Ive been doing some homework for lift kits. Ive been looking at the AEV lifts. Im leaning towards the 2.5in lift. However, I see the 3.5in lift is about $800 more, but comes with more parts. I'm not extremely knowledgeable about suspensions..... Soooo can you please tell me what the 3.5 has different then the 2.5...and is those extra parts something I really need? I have a 13 JKU Rubicon 10A. Thanks. c-ouch:
The 3.5 comes with an AEV Procal- allows you to set tire size, gears, etc...
Steering stabilizer and high steer kit
Geometry correction brackets - to eliminate bump steer
Taller springs
Both ride very well but I think the 3.5 handles better.
I have the AEV 3.5 and my brother has the 2.5.
I was originally going to go with the 2.5" AEV lift, but went with the 3.5". The extra parts of the:
Procal - $170
Geo Corr Brackets - $105
Jack Stand - $60
High Steer Kit with Steering Stab - $375
Plus 2.5" Kit - $980
Total $1690
AEV 3.5" Kit - $1800
Difference of $110
For me I went with the 3.5" for the minimal price difference. And it would give me the flexibility to go to 37" tires instead of the 35" I presently went with. As far as the ride. I've not been in the 2.5", but can say I thoroughly enjoy and am satisfied with the 3.5" ride.
I was originally going to go with the 2.5" AEV lift, but went with the 3.5". The extra parts of the:
Procal - $170
Geo Corr Brackets - $105
Jack Stand - $60
High Steer Kit with Steering Stab - $375
Plus 2.5" Kit - $980
Total $1690
AEV 3.5" Kit - $1800
Difference of $110
For me I went with the 3.5" for the minimal price difference. And it would give me the flexibility to go to 37" tires instead of the 35" I presently went with. As far as the ride. I've not been in the 2.5", but can say I thoroughly enjoy and am satisfied with the 3.5" ride.
You will need a procal(AEV) or Flashcal(superchips) programmer to adjust your computer for the new tire size. The high steer kit is not necessary on a 2.5" kit, but the Geo correction brackets do make a difference.
I have a 2012 with the AEV 3.5" kit (now passed down to daughter), and a 2016 with the AEV 2.5" kit. As previously mentioned, the 2.5" does not require the high steer kit, but I did add the geometry correction brackets. I went with the 2.5" for several reasons:
I was torn on that one as well, but went with the 2.5" since I have the two door. I'd go 3.5" for sure with the 4-door. I did buy the correction brackets and procal.
I went through the same dilemma a month ago and got the 3.5" AEV kit. I chose it because I felt it was more complete and wanted the ability to ensure that I would not have any rubbing issues off road with 35s. I have been extremely happy with the lift. It rides nicely on road and while I have only done some light trails with it so far it has worked well. Install was pretty simple and straightforward. Drilling the knuckle for the drag link flip was kind of a hassle but ultimately not a big deal. I think you will be happy with either but I really like the look of the 3.5" lift with 35s on a JKU. Good luck.
I had the 2.5 on my 2dr. I went with that kit because I felt it was enough to clear 35s retained a lower cg and better drive line angles since I didn't plan on doing arms and possibly new drive shafts. I did go with geo brackets. I'm pretty happy with it. I just picked up a jkur that I'm swaping the lift over to now that my 4dr Springs came in. One thing that's in the back of my mind is a 4dr may drag it's belly more with the 2.5 but I'll just have to see. With bumpers and winch it's a true 2.5 it was around 3.25 before weight.
So confused! Been modding cars for years but new to Jeep. Some have said I need a Adams drive shaft kit, some say you can do a new Y pipe, some say just exhaust spacers.
When I was looking at the Teraflex 2.5" lift they said I'd need an exhaust spacer.
Came across this on AEV's site regarding the 3.5". So maybe you just need a different drive shaft on a 2007 - 2011.
Notes:
• 2012+ Exhaust Clearance: Installation on a 2012+ JK requires a minor exhaust system modification to clear the driveshaft, which can be done at your local exhaust shop.
• 2007-2011 Driveshaft: For installation on a 2007-2011 automatic trans JK we recommend a narrower drive shaft
• Diesel Compatibility: To install on a 2011+ Diesel JK with a Diesel Particulate Filter (DPF), you will also need AEV's custom DPF tube.
I would follow their recommendations but on a 2015 all that was needed was an exhaust spacer to keep the boot on the drive shaft from contacting the exhaust. Some people will opt for the drive shaft, others the y pipe, but all thats needed is spacers that will push the exhaust down and back to create the clearance. 07-11 I can not answer that question but my brother had a 08 with a 3.5" lift with no drive shaft mods.
I went with the 2.5" AEV and 315/70R17 Cooper STT PROs on Onyx Pintlers....like was mentioned before, firm but not harsh...I ended up getting a little over 3" of lift. Very happy with it.
Another quick question, I have a corsa dual tipped exhaust, anyone run the 3.5 inch with an aftermarket exhaust? If so, did you use a spacer or a new drive shaft?
It depends on the build but it's hit or miss. Sometimes you need an exhaust spacer, sometimes you don't. You definitely won't need a new driveshaft. On occasion a small exhuast mod is needed which any exhaust shop can do.
Those running the geo correction brackets - are they worth it? I've lifted my 2 door 2.5" and have been considering the brackets, but haven't found anyone who has used them yet
That's what I've heard. He almost made it sound like if they had the room to use the high steer kit on the 2.5" kit, then they would have used it. I have no experience with lifted vehicle (tons of lowered vehicles) but I would think the 2.5' would ride better than the 3.5' unless the high steer kit makes that much of a difference.
In that case, I assume the 2.5" kit with the FOX ATS should be pretty comparable since the the geometry will not change much?
I'm looking at the AEV 2.5" kit for my 2015 JKUR-HR, but also the Teraflex 3" (1256220). The TF costs ($2,100) quite a bit more, but includes more "stuff." If you add some items to the AEV 3.5" to make it comparable with the TF, it's about the same cost. I really don't want 3.5, and could live with a 2.5. I have the TF 2.5 Budget Boost now. (My unit's specs are below.)
Anyway, I don't want to hijack this thread, so I may start a new one to get some AEV/TF comparisons. But, a TF tech told me that an exhaust spacer ($50) is all that's required for a lift; you don't need a driveshaft.
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