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Old 02-16-2012, 04:01 AM   #1
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Added a hood switch & shock sensor to the factory alarm

Short version:

The gate wire is in the stock loom at the passenger "kick panel" where you tie in your hood switch and shock sensor.

A standard pin switch from any aftermarket alarm will do and there is only ONE place you can put it that I spotted (on the passenger side, easier to run the wire anywho and the factory loom is right under the battery, but be forewarned, poking a hole thru the factory gromitt is not for the light-hearted and you can screw up your wiring/electrical if you poke holes in wires and let the smoke out). If you get a plastic pin switch that is trimable to length, the shorter the better.

You are going to need a Bosch DPST relay (should be available at any auto parts store) to isolate the shock sensor from the dome light circuit when the key is on. Tapping the power window accy lead works great for this. The constant 12v comes off the radio. Be sure to fuse both. This accy 12v is handy because after you turn off your key you lose the accy from the window "tap" and you can bump the steering wheel or whatever and your gate light will flash on the dash, showing you the the shock sensor is working and how sensitive it is.

I had an old Ungo electronic shock sensor laying around but you can use whatever type you like. I've got a proximity sensor laying around also that I'm gonna play with but they can be finickey from what I've seen.

I'll get some pics, a wiring diagram for the relay and double check the color of the gate lead and post back if there's any interest.

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Old 02-16-2012, 05:17 AM   #2
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I never thought u could "upgrade" a factory alarm. Im interested. But instead of a pin switch. Would a mercury switch work. I always had pin switches fail due to moisture.

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Old 02-16-2012, 05:23 AM   #3
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Very nice, and yes interested. Please do give the info.

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Old 02-16-2012, 06:17 AM   #4
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Absolutely interested, actually surprised a hood sensor is not included seeing that the hood is so easily opened. Anyone with half a brain could figure out to open the hood, pull the battery lead and then take their time with the rest.
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Old 02-19-2012, 01:25 PM   #5
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There's a major wire loom at the passenger "kick panel" where you will find a purple w/pink trace wire coming from the gate trigger that you will tie into. You can verfy by 1) removing the air vent on the gate where you see the release handle and 2) close all doors, unplug the passenger door, arm the alarm and stab the purple w/pink trace wire with your test light and that should trigger the armed system.

Here's a pic of where *NOT* to drill your pinswitch hole. It needs to go as far to the outside of the frame, right at the edge of where it bends down and back (towards the passenger compartment) as far as possible (use the force Luke). Notice I used a plastic striker type pin switch (and after 35+ years of using these pin switches don't worry about their life expectancy) and cut it down where the hood comes ip 1/4" and it triggers the alarm:





Else your gonna have to come up with a flat striker, which isn't too hard given the location and assuming you use a 1/2" screw that won't pop out the other side, which would be rather noticeable :



I have this fancy-dancy tool which I used to pierce *both* layers of rubber insulating firewall loom under the battery to the out-most side, away from any other wires and pull my pin switch wire into the passenger compartment (notice I remembered to white-balance my camera so no more blue pics??):



Notice the hook to grab the wire:



My suggested alternative would be to drill a hole, run your wire and silicone it up.

I've also heard there is a hood pin switch wire behind one of the headlights that goes whoknows where, is tied into whoknowswhat that *might* be able to disconnect from that whoknowswhat circuit, extended to where you need it both under the hood and to the passenger "kickpanel" where the purple w/pink trace wire is.

If you use a shock/motion/proximity sensor you are going to want them isolated from the whole system when the key is on. The Bosch relay gets wired like this:

85 to ground
86 to windows accy +12v (or where ever you prefer accy 12V)
30 to purple/pink trace
87a to -12v output from shock sensor

LMK if you have any questions!
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Old 02-19-2012, 06:03 PM   #6
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This is going on my list thanks for sharing
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Old 02-19-2012, 06:37 PM   #7
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Dude! I just had a head slap moment, don't know why I never thought of it.!

This is a marvelous idea, I'm going to do it as soon as I can.

Thanks for the input!

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Old 02-19-2012, 06:54 PM   #8
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On my 2012 Sahara, which has remote start, there is a hood pin switch on the driver's side and there is room and a mounting spot for a second pin switch right next to it. If I get a chance I will take a picture and post it. I am thinking I could go to the dealer and order a replacement switch and pop it in the hole right next to the existing one.
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Old 02-20-2012, 03:28 AM   #9
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Does the hood switch need to be a normally open or normally closed switch?
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Old 02-20-2012, 09:39 AM   #10
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You want to send a ground signal when opening the hood, so normally closed (not that I've ever seen a normally open pin switch).
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Old 02-20-2012, 11:42 AM   #11
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Here is the existing PIN switch that is on my 2012 JKU with remote start...



and the matching spot on the hood...



Now I would think that if Jeep is already putting a hood pin switch for the remote start disable, they would be smart enough to connect it to the alarm.

Now to be honest I have not double checked that they did not, so I am going to head out over my lunch break and pop the hood with the alarm engaged to see what happens. I will absolutely look like a fool if the alarm goes off.
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Old 02-20-2012, 11:44 AM   #12
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Couldn't you just diode isolate the shock sensor?

I'm not following how that relay wiring would work. Is the purple/pink a negative trip on the alarm? And by doing accessory on 86 and ground on 85 you'd only be passing a signal while there was accessory power, or while the key was on. So, how does the shock sensor trip the alarm while the key is off?

Not trying to be difficult. Been doing alarms/car audio since 96.
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Old 02-20-2012, 12:33 PM   #13
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If you used a diode the signal would never make it to the purple/pink wire (yes, the negative trigger to the alarm), with your key on or off.

30 (common) and 87a are normally closed, ie signal will pass, which is what we want, when we don't activate the relay (turn key on) w/85 and 86.

Now that I think about it, the relay is a SPST, not DPST as I stated earlier.

Make sense?

You are not being difficult asking making sure you get it straight, I (for all intent and purposes) invented the car alarm and car audio as we know it, around 74 ;~)>
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Old 02-20-2012, 02:06 PM   #14
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So I went out and verified that the hood pin switch on my 2012 Sahara is not tied to the alarm in any fashion. How incredibly stupid.

So now I am wondering what that second, currently unused, pin switch location in my pictures is for. It is hard to read in the pictures but the PIN switches are labeled on the mounting bracket. The existing switch is labeled TIPM where the open hole is labeled PCM. I may go into my service department and ask them what it is for and how much would it cost for a replacement pin switch. Now the challenge would be to route that wire into the passenger compartment.

I know you have given more instructions, but please bear with me. When you say the passenger kick panel, are you talking the smaller panel on the side as you open the door or the very bottom panel by your feet? Also to get this wire into the passenger compartment you say the loom is under the battery. Did you have to remove both the battery and the battery tray to get to it?

Finally, just to verify you would not need to use the relay if you are only adding the hood pin switch (since this would hopefully not be tripped while driving down the road) The reason for adding the relay is that a proximity or shock sensor would be likely tripped while driving and without the relay, making the Jeep would think the back tailgate was opened. Basically the relay is shutting this sensor off, or disconnecting it, while the Jeep is turned on. Once the Jeep is turned off the relay is de-energized, closing this switch (normally-closed) which then enables this additional sensor. Am I following you correctly?

Thanks
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Old 02-20-2012, 02:23 PM   #15
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I didnt know we had an alarm system?

How do you make it go off?

For reallies.
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Old 02-20-2012, 03:19 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by schirmyver View Post
So I went out and verified that the hood pin switch on my 2012 Sahara is not tied to the alarm in any fashion. How incredibly stupid.

So now I am wondering what that second, currently unused, pin switch location in my pictures is for. It is hard to read in the pictures but the PIN switches are labeled on the mounting bracket. The existing switch is labeled TIPM where the open hole is labeled PCM. I may go into my service department and ask them what it is for and how much would it cost for a replacement pin switch. Now the challenge would be to route that wire into the passenger compartment.
What about 1) checking that that pin switch is sending a ground signal and if so 2) tapping it on the inside of the jeep and using a diode so nothing feeds back to the remote starter circuit, run a wire to the front passenger side where the loom w/the gate line is?

Quote:
Originally Posted by schirmyver View Post
I know you have given more instructions, but please bear with me. When you say the passenger kick panel, are you talking the smaller panel on the side as you open the door or the very bottom panel by your feet? Also to get this wire into the passenger compartment you say the loom is under the battery. Did you have to remove both the battery and the battery tray to get to it?
Imagine sitting on the passenger side and with your right heel planted, poke your right toes as far right as you can to the right - this is referred to the "kick panel", which is usually a plastic cover, which the jeep has none. Your toes might just hit the loom you are looking for if you have a size 13 shoe . I didn't have to remove the battery, look carefully right in the farthest corner of the engine compartment outside of the battery tray with the hood against the windshield, you should see the loom and area where I was working on my pin switch wire run. I don't think anyone would want to remove the battery tray - too much work but it could be done. I think taking out the wheel well would be easier to get to the area.

Quote:
Originally Posted by schirmyver View Post
Finally, just to verify you would not need to use the relay if you are only adding the hood pin switch (since this would hopefully not be tripped while driving down the road) The reason for adding the relay is that a proximity or shock sensor would be likely tripped while driving and without the relay, making the Jeep would think the back tailgate was opened. Basically the relay is shutting this sensor off, or disconnecting it, while the Jeep is turned on. Once the Jeep is turned off the relay is de-energized, closing this switch (normally-closed) which then enables this additional sensor. Am I following you correctly?

Thanks
Yep, you are following perfectly as to the needs and why!!
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Old 02-20-2012, 03:23 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by silvrevo View Post
I didnt know we had an alarm system?

How do you make it go off?

For reallies.
Lock your jeep with a window down, wait about 20 seconds and reach inside and open the door. If your horn starts honking, you have an alarm.

There's also a blinking led by the mileage counter.

Page 19 of your owners manual. If you don't have the 600 page manual call Chrysler and ask them to send you one
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Old 02-20-2012, 03:42 PM   #18
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If you used a diode the signal would never make it to the purple/pink wire (yes, the negative trigger to the alarm), with your key on or off.

30 (common) and 87a are normally closed, ie signal will pass, which is what we want, when we don't activate the relay (turn key on) w/85 and 86.

Now that I think about it, the relay is a SPST, not DPST as I stated earlier.

Make sense?

You are not being difficult asking making sure you get it straight, I (for all intent and purposes) invented the car alarm and car audio as we know it, around 74 ;~)>
SPST is still a normally open relay. SPDT would have a 87 open and 87a closed. I've never seen a normally closed SPST. They're always closed by the coil connections.

Single Pole Double Throw (SPDT), Single Pole Single Throw (SPST) Automotive Relays
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Old 02-20-2012, 04:08 PM   #19
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SPST is still a normally open relay. SPDT would have a 87 open and 87a closed. I've never seen a normally closed SPST. They're always closed by the coil connections.

Single Pole Double Throw (SPDT), Single Pole Single Throw (SPST) Automotive Relays
Guess I *was* right the first time, SPDT.

"Normally" is non-energized coil.

At rest (not energized) 30 and 87a have continuity, (normally) closed.

30 and 87 are (normally) open.

Choose your poison, NO or NC depending on your needs - same relay.
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Old 02-20-2012, 04:37 PM   #20
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What about 1) checking that that pin switch is sending a ground signal and if so 2) tapping it on the inside of the jeep and using a diode so nothing feeds back to the remote starter circuit, run a wire to the front passenger side where the loom w/the gate line is?
I thought about doing that, but wouldn't I need to add the diode to both lines, the existing line and the one I am adding to isolated them from each other?

See my very crude diagram below. [->I-] is the diode with the "I" being the line on one end indicating the direction of flow.

Tailgate sensor ------[->I-]---┐
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ├----- Pin switch to ground
Remote start disable--[->I-]---┘

If either of the diodes are omitted it would allow the voltage on one of the systems to feed into the other.

It might just be simpler to get a second pin switch and then I know I do not have to worry. Since the mounting bracket and hood are already set up for a second pin switch to be installed this could be the easiest.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 12JKUR View Post
Imagine sitting on the passenger side and with your right heel planted, poke your right toes as far right as you can to the right - this is referred to the "kick panel", which is usually a plastic cover, which the jeep has none. Your toes might just hit the loom you are looking for if you have a size 13 shoe . I didn't have to remove the battery, look carefully right in the farthest corner of the engine compartment outside of the battery tray with the hood against the windshield, you should see the loom and area where I was working on my pin switch wire run. I don't think anyone would want to remove the battery tray - too much work but it could be done. I think taking out the wheel well would be easier to get to the area.
Thanks for the added information. Once I figure out what I am going to do with the added pin switch this will be very useful.
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Old 02-20-2012, 05:31 PM   #21
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Just means if your gate is open your remote start won't work, just as if it was the hood were open (personally I'd disconnect the hood switch from the remote start and use it for just the alarm, just don't stick your parts in the fan and hit the remote start button). My wife has a remote start, I think its been used 2X in 3 years and that was during the first 2 months of it's life ;~)>
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Old 02-20-2012, 07:56 PM   #22
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I guess I am just overly concerned about the electrical system on the JK. Without diodes on both leads, or a separate pin switch, the voltage on the tailgate switch will be fed into the remote start disable circuitry. Probably does not matter but not sure.

I would consider disconnecting the pin switch from the remote start disable, but if some mechanic got hurt by some freak accident due to the engine starting I would feel responsible.

I am going to find out how much a factory pin switch will cost and then choose either two diodes or the new switch.
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Old 02-21-2012, 02:36 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by schirmyver View Post
I guess I am just overly concerned about the electrical system on the JK. Without diodes on both leads, or a separate pin switch, the voltage on the tailgate switch will be fed into the remote start disable circuitry. Probably does not matter but not sure.

I would consider disconnecting the pin switch from the remote start disable, but if some mechanic got hurt by some freak accident due to the engine starting I would feel responsible.

I am going to find out how much a factory pin switch will cost and then choose either two diodes or the new switch.
I just ordered a duplicate factory pin switch yesterday locally-it was $16. I found it a little cheaper online, but then you have to add shipping charges.
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Old 02-21-2012, 08:42 AM   #24
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I never thought u could "upgrade" a factory alarm.
Well it's not designed for you to do so, but there are ways.

Here's another one.

http://www.wranglerforum.com/f33/dei...em-113444.html
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Old 02-23-2012, 11:55 AM   #25
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Great info

Good info and thanks for putting this up. Not working on my upgrades yet, but keeping track of threads and subscribing to them as I go just in case.

v/r

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