Automatic Lockers in Front Axle: Driving Characteristics - Page 2 - Jeep Wrangler Forum
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Old 07-09-2013, 10:35 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by tom h View Post

Can you explain a little more simply to me why having a locked Aussie up front makes steering harder? Sure, power is now distributed 50:50 rather than 60:40 under the conditions of the moment but why is harder to get up the twisty, slippery road? Why is harder to make a 12-point turn? Thx
I was referring to tight trails to where you have limited room to turn around. But an auto locker will lock up when power is being put to it so turning is not as easy as when you don't have it in 4x4. I don't know about the Aussie or lunch boxes in general, but most of the autos I have been around are slow to let loose. That's why I made to post about the fact that I missed the lunch box part in the OP. Two different animals

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Old 07-09-2013, 10:47 PM   #32
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I'm still not following why you want to do the front first.

Regarding lunchbox lockers, they are cheap for a reason, they tend to break and don't work that well to begin with. You get what you pay for. Don't waste your money.
to date I have to respectfully disagree with your statement. although my experience is only with the Aussie. It works exactly as it should. I do believe you get what you pay for, and for the money it's a very worthwhile mod. My only complaint is the clicking on turns but I've gotten used to it. I run selectable in the rear and would prefer one in front but was not willing to pay for one to go in the"dirty thirty". My experience might be scewed because I have ram steering that makes turning locked a non issue.

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Old 07-10-2013, 08:44 AM   #33
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Funny the Detroit I ran in my K5 was horrible on tight trails. It was all ways staying locked when tuning. I have also seen his happen several times on other rigs with auto lockers in the front. I will never run an auto in the front again. And If I was going to only run one selectable it would be in the front with an auto or spool in the rear. I leave the rear locked most of the time anyways.

That is my "REAL WORLD" experience. But since my opinion does not match yours I guess I must be making it up.
Pardon me. I'm not trying to discount your personal experience, but let me state a couple of facts that may be applicable. In your Blazer, you may have had the older version of the Detroit Locker and if so, I agree with you. 20 years ago, I had the old version of Detroit Locker in my front and rear Currie Ford 9 Inch diffs on an '89 YJ. That front locker behaved exactly as you stated. The newer versions of the Detroit now named "softlocker" are an entirely different animal and perform great in terms of driveability.

As for lunchbox lockers, I like them, but the weak link then becomes the stock carrier. A full Detroit is as simple and strong as it gets. If you add a front locker and upgrade your shafts, then the weak link becomes your U-Joints. I would much rather break a U-joint because they are cheap and easy to fix.
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Old 07-11-2013, 01:13 AM   #34
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Originally Posted by jagerhelix View Post
to date I have to respectfully disagree with your statement. although my experience is only with the Aussie. It works exactly as it should. I do believe you get what you pay for, and for the money it's a very worthwhile mod. My only complaint is the clicking on turns but I've gotten used to it. I run selectable in the rear and would prefer one in front but was not willing to pay for one to go in the"dirty thirty". My experience might be scewed because I have ram steering that makes turning locked a non issue.
I guess that makes some sense. If you're going to lock a D30, might as well keep it cheap. If you go with an ARB, you're far exceeding the value of the whole assembly.

What are you running in the rear?
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Old 07-11-2013, 02:05 AM   #35
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I run an arb in the rear
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Old 07-11-2013, 09:37 PM   #36
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The Forged 2012 JKU has an Aussie in the front and factory limited slip in the rear. Personally, I always recommend locking the front before the rear in situations like this. If you're paying for a rehear and locking it at the same time, by all means- go selectable front and rear... but if you're only locking one end, lock the front. It'll help you to pull up and over the obstacles versus the rear simply pushing you against whatever is holding you up.

The Aussie WILL release when in 4x4, but it WILL be pretty loud. Further, if you get "steel balls syndrome" and start following rigs on 40s and 44s everywhere, it's almost guaranteed you're going to break something, more than likely an axle shaft, trying to keep up. As long as you can keep a level head (what fun is that, though?) you'll be in great shape with the Aussie. My personal preference is to pop it back down to 4x2 when not on an obstacle so I don't have to hear the popping every time I turn. With the Riddler diff cover I literally can't here any clicking from the locker at all while driving on the streets.

We sell and install a bunch of Aussies on the JKs because they're the only automatic "lunchbox" locker, not requiring a gear reset. They're great for the average mechanic (we recommend purchasing a decent set of feeler gauges and a dial caliper so you can be confident it's all set up properly) and incredibly functional.

Further, Aussie carries a no-tire-limit warranty, so even if you're running 37s and the locker breaks, they'll repair or replace it for you as long as it was installed properly.

We urge customers to install Spicer 760x joints while you have the axle disassembled for the Aussie install. It's the perfect time to replace the worn out factory U-joints and even better to upgrade while you're in there. We keep them all in stock; if you'd be interested, feel free to hit us up and we can set you up with a package deal on the Aussie, 760X joints, and maybe even a LubeLocker to help keep the installation as clean as possible.
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Old 08-04-2013, 02:58 PM   #37
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An update to this thread: I installed the Aussie locker in the front of my '13 JKU two weeks ago, and that went reasonable smoothly, excepting a broken spindle bolt, due to a faulty torque wrench. I will say it was a little disconcerting, initially, ripping into the carrier and pulling out the gears, but I got over it. Until today, I had only driven the vehicle on the street, and found the locker to be pretty unobtrusive: just the occasional clicking on very sharp turns at low speed. I finally got a chance to take it off-road today, and the results were amazing. Hills that I had to charge up before (to maintain momentum) I now could crawl up. Surfaces on which I slipped before under power I just walked up. I was concerned, initially, about difficulty steering, but on dirt, sand, and rocks, I had no issues, even on very narrow trails with sharp bends and limited clearance. So in summary, an absolutely worthwhile mod!
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Old 08-04-2013, 03:16 PM   #38
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Glad you took the plunge and installed one instead of listening to all the nay-saying and garbage.
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Old 08-04-2013, 08:32 PM   #39
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An update to this thread: I installed the Aussie locker in the front of my '13 JKU two weeks ago, and that went reasonable smoothly, excepting a broken spindle bolt, due to a faulty torque wrench. I will say it was a little disconcerting, initially, ripping into the carrier and pulling out the gears, but I got over it. Until today, I had only driven the vehicle on the street, and found the locker to be pretty unobtrusive: just the occasional clicking on very sharp turns at low speed. I finally got a chance to take it off-road today, and the results were amazing. Hills that I had to charge up before (to maintain momentum) I now could crawl up. Surfaces on which I slipped before under power I just walked up. I was concerned, initially, about difficulty steering, but on dirt, sand, and rocks, I had no issues, even on very narrow trails with sharp bends and limited clearance. So in summary, an absolutely worthwhile mod!
So much for the previous garbage being spewed forth. Now the truth just set you free. Nothing like a little real world experience...

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