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Old 06-20-2013, 03:49 PM   #1
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AEV 2.5 springs

I have the AEV 2.5 with 315 Duratracs set at 28 psi. The ride is still so dang rough and bumpy my newborn son's head bounces around like a bobblehead doll! All the reviews I read before getting the lift said the Bilstein shocks were the greatest things ever, so is it the triple rate coils that are just too stiff? Could I, or should I replace the springs with a softer spring that'll smooth out all the little head-bobbing bumps and let me keep my fillings a little longer?

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Old 06-20-2013, 03:59 PM   #2
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I have the AEV 2.5 with 315 Duratracs set at 28 psi. The ride is still so dang rough and bumpy my newborn son's head bounces around like a bobblehead doll! All the reviews I read before getting the lift said the Bilstein shocks were the greatest things ever, so is it the triple rate coils that are just too stiff? Could I, or should I replace the springs with a softer spring that'll smooth out all the little head-bobbing bumps and let me keep my fillings a little longer?
My AEV 2.5 setup with 35 falkens at 28 psi are smooth and better ride quality than stock. My 2 dr rubicon 2013 tips scales at more than 5000 pounds loaded more like 5500. AEV designed the lift for a fully loaded jeep n maybe you are to light for it to smooth out.

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Old 06-20-2013, 04:08 PM   #3
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That's what I've been thinking. I'm still running stock bumpers and I have 3" out of the lift. This will be the perfect excuse to tell m'lady I need bumpers and a winch!
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Old 06-20-2013, 04:12 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by flomingo View Post
I have the AEV 2.5 with 315 Duratracs set at 28 psi. The ride is still so dang rough and bumpy my newborn son's head bounces around like a bobblehead doll! All the reviews I read before getting the lift said the Bilstein shocks were the greatest things ever, so is it the triple rate coils that are just too stiff? Could I, or should I replace the springs with a softer spring that'll smooth out all the little head-bobbing bumps and let me keep my fillings a little longer?
I have almost the same setup as you. AEV 2.5 and 315 Duratracs, have to check where my PSI is at now. I can say is the ride is better than stock; softer, less body roll and nose dive; stock bumpers and no added weight. The ride is very quiet and the springs progressive rate is felt when loaded; but definitely soft when unloaded with no spare or bumpers.

Did you over torque your control arms? Preload the bushings?

I did add an adjustable track bar up front and changed the boths on BOTH ends to the correct size. Jeep really botched that one!
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Old 06-20-2013, 04:43 PM   #5
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I just put the AEV on my JKU and love it. Subjective, but I find it more stable than stock and still one of the most comfortable I've ridden in.

I'm also running stock bumpers. I didn't check your profile but are you by chance running 4 door springs on a 2 door?
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Old 06-20-2013, 06:03 PM   #6
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There is a recent post on another forum. Same issue but using 3.5" springs.

AEV coil/shock tune works best on a loaded jeep running 35" tires at around 28 psi.

Are you running AEv correction brackets ?
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Old 06-20-2013, 06:14 PM   #7
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It's a 4-door, and I torqued torqued the control arms to spec. What do you mean by preloading the bushings?
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Old 06-20-2013, 06:17 PM   #8
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With tires on the ground. You are freeing the bushings at stock ride height, loosening and allowing to find their new home with the higher lift height.

Not doing so can bind the bushings and from what I read, can cause handling issues/premature bushing wear.
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Old 06-20-2013, 06:33 PM   #9
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Yup. Kjeeper knows what he's talking about.

It's a real bitch, but ALL control arms and both track bars need to be fully loose. Then set her down on the wheels, rock the crap out of Jeep front to back and side to side. THEN, still fully on its own weight crawl underneath and torque 'em.

Absolutely get the Geo brackets, bur shouldn't be a super stiff ride issue. Maybe you did get the 3.5"?
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Old 06-20-2013, 06:39 PM   #10
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^^^
Agree. I have about 600 HARD miles on my new AEV 2.5 lift and it drives better than it ever has. Definitely have those control arms loose when you set her down, just make sure you also retorque all associated bolts too. I forgot to torque one bolt on the geo bracket and it sounded like World War III whenever I hit a bump.

The ride should be better with AEV, not worse. Is it stiff? Yeah, but more controllable and predictable.
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Old 06-20-2013, 06:44 PM   #11
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im with everyone else , just put this lift in 2.5 on the 4 door with 315 70 17 duratracs ( 33 psi btw), i do have steel front bumper plus skid and spare in the back , but i gotta say smoothest ride in a jeep ive ever felt . I also did the geo brackets and to boot i tightened all the control arm while the jeep was in the air (doh) but so far no problem straight and smooth , couldn't be happier
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Old 06-20-2013, 06:45 PM   #12
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i have a rough country and love it but the ride improved once i flexed it out really good i guess really stretching and compressing the springs relaxed the springs. might be worth a shot after you loosen everything and really bounce hard on it and re tourqe everything.
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Old 06-20-2013, 07:21 PM   #13
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Did you get the Bilstein shocks specifically valved to AEV specs, or did you buy regular 5100s? Agree on the control arms. What rating are the DuraTracs? D or E?
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Old 06-20-2013, 08:33 PM   #14
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Ahhhh yes... I know what you mean by preloading the bushings now! I have the Bilsteins that came with the 2.5 kit and also have the geo-correction brackets...

When my buddy installed the kit, he insisted on keeping it on floor jacks while we torqued everything.. Looks like I'm breaking out the jack stands and torque wrench tomorrow!

I guess it's a good time to swap out the bolts with the grade 8 kit I got from Northridge 4x4!

Thanks everyone, I'll let y'all know how it goes!

(I never realize just how Texan I am until I spell out "y'all")
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Old 06-20-2013, 09:01 PM   #15
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Grab this $10 24" breaker bar from HF. Anchor one end against the ground and torque the other.
Makes torquing a ton easier.
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Old 06-20-2013, 09:12 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by kjeeper10 View Post
Grab this $10 24" breaker bar from HF. Anchor one end against the ground and torque the other.
Makes torquing a ton easier.
Genius idea! Thanks!

Since I'm also running light and have 3" of lift I need to switch to the 3.5" holes on my geo-correction brackets. Is that something I need to do with it on the ground or jacked up? I remember we had a TOUGH time just getting it into the 2.5" holes, maybe because we didn't have it on the ground?
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Old 06-20-2013, 10:21 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by flomingo View Post
Genius idea! Thanks!

Since I'm also running light and have 3" of lift I need to switch to the 3.5" holes on my geo-correction brackets. Is that something I need to do with it on the ground or jacked up? I remember we had a TOUGH time just getting it into the 2.5" holes, maybe because we didn't have it on the ground?
Yes on the ground
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Old 06-21-2013, 02:25 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flomingo View Post
Ahhhh yes... I know what you mean by preloading the bushings now! I have the Bilsteins that came with the 2.5 kit and also have the geo-correction brackets...

When my buddy installed the kit, he insisted on keeping it on floor jacks while we torqued everything.. Looks like I'm breaking out the jack stands and torque wrench tomorrow!

I guess it's a good time to swap out the bolts with the grade 8 kit I got from Northridge 4x4!

Thanks everyone, I'll let y'all know how it goes!

(I never realize just how Texan I am until I spell out "y'all")
Don't forget to check the axle side front track bar bolt. I am not sure why, but most of these bolt kits don't include this one. It needs to be changed to a shouldered 9/16 as well. I just bought an extra one at Ace and put a regular hardened nut and washer on the back. You don't need a flag nut there.
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Old 06-21-2013, 02:58 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by HK_Runner View Post
Did you get the Bilstein shocks specifically valved to AEV specs, or did you buy regular 5100s? Agree on the control arms. What rating are the DuraTracs? D or E?
This^ are your tires E rated by any chance? I have the same set up on a 4 Dr with e rated 285/75 open country 2's. It is a pretty good ride, but those tires can be a bit jarring at times.
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Old 06-21-2013, 06:16 PM   #20
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They are D rated
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Old 06-21-2013, 07:17 PM   #21
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Get a paint pen and mark the bolt head and the frame /metal so you can readily see any loosing that may occur. I had two bolts loose after a trail ride and had to re-torque them. It is easy to spot with a yellow paint pen marking.
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Old 06-21-2013, 10:09 PM   #22
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Used a paint pen when we first did the lift and surprisingly not a single bolt has come loose.. We red-loctited everything and everything has held in place for about 6000 miles including two pretty decent wheeling trips.. I'll be sure to mark everything again when I upgrade the hardware this weekend
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Old 06-22-2013, 08:06 AM   #23
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Let us know how it feels after the changes. At 28 psi, my ride is a bit stiff with 5100s- much better at 25. However, my RK RRD shocks were unbearable at even 22 psi...though the compression was softer (it was till very harsh). So after you do all this, see how it feels. If still harsh, at least drop your tire pressure to 25 and see how it feels. I have heard that the AEV coils are stiff for a JK that is not fully loaded with bumpers and all. My installer said they were thicker than RK or Synergy coils. Apparently, he has used them all. Anyway, I hope you find the fix quickly...my harsh-riding Jeep was such a draining and miserable experience while it drove like crap for a couple of months after the lift.
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Old 06-22-2013, 08:46 PM   #24
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Rancho 9000 Adjustable Shocks

I have had the AEV 2.5 on my JKU for a year now. The ride has been beating me up the whole time. I just switched to Rancho 9000 adjustable shocks (against AEV's advice). The ride is soooo much better. I am now in love with my Jeep again. The Bilstein's are not good, and AEV's hype about how they have been specially tuned for the 2.5 lift is misleading in my opinion. You can get a $100 rebate on the Rancho 9000's through the end of June.
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Old 06-22-2013, 08:53 PM   #25
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Good to know. The only two shocks I would ever use (besides the 5100s, which I have now) are the OMEs and Ranchos. I wish I hadn't spent so much on all my issues, with the Rock Krawler kit and install issues. I'd have tried both (Ranchos and OMEs) those, and finally sold the other two sets.
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Old 06-23-2013, 08:52 AM   #26
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Let us know how it feels after the changes. At 28 psi, my ride is a bit stiff with 5100s- much better at 25. However, my RK RRD shocks were unbearable at even 22 psi...though the compression was softer (it was till very harsh). So after you do all this, see how it feels. If still harsh, at least drop your tire pressure to 25 and see how it feels. I have heard that the AEV coils are stiff for a JK that is not fully loaded with bumpers and all. My installer said they were thicker than RK or Synergy coils. Apparently, he has used them all. Anyway, I hope you find the fix quickly...my harsh-riding Jeep was such a draining and miserable experience while it drove like crap for a couple of months after the lift.
I found the 5100's to be harsh hitting bumps. felt up the spine. The fox shocks I'm using now are are very stiff but dampen bumps (small to medium) well, very well. The large stuff and general feel of the road does get annoying at times, like there's no flex to the suspension over changes in road direction/uneven road. I experimented and disconnected my front swaybar links. The ride was improved and softened but way to squirrelly for my taste. Felt l like riding on under inflated tires. I've since bought a set of longer links for the front. My front bar sits about 5* low using the crap stock links still.
Only reason why I bought the Fox shocks is I got them so cheap. Would I go back to the Rancho's ? Yep .... I toyed with the idea of trying the new 7000's but everything I read is they are a shock similar to the 5100's although valved a little bit softer.
Having a lifted 2 door is the issue. Especially if nothing's done to bring the wheel base back out. Front to back the suspension has little time to absorb the road. You have to take comments from 4 door drivers with a grain a salt. They can get away with a stiffer shock because of the increased wheelbase.
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Old 06-23-2013, 05:33 PM   #27
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Yeah, and the 500 extra lbs of vehicle weight probably makes things smoother as well, but that longer wheelbase does matter the most.
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Old 06-28-2013, 04:22 PM   #28
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Well I got the bolts swapped out on the front trackbars & LCAs to the grade 8 bolts from NR4x4.. I ran out of time for the rear. I don't know if it's just in my head, but it feels a little better. Still a stiff ride but not quite like before. I can tell I changed something because the steering is off a little. I'll get to work on adjusting the drag-link and swapping out the rear LCA hardware this weekend.

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