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Old 01-11-2013, 01:43 PM   #31
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Hmm, I've never seen that stuff.

I'll need to be on the lookout next time I'm at the automotive store.

Do you have a link handy of this stuff?

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Old 01-11-2013, 01:47 PM   #32
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Hmm, I've never seen that stuff.

I'll need to be on the lookout next time I'm at the automotive store.

Do you have a link handy of this stuff?
You won't find it at an automotive store likely. This is the one I'm using. I buy from this site all the time. Lots of good stuff, and their forum is very friendly with a lot of pro detailers on there that help out with ???'s.

Optimum No Rinse Wash & Shine: clay lubricant, optimum rinseless wash, no rinse car wash, optimum detailing products

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Old 01-11-2013, 02:20 PM   #33
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Turtle wax ice was crap for me. I used it twice on a black Jetta and it would do nothing but streak and look like crap after removing it. A good carnuba wax is better any day of the week.

That and I use Duragloss 105 several times a year to put a real layer of protection on the paint. If you want some advice of how to really take care of a car, check out the forums at autogeek.net
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Old 01-11-2013, 02:50 PM   #34
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Collinite #915 contains no cleaners, so it wont stain trim. It produces a shine you could swim in, it makes TWI look like sand paper.
Collinite Marque D’Elegance Carnauba Paste Wax #915, car wax, paste auto wax
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Old 01-11-2013, 03:28 PM   #35
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Meguiar's quick spray wax once every 3-4 weeks is the best...
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Old 01-11-2013, 03:33 PM   #36
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Lemon pledge! Best thing ever. I'm not even kidding.
"We need more lemon pledge" , "Can't you just bring that from home?" "No no "

Seriously, get a good Carnuba, and invest in a vat of Mothers Back to Black.

I love the Griots stuff.
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Old 01-11-2013, 03:47 PM   #37
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I use surf city products. They have a cleaner called beyond clay that works AWSOME for removing dirt of the surface
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Old 01-11-2013, 04:44 PM   #38
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Old 01-11-2013, 06:46 PM   #39
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I use some ZAINO products on my Harley's as well as some PINNACLE Carnauba wax. The Pinnacle will make black and red vehicles look wet. Aerospace 303 Detail Spray is some real good stuff to use in between waxes.
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Old 01-11-2013, 07:50 PM   #40
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One lap around a solid color JKU, with all of its nooks and crannies, is enough for me. So, even though it's just a Turtle Wax product, I use Zymol Cleaner Wax on Sahara Tan with highly reflective results.
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Old 01-11-2013, 08:07 PM   #41
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Detailers Domain.com colonite marqu d'excellance. consumers rated very high for standing up to road salt.
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Old 01-11-2013, 08:36 PM   #42
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It was a '98 Mercury Mystique. Some other owners on the same forum said they use clay bars a lot on the same year and make of car without any problem. One said that he even tried to duplicate what I ended up with in the pic below and couldn't.

Maybe I was just doing it all wrong but I thought I followed the directions on the box. All I know is I'll never use one again.

I've used clay bars on numerous vehicles including 2 show Mustangs with nothing but awesome results. I suspect that perhaps the clear coat was gone on that spoiler before you barred it or maybe you used it DRY? You have to use a lubricant like a detailing spray so it glides across the surface and it only takes a little bit to do the whole vehicle (like a 50 cent piece size). I personally use it to clean the dead bugs off the front end of my vehicles weekly as it works fantastic.

BTW, the Porter Cable 7424 is the #1 tool every vehicle owner should have. Not 100% for sure anymore but Coastal Tools used to be the best price for them.

Here's my detailing routine (3 times a year):

Wash
Clay (some say to wash again afterwards but the detailing spray already cleans it in my opinion)
Polish (light cut)
Polish (fine cut)
Carnauba Wax
Seal
Seal
Seal (sometimes). The more layers of sealant the deeper the shine, especially on a dark vehicle and sealant lasts 6 months. This stuff is so easy to use and it's the exact same stuff your dealer tries to scam you into buying for $500 or more! I prefer Poor Boys products as it won't streak or chalk and a little goes a long way.
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Old 01-11-2013, 08:54 PM   #43
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You won't find it at an automotive store likely. This is the one I'm using. I buy from this site all the time. Lots of good stuff, and their forum is very friendly with a lot of pro detailers on there that help out with ???'s.

Optimum No Rinse Wash & Shine: clay lubricant, optimum rinseless wash, no rinse car wash, optimum detailing products
No-Rinse is awesome, as are other OPT products.
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Old 01-11-2013, 09:41 PM   #44
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Originally Posted by Blackpony04 View Post
I personally use it to clean the dead bugs off the front end of my vehicles weekly as it works fantastic.

BTW, the Porter Cable 7424 is the #1 tool every vehicle owner should have. Not 100% for sure anymore but Coastal Tools used to be the best price for them.
For dried on bug guts I learned a trick over on the Viper forums on how to safely remove them. Dampen a Bounce clothes dryer sheet and gently wipe it across the area. It lifts it off like magic. Squirt a little detail spray afterward to get rid of any milky residue.

I also have a Porter Cable 7424.
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Old 01-11-2013, 10:06 PM   #45
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For dried on bug guts I learned a trick over on the Viper forums on how to safely remove them. Dampen a Bounce clothes dryer sheet and gently wipe it across the area. It lifts it off like magic. Squirt a little detail spray afterward to get rid of any milky residue.

I also have a Porter Cable 7424.
Yes, dryer sheets work well!!

Living in love bug land dryer sheets are a must! Works like butter.
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Old 01-12-2013, 01:09 AM   #46
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"We need more lemon pledge" , "Can't you just bring that from home?" "No no "
epic!!
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Old 01-12-2013, 02:07 AM   #47
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epic!!
Hahaha "No, Superman not here...you cannot come eeeeen...no."
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Old 01-12-2013, 05:03 AM   #48
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Do the waxes affect the decals negatively?
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Old 01-12-2013, 10:02 AM   #49
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Do the waxes affect the decals negatively?
No as it actually protects them as well. But the choice of wax is important as you don't one that dries white (Mequiars is the easiest to find brand I recommend). Otherwise just use an old toothbrush and run it along the edges of the decals when you're done waxing and that will remove any excess.
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Old 01-12-2013, 10:07 AM   #50
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For dried on bug guts I learned a trick over on the Viper forums on how to safely remove them. Dampen a Bounce clothes dryer sheet and gently wipe it across the area. It lifts it off like magic. Squirt a little detail spray afterward to get rid of any milky residue.

I also have a Porter Cable 7424.
I had actually done that years ago and I forgot all about it so thanks for the tip!
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Old 01-12-2013, 10:08 AM   #51
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Way too often a new and trendy and pricey protectant comes along and every car nut jumps on it. I got off that band wagon years ago after trying about half a dozen different waxes on my 2004 Mach 1 Mustang. Now I use a good carnauba wax on metal and Mother's back to black on trim and I am happy.

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Old 01-12-2013, 10:13 AM   #52
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I dont usually keep vehicles very long, so I typically don't worry about waxing and taking care of the paint too much. With that said, I plan to keep my 13 Sahara for a long time.

In the past, I have used waxes, but they have been the paste kind with the applicator pad. I always hated how wax got on the plastic and left a permanent white color. With my black jeep with black plastic, I definitely dont want that. Is there a product that you use that never discolors plastic if it got on it? Or is there a product you can spray on and rinse off w/o even rubbing it on/off?
Blue tape the fenders and remove tape when your finished. Then you can use any wax you want, and as many coats as you like. Go nuts!
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Old 01-12-2013, 10:26 AM   #53
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I'd say with a brand new '13 model, just use a spray detailer every so often to protect what you have...
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Old 01-12-2013, 10:42 AM   #54
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I will be using this quote in the near future! I'll find a way! Awesome.
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Old 01-12-2013, 10:56 AM   #55
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How long should you wait to wax a new jeep now a days. I know back when I was growing up they use to say wait 3 months for the paint to cure. I'm sure this does not apply any more does it.
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Old 01-12-2013, 11:58 AM   #56
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How long should you wait to wax a new jeep now a days. I know back when I was growing up they use to say wait 3 months for the paint to cure. I'm sure this does not apply any more does it.
You don't have to wait at all anymore. I put on 3 coats of sealant the day I brought her home to get me through winter.
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Old 01-12-2013, 12:13 PM   #57
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You don't have to wait at all anymore. I put on 3 coats of sealant the day I brought her home to get me through winter.
??

Paint still needs a little cure time, but not three months.. Also there are "body shop safe" waxes and sealants that are okay on new paint that still needs to "breath".
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Old 01-12-2013, 12:40 PM   #58
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I have several show cars and everyday cars. I usually get get money back when I sell cause I take care of my stuff. I use german wax Menzerna brand and then 303 protect all on the black plastic stuff.
X2 on the Menzerma. They make several "grades". THe polishing compound is excellent for pinstriping removal. Final Finish is the actual wax. We have a 20 yr. old convertible that got a re-paint on the hood about 10 years ago. They used a very soft clear coat- so even though we take excellent care it scratches if you sneeze near it. The polish on an orbital buffer can't be beat. I have the car for sale and the hood is mirror-shiny. (need Jeep parts).
I am switching back to "Black to Black" from 303. On a recent excursion I accidentally ran through a giant mud puddle. A couple of times. The mud/dirt just wouldn't come off the fenders. I scrubbed with a nylon brush and still....I've always used B to B on my truck- and the dirt doesn't stick to it. Its a 2002- and only last year did the trim pieces dull to grey. I'll still use 303 on the soft top though.
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Old 01-12-2013, 01:02 PM   #59
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Just my humble opinion...

Furniture polish users are going to find a problem when and if they need to paint something...

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Old 01-12-2013, 02:05 PM   #60
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I make sure I taped all plastics and rubber to avoid discoloration and then for the Jeeps I use a product called Re-JeX. Nothing sticks and I use it once or twice a year. No multiple steps on a Jeep IMO.

RejeX

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