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Old 03-17-2013, 01:30 PM   #1
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Anyone with a '13 running low on coolant??

My coolant reservoir is totally empty and when I sit at a redlight the temp gauge rise just a bit. WTF!!!!

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Old 03-17-2013, 01:33 PM   #2
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Mine was down a lot after I burped the system to get rid of the water noise in the dash, but wasn't empty.
I had to buy the special coolant from the Jeep dealer, don't faint when you see the price.
Take it back to the dealer and have it checked out
Pete

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Old 03-17-2013, 01:33 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by ONETANGO View Post
My coolant reservoir is totally empty and when I sit at a redlight the temp gauge rise just a bit. WTF!!!!
Add some fluid and watch a few dys see if it vanishes
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Old 03-17-2013, 01:56 PM   #4
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Subscribed! I'm picking up my 2013 on Monday, hopefully. Thanks for bringing this to our attention!
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Old 03-17-2013, 03:11 PM   #5
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Fill the overflow bottle back up to the full line. Make sure that you add the correct antifreeze as it is different for the 2013s. I think that they call it Hoat. I would purchase it from your Dealer to make sure that it is the correct antifreeze for the 2013s.
Warm your engine up to normal operating temp, "mine sets right on the middle mark of the gage when warmed up" and then turn on your heater. That will help to bleed out the air in the system.
Make sure that you don't have any leaks.
I did not have that issue with mine. It is about a 1/2 inch below the full mark on the bottle when cold and expands up to the full mark when hot.
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Old 03-17-2013, 03:24 PM   #6
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Thanks. Will do.
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Old 03-17-2013, 06:50 PM   #7
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If the coolant isn't pre-diluted, make sure you mix it 50/50 with distilled water.
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Old 03-17-2013, 06:58 PM   #8
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If you live in a warm climate you can just use plain distilled water, assuming you're only filling the resovoir and not the entire system.
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Old 03-17-2013, 07:18 PM   #9
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It's new and under warranty. Burp out the air and then take it to the dealer for a top up at no charge.
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Old 03-18-2013, 10:58 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by SilverSport View Post
If the coolant isn't pre-diluted, make sure you mix it 50/50 with distilled water.
NO! DO NOT DILLUTE this stuff! I've had my Liberty for the last ten years and have been dealing with the HOAT (Hybrid Organic Acid Technology). The coolant in the JK as far as I have learned is OAT without the "H". NEVER mix this stuff with ANY other coolant or you will cause serious corrosion and erosion of your coolant system. The ONLY NON-OEM that I know of is the Zerex G-05 coolant that can be used with this system. NEVER use GM Dex-Cool, GM has seen class-action lawsuits over this stuff! NEVER use any "one size fits all" or generic "universal" coolant! Even though it is designed to last 100,000 miles, many of us Liberty owners have had to have radiator or coolant system flushes or fluid replacement for various reasons. YOU MUST specify to ANY auto mechanic other than a factory certified mechanic or car dealer that this coolant MUST be used or you will suffer through a LOT of expensive cooling system maladies. This coolant has been discussed ad-nauseum over at L.O.S.T. forums. Please trust me on this one!
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Old 03-18-2013, 11:09 AM   #11
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OAT, known as HOAT (or G-05). One of the primary problems with OAT formulations is that they are not compatible with conventional antifreezes. The chemicals used in OAT antifreeze react to some extent with some of the inorganic salts and other components in conventional antifreeze. The result of this interaction is the generation of cloudiness and precipitates. HOAT formulations are called hybrid because the additive package contains ingredients from both OAT and conventional formulas and is compatible with both.
Hybrid OAT antifreezes provide both fast acting and extended life corrosion protection, eliminate the problem of anti- freeze compatibility, and therefore are compatible with all types and colors of antifreeze.Unfortunately, many automotive professionals consider all extended life antifreeze to be “Dexcool” and associate all the problems related to “Dexcool” with both OAT and HOAT formulas. The result of this misconception is often replacing the extended life coolant with conventional green. Industry experts say that this can be done safely if all of the green antifreeze is removed from the system. However, auto manufacturers recommend specific formulations and replacing the factory fill coolant with a different type that doesn’t meet the manufacturer’s specifications could cause liability issues down the road. A much safer solution is to replace OAT systems with HOAT coolant which meets OAT specifications.



Copied from http://www.recycool.net/index.php?op...=14:antifreeze
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Old 03-18-2013, 01:27 PM   #12
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I need to take mine into the dealer to get burped....mostly because want them to do it and not charge me for more fluid if necessary. Plus I have a stripped door bolt that they need to fix.
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Old 03-18-2013, 04:49 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by Scott2373 View Post
The coolant in the JK as far as I have learned is OAT without the "H".
The coolant on the 2012s and back is HOAT. The 2013s take OAT, or so I've read.

From my 2012 manual

• Mixing of engine coolant (antifreeze) other than the specified HOAT engine coolant (antifreeze) may result in engine damage and may decrease
corrosion protection. If a non-HOAT engine coolant (antifreeze) is introduced into the cooling system in an emergency, it should be replaced with the specified engine coolant (antifreeze) as soon as possible.
• Do not use water alone or alcohol-based engine coolant (antifreeze) products. Do not use additional rust inhibitors or antirust products, as they
may not be compatible with the antifreeze/engine coolant (antifreeze) and may plug the radiator.
• This vehicle has not been designed for use with Propylene Glycol based engine coolant (antifreeze). Use of Propylene Glycol base engine coolant
(antifreeze) is not recommended.
• The manufacturer recommends using MOPAR Antifreeze/Coolant 5 Year/100,000 Mile Formula HOAT (Hybrid Organic Additive Technology) or
equivalent.
• Mix a minimum solution of 50% HOAT engine coolant and distilled water. Use higher concentrations (not to exceed 70%) if temperatures below 34°F (37°C) are anticipated.
• Use only high purity water such as distilled or deionized water when mixing the water/engine coolant (antifreeze) solution. The use of lower quality water will reduce the amount of corrosion protection in the
engine cooling system.

From the 2013 manual

• Mixing of engine coolant (antifreeze) other than specified Organic Additive Technology (OAT) engine coolant (antifreeze), may result in engine
damage and may decrease corrosion protection. Organic Additive Technology (OAT) engine coolant is different and should not be mixed with
Hybrid Organic Additive Technology (HOAT) engine coolant (antifreeze). If a non-OAT engine coolant (antifreeze) is introduced into the cooling
system in an emergency, it should be replaced with the specified engine coolant (antifreeze) as soon as possible.
• The manufacturer recommends using MOPAR Antifreeze/Coolant 10 Year/150,000 Mile Formula OAT (Organic Additive Technology) or equivalent.
• Mix a minimum solution of 50% OAT engine coolant and distilled water. Use higher concentrations (not to exceed 70%) if temperatures below −34° F (−37° C) are anticipated.
• Use only high purity water such as distilled or deionized water when mixing the water/engine coolant (antifreeze) solution. The use of lower quality water will reduce the amount of corrosion protection in the
engine cooling system.
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Old 03-18-2013, 04:52 PM   #14
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Napa

Quote:
Originally Posted by Utahpete View Post
Mine was down a lot after I burped the system to get rid of the water noise in the dash, but wasn't empty.
I had to buy the special coolant from the Jeep dealer, don't faint when you see the price.
Take it back to the dealer and have it checked out
Pete
Mine was also low after I burped my system. I bought the Chrysler spec. antifreeze from NAPA for $9.99.
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Old 03-18-2013, 05:52 PM   #15
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OK, I got that. My 2013 uses a new kind of coolant. Don't mix them, but you shouldn't be losing coolant on a new vehicle, anyhow. And what's all this "burping" business. Burping is for babies.
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Old 03-18-2013, 06:45 PM   #16
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772 miles, coolant solid 1/2 between min and max...
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Old 03-18-2013, 08:08 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Reece View Post
OK, I got that. My 2013 uses a new kind of coolant. Don't mix them, but you shouldn't be losing coolant on a new vehicle, anyhow. And what's all this "burping" business. Burping is for babies.
My Jeep is my baby.

Some members have found air in the cooling systems. Seems more prevalent on the 12s and 13s. So a burp releases the trapped air.
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Old 03-19-2013, 08:57 AM   #18
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How would you know if you had an air bubble in your cooling system?
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Old 03-19-2013, 10:03 AM   #19
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My coolant spills out of the overflow all the time wheeling, it's getting a little low because of it. Do you climb lots of big hills?
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Old 03-19-2013, 10:55 AM   #20
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How would you know if you had an air bubble in your cooling system?
I was able to hear a water rushing sound behind the dashboard, sometimes it sounded more like trickling water, during acceleration and sometimes when idling.

I burped it by letting pressure off the radiator cap when the system was cool after I had run the engine up to operating temp. Rinse. Repeat. It took 3 times with this method for me to burp my cooling system.
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Old 03-19-2013, 11:24 AM   #21
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After the "burp" did you have to add collant to bring the level up?
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Old 03-19-2013, 11:39 AM   #22
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After the "burp" did you have to add collant to bring the level up?
Yes I had to add between half a quart and a quart to the system. Since the overall system is 10.5 quarts and the owner's manual allows up to 70% coolant in the system I opted not to mix my coolant. I calculate that my coolant:water ratio is at a safe 55%.

If you have a 2012 ensure that you buy HOAT coolant
If you have a 2013 ensure that you buy OAT coolant

Beware that many auto parts stores do not carry these types of coolant, so call ahead and/or check online. I was able to find a Chrysler approved HOAT coolant at Napa for $9.99 which beats MOPARs coolant price of ~$30.
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Old 05-19-2013, 07:07 PM   #23
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This may be stupid, prob is but to burp the system on a cold engine do you remove the cap then start and bring the eng to temp? Second is any coolant fluid going to pour out or spit up all over?
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Old 05-19-2013, 07:56 PM   #24
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I took the cap off when cold, started the engine, brought it up to temp and took a baster and relocated the coolant to the reservoir. The coolant will overflow from the radiator if you don't. Squeezed the hoses while doing this and got some bubbles/air out. Fixed my dash sound this way.
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Old 05-19-2013, 08:08 PM   #25
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I took the cap off when cold, started the engine, brought it up to temp and took a baster and relocated the coolant to the reservoir. The coolant will overflow from the radiator if you don't. Squeezed the hoses while doing this and got some bubbles/air out. Fixed my dash sound this way.
Well done!
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Old 05-26-2013, 10:40 PM   #26
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Ill have to grab a baster. The water sound is very annoying. I removed the radiator cap and there was a ton of air, bubbles without even starting the engine. I didnt turn the jeep on figured ill grab the baster first. Thanks for the help.
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Old 05-26-2013, 11:42 PM   #27
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Man, Jeep can't make things easy or cheap these days. Too bad I cant just run to NAPA and get some anti-freeze. Plus they seem to switch stuff up all the time. 2013 uses different coolant than 2012 and earlier? 2014 may use a different oil filter than 13's? This kind of stuff drives me nuts.
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Old 05-27-2013, 06:42 AM   #28
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Man, Jeep can't make things easy or cheap these days. Too bad I cant just run to NAPA and get some anti-freeze. Plus they seem to switch stuff up all the time. 2013 uses different coolant than 2012 and earlier? 2014 may use a different oil filter than 13's? This kind of stuff drives me nuts.
That is the truth. One good thing about some of these new special coolants is that they really work. I have another vehicle that uses the blue coolant that originated in Germany. I changed it at 100K and the used coolant was as clean and clear as the new stuff in the jug. Since most modern engines are aluminum block and head I guess they had to find other solutions. The old green coolant was designed for cast iron.
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Old 05-27-2013, 08:37 AM   #29
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That is the truth. One good thing about some of these new special coolants is that they really work. I have another vehicle that uses the blue coolant that originated in Germany. I changed it at 100K and the used coolant was as clean and clear as the new stuff in the jug. Since most modern engines are aluminum block and head I guess they had to find other solutions. The old green coolant was designed for cast iron.
That's good!
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Old 05-27-2013, 08:51 AM   #30
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I paid 52 for a gallon from my local dealer... just make sure u get purple for the 13 and pink for the 12s

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