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Old 07-03-2012, 02:50 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by kjeeper10 View Post




Yep,,, the drag link is adjustable I believe which is part the the "included" high steer kit
Cool. I guess that's the contraption at the top of the pic in the link.

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Old 07-03-2012, 02:55 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by MarineHawk

Cool. I guess that's the contraption at the top of the pic in the link.
Lol

Now I wish I could go back and just do the whole kitten caboodle.
Save money in the long run

That RK lift is fantastic. All 8 arms plus the steering correction. I'm happy with my $300 Rancho 9000's shocks

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Old 07-03-2012, 03:21 PM   #33
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Newb (again)- but I don't have any steering jerk nor does the Jeep change direction. My butt moves- not the Jeep. Just harder over freeway bumps than stock. Plus I don't have any padding so maybe I am sensitive. LOL. Is this still considered "bumpsteer"? Its the only issue I have and its totally tolerable, I just expected "better" than stock overall- freeway, road & trail. Plus women are never happy.
The OP plans on being 98% on-road I believe.
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Old 07-03-2012, 03:32 PM   #34
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well, marine hawk is somewhat right.

the first thing to do is make sure your axles are centered, so if they aren't you need to buy adjustable trackbars. second thing to do is to get front lower control arms, unless you're already at normal caster 4-6*, and get back normal caster. the third thing to do is to get the draglink flip kit installed which will eliminate bumpsteer more than any of the other components. those other components are not for bump steer.

so you may have your axles centered, and your caster might be ok, but when you hit a bump and the steering wheel moves under your control, that's all bump steer and can be eliminated by doing a flip with the draglink and raising your trackbar up 3" but this also has to mirror the rear or your front and rear will move on different axis.....
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Old 07-03-2012, 03:36 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JeepHerz
Newb (again)- but I don't have any steering jerk nor does the Jeep change direction. My butt moves- not the Jeep. Just harder over freeway bumps than stock. Plus I don't have any padding so maybe I am sensitive. LOL. Is this still considered "bumpsteer"? Its the only issue I have and its totally tolerable, I just expected "better" than stock overall- freeway, road & trail. Plus women are never happy.
The OP plans on being 98% on-road I believe.
What you running for shocks?
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Old 07-03-2012, 04:30 PM   #36
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Originally Posted by pluke the 2
Lol, noooo!

She wasn't happy with how it felt off road. Meaning, when she would go over bumps it was way to rough. Which in my opinion is something all people aren't really used too when they first start out. Especially, if you're not aired down/ disconnected.
I was aired down and disconnected. And I've been wheeling for going on about 15 years now. I actually learned to drive my dads log skidder before I knew how to drive a car. I was also the only female entrant at the very last jeep fest in Leeds/Bradford 11 years ago. Pics of the mud bird were still on the site last I checked if it's still even an operational website.

So trust me when I'm comparing our jeeps I'm just being picky. I'm pretty OCD with how my rig goes. Right now his out does mine a bit and hubby will be the first to tell ya just how competitive I get with him on that stuff. Mine just rides rougher than his does. It's not a huge difference but I can definitely fine tune a line easier in his than I can in mine. I'll get it where I want it though. She's still new.

For the cost difference though, go with the teraflex. My mopar kit does fine but the teraflex was better bang for the buck.
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Old 07-03-2012, 04:43 PM   #37
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2 1/2" inches on the hubby's ride or more? I can't remember.
Your Mopar is the 4" kit right?
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Old 07-03-2012, 04:52 PM   #38
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I am/was wanting to stay between 2.5-3inches or so. Was hoping not to have to buy diff or upgraded drive shafts. Just wanted to get something with extra lift for bigger tires that is not real complicated so I could get out and wheel some. Had no idea it was this involved. One of the reasons i was interested in mopar was because i wouldn't/shouldn't need to adjust stuff, or so I thought. Did not want to have to weld on brackets or stuff like that. Mainly just wanted bolt up. Thought itvwould be easier than stuff that could come loose. RG
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Old 07-03-2012, 05:52 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rundm
I am/was wanting to stay between 2.5-3inches or so. Was hoping not to have to buy diff or upgraded drive shafts. Just wanted to get something with extra lift for bigger tires that is not real complicated so I could get out and wheel some. Had no idea it was this involved. One of the reasons i was interested in mopar was because i wouldn't/shouldn't need to adjust stuff, or so I thought. Did not want to have to weld on brackets or stuff like that. Mainly just wanted bolt up. Thought itvwould be easier than stuff that could come loose. RG
You my friend just experienced lift overload
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Old 07-03-2012, 06:10 PM   #40
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I've only lost small chunks of hair and a little sanity since I decided to lift my JK. Simple is not so simple.
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Old 07-03-2012, 07:12 PM   #41
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Originally Posted by JeepHerz
2 1/2" inches on the hubby's ride or more? I can't remember.
Your Mopar is the 4" kit right?
Hubby's kit is 3". Mine is 4". That wasn't by choice though. 4" is overkill for 35's but the dealer at least did all the necessary extras meh is all good. 3" with 35's is about as far as you can go without spending a small fortune. But even then don't go cheap. You'd regret it.
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Old 07-03-2012, 10:31 PM   #42
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Talked with Jason at Krawl off road about the rk 2.5 pro aluminum set up and it sounds pretty sweet. According to him, it would take care of all the things that I am wanting and not wanting like being able to run the 35s and not having to change out drive shafts and stuff. That along with packaging up some ace rock guards, I might have to jump on it. Still not sure yet but it is coming along. Gotta come up with the ducks. Tires arn't here yet anyways so don't know how long they are gonna take.
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Old 07-04-2012, 09:22 AM   #43
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Also, anyone have any experience with the clayton offroad set up? Havn't heard anything about them in this thread
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Old 07-04-2012, 10:19 AM   #44
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Also, anyone have any experience with the clayton offroad set up? Havn't heard anything about them in this thread
Clayton is a good company from what I see.

Basic $1099.00
http://claytonoffroad.com/product_in...roducts_id/319


Better $2099.00
http://claytonoffroad.com/product_in...roducts_id/319
But still doesn't address highsteer or shocks which can be added **

The 4 door basic kit addresses the front pinion/caster angle only. the rear is ok on a 4 door. The 2 door kit adds rear upper ca's.


(Thinking)
If you did the basic kit, add EVO/Polly steering correction ($300) and shocks, you have a pretty decent lift for under $2k

Small print (**)
"Front CV driveshaft highly recommended on Automatics (Tom Woods Driveshafts)
Optional high steer kit requires welding"
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Old 07-04-2012, 10:27 AM   #45
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Mine is 4". That wasn't by choice though. 4" is overkill for 35's ...
I've read that on here many times, but it's only true for some, depending on what you want to do.
You don't need a 4" to fit 35s on there, but it's not overkill if you do.

I have a 4" lift and 35s, and still rub just a little occasionally at full compression with sway-bars discoed. The higher the lift, the more articulation and clearance. My buddy with whom I go off-roading has two trail-only rigs. On this YJ, he has only 33s, but over least 9" of lift. Because of that, he can go some places either more easily than I or places I can't:





You don't need monster tires as much as you need clearance. My friend is going to put some 37s or 38s on there when he changes a few things out, but, for what I like to do, 4" is not overkill, but underkill, with 35s.

I only wouldn't go past a 6" lift because mine's still my DD for now.
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Old 07-04-2012, 10:37 AM   #46
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Those are cool pics. I hope to have everything lined up before may of next yr so we can do Palo Dura.
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Old 06-17-2013, 09:18 PM   #47
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any more reviews on this lift after having it on for a year.... etc
thanks
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Old 06-18-2013, 08:27 AM   #48
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14K on my '13 and still lovin' the Mopar Stage 3... not a single issue. With 35s, the lift worked flawlessly. I recently went to 37s that required rear pinch seam trimming, trimming of my Bushwacker flat flairs, and an adjustable front trac bar to better center the front axle. Off road performance has been excellent, going down the road is too. The lift is turning out to be money well spent as far as I'm concerned.
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Old 06-20-2013, 10:34 AM   #49
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I have to agree with Off Pavement. I've had this lift on for 15 months (only about 11k miles so far) on my 12 JKUR with no problems. Love it on and offroad. Been to Moab 3 times so far, and have done lots of trails here in Colorado. We've done mostly rock crawling, but the lift really seems to excel in fast twisty and bouncy offroad or dirt road sections.

Jim
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Old 06-20-2013, 10:08 PM   #50
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off pavement and CULR8,
you guys running this lift with the limit straps as supplied?... etc.
if you are, do you find you get enough articulation with the limit straps.?.. you don't see many using them... not that they don't have there purpose..

looking at this lift for $2200... the fox shocks and speed bumps are probably aren't items I need but thinking of mopar for warranty...


thanks
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Old 06-24-2013, 09:14 PM   #51
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I'm running the lift with straps, for my wheelin' in Nevada, I see no need for more articulation. While this Jeep is used off road on difficult trails almost exclusively, it isn't a hard core rock rig. I've not run into any trails yet that I wanted more articulation.

As far as your Mopar warranty, this is a controversial topic. Some dealers have told their customers that using the Mopar lifts will not void their warranty. True, but neither will any of the other lifts out there I'm quite certain. If you read the fine print of warranties, it makes it pretty clear that aftermarket parts are not covered, but unless they are proven to be the cause of a warranty related failure, you should be covered. You can read plenty around about dealers and warranty work when someone modifies their vehicle. It sounds like it can get pretty messy with plenty of denied claims no matter what lift brand you choose, but with that said, at over 14K miles, I've got not complaints.
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Old 06-24-2013, 10:24 PM   #52
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Thanks for the reply..
sounds exactly what I'm doing with my Jeep... or at least my old 2DR..
Friday I went over to the dealer and talked to the service manager about the warranty topic... basically all a mopar lift (or other item) does is give them a little more leverage when dealing with the factory reps to get things covered.. so for example if you do a 4" mopar lift and your drive shaft breaks,,, it most likely will not be covered... just lift if it was a RK, TF, AEV, or other lift....

I am looking at the Rock Krawler lifts.. also..
cheers


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Originally Posted by Off Pavement View Post
I'm running the lift with straps, for my wheelin' in Nevada, I see no need for more articulation. While this Jeep is used off road on difficult trails almost exclusively, it isn't a hard core rock rig. I've not run into any trails yet that I wanted more articulation.

As far as your Mopar warranty, this is a controversial topic. Some dealers have told their customers that using the Mopar lifts will not void their warranty. True, but neither will any of the other lifts out there I'm quite certain. If you read the fine print of warranties, it makes it pretty clear that aftermarket parts are not covered, but unless they are proven to be the cause of a warranty related failure, you should be covered. You can read plenty around about dealers and warranty work when someone modifies their vehicle. It sounds like it can get pretty messy with plenty of denied claims no matter what lift brand you choose, but with that said, at over 14K miles, I've got not complaints.

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