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Old 03-14-2012, 06:43 AM   #1
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Anyone have to get a new driveshaft with their lift kit?

About to pull the trigger on a RE 3.5" kit, and noticed that it said driveline modification required with 2012 JK models. Any ideas?

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Old 03-14-2012, 07:07 AM   #2
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Originally Posted by mattdenney07 View Post
About to pull the trigger on a RE 3.5" kit, and noticed that it said driveline modification required with 2012 JK models. Any ideas?
When you add aftermarket shocks that are longer than the stockers (anything more than about 25"), the increased downward travel can cause contact between your stock ds and the exhaust pipe. Your also putting your ds at a severe angle that, over time, can cause it to fail.

I'm sure there'll be people who chime in here and say, "I'm running a 4" lift and have no problems."

However, if your shocks are long enough on a '12, your ds and exhaust pipe will hit when you off road, or when you disco your swaybars. You may not damage your stock ds for weeks, or months, or even years.

Whether or not you change it is up to you.

If you do, you'll want a 1310 driveshaft from Tom Woods, JE Reel or Coast.

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Old 03-14-2012, 07:40 AM   #3
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Originally Posted by kbwwolf View Post
When you add aftermarket shocks that are longer than the stockers (anything more than about 25"), the increased downward travel can cause contact between your stock ds and the exhaust pipe. Your also putting your ds at a severe angle that, over time, can cause it to fail.

I'm sure there'll be people who chime in here and say, "I'm running a 4" lift and have no problems."

However, if your shocks are long enough on a '12, your ds and exhaust pipe will hit when you off road, or when you disco your swaybars. You may not damage your stock ds for weeks, or months, or even years.

Whether or not you change it is up to you.

If you do, you'll want a 1310 driveshaft from Tom Woods, JE Reel or Coast.
+1
^^^ This is good info. I've heard two different shock lengths. I've heard longer than 25" and longer than 27.5". I'm not sure which is correct, but if your shocks are longer than that, your driveshaft will hit the crossover exhaust on a 2012.

I'm running a 3.5" RK lift with 29" shocks. Even with a smaller diameter aftermarket 1310 Coast driveshaft, it was really close to hitting the crossover at full droop. It would definitely have hit with the stock driveshaft. I think I had about 1/4" clearance at full droop with the new driveshaft installed. I installed an aFe y-pipe to relocate the exhaust and now there is no clearance issue.

Relocating the exhaust would have saved me the cost of the new driveshaft, but the stock driveshaft angle at the transfer case gets pretty steep when lifted. At some point the pinched stock cv boot will tear and you will need to replace the driveshaft anyway. I did it ahead of time as a preventative measure.
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Old 03-14-2012, 11:45 AM   #4
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i got a 10 with 27" extended shock lengths w/ stock drive shafts 20k miles
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Old 03-14-2012, 11:52 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by pluke the 2 View Post
i got a 10 with 27" extended shock lengths w/ stock drive shafts 20k miles
10 is completely different than a 2012....
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Old 03-14-2012, 11:53 AM   #6
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Tom Woods Driveshafts
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Old 03-14-2012, 11:55 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by bo9roadking View Post
+1
^^^ This is good info. I've heard two different shock lengths. I've heard longer than 25" and longer than 27.5". I'm not sure which is correct, but if your shocks are longer than that, your driveshaft will hit the crossover exhaust on a 2012.

I'm running a 3.5" RK lift with 29" shocks. Even with a smaller diameter aftermarket 1310 Coast driveshaft, it was really close to hitting the crossover at full droop. It would definitely have hit with the stock driveshaft. I think I had about 1/4" clearance at full droop with the new driveshaft installed. I installed an aFe y-pipe to relocate the exhaust and now there is no clearance issue.

Relocating the exhaust would have saved me the cost of the new driveshaft, but the stock driveshaft angle at the transfer case gets pretty steep when lifted. At some point the pinched stock cv boot will tear and you will need to replace the driveshaft anyway. I did it ahead of time as a preventative measure.

Longer than a 27.5" shock with an after market 1310 driveshaft it will hit your exhaust. You can not run a 29" shock with a 1310 Drivshaft it will rest on the exhaust at full drop.

I wheeled mine this weekend with 27.5" shock, JE Reel 1310 driveshafts with no problems. Granted the clearance is very tight but it will not hit
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Old 04-24-2012, 07:57 PM   #8
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Any input on a 2011 for this guys. I've got same lift coming in as the op (it's back ordered from factory btw). I want to buy the front and rear Tom woods driveshafts bc I just like things to match. Can't afford it yet though.

So with a 3.5" re lift on a 2011 how emergent is the driveshaft in the front? I was hoping I could go 2-3 months so I could afford to get what I want. Already dropped a few grand in the past week on this whole project so trying to step back for a bit on the pocket book
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Old 04-24-2012, 09:28 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by kbwwolf View Post
When you add aftermarket shocks that are longer than the stockers (anything more than about 25"), the increased downward travel can cause contact between your stock ds and the exhaust pipe. Your also putting your ds at a severe angle that, over time, can cause it to fail.

I'm sure there'll be people who chime in here and say, "I'm running a 4" lift and have no problems."

However, if your shocks are long enough on a '12, your ds and exhaust pipe will hit when you off road, or when you disco your swaybars. You may not damage your stock ds for weeks, or months, or even years.

Whether or not you change it is up to you.

If you do, you'll want a 1310 driveshaft from Tom Woods, JE Reel or Coast.
X2^^^
Even with the stock Rubi suspension on a 2012 when disconnected, my front stock drive shaft would get close enough to the exhaust to melt the rubber boot with any extended time flexing offroad. I don't know what the Chrysler engineers were thinking when they redesigned the exhaust on the 2012s. They don't make the AFE Y-pipe for the 2 door. The best option is an aftermarket drive shaft.
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Old 04-24-2012, 11:45 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by snochick View Post
Any input on a 2011 for this guys. I've got same lift coming in as the op (it's back ordered from factory btw). I want to buy the front and rear Tom woods driveshafts bc I just like things to match. Can't afford it yet though.

So with a 3.5" re lift on a 2011 how emergent is the driveshaft in the front? I was hoping I could go 2-3 months so I could afford to get what I want. Already dropped a few grand in the past week on this whole project so trying to step back for a bit on the pocket book
You should be able to wait a little while. Maybe even a long while. The '07-'11's don't have quite the immediate need for a new ds, as they don't have the exhaust crossover to contend with.

A 3.5" lift is right on the verge of putting your front (especially) ds at a bad angle. Some folks drive their Jeeps with a similar setup, and don't have to address the ds for years.

I'd just keep an eye on the CV joint (not the long, accordion-like rubber boot in the center...that's your slip joint, and it's not crucial). If you tear the CV joint and see grease striping the underside of your Jeep, you'll know you've got about 100 miles before you need a new ds.
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Old 04-24-2012, 11:57 PM   #11
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You should be able to wait a little while. Maybe even a long while. The '07-'11's don't have quite the immediate need for a new ds, as they don't have the exhaust crossover to contend with.

A 3.5" lift is right on the verge of putting your front (especially) ds at a bad angle. Some folks drive their Jeeps with a similar setup, and don't have to address the ds for years.

I'd just keep an eye on the CV joint (not the long, accordion-like rubber boot in the center...that's your slip joint, and it's not crucial). If you tear the CV joint and see grease striping the underside of your Jeep, you'll know you've got about 100 miles before you need a new ds.

Thank you very much for that. Knowing what to look for is half the battle. I do plan to get the drive shafts, I just want to go with Tom Wood's and so I'd prefer to save the $$$ to get the ones I want. They made my driveshafts for my TJ about 10 years ago and I couldn't have been happier with the product. So that's automatically who I looked up this go around.

I realize I'm on the verge of the "go big" category with this Jeep already. And that's ok. We're both aircraft mechanics, and this is my 3rd Jeep, so I can hold my own with it so long as I can find the literature to guide me. But, I'm also adamant about doing my research and making sure I don't spend money now when I could instead save up and do it up a little better in a month or two.
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Old 04-25-2012, 12:04 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by snochick View Post
Thank you very much for that. Knowing what to look for is half the battle. I do plan to get the drive shafts, I just want to go with Tom Wood's and so I'd prefer to save the $$$ to get the ones I want. They made my driveshafts for my TJ about 10 years ago and I couldn't have been happier with the product. So that's automatically who I looked up this go around.

I realize I'm on the verge of the "go big" category with this Jeep already. And that's ok. We're both aircraft mechanics, and this is my 3rd Jeep, so I can hold my own with it so long as I can find the literature to guide me. But, I'm also adamant about doing my research and making sure I don't spend money now when I could instead save up and do it up a little better in a month or two.
Can't go wrong with Tom Woods, IMO.

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But, I'm also adamant about doing my research and making sure I don't spend money now when I could instead save up and do it up a little better in a month or two.
Research and planning is the way to go, without a doubt. I spent months figuring out my build, and have yet to have a problem.

Now that I said that, something will blow up.
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Old 04-25-2012, 05:52 AM   #13
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They don't make the AFE Y-pipe for the 2 door. The best option is an aftermarket drive shaft.
I don't believe this is correct ... As i understand it, the aFe pipe DOES fit the 2-dr just fine. I have it on my 4-dr and it works great. Given my experience with it, I'd recommend the pipe first.


aFe pipe on Quadratec

T
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Old 04-26-2012, 08:43 AM   #14
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I don't believe this is correct ... As i understand it, the aFe pipe DOES fit the 2-dr just fine. I have it on my 4-dr and it works great. Given my experience with it, I'd recommend the pipe first.


aFe pipe on Quadratec

T
I think Quadratec is wrong. The aFe website doesn't have a y-pipe listed for a 2 door. I also have the y-pipe installed and it needs clearance on the passenger side to clear the crossmember. The pipe runs so close to the fuel tank as it goes over the crossmember that heat shields are provided. I don't think there is enough clearance to get past the fuel tank on the 2 door because the shorter wheelbase moves the fuel tank closer to the engine compartment.

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