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Old 01-10-2012, 07:10 PM   #1
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Talking Ace MidWidth and Rear Bumper

A box showed up in my driveway this afternoon. I arrived at home after 6 PM to find this.

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I knew it was from
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I attacked it with my trusty machete
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and ripped away the packaging
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Old 01-10-2012, 07:17 PM   #2
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And finally the rear bumper was exposed
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these things have some meat on them. I'm gonna need help getting this in place.
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Found some cheap Pilot driving lights for the back up lights. Will create my own harness as what was provided was laughable. Definately got what I paid for. Then these will get hooked up to the sPod and used to brighten up the trail when I am backing up. 4 switches left.....

And underneath the rear bumper, was the MidWidth front bumper with the bull bar
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ripped the sleaves on my meaty biceps removing this from the box
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Only problem, I have to wait till Monday to install them..... And trying to figure out who is going to help me get them into the back of the Jeep.

Jason at Krawloffroad did a great job getting my new bumpers to me.

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Old 01-10-2012, 07:43 PM   #3
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i work for beer if you want help installing them yourself./it will make it easier to install mine later this spring.
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Old 01-10-2012, 07:47 PM   #4
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Very nice! I really want this rear bumper. But think I will wait for the tire carrier. How much was shipping on the rear?
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Old 01-10-2012, 07:49 PM   #5
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Lookin good Ryan !
Your Jeep is coming along great
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Old 01-10-2012, 07:55 PM   #6
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Meeting up at a friends garage to install these. At first I looked for instructions, there aren't any. Then I looked at the hardware, you don't need instructions. Take the bumpers off and bolt these in. Only difficulty will be the weight. They are between 100 and 130 lbs each. Which should make for some interesting lighting installs

They were shipped together, total was $300, which was painful, yet cheaper than having them shipped seperately.
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Old 01-10-2012, 07:56 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Twisky View Post
Lookin good Ryan !
Your Jeep is coming along great
Thanks! Need to install the snorkel and then I will be taking a break from mods for at least 6 months, or so.....
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Old 01-10-2012, 07:57 PM   #8
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don't forget the vacuum pump relocation- or did they fix that problem?
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Old 01-11-2012, 08:03 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ryanJKunlimited2012 View Post
Thanks! Need to install the snorkel and then I will be taking a break from mods for at least 6 months, or so.....
LOL I know you better than that! LOL man, these look better than I was hoping! I cant WAIT to see these mounted out. Thanks for letting us help out and take care of you on this my friend!

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Old 01-11-2012, 08:48 AM   #10
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I like the ACE stuff. Great prices and beefy! I am thinking of running the rear bumper and their tube fenders too. Jason, may call you in the near future.

-Dan
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Old 01-11-2012, 08:50 AM   #11
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Dan,

Always here to help my friend!

-Jason
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Old 01-13-2012, 08:07 AM   #12
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Here is a quick pic on a 2012 Sahara tan
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Old 01-13-2012, 09:50 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ThisJk38 View Post
Very nice! I really want this rear bumper. But think I will wait for the tire carrier. How much was shipping on the rear?
Same here. I want the tire carrier off the tail gate and on the bumper. If they do that then all I can say is "Sold!"

Thier webpage says the bumper hitch is only rated at 2000#. My JKU with 4:10s is rated for 3500#. My trailer when loades is 2800#. May be a problem but will see.
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Old 01-15-2012, 01:24 PM   #14
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I have the front fog lights and those will go in the front mid width bumper.

I wanted some bright lights for backing up on the trail or lighting up a camp site in the rear bumpers. These will be controlled by a switch on the sPod, and will not be used on the road.
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I decided not to buy two new fogs and poach the brackets to use with the Pilot Driving lights I bought for the rear. After a search, discovered I was going to fab some brackets.

Its a good thing I don't quit easily, here are the different prototypes.
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1. Steel strapping was too big, and couldn't drill accurately enough to mod.
2 & 3. Also found out the aluminum stock I bought and drilling by hand was to inaccurate.
4. Bought some aluminum flashing to start using as it was cheap, quick to cut, and let me just mess around.
5. Bought some .25 sheet metal and created a bracket that fit, but didn't let me screw in the light
6. Finally found the right design. I'll hit it with rustoleum before I put it in permanently

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Now 3 more brackets to cut, bend, and drill out. Doing all this with a drill and some hand tools.

Can't wait to get this done and install everything tomorrow.

Will post pics of the vacuum pump relocation on the front bumper, wiring it all up and installation of the front midwidth and rear bumper.

I also got a call from Adam. Which amazes me. Only in Jeepland do you get a call from the man at a supplier. I have drunk the Ace Koolaid, it is tasty, and I'll continue to drink some more, if I can find any more places to put their products.
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Old 01-15-2012, 02:38 PM   #15
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Subscribing. I'm curious how that vacuum pump relocation works, on the 2012. I'm also very curious how the Ace mid width and rears look, installed. They may be my next mods...
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Old 01-16-2012, 11:12 AM   #16
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Here is what we typically do for the pump re-locate for our bumpers. Here are a few pics during the process. We remove the factory welded threaded studs and use new hardware to mount pump on the opposite side of the factory pump bracket. This lowers the pump about 2 inches giving enough room for bumper clearance.
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Old 01-16-2012, 11:16 AM   #17
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Also trim the crash bar bracket in two spots. These brackets have changed over the years and are not always the same. Here is a pic below the tape we trim to keep a even height with the cross bar.
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Old 01-17-2012, 07:50 AM   #18
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Ace,

Thanks for posting those pics. We discovered during the process that we needed to do this for my install.

I used a vacuum pump relo kit from Evo which attaches under the sway bar. I would recommend doing what Ace shows for two reasons, the first is that it saves $, the second is that you need to remove those posts from the vacuum pump bracket as well.
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Old 01-17-2012, 08:05 AM   #19
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Rear Bumper install

The rear bumper went in with no problems. We removed the factory hitch, and then the bumper.
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Also removed the wings from the side of the frame that are used to support the factory bumper. This is good as I hope to install a gobi rack using that space in the future.

Next we fished the light wires from the engine back to the rear. I ran a + and - from my sPod down the break lines up against the frame. We put the wires in a 3/8 split loom to protect, and used cable ties to keep everything in place and to keep the wires away from the muffler. At the point where the rear wheel well starts we put a wire hanger into the frame, nice big hole in the frame back there, and pushed it through to the opening in the rear. Pulled the wires and loom through and cable tied it to the trailer wire. Then we attached the + and - to the lights in the rear bumper.

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After that we moved the bumper around a bit to get it all lined up. Some corrugated box and a 5lb sledge helps. Tightened up the bolts on each side twice to make sure they weren't moving from side to side, and the rear bumper was all good.

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If you are running a 33" tire with a cover, the cover will rub on the bumper. The tire will fit without the cover with no problem.
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Old 01-17-2012, 06:18 PM   #20
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So as I was working on the rear bumper with one friend, another had removed the front bumper. We removed the fog lights from the factory bumper, drilled out the holes in the bracket to a little larger, and installed the fogs in the factory bracket with the screws Ace provided.

At this point we were ready to relocate the vacuum pump. That presented few issues, and we removed the posts in a similar way that Ace showed in a previous post.

We then fitted up the front bumper and were having problems, so we decided to get some bolts in to help align things. No go. This is when we realized we needed to trim the crashbar. Unfortunately, two of the bolts got all jammed up, and we needed to snap them off. If the garage had an internet connection, we would have known about trimming the crash bar, or if there were instructions, but we figured it out.

Here is what the crashbar looked like after we trimmed it.
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Here is how much we trimmed
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We then fitted the front bumper up again and got the remaining six bolts in place. The only problem was that it appears the remaining two holes don't line up.

So I called Adam at Ace. He explained that the front bumper was designed off the '10 design that didn't have the extra metal at the crash bar, and that not all '11 and '12 JK bumper frames have the extra, only some made by certain suppliers. He also explained that the first bolt you need to align is the upper right hand bolt when facing the Jeep, driver side. This whole is a circle, all the other wholes in the bumper frame are ovals. So that explains why things don't line up, becasue that is the whole I left empty. Adam is going to ship out a new set of bolts and some goodies. One of my buddies is coming to help me out on Friday, and I should have a better pic then.

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All in all I love the look and heft of these bumpers. I'm headed into the Pine Barrens over the weekend, will have to wait till the spring to give these a good test in Rausch Creek.

I would suggest some directions for the front midwidth install due to the vacuum pump relocation, the crash bar trim, and just a statement to install the upper right hand bolt first. The rear install needed no instruction. For both bumpers, 12 threaded bolts, 8 washers, 8 lock washers, 8 nuts, and 8 screws for the lights were included.
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Old 09-08-2012, 02:49 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ACE ENGINEERING View Post
Here is what we typically do for the pump re-locate for our bumpers. Here are a few pics during the process. We remove the factory welded threaded studs and use new hardware to mount pump on the opposite side of the factory pump bracket. This lowers the pump about 2 inches giving enough room for bumper clearance.
Is the relocation still needed for the 2013 JKRU?
Your web site says bolt in.
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Old 09-08-2012, 02:57 PM   #22
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I see now. It is installed on top of the bracket and it just needs to be installed from underneath. So cut studs drill and re-attach. Correct?
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Old 09-10-2012, 08:56 AM   #23
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Yes, that is correct! You dont really need to "relocate" it, just move it down a bit!

-Jason

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