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Old 07-03-2011, 04:57 PM   #1
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4" suspension lift with a 1" body lift

Im looking to be able to fit 35s under the jeep and lift it up a bit. I was hoping someone could point me in the right directions of quality kits or any advice on the best way to lift the vehicle.

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Old 07-03-2011, 04:59 PM   #2
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4" sl and 1" bl as you stated is the common way to fit 35s...with 35s comes more than that though, stronger brakes, upgraded steering, gears, stronger axles..let us know a little more about your jeep

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Old 07-03-2011, 07:52 PM   #3
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I am assuming since you are posting in the JK section that you own a JK model Wrangler 2007-present. To best answer any question you need to let us know what kind of Jeep you own. Year and model, 2 door or 4 door, Manual or automatic.

Body lifts are rarely done on a JK but if one is done around a 1" lift is all that is recommended. Also on a JK all you need is 2" to get 35" tires on a JK. Matter of fact 4" lifts will cause issues with any JK where Drive shafts will need replacing but mainly the issue is with the U-Joints. This is called a fatal angle where the stock u-joint boot will rub and eventually cause a hole to wear in the boot causing the grease to come out and fail.

The safest lifts are 2.5" for a 2 door and 3.5" for a 4 door. It's your Jeep and you can lift it all you want but just understand if you go over the 2.5 for 2dr and 3.5 for 4dr you will have to add significant cost to your lift to do it right. And again you only need 2" to get 35's on anyways. It's not like older models where you had to lift big to do it.
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Old 07-04-2011, 08:35 AM   #4
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hey, sorry guys i actually didnt know where i was posting this was my first post haha. I actually have a 2011 Rubicon automatic (i know automatics are for girls haha) 3.8 liter v6, what kind of issues would I run into by putting the lift and tires I want on it? also if there would be alot of issues what would be the bigggest lift I could go without having these problems?
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Old 07-04-2011, 08:38 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rics1997 View Post
The safest lifts are 2.5" for a 2 door and 3.5" for a 4 door. It's your Jeep and you can lift it all you want but just understand if you go over the 2.5 for 2dr and 3.5 for 4dr you will have to add significant cost to your lift to do it right. And again you only need 2" to get 35's on anyways. It's not like older models where you had to lift big to do it.
what he said..
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Old 07-04-2011, 08:38 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mattchesek
hey, sorry guys i actually didnt know where i was posting this was my first post haha. I actually have a 2011 Rubicon automatic (i know automatics are for girls haha) 3.8 liter v6, what kind of issues would I run into by putting the lift and tires I want on it? also if there would be alot of issues what would be the bigggest lift I could go without having these problems?
Read Mike's post just above yours.
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Old 07-05-2011, 12:51 AM   #7
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dang i always see posts in the recent threads section and reply to them and dont notice that its in the JK section sorry guys ill leave now hahaha
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Old 07-05-2011, 03:54 AM   #8
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I got a 4" pro comp long arm kit and run 35's I have had no drive line issues except had to replace my clutch with a centerforce clutch at 70000 k , still got stock gears, and still has plenty of pep to pass, everyone says 35's will and a 4" lift will kill your jeep, but if you go with a good quality kit you should have no probs, and it just looks so much cooler than 33's lol
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Old 07-05-2011, 05:07 AM   #9
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Its not so much the 4in lift that kills the shafts, its the longer down travel gained by the longer shocks. If you dont have massively longer shocks then there is no real problem.

You didnt mention if it was 2 door or 4 door though, as this plays a big part due to the shaft lengths.

Given that a 35in tyre is less than 2in higher axle to tyre top than the stock tyres, a 2.5in lift with 2in bump stop extensions would suffice no probs.

At 2.5 inches you also do away with a lot of the issues such as castor, drive shafts, pinion angles, etc.

By going to 35's though you will need to change the diff ratio's, otherwise you find it very underpowered and struggling to even get into top gear.
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Old 07-05-2011, 12:15 PM   #10
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Sorry I didnt make it clear before I have a 2 door rubicon automatic 2011. also what I am getting from all of the responses is that the safest and most inexpensive way to fit 35s would be a 2.5" SL and a 1" BL? And also if I do go about putting on the tires and the lifts would I run into any of the problems stated in your responses?
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Old 07-05-2011, 12:53 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mattchesek View Post
Sorry I didnt make it clear before I have a 2 door rubicon automatic 2011. also what I am getting from all of the responses is that the safest and most inexpensive way to fit 35s would be a 2.5" SL and a 1" BL? And also if I do go about putting on the tires and the lifts would I run into any of the problems stated in your responses?
There is no need for the BL. This will explain the drive shaft issue.

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