 10:03 PM   #22
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$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$

Sorry... Dozed off and finger hit the money sign
Exactly.
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Old 03-09-2012, 10:16 PM   #23
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I can't recall where or how but I remember hearing that the D30 was fine up to a 35 tire but 37+ and you should "replace" with a D44 or other?
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Old 03-09-2012, 10:25 PM   #24
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Quote:
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I can't recall where or how but I remember hearing that the D30 was fine up to a 35 tire but 37+ and you should "replace" with a D44 or other?
Depends on how you drive it. If you wheel at all, which we all know you do, I would still recommend doing the sleeves and gussets.
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Old 03-10-2012, 07:33 AM   #25
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More pics

Dunlop radial MT?




KM2



MTR




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Old 03-10-2012, 07:36 AM   #26
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MTR


KM2









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Old 03-10-2012, 07:41 AM   #27
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Those jeeps are missing a set of doors.
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Old 03-10-2012, 07:52 AM   #28
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(cough) sick




Dunlop weighs 58 lbs.

In stock
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Old 03-10-2012, 09:06 AM   #29
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Those jeeps are missing a set of doors.
Jeeps have 4 doors?
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Old 03-10-2012, 09:13 AM   #30
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Jude, why don't you just do like planman and go for 40s on the 2dr? Lol. His rig is so badass!


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