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AEV 2.5 vs 3.5 lifts??

36K views 53 replies 21 participants last post by  JimmyW 
#1 ·
Hey guys,

Ive been doing some homework for lift kits. Ive been looking at the AEV lifts. Im leaning towards the 2.5in lift. However, I see the 3.5in lift is about $800 more, but comes with more parts. I'm not extremely knowledgeable about suspensions..... Soooo can you please tell me what the 3.5 has different then the 2.5...and is those extra parts something I really need? I have a 13 JKU Rubicon 10A. Thanks. :pc-ouch:
 
#2 ·
The 3.5 comes with an AEV Procal- allows you to set tire size, gears, etc...
Steering stabilizer and high steer kit
Geometry correction brackets - to eliminate bump steer
Taller springs

Both ride very well but I think the 3.5 handles better.
I have the AEV 3.5 and my brother has the 2.5.
 
#3 ·
I was originally going to go with the 2.5" AEV lift, but went with the 3.5". The extra parts of the:

Procal - $170
Geo Corr Brackets - $105
Jack Stand - $60
High Steer Kit with Steering Stab - $375
Plus 2.5" Kit - $980
Total $1690

AEV 3.5" Kit - $1800

Difference of $110

For me I went with the 3.5" for the minimal price difference. And it would give me the flexibility to go to 37" tires instead of the 35" I presently went with. As far as the ride. I've not been in the 2.5", but can say I thoroughly enjoy and am satisfied with the 3.5" ride.

Here's mine with the 3.5" lift.

 
#4 ·
I was originally going to go with the 2.5" AEV lift, but went with the 3.5". The extra parts of the:

Procal - $170
Geo Corr Brackets - $105
Jack Stand - $60
High Steer Kit with Steering Stab - $375
Plus 2.5" Kit - $980
Total $1690

AEV 3.5" Kit - $1800

Difference of $110

For me I went with the 3.5" for the minimal price difference. And it would give me the flexibility to go to 37" tires instead of the 35" I presently went with. As far as the ride. I've not been in the 2.5", but can say I thoroughly enjoy and am satisfied with the 3.5" ride.

Here's mine with the 3.5" lift.

What size wheels are those? And do you need those extra parts that the 3.5 has??
 
#5 ·
You will need a procal(AEV) or Flashcal(superchips) programmer to adjust your computer for the new tire size. The high steer kit is not necessary on a 2.5" kit, but the Geo correction brackets do make a difference.
 
#9 ·
I have a 2012 with the AEV 3.5" kit (now passed down to daughter), and a 2016 with the AEV 2.5" kit. As previously mentioned, the 2.5" does not require the high steer kit, but I did add the geometry correction brackets. I went with the 2.5" for several reasons:
  • Was still able to use 35" tires
  • It was cheaper, but still had AEV quality
  • It was easier to climb in/out of
  • The center of gravity is lower
 
#13 ·
I went through the same dilemma a month ago and got the 3.5" AEV kit. I chose it because I felt it was more complete and wanted the ability to ensure that I would not have any rubbing issues off road with 35s. I have been extremely happy with the lift. It rides nicely on road and while I have only done some light trails with it so far it has worked well. Install was pretty simple and straightforward. Drilling the knuckle for the drag link flip was kind of a hassle but ultimately not a big deal. I think you will be happy with either but I really like the look of the 3.5" lift with 35s on a JKU. Good luck.
 
#19 ·
You wont need a new front drive shaft. All you need is some exhaust spacers. They are not very expensive and are very easy to install.
 
#16 ·
I had the 2.5 on my 2dr. I went with that kit because I felt it was enough to clear 35s retained a lower cg and better drive line angles since I didn't plan on doing arms and possibly new drive shafts. I did go with geo brackets. I'm pretty happy with it. I just picked up a jkur that I'm swaping the lift over to now that my 4dr Springs came in. One thing that's in the back of my mind is a 4dr may drag it's belly more with the 2.5 but I'll just have to see. With bumpers and winch it's a true 2.5 it was around 3.25 before weight.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
 
#20 ·
So confused! Been modding cars for years but new to Jeep. Some have said I need a Adams drive shaft kit, some say you can do a new Y pipe, some say just exhaust spacers.

When I was looking at the Teraflex 2.5" lift they said I'd need an exhaust spacer.

Came across this on AEV's site regarding the 3.5". So maybe you just need a different drive shaft on a 2007 - 2011.


Notes:
2012+ Exhaust Clearance: Installation on a 2012+ JK requires a minor exhaust system modification to clear the driveshaft, which can be done at your local exhaust shop.
2007-2011 Driveshaft: For installation on a 2007-2011 automatic trans JK we recommend a narrower drive shaft
Diesel Compatibility: To install on a 2011+ Diesel JK with a Diesel Particulate Filter (DPF), you will also need AEV's custom DPF tube.
 
#21 ·
I would follow their recommendations but on a 2015 all that was needed was an exhaust spacer to keep the boot on the drive shaft from contacting the exhaust. Some people will opt for the drive shaft, others the y pipe, but all thats needed is spacers that will push the exhaust down and back to create the clearance. 07-11 I can not answer that question but my brother had a 08 with a 3.5" lift with no drive shaft mods.
 
#23 ·
2.5 AEV and 33 Toyos. Daily driver and goes anywhere.
 
#28 ·
I used the AEV 2.5 kit with GCB's on all of ours.


 
#35 ·
It depends on the build but it's hit or miss. Sometimes you need an exhaust spacer, sometimes you don't. You definitely won't need a new driveshaft. On occasion a small exhuast mod is needed which any exhaust shop can do.
 
#34 ·
No discounts on AEV stuff.
MSRP
 
#36 ·
I got mine from RubiTrux no discount but they do offer very fast free shipping and an LED worklight with the purchase.

As far as your exhaust if it didn't come with a now Y pipe up front with clearance built in you will need spacers.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
#38 ·
Those running the geo correction brackets - are they worth it? I've lifted my 2 door 2.5" and have been considering the brackets, but haven't found anyone who has used them yet
 
#44 ·
That's what I've heard. He almost made it sound like if they had the room to use the high steer kit on the 2.5" kit, then they would have used it. I have no experience with lifted vehicle (tons of lowered vehicles) but I would think the 2.5' would ride better than the 3.5' unless the high steer kit makes that much of a difference.

In that case, I assume the 2.5" kit with the FOX ATS should be pretty comparable since the the geometry will not change much?
 
#45 ·
Awesome, thanks for the info!
 
#54 ·
I'm looking at the AEV 2.5" kit for my 2015 JKUR-HR, but also the Teraflex 3" (1256220). The TF costs ($2,100) quite a bit more, but includes more "stuff." If you add some items to the AEV 3.5" to make it comparable with the TF, it's about the same cost. I really don't want 3.5, and could live with a 2.5. I have the TF 2.5 Budget Boost now. (My unit's specs are below.)

Anyway, I don't want to hijack this thread, so I may start a new one to get some AEV/TF comparisons. But, a TF tech told me that an exhaust spacer ($50) is all that's required for a lift; you don't need a driveshaft.
 
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