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Old 08-05-2010, 04:57 PM   #1
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After Lift Alignment???

Well I made it through the lift decision without coming on and asking the usual what lift is best question but I have looked ahead at the install and have a question.

First I went with a Rubicon Express 3.5 standard kit. Had everything I wanted at a good price and I can upgrade to the superflex later when I have the cash for those and new drivelines. I will be running OME shocks with the kit. The install looks pretty straight forward and from the reading I have done it seems cam bolts are a touchy subject. Fact is I will be running them until I get new control arms.

The question I have is in regard to caster and pinion angle. I will install the lift and cam bolts but as far as adjusting them or anything would that not be something the alignment shop would do? I plan on taking it down right after to get it into spec as close as possible. I just figure they have the equipment to read these angles and might as well do the adjusting. Am I off base here?

Also would I tighten them to factory spec? The instructions say to tighten all factory bolts to factory specs but those won't be factory bolts and no torque spec is given. Thanks in advance for any help.
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Old 08-06-2010, 04:50 AM   #2
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I had to tack-weld my cambolts to keep them from shifting when subjected to torsional forces offroad. If I could get in the wayback machine, I'd have gotten some lower control arms instead.
Aside from that, factory torque rates and threadlock. And a 4x4 shop will have better luck aligning it than the dealer.

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Old 08-06-2010, 05:39 AM   #3
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I had my kit installed last April, Poly Performance.

My kit came with cam bolts as well but lucky for me, my installer "forgot" to install them.

After that discovery, I was ready to call them and complain but before I did, I happen to read something online about control arms and read that it's a pain to install them correctly if you already have cam bolts installed. That's because some metal needs to be cut away from the holes in the axle mounts making it more difficult to install real control arms in the future.

So I bagged the cam bolt idea, bit the bullet and bought Tera Flex adjustable lowers. I'm so glad I did!
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Old 08-06-2010, 06:33 AM   #4
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The dealer won't have a clue about setting up all the angles, either take it to a 4x4 shop or find out where they get the alignments done, some 4x4 shops don't do the alignments and send them out to be done.
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Old 08-06-2010, 09:42 AM   #5
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I would forgo Cam Bolts and get Adjustable control arms. JMHO
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Old 08-06-2010, 10:35 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iamagolfspaz
I would forgo Cam Bolts and get Adjustable control arms. JMHO
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Old 08-06-2010, 02:24 PM   #7
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Thanks for the responses guys. I use an alignment shop instead of the dealer.

I will probably just tack the cam bolts in place for now. As long as the adjustment is there to get me in spec I'm going to use the bolts for now. If the biggest deal is them moving then a couple tacks will take care of that in my own shop. I don't want things moving because I will be offroading it hard afterwards. Also repairing the mounting locations after removing the tabs is no biggie for me. I have lots of metal laying around and have no problem running a welder.

I appreciate and respect the opinions of all who posted. I wish it were as easy as just picking up control arms for now. I would need front lowers and rear uppers to eliminate the cam bolts from this setup. Might as well get all the arms then and once I do that I need drivelines. I spent a bunch getting a winch,recovery gear,bumpers,lift,diff sliders, and a tuner so I am tapped out. That is a major chunk to upgrade to the superflex with all the trimmings. I fully plan to do so but I'm gonna be a tack welding mofo for now. I will be helping my buddy do his tj lift from the same company with all the arms. He had the big bucks.

Again thanks for the help
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Old 08-07-2010, 05:35 AM   #8
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You'll be good then, Cold. Aside from cambolts shifting, I've never had a problem with their overall function. As long as everything else is in order you'll be fine.

Regarding "everything else", what are your plans for wheels/tires/etc?
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Old 08-07-2010, 10:47 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hilldweller View Post
You'll be good then, Cold. Aside from cambolts shifting, I've never had a problem with their overall function. As long as everything else is in order you'll be fine.

Regarding "everything else", what are your plans for wheels/tires/etc?
I think it will be ok if movement is the only issue. I sure would like to get a hands on look at the things to wrap my head around it. Soon enough.

I tell you what. I bought the rubicon with the idea that I would not want to modify it for awhile. That did not last long. Even though the thing is highly capable from the factory I can't keep from modding it. Just a hair over a month of ownership and the money is just flying at it.

I currently have purchased and installed a cb and and roll bar grab handles at all four doors. I have purchased and am waiting on shipping on a front modular winch bumper,flat fenders,warn 9000i,front and rear diff sliders,3.5 lift,hard top liner and a superchips. I just got done picking up all my recovery gear like snatchblocks,straps,chains, shackles and such. Not cheap. Next on the list is the lod rear bumper/tire carrier with the jerry can holders and rack. After that I am skinning the belly with the full river raider system. Then I can settle into wheels and tires and the rest of the superflex system. The wheels and tires are going to take awhile so I can make up my mind. There is another 4 door rubicon around here with what looks like a 3inch teraflex lift and 35's. Looks great but really shows that the rock rails need trimming in the back. My mind keeps saying 33's but my heart wants 35's. I was going to ask the guy how they did offroad but he litteraly has a fake mud vinyl wrap on it. Unbelievable. That and armor all on the tires.

I really like the look of 35's. No problem trimming the rails. Just don't want to have to regear right now. I am also looking for the right wheels. I want something in a 16x8 finished in black. I would like alloy to save weight but all the ones I can find are too damn fancy. I want an alloy in something that looks like a soft 8 or similar. Price then becomes an issue. I would pay more for the right wheel though.

This weekends plans include extending my breathers(I like to play in the water) and sandblasting the rest of the new front diff slider. That brings up something kind of funny. I was sanding down the areas I could get to yesterday and I was thinking about other mods and how most everyone seems to not want to touch cam bolts due to the extra time and effort involved with installing them and switching over to true arms afterwards. Your talking to the guy who spent an hour and a half grinding powdercoat off a brand new perfectly good diff slider yesterday because I didn't like the color. I'll have it ready for powdercoat this weekend. Should have just dragged out the sandblaster to begin with though. Did I say I love my jeep.

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