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Old 05-20-2014, 01:40 AM   #1
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Analysis Paralysis: Lift/Tires Any input helpful!

I've researched everything I can find, and just cannot bring myself to pull the trigger on my suspension upgrade. The guy at the 4x4 shop is likely getting tired of my indecision. I would very much appreciate any input you guys have on the suspension options. I'm hoping to finally decide this week.

Rig: '14 JK Unlimited Rubicon (JKUR) Manual transmission with 4:10 gearing. Stock except for bumpers (have Rock Hard front and rear with tire carrier), and a winch. This Jeep is not my daily commuter, but I do take it on trails and in the snow (I'm above the snowline). I'm not looking to be a hard-core rock crawler, but I live only 15 miles from the Rubicon Trail entrance, and I swear I can hear it calling me... So I do want to be able to run it, even if I take bypasses

Mods I've decided on:
- ARB 44 Differential covers
- Evap canister relocation
- oil/trans skid plate
- poison spyder rock brawler sliders (replace stock rubi sliders)

Suspension option I (4" w/ 35s)
- Teraflex Elite 4" LCG long arm kit 9550 shocks
- 1310 front driveshaft
- Goodyear Duratrac 34.8" tires

Suspension option II (6" w/ 37s)
- Teraflex Elite 6" LCG long arm kit 9550 shocks
- Rear HD adj trackbar
- 1310 front / 1350 rear driveshaft
- Toyo 37" MT tires

Down the road upgrades
- re-gearing
- chromalloy axles
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Old 05-20-2014, 01:43 AM   #2
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You might want to try posting a message here:

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Old 05-20-2014, 01:57 AM   #3
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Thanks Starbrite. Reposted there
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Old 05-20-2014, 04:13 AM   #4
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Honestly bud .. Less is better. For a 35 stay around 2.5-3" For a 37 3"-4"

Flat fenders and playing with bump stop height will give you plenty of up travel. Shock length/down.

Tire size .. Well only you can make that call. Stuck to a 35 if you don't plan on axle upgrades.
Gussets, sleeve/truss, rear shafts, etc

Are you dead set on long arms ?
Sticking w/ TF
http://www.quadratec.com/products/16190_2301.htm

Rock krawler has some nice kits too. Check out their long arm and 3 link kits.


Ken
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Old 05-20-2014, 04:31 AM   #5
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I'll add here because I don't want to hijack his thread.

I noticed you "cared deeply" concerning flighty steering.
Back to lift height .. Unless running a aftermarket housing like a pro rock, TF or currie W/ added caster. Your steering/pinion angles up front are impossible to balance. Add a aftermarket DS (most likely need at that height) and Pinion angle takes precedents over caster = poor steering.

Here's a little more info on that
Jeep Jk, Caster and lifting.
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Old 05-20-2014, 08:45 AM   #6
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^^^ What he said.

Less is more when it comes to lift unless you have the money to dump into maintaining the integrity of the jeep on a lift higher than 2.5" - 3" (the modification required really start to snowball).

Having a lower center of gravity is actually a good thing and if you really don't plan on being a hard core rock crawler than you most likely won't need that much lift.
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Old 05-20-2014, 08:47 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IMDaveReynolds View Post
Suspension option I (4" w/ 35s)
- Teraflex Elite 4" LCG long arm kit 9550 shocks
- 1310 front driveshaft
- Goodyear Duratrac 34.8" tires
Not sure if you got that height from goodyear or not but Id bet money if your looking at metric sized duratracs (315/70r17) you wont be anywhere near 35". Mine measured in at 33.5" on 17x9 wheels.
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Old 05-20-2014, 11:55 AM   #8
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Oh, that's not good news... I just used a metric-standard converter I found on extremeterrain.com it said 34.4" snip attached
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Old 05-20-2014, 12:37 PM   #10
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Most listed sizes are not true. That's still tech a 35" tire
tech based on what? Its size is its size regardless of what the calculator says. I would argue that since the tire ACTUALLY measures 33.5" its technically a 33" tire.

When I alter the PCM I put in 33.5 I dont put in the metric size or advertised size or 35", but its real size.

Im not sure where exactly calling a tire thats 33.5" tall a 35" tire is technically correct/accurate for anything.


IMDaveReynolds, for reference here is my 315 next to stock rubi before lift.
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Old 05-20-2014, 12:40 PM   #11
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tech based on what? Its size is its size regardless of what the calculator says. I would argue that since the tire ACTUALLY measures 33.5" its technically a 33" tire.

When I alter the PCM I put in 33.5 I dont put in the metric size or advertised size or 35", but its real size.

Im not sure where exactly calling a tire thats 33.5" tall a 35" tire is technically correct/accurate for anything.

I believe he is saying that with the listed dimensions it's "technically" a 35" tire (and priced accordingly) but in actuality it measures closer to a 33" tire.
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Old 05-20-2014, 12:48 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by GreenMachine13 View Post
I believe he is saying that with the listed dimensions it's "technically" a 35" tire (and priced accordingly) but in actuality it measures closer to a 33" tire.
Thank you
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Old 05-20-2014, 12:50 PM   #13
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I believe he is saying that with the listed dimensions it's "technically" a 35" tire (and priced accordingly) but in actuality it measures closer to a 33" tire.
Arguing symantecs at this point......

Based on its metric label it may fall into the 35" tire category in a catalog but the very term "technically" refers to strict and accurate meaning....ie "
according to the facts or exact meaning of something; strictly."
which clearly shows that regardless of its label or position in a catalog, its not a 35" tire.
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Old 05-20-2014, 01:19 PM   #14
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Ok.,, so technically it's "not" a 35" .. it's safe to say it is, and most consider it a 35" tire. If you measure a listed 35" listed tire .. Most come in smaller anyways.

Fwiw .., I run 315/75/16 ... A 35" tire
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Old 05-20-2014, 01:39 PM   #15
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Fwiw .., I run 315/75/16 ... A 35" tire
I suppose if Goodyear can get away with false advertising so can you

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