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Old 01-27-2012, 02:40 PM   #1
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Adj. Front Track Bar & LCAs & other Things

Looking for advice on what, if anything I should add to my 2012 JKUR to make it better in terms of anything usefull for street driving to moderate rock crawling.

For context, here's what I have so far in the way of mods:

Pro Comp 4" Stage-II Lift Kit with MX-6 Shocks; J.E. Reel 1350 Front DS; Rancho Steering Stabilizer; Pro Comp Radial Mud Terrain 35x12.5x15 tires; Ultra Wheels – 17x9 with 4.5” backspacing; and Smittybilt Side Armor.

This is what's getting installed next week when they finish arriving:


Teraflex Exhaust Extensions; Rock Hard 4x4 Parts Full Width Front Bumper; G2 Series Rear Bumper and Tire Carrier System; 2 x Rancho RockGEAR Dana 44 Differential Covers; Rancho RockGEAR Front Differential Glide Plate; Rock Hard 4x4 Parts Oil Pan, Transmission & Catalytic Converter Skid Plate; and Skid Row Offroad Front Lower Control Arm Skid Plates.


My next question/issue is whether I need either (i) an adjustable front track bar or (ii) adjustable front LCAs. Or if I don’t need them, how would they nonetheless benefit my ride? My Jeep rides just fine, so I assume the obvious answer is that I don't need them. But they also aren't that expensive if they will benefit me now or down the road. It seems like these are the two items most people around here criticize lifts for not having. If there is a good reason to get them, I will.

Lastly, the following items are on my wish list. Which items would you guys get if you were me, which ones would you pass on, and for the ones you would get, which ones would you think are most important?

Synergy Suspension Chromoly Tie Rod: http://www.quadratec.com/products/16315_6000.htm

Synergy Suspension Inner C Upper & Lower Gusset Kit:
http://www.quadratec.com/products/16356_100X_A_PG.htm

Synergy Suspension Rear Lower Control Arm Skids with Shock Mount:
http://www.quadratec.com/products/16315_6408.htm

Synergy Suspension Jeep JK Rear Long Travel Upper Shock Mount:
http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/Synergy-Suspension-Jeep-JK-Rear-Long-Travel-Upper-Shock-Mount-p-29226.html

Rock Hard 4x4 Parts Transfer Case Skid Plate:
http://www.quadratec.com/products/12065_3000.htm

Rock Hard 4x4 Parts Fuel Tank Skid Plate:
http://www.quadratec.com/products/12065_301X_PG.htm

Rock Hard 4x4 Parts Fuel Tank Breather Skid Plate: http://www.quadratec.com/products/12065_3020.htm (2012 JKURs already have one, but I assume this one is better).

Rear 1350 C.V. Heavy Duty Rear DS: http://reeldriveline.com/catalog/rear-1350-heavy-duty-drive-line-jeep-wrangler-2012-4door-auto-trans-p-34.html

Thanks in advance for any helpful comments.



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Old 01-27-2012, 03:26 PM   #2
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Good LORD man. You got it bad.

You rig is obviously well equipped to handle the zombie apocalypse and, I suppose, some light wheeling.

On the adjustable trackbars/LCAs, I would expect your lift already came with these longer trackbars and LCAs, no? At 4", your axles would be pretty offset and your handling would be pretty squirrelly if not. Assuming it came with longer fixed TBs/LCAs, then all you'd really be adding would be adjustability. Are your axles offcenter and/or does your jeep not track straight on the highway? If not, adjustability isn't going to offer you much. You could improve quality by buying high end TBs/LCAs, but the ones you have seem to be doing find. I'd just wait until you have a problem (which may be never) on those. JMHO.

The C-gussets are a good idea IMO. The C's and your ball joints are probably the weakest spots on you front axle in the face of those heavy 35s. I know Synergy makes some greaseable HD ball joints you might be interested in. Not immediately "necessary" mind you (you're WAY past that), but a good investment I'd think.

I'm not up to speed on the '12s and the rear driveshaft issue.

As to the other skids, how serious are you about rock crawling? If you really do plan to be out there smashing your underside at Moab and the like, then the more skids the better I suppose. But if you're really just talking about trails and sometimes some rocks, I'm not sure you need to go crazy with a few hundred more pounds of skids just yet.

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Old 01-27-2012, 03:48 PM   #3
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Good LORD man. You got it bad.

You rig is obviously well equipped to handle the zombie apocalypse and, I suppose, some light wheeling.

On the adjustable trackbars/LCAs, I would expect your lift already came with these longer trackbars and LCAs, no? At 4", your axles would be pretty offset and your handling would be pretty squirrelly if not. Assuming it came with longer fixed TBs/LCAs, then all you'd really be adding would be adjustability. Are your axles offcenter and/or does your jeep not track straight on the highway? If not, adjustability isn't going to offer you much. You could improve quality by buying high end TBs/LCAs, but the ones you have seem to be doing find. I'd just wait until you have a problem (which may be never) on those. JMHO.

The C-gussets are a good idea IMO. The C's and your ball joints are probably the weakest spots on you front axle in the face of those heavy 35s. I know Synergy makes some greaseable HD ball joints you might be interested in. Not immediately "necessary" mind you (you're WAY past that), but a good investment I'd think.

I'm not up to speed on the '12s and the rear driveshaft issue.

As to the other skids, how serious are you about rock crawling? If you really do plan to be out there smashing your underside at Moab and the like, then the more skids the better I suppose. But if you're really just talking about trails and sometimes some rocks, I'm not sure you need to go crazy with a few hundred more pounds of skids just yet.
Many thanks Mike!

On the adjustable trackbars/LCAs, I would expect your lift already came with these longer trackbars and LCAs, no?

It definitely has the LCAs. This is what the list online says it has:

Front lift: Coil springs
Front sway bar links
Boxed lower control arms
Lower control arms
Brake line extension brackets
Rear lift: Coils
Shocks: front/rear MX-6 shocks

This is a mfr's pics of the lift kit:



I assume even though it's not on the list that thingy on the bottom is the fixed track bar, right?

I can't tell you if my axles are off center, but it does track straight on the highway. Sounds like you think I should just leave it alone?

Thanks for the advice on the C-gussets.

There's really no rear driveshaft issue with the '12s vs. the 07-11s I think (the issue is with the front DS and the different exhaust cross-over).

As to the other skids, I'm not going to Moab anytime soon. But I want to go to places like Rausch Creek, etc ... where you can go as hard as you want up to failure. I ill not over-extend my vehicle, but I don't want it to be too lame on the semi-difficult stuff. I did some pretty decent trails in my last, non-Jeep vehicle, and I want to be able to do at least as much as I could with that.

Thanks again for your helpful advice.
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Old 01-27-2012, 04:40 PM   #4
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Yep, that's a front track bar. You should have something similar in the rear. It's probably still the stocker with a bracket attached on the axle side.

Look at your jeep from the front/rear. Do your tires stick out further on one side or the other? If not, you're alright as far as TBs are concerned.

What about recovery gear? Winches, straps, snatch blocks, etc.? And a CB radio.

What on earth was your last "non-Jeep vehicle" that you're even marginally concerned your current Rubi couldn't smash it to itty bitty girly man pieces?
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Old 01-27-2012, 04:53 PM   #5
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Well,

There are people who may say otherwise, but my dealer's service department says an adjustable trac bar may have prevented problems for me:

http://www.wranglerforum.com/f33/wor...le-135460.html

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Old 01-27-2012, 05:48 PM   #6
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Yep, that's a front track bar. You should have something similar in the rear. It's probably still the stocker with a bracket attached on the axle side.

Look at your jeep from the front/rear. Do your tires stick out further on one side or the other? If not, you're alright as far as TBs are concerned.
Yeah, it looks like the stock rear and aftermarket front track bar. I assume it's okay now, but I'll ask the installer when he puts all the new stuff on.

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What about recovery gear? Winches, straps, snatch blocks, etc.? And a CB radio.
I have all the recovery gear I need I think from my last winched vehicle, which I kept. I don't have a CB, but I do have an Iridium 9555 sat phone I got for my Alaskan bear hunt in 2010.

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What on earth was your last "non-Jeep vehicle" that you're even marginally concerned your current Rubi couldn't smash it to itty bitty girly man pieces?
I don't want to be villified here, and I know Jeepers tend to mock them, but my mostly-stock H2 could do a lot IMO without breaking anything.







These ones are of my friend, but I did the same thing, just didn't get any pics:







Nothing crazy, but I want to be able to do at least as much with the Rubi.

I think a moderately modified Rubi should be able to do more, which is what I want. And a Jeep has an advantage on narrow trails and perhaps other things. But we had to winch out this stock Rubi, and then rolled right over where he was stuck with no problem.



On the other hand, this modified Jeep could do some things I couldn't, and some things I could do, he could do a lot easier:





On the wider stuff, this guy was pretty invincible (much like the military Hmmvs I abused in Middle East and California desert/mountains):







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Old 01-27-2012, 05:58 PM   #7
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Well,

There are people who may say otherwise, but my dealer's service department says an adjustable trac bar may have prevented problems for me:

http://www.wranglerforum.com/f33/wor...le-135460.html

Is it the lack of adjustability or the bolts causing that, if you know? I did recently get the Synergy Suspension Jeep JK F911 Hardware Kit, but haven't installed them yet. Will do soon.
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Old 01-27-2012, 05:59 PM   #8
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Nice pics--you're way ahead of me brother. Why am I giving you advice??

My expectation would be that your Rubi would not have any more of a problem with that stuff than your H2 did, and should indeed be better. The Rubi should be lighter (IIRC . . .), offer considerably more flex, and have a lot better mid-body clearance. And that solid front axle will help too.

Skids might not be the worst idea though. Some of those rocks look pretty gnarly. Maybe add differential skids to your list too.
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Old 01-27-2012, 06:13 PM   #9
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Nice pics--you're way ahead of me brother. Why am I giving you advice??

My expectation would be that your Rubi would not have any more of a problem with that stuff than your H2 did, and should indeed be better. The Rubi should be lighter (IIRC . . .), offer considerably more flex, and have a lot better mid-body clearance. And that solid front axle will help too.

Skids might not be the worst idea though. Some of those rocks look pretty gnarly. Maybe add differential skids to your list too.
The Jeep mods are pretty new to me, so I need all the good advice I can get, and yours is very helpful. I'm kind of like Oddball in Kelly's Heroes, when he said something about his broken Sherman to the effect of: "Man I just drive this thing. I don't know what makes it work." I agree that I'm likely already more capable than the H2, but I just want to make it as break-resistant as reasonably possible, especially since it's also a daily driver. I've got the diff covers ready to install when I get my bumpers in. The only skids I think I don't have are the gas tank and transfer case skids. Since I have stock versions of those on there, I was waiting to add better aftermarket until I got the more vulnerable points covered.
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Old 01-29-2012, 01:55 PM   #10
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Update: 4-Wheel-Parts and Pro-Comp do not have a full list of things that come with the Stage II lift on their websites, and I didn't install it myself (which is a good thing). So, I'm just learning a bit about what I have. It now it looks to me like it has an adjustable front trackbar: ProComp Suspension Part K3090BMX - 4" Stage II Lift Kit with MX-6 Shocks by Pro Comp




The thingy on the bottom looks like the adjustable front Track bar shown here: Front Adjustable Track Bar by Pro Comp

And here: http://www.performance4trucks.com/au...1.pdf&line=EXP

Somewhat embarassed by my lack of knowledge of what I have, my remaining questions would be:

(1) Should I get one of these?: Synergy Suspension Front Track Bar Bracket: http://www.quadratec.com/products/16315_6020.htm
Does something like that really do what is claimed?

(2) Do I need an adjustable rear track bar or adjustable or flexing/rotating front LCAs, like this pricy thingy?: JKS Manufacturing 6150 - JKS Manufacturing Front Lower Control Arms for 07-12 Jeep® Wrangler & Wrangler Unlimited JK - Quadratec
Or are non-rotating LCAs generally okay?

For context, here are pics of what I have:

Adjustable? Front Trackbar:






Front Trackbar - Passenger Side:




Front Lower Control Arm:




Rear Trackbar Bracket:

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Old 01-29-2012, 02:48 PM   #11
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Is it the lack of adjustability or the bolts causing that, if you know? I did recently get the Synergy Suspension Jeep JK F911 Hardware Kit, but haven't installed them yet. Will do soon.
I'm not exactly sure. People here with tons more experiance than me can probably provide better information. All I know is that my dealer said it needed to be added to my truck to keep any damage from happening again. I've been out of Jeeping for many years and just got back in last year. I'm still getting smart on these things.
I've come to trust the dealer mechanics because they do a good job. In fact, I found the Border Patrol here takes their jeep there and going off road is their job.
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Old 01-29-2012, 03:23 PM   #12
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Thanks for the reply Beast. I am feeling a bit better about what I have now. I do, in fact, have an adjustable front trackbar and an adjustable front upper control arm. I suppose I would be somewhat better off with more-flexy front LCAs, but they probably are okay. I will install the Synergy bolt kit soon when I have my new bumpers and skids installed. Maybe I'll be good to go then. Who knows?
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Old 01-29-2012, 04:04 PM   #13
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It looks like you are fine. That rear TB mount looks to be about 2" higher than stock and has a cam bolt. Both eliminate the need for a rear adjustable trackbar.

I think I know you for the Hummer days, sending you a PM.
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Old 01-29-2012, 04:11 PM   #14
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It looks like you are fine. That rear TB mount looks to be about 2" higher than stock and has a cam bolt. Both eliminate the need for a rear adjustable trackbar.

I think I know you for the Hummer days, sending you a PM.
Thanks EAD for the helpful info. Yep, that was me. Thanks for the PM. Glad to see you're doing well. I'll call when I've got some more good questions.
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Old 01-29-2012, 07:38 PM   #15
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From here: http://www.wranglerforum.com/f33/axl...ml#post1973621
Thanks for the helpful responses kbwolf. I knew (or at least hoped) you’d eventually chime in.

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The adjustable CA's are simply to set your Jeep's caster after a lift, usually one of 3" or more. Your caster should be around +4º ~ +6º. If your Jeep tracks straight on the highway at speed, and you don't have to constantly correct your steering, then your caster's probably where you need it to be. Does your Jeep "jump" when it hits a pothole or bad pavement? Does your steering twitch, or feel flighty? Those are signs of improper caster.


My Jeep drives straight, and doesn't twitch or anything like that. It does bump a bit harder than stock when I hit a bump on the street. But it doesn't really "jump." I can’t tell without driving someone else’s that is good whether it’s just the normal inherent truck-like drive that’s typical of a truck with a solid front axle or it can/should be improved.

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If you've got adj upper UCA's, that's fine. That's what I've got on my rig. Some kits come with fixed CA's, designed to ensure a specific caster with the kit they're intended for. For the most part, if you have NO adj ca's but need to fix caster, it's easiest to get adj lowers.

But, like I said, if your Jeep feels good on the highway and your steering is solid, then you shouldn't need to adjust anything.
So, the caster can be kept correct by having either adjustable upper or lower front CAs? I definitely have the adjustable front uppers.

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Nope. Pretty much the only purpose of adj tb's is to center your axles. If they're centered okay, you shouldn't need em. That 1/8" difference in how far each rear tire sticks out is minimal. You're good.
I’m not even saying I have a 1/8” difference. Just that my eye-ball measurement method and my tape measuring method off the inner fender came outo the same, but I could see something like no more than a 1/8” margin of error.

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I'll have to go back over to your thread and read through it...I just scanned it to see if you were getting answers to your questions. Looked to me like MTH and others had things pretty well covered.
Thanks again kbbwolf. Yeah, MTH, Beastmaster, and EAD have been helpful. Let me know if you have any other helpful advice.

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Cool trail pix of the Hummers, btw. Y'all beat the sh** outta those bad boys, don't you?
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I can see why you need your Jeep to be a tank.
I actually didn’t beat mine up too much. They were pretty well-armored, and we generally took things pretty slow with good spotters. The H1 guys, however, sometimes would just slam their way over stuff or push it out of the way (on private land). Thanks again for taking the time to respond.
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Old 01-29-2012, 08:08 PM   #16
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Thanks for the helpful responses kbwolf. I knew (or at least hoped) you’d eventually chime in.

My Jeep drives straight, and doesn't twitch or anything like that. It does bump a bit harder than stock when I hit a bump on the street. But it doesn't really "jump." I can’t tell without driving someone else’s that is good whether it’s just the normal inherent truck-like drive that’s typical of a truck with a solid front axle or it can/should be improved.

When I say jump, it's almost like a jump to the side, from what I understand. I had the same issue as you – my ride is kinda rough (mainly cuz of my E-rated sidewalls), and it was hard for me to judge how it was "supposed" to feel going over potholes and such.

Next time your Jeep's in a tire shop (rotation, if you don't do it, etc) have em tell you the caster reading. In fact, get all of your alignment specs from em (toe-in, camber, caster).


So, the caster can be kept correct by having either adjustable upper or lower front CAs? I definitely have the adjustable front uppers.

Yup, you're good there.

I’m not even saying I have a 1/8” difference. Just that my eye-ball measurement method and my tape measuring method off the inner fender came outo the same, but I could see something like no more than a 1/8” margin of error.

If it was off enough to be a problem, you'd be able to see it.

Thanks again kbbwolf. Yeah, MTH, Beastmaster, and EAD have been helpful. Let me know if you have any other helpful advice.



I actually didn’t beat mine up too much. They were pretty well-armored, and we generally took things pretty slow with good spotters. The H1 guys, however, sometimes would just slam their way over stuff or push it out of the way (on private land). Thanks again for taking the time to respond.

I didn't mean beat-up as in "abused." More like, not treated...gently.
I did have a couple questions from your list of pending stuff above:

For the TF exhaust extension, is that just insurance since, even with the new ds, the ds/exhaust are still really close? Or is the 1350 too fat, and combined with the 4" of lift you've got still able to hit the exhaust if you disco your swaybars?

And the Synergy suspension chromoly tie rod...is that just a matter of beefing up the stocker?

Just curious, more than anything. I think all the other stuff – what you've got now and what you've got coming – will definitely see use.
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Old 01-29-2012, 09:31 PM   #17
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I did have a couple questions from your list of pending stuff above:

For the TF exhaust extension, is that just insurance since, even with the new ds, the ds/exhaust are still really close? Or is the 1350 too fat, and combined with the 4" of lift you've got still able to hit the exhaust if you disco your swaybars?

And the Synergy suspension chromoly tie rod...is that just a matter of beefing up the stocker?

Just curious, more than anything. I think all the other stuff – what you've got now and what you've got coming – will definitely see use.
I definitely will get my caster, camberer, toe-in numbers when I get my remaining suff put on.

as to the TF exhaust extension, I have no reason to believe that I ened it other than that two or three prople on here have said/suggested that, if you really flex the front end of a 2012 Rubi hard with a 4" lift and even with the replacement DSs, you will/may eventually hit the exhaust. So, I figured I could spend the next few weeks/months/years guessing or I could just spend $60 and forget about it and get back to other things.

No one on here has suggested replaing the tie rods. A few local guys insist it's important because they are fragile. Has anyone on here broken or replaced his or hers? It's a totally different system, but you pretty much have to replace the H2s out of the gate. The stock ones are built for the 32-inch truck tires on a Sierra of Suburban and for towing and light off-roading, not for the 35-inch stock H2 tires and serious off-road use(much less the 37-inch tires most off-roaders ran). The stock ones snap like a pencil (it's really the only significant weak point on the H2 IMO other than the independant front suspension). The monster Fab-Tech aftermarket ones can't be broken. So, I can't tell if it's overkill or prudent on the 2012 JKUR. That's why I asked above. I just don't know if I need them. To say I'm still learning about the Jeep I own is my understatement of the month.

One curiosity I have is whether this thing really does what is says for lifted JKs:
http://www.quadratec.com/products/16315_6020.htm (“This bracket raises the vehicles suspension roll center by 3.0." Raising the rollcenter reduces vehicle body roll and dramatically improves overall handling. Special bolt-on design strengthens the factory mount that is prone to failure.”). If so, it would be worth getting.

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Old 01-30-2012, 09:01 AM   #18
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No one on here has suggested replaing the tie rods.
That stuff you posted about the H2 tie rod made me laugh since you know my history with H2 tie rods

One of the first things I did when I got my JK was, yep you guessed it, bent the tie rod

It's not the same problem as an IFS rig. With a SFA the tie rods are long and exposed so it's really easy to hit them on rocks. The stock ones bend easily and the rod ends are not that great either. Most people wait until they bend their OE TR and then replace it with an aftermarket 4130 Chromoly Heat Treated TR with HD rod ends. You can still bend a Chromo TR (yep done that too) but you have to hit them twice as hard .
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Old 01-30-2012, 09:11 AM   #19
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That stuff you posted about the H2 tie rod made me laugh since you know my history with H2 tie rods

One of the first things I did when I got my JK was, yep you guessed it, bent the tie rod
Wasn't that up near Bill Moore Lake? It became quite a YouTube sensation before there even was such a thing as YouTube.

Sounds like I may be wise to get a replacement for my Jeep as well.
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Old 01-30-2012, 09:25 AM   #20
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One curiosity I have is whether this thing really does what is says for lifted JKs:
http://www.quadratec.com/products/16315_6020.htm (“This bracket raises the vehicles suspension roll center by 3.0." Raising the rollcenter reduces vehicle body roll and dramatically improves overall handling. Special bolt-on design strengthens the factory mount that is prone to failure.”). If so, it would be worth getting.
Yes, those brackets do exactly that and also eliminate the need for adjustable track bars. I'm lifted 5.5" running 37s on a JKU and have those brackets front and rear with the stock OE track bars. My tracking is off by maybe 1/8" so I left it like that, for over 4 years now actually.

On the front end there is another thing to think about and it's steering geometry. What you really want is for the track bar and drag link to be close to parallel at about the same angle as they are stock. That pretty much eliminates bump steer. I think the best way to do that is how Synergy handles it. Lift the TB up with the bracket and then flip the drag link so it's on top of the knuckle instead of below it.

This is what mine looks like.

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Old 01-30-2012, 09:29 AM   #21
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I definitely will get my caster, camberer, toe-in numbers when I get my remaining suff put on.

as to the TF exhaust extension, I have no reason to believe that I ened it other than that two or three prople on here have said/suggested that, if you really flex the front end of a 2012 Rubi hard with a 4" lift and even with the replacement DSs, you will/may eventually hit the exhaust. So, I figured I could spend the next few weeks/months/years guessing or I could just spend $60 and forget about it and get back to other things.

No one on here has suggested replaing the tie rods. A few local guys insist it's important because they are fragile. Has anyone on here broken or replaced his or hers? It's a totally different system, but you pretty much have to replace the H2s out of the gate. The stock ones are built for the 32-inch truck tires on a Sierra of Suburban and for towing and light off-roading, not for the 35-inch stock H2 tires and serious off-road use(much less the 37-inch tires most off-roaders ran). The stock ones snap like a pencil (it's really the only significant weak point on the H2 IMO other than the independant front suspension). The monster Fab-Tech aftermarket ones can't be broken. So, I can't tell if it's overkill or prudent on the 2012 JKUR. That's why I asked above. I just don't know if I need them. To say I'm still learning about the Jeep I own is my understatement of the month.

One curiosity I have is whether this thing really does what is says for lifted JKs:
http://www.quadratec.com/products/16315_6020.htm(“This bracket raises the vehicles suspension roll center by 3.0." Raising the rollcenter reduces vehicle body roll and dramatically improves overall handling. Special bolt-on design strengthens the factory mount that is prone to failure.”). If so, it would be worth getting.
I replaced my stock 2012 tie rod with a Rock Krawler HD Pro Tie Rod Rock Krawler Catalog. Here is a video that might help explain what your friends are talking about regarding the stock tie rod being fragile:


If you are looking at the Synergy Track Bar Bracket, it does work. There are many companies that sell brackets like that. I have the Rock Krawler setup that replaces the stock steering components with beefier bars and flips the drag link for better steering geometry Rock Krawler Catalog. The kit includes a bracket that is similar to the Synergy bracket that you mention. An added bonus is that the RK kit also has the steering stabilizer relocation point built into the bracket that mounts the stabilizer up higher, so that you are less likely to hit the stabilizer on the rocks.
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Old 01-30-2012, 09:29 AM   #22
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Wasn't that up near Bill Moore Lake? It became quite a YouTube sensation before there even was such a thing as YouTube.
I deny any knowledge of said H2 fail video
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Old 01-30-2012, 09:36 AM   #23
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The kit includes a bracket that is similar to the Synergy bracket that you mention. An added bonus is that the RK kit also has the steering stabilizer relocation point built into the bracket that mounts the stabilizer up higher, so that you are less likely to hit the stabilizer on the rocks.
Synergy is the same, actually you can put the stabilizer exactly where you want by drilling a new hole. RC make great parts as to Synergy, obviously I am a Synergy dealer and owner so have a preference, but you won't go wrong with either. I believe in picking one or the other brand and sticking with it. They mostly test components with their other components and mixing an matching has never made much sense to me.
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Old 01-30-2012, 09:44 AM   #24
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Synergy is the same, actually you can put the stabilizer exactly where you want by drilling a new hole. RC make great parts as to Synergy, obviously I am a Synergy dealer and owner so have a preference, but you won't go wrong with either. I believe in picking one or the other brand and sticking with it. They mostly test components with their other components and mixing an matching has never made much sense to me.
I totally agree when it comes to suspensions. I understand people wanting to pick and choose between companies to get the best, but those companies probably didn't test their products with other companies' components. Each suspension is engineered to work with a specific company and it probably isn't a good idea to mix and match different companies' parts.

Synergy and RK both make great stuff. I have some Synergy components, but my suspension is all RK. I can't complain about either company. If the OP wants to stick with Synergy, they make a similar setup to the RK setup that I mentioned in my above post.
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Old 01-30-2012, 10:17 PM   #25
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I deny any knowledge of said H2 fail video
Yeah, it looked kind of like cartoon animation, so I figured that video was digitally animated by some nefarious guy trying to make it look like you snapped a tie rod.

Thanks for the info guys. Looks like I will order the bracket.
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Old 02-20-2012, 11:02 PM   #26
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So, I had the bumpers and other stuff installed, including the front trackbar bracket. I still wasn't satisfied with how it drove on the street. At the time, I had:

Pro Comp 4" Stage-II Lift Kit with MX-6 Shocks;
J.E. Reel 1350 Front DS;
Rancho Steering Stabilizer;
Synergy Suspension Front Track Bar Bracket;
Synergy Suspension Jeep JK F911 Hardware Kit; and
Teraflex Exhaust Extensions.


So, I took a gamble, and just added:

Synergy Suspension Jeep JK Front Track Bar (replaced ProComp TB);
Synergy Suspension Adjustable Front Lower Control Arms (replaced fixed ProComp LCAs);
Synergy Suspension Chromoly Tie Rod; and
Synergy Suspension High Steer Drag Link (flipped).

Dang! I'm really not kidding: it rides like an independent front suspension Tahoe or something now, but has even more potential articulation than it did before for the fun off-road stuff. It's like night and day. Before, it was fine, and I was used to it. But now, I don't feel the bumps and it drives like a Lincoln Towncar on the highway. Glad I did all that, though it wasn't painless.

Night pics:










And I added a winch:







I'm done for a while, but the installer (High Tech in Chantilly) is going to fabricate for me a permanent metallic fix for the Transfer Case Bushing debacle: http://www.wranglerforum.com/f33/not...eel-99139.html

He's looking at something metal and removable, but will essentially will be bolted in place.

FWIW, the best the installer could achieve with the previous parts was a caster of 3.36*. It's now set at 5.15* (both averaging left and right).

Thanks to OAD Offroad for the good advice and prompt shipment of the parts.

It drives like a dream now.
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Old 02-20-2012, 11:44 PM   #27
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Hahaha...first two photos remind of some of the structural steel I used to see when building highrises. Overkill piled on redundancy with a little bit of insurance stability thrown, just because.

I know, I know...it's all necessary.

Kidding aside, MH, that is a bad beast.
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Old 02-21-2012, 12:35 AM   #28
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Hahaha...first two photos remind of some of the structural steel I used to see when building highrises. Overkill piled on redundancy with a little bit of insurance stability thrown, just because.

I know, I know...it's all necessary.

Kidding aside, MH, that is a bad beast.
Thanks Wolf. Yeah, it's possibly overkill, but it drives better than stock now. Next, the installer is going to wrap the exhaust with some heat-resistant foamy substance of some sort because the exhaust extensions and the pictured skid plate, which is designed to go on over the stock exhaust, like to rattle together a bit occasionally at low speed throttling. It's always something. When reversing out of the driveway and throwing it into drive, wifey says "What the Hell is that!?" "Nothing Honey. It's just the skid plate. I'll fix it."

Eventually, I'll add new rear DS and more skids for the EVAP, mid-section, and gas tank, but it's getting close to what I want. I also want to try to do someting about that big fat muffler hanging down from the rear end. I know I'm going to smash that when I roll off of some big rock once I get the chance.
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Old 02-21-2012, 10:07 AM   #29
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Your install shop did a nice job!!

I've been running that same setup for years and it drives just as nicely 4 years later.
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Old 02-21-2012, 10:13 PM   #30
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Your install shop did a nice job!!

I've been running that same setup for years and it drives just as nicely 4 years later.
Thanks again for the good advice and parts. I'm really happy with it.

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