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Old 03-20-2011, 07:21 AM   #1
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adjustable ball joint for 2011 jk

Yesterday I went to advance auto parts to have my JK alignment checked. They were able to adjust everything except the camber. I was told to set the camber correctly they needed an adjustable ball joint but that there are none available yet for my 2011 JK.

Is this true? If not and any of you know about an adjustable ball joint that I can get, please share the part number and where you got it from.

Thank you!

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Old 03-21-2011, 02:32 PM   #2
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WOW! Looks like nobody has heard of this, anyone please advise...

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Old 03-21-2011, 02:46 PM   #3
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Yes it's true. Camber is set to factory settings and are not adjustable.

Except with adjustable ball joints

Now, something is up. That camber shouldn't be out. Do you wheel? Camber out of spec is a tell-tale sign of a bent axle
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Old 03-21-2011, 02:56 PM   #4
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Are the current ball joints good? Sometimes a bad one will throw an out of spec reading. So getting a new stock one will fix it and bring it back in.

Off-set ball joints don't move it a lot, just a little.

What I would do is get a second opinion before you start buying shit. If u can, get to a 4wd shop and let them check it out. Camber is weird. You need to jump on the bumper to get an accurate reading, so a shop can show you bad numbers, say u need this and this, and sell parts you don't need.

The 4wd shops know the deal. If it's still out of spec, get the axle and ball joints inspected. A bent C, tube, shaft...all throw out that reading, as well as a failing ball joint
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Old 03-21-2011, 04:19 PM   #5
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They are adjustable and the same from 07 and up and NAPA has them availble. They go from 1/2 to 2 degrees. They are 97$ a side over the counter in my store. And they are available in all warehouses. I can give part #'s if you need.
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Old 03-21-2011, 04:30 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by makotoshishio View Post
...They were able to adjust everything except the camber....
Go to a different wheel alignment place.

The only adjustment is toe in. Caster and Camber are fixed by design and not adjustable without aftermarket parts and will not be out unless you have bent something or lifted it.

Even so, the toe-in and camber do not alter when lifted, only the caster. If your camber is out I would be checking the diff for bends rather than fitting aftermarket parts.

Did they give you any details of the specs it was currently set at?
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Old 03-21-2011, 06:03 PM   #7
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I don't get the advanced auto thing? Thy are a horrible parts store and they do alignments? They can't hire real counter people never mind a good technican
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Old 03-21-2011, 06:58 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by John412
I don't get the advanced auto thing? Thy are a horrible parts store and they do alignments? They can't hire real counter people never mind a good technican
I don't even let those jokers scan me lol
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Old 03-21-2011, 07:41 PM   #9
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The joke in my field of business is that they are the walmart of parts stores. Don't want to hijack so I'll Leave it alone now. If the op need assistance let me know
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Old 03-21-2011, 08:53 PM   #10
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They are adjustable and the same from 07 and up and NAPA has them availble. They go from 1/2 to 2 degrees. They are 97$ a side over the counter in my store. And they are available in all warehouses. I can give part #'s if you need.
Thank you, please provide part numbers so that I can check on it.
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Old 03-21-2011, 08:59 PM   #11
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Caster and Camber are fixed by design and not adjustable without aftermarket parts and will not be out unless you have bent something or lifted it.

Did they give you any details of the specs it was currently set at?
Mine was lifted about two weeks ago, 2.5" lift. Also not using stock tires, I got now 33/12.5R17

No, they did not provided the details, I guess I might be able to go and ask for them.

I really really doubt I have bent something. I mean, I have only go wheeling on it 2 times on easy to moderate trails. Never hit hard anything and never fell hard on any rock or anything that could bend something. Is brand new, less than 3500 miles.
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Old 03-22-2011, 03:30 AM   #12
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Ah ok. In that case the toe and camber should have still been at the factory default but the caster will have dropped to around 3 to 3.5 degrees.

I would get the results of their measurements and drop the info back into here. For your info the camber should be about -0.6 to -0.1 degree each side (thats leaning in at the top), the toe in should be 0.07 to 0.13 degrees positive per wheel (thats about 0.5 to 1 mm positive toe per wheel) and caster should be 3.7 to 4.7 degrees stock (4.5 to 5 degrees is preferrable with the larger tyres and lift - mine at 2.5in is just under 4 and the steering is very light). As I mentioned, the caster is the only one that should have changed with a lift that did not include adjustable control arms or cam bolts.

Hope you get it sorted
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Old 03-22-2011, 02:29 PM   #13
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Thank you, please provide part numbers so that I can check on it.
264-2972 thats for 1/2 deg

264-2973 1 deg

264-2974 1 1/2 deg

264-2975 2 deg

Those are for one side so you would need to order 2 of them

Like I said there 97$ each at regular retail price in my store and may be more or less depending on the market you are in or how greedy or desperate the store you shop in is.
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Old 03-22-2011, 03:23 PM   #14
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264-2972 thats for 1/2 deg

264-2973 1 deg

264-2974 1 1/2 deg

264-2975 2 deg

Those are for one side so you would need to order 2 of them

Like I said there 97$ each at regular retail price in my store and may be more or less depending on the market you are in or how greedy or desperate the store you shop in is.
thank you! I'll see what I can do; will try to get the specs of my alignment to find out what exactly is going on. Thank you!
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Old 03-25-2011, 12:14 PM   #15
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Subscribed. We have run into a similar issue after lifting the JK 2.5" with the Teraflex bb kit....
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Old 03-25-2011, 12:50 PM   #16
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Subscribed. We have run into a similar issue after lifting the JK 2.5" with the Teraflex bb kit....
Really!, could be that the lift does not measure exactly 2.5" on each side, it could be off a little bit and that causes the camber to be out of spec. I'm trying to get the current camber settings that were taken @ advance auto parts. I called them today and they said they will c, wait, they just called me back. they said that after alignment they don't save the settings on their system, so I have to take it there to get it measure again, free of charge. Then I will order the required ball joint from the ones listed above on this thread.
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Old 03-25-2011, 10:37 PM   #17
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Nope. The lift has nothing to do with camber or toe in, like I mentioned before these do not change with any amount of lift and you could take the spring out on one side only (leaving the chassis/body leaning right over) and the camber and toe in will still not change. Have a look under neath at your front end, the camber is the amount the top of the wheel is leaning in. The diff housing through to the C holding the ball joints in is effectively all one peice that is still sitting in the same place it was before the lift. All you have done is seperate the chassis from the axle by a couple of inches. Now because the control arms angle has changed, this will rotate the diff forward at the top slightly (lifting the pinion up) which is adjusting the caster settings.

I repeat - I would not be pulling ball joints out of a brand new vehicle to fix a camber issue until the reason for the issue is resolved. Camber can only be out if the current ball joints are failing (will have to much camber - wheels lean in to much at the top) or if the diff is bent (could send the wheels in any direction, but usually more tipped in at the top again).

The standard ball joints are not real flash I should add, using plastic in them which will wear, but not in 3500 miles!

Heres the standard JK balljoints,



This is the Poly Performance HD replacements (cut away view..):

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Old 03-26-2011, 08:33 AM   #18
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I've seen a stock unmodified 2011 JK with zero offroad miles on it that needed balljoints replaced at 64 miles. My 2011 JK needed the balljoints replaced at 5000 miles. The stock balljoints are absolute garbage.

I found out my balljoints were shot when I tried to get a front end alignment, and just like the original poster, my camber was out of spec. A new set of Poly Performance balljoints fixed the problem.
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Old 03-26-2011, 09:19 AM   #19
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So........ how hard is it to replace the ball joints?
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Old 03-26-2011, 10:47 AM   #20
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I wouldnt be paying for labour to diagnose and fix a bad ball joint at 3500 miles. I would be calling the dealer for a warranty claim.

Getting the old ball joint out is the hard part. If you are lucky a good hard thump with two hammers from oposing sides at the same time will loosen them enough that a thump on the threaded end will pop them right out (works for me most times) but if it doesnt then a removal tool is required. Seen a couple of different ones, from a screw on puller to a forked wedge you hammer underneath it.

Do a quick google image search for ball joint remocal tool and you will see a few variations.
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Old 03-26-2011, 12:07 PM   #21
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I wouldnt be paying for labour to diagnose and fix a bad ball joint at 3500 miles. I would be calling the dealer for a warranty claim.
Only one problem with that. They are going to install the same garbage balljoint that already needs replaced. Might as well upgrade to a better aftermarket balljoint.
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Old 03-26-2011, 01:53 PM   #22
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Quote:
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So........ how hard is it to replace the ball joints?
They aren't too bad.

In a nutshell you remove the wheel, brakes, and rotor. Pull the speed sensor and bearing unit. Pull the tie rod and bang out the drag link. Separate the steering knuckle, then you press out the old ball-joints and press in new ones. The C is heavy as hell when you're crawling around on the ground like an idiot and banging those joints is loud. Your neighbors think your breaking stuff

Then you got to put all that back together. It takes a Saturday afternoon :P but isn't too bad compared to other things.

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