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Old 06-20-2011, 08:30 PM   #1
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Auxiliary Electrical Hookup

I wanted to add some auxiliary electrical circuits to my '08 Wrangler:
1. to turn my winch on/off (when the key is turned on and a switch is flipped)
2. to turn on my HIDs (when at least the parking lights are on and a switch is flipped)
3. to turn on my Rock Lights (same has HIDs)
4. I wanted the switch indicators to be lit like my stock switches
5. I wanted something on the switch to indicate the switch was on
6. I wanted a fuse box that could hold relays and fuses
7. I wanted to use automotive grade materials where possible
8. I wanted to be able to modify the connections to my fuse box “easily” in the future (I’ll have additional circuits to wire)
9. I wanted to mount the relay/fuse box near the existing fuse box and battery.
Here’s a short summary of what I did.
Disclaimer: I know it’s not the most cost effective solution (note: a “cost effective” solution was not in my list), and there are better/worse/other ways to do it.
First, I looked for switches. It took a bit of hunting, but I found these Carling Contura II Rocker Switches (Model V1D2GHNB-AAC00-000) that are automotive grade, sealed, have a green LED backlight that can be wired to come on when the lights are turned on, and a red LED that can be wired to come on when the switch is turned on:

Now that I had the switches figured out I could come up with a wiring diagram. I decided to get a 4 switch setup (only using 3 switches right now) and figured it was best to protect the main power with a fuse because the winch wire would go through a relay instead of a direct connect:

Next I had to find that relay/fuse box I wanted. I finally found a Bussmann RTMR Panel (Model 15303-5-2-4) that can hold 5 relays and 10 fuses. Here’s a shot of the panel along with some of the terminals use to wire it up:

The winch is supposed to draw 416 amps at max, so I wanted to use a 500 amp relay for it:

I didn’t want to use the cheap wire you find in the stores, but wanted good automotive grade wire. I got TXL wire, and got a lot of different colors, which is not the cheap way of hooking things up, but certainly makes it clear how things are supposed to be connected:

I had a hard time finding the legend stickers for the switches. I eventually had to order some from the UK. I knew before I purchased them that they would look good (with some mods) at night, and OK during the day. I could have purchased ones that looked good in the day and OK (but reversed) at night, but went with these:

I (test) mounted the Bussmann Panel between the battery and stock fuse box:

Instead of soldering the wires to the switches, I made standard connectors and plugged them into the back of the switches that I mounted on a Daystar Panel:

All wires were crimped and soldered (Termals: Packard 630):

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Old 06-20-2011, 08:31 PM   #2
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I wanted to wire the RTMR Panel so it could be removed and re-installed fairly easily as I haven't decided all of the circuits I will house in it, so I have all wires in connectors. Here's the wiring diagram:

I wired up the Bussmann Panel. The wires were all crimped, soldered, and came with a sealing gasket (Terminals: Metri-Pak 280):

A view of the bottom with all wiring completed:

The relays are Song Chuan 301-1A-C-R1 (ISO 280, 35A, sealed). All wires were run to a standard, sealed, automotive grade connectors that were color coded, and wires were placed in looms:

The Bussmann Panel mounted in the Jeep with the connectors ready to be hooked up:

All grounds were made to existing ground lugs found on the Jeep:

Everything hooked up:

I wanted to stop any light leaks from the LEDs in the switch, so I globed some Grip Guard around the edge of the legends. I didn’t do a really neat job, but it looks a lot worse in the picture that it does in person:

Here’s how they look at night with the Rock Lights on:

I purchased a 500+ amp ANL fuse holder to hold the 250 amp fuse, and mounted it just behind the battery:

I have a lot more pictures and info if interested.

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AEV Pintlers, BFG KM2s 35x12.50x17, Bulldog Fab Rear Stubby Bump, Currie F/R Adj Trac Bars, Daystar Upper Dash, FireStik FireFly Antenna, Kilby Rear Shock Skids, LoD Sig Stubby Front Bump, Midland 75-822 CB, Mopar Filler Door & Locking Gas Cap, Rancho LCA Skid, Rancho Oil Pan Armor, Riddler Diff Covers, TeraFlex 2.5" Spring Lift, Warn PowerPlant HD, Woods Evap Can Relo, Woods SS Relo, Yukon 5.38s
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Old 06-20-2011, 08:36 PM   #3
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Most excellent write up!

That's a fair bit more than I'm willing to tackle myself, but can definitely appreciate a good job.

Also, for the Carling switches you used, you could have went to OTRATTW - Great products and excellent customer service.
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Old 06-20-2011, 08:43 PM   #4
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I can only imagine all kinds of bad things happening if I attempted that, nicely done.
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Old 06-20-2011, 08:45 PM   #5
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AzTJ - Thanks. I did call OTRATTW when I was looking for the switches and legends, but they didn't have what I wanted. Maybe they stock them now?

Themoneypit - thanks. I planed it out and since it’s not my DD I could take my time working on it
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Old 06-20-2011, 10:29 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joe002 View Post
AzTJ - Thanks. I did call OTRATTW when I was looking for the switches and legends, but they didn't have what I wanted. Maybe they stock them now?
Possibly, I don't know... all I know is they have great customer service...

And I had enough issues trying to wire up two switches!
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Old 06-22-2011, 10:15 PM   #7
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What relay and where did you locate it for the accessory relay just off of the cigarette lighter? Is it one of the relays in the bussman panel?
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Old 06-22-2011, 10:33 PM   #8
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I have a 12,000 lb winch and it is fused at 150 amps via automatic breaker. 400 amps seems quite high.
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Old 06-22-2011, 10:37 PM   #9
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Looking at the manual though it shows 320 amps at full pull capability. I'm guessing that the over-current protection is thermal and takes some time to trip. By that time the current draw would be less.
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Old 06-22-2011, 11:06 PM   #10
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Goodness man that is spectacular.

I wonder if us non-rubicon owners could somehow make use of the "blanks" on the stock switch panel? Only two spots, but another single switch or two could appear elsewhere.

Do you happen to recall the general cost of a set up like that?
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Old 06-23-2011, 12:03 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jk'n View Post
What relay and where did you locate it for the accessory relay just off of the cigarette lighter? Is it one of the relays in the bussman panel?
Yes. It’s one of the Song Chuan relays.

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Originally Posted by jk'n View Post
I have a 12,000 lb winch and it is fused at 150 amps via automatic breaker. 400 amps seems quite high.
Quote:
Originally Posted by jk'n View Post
Looking at the manual though it shows 320 amps at full pull capability. I'm guessing that the over-current protection is thermal and takes some time to trip. By that time the current draw would be less.
OK, now we’re getting to some interesting stuff. How to size the “extras” for the winch? I have a PowerPlant HD. It supposedly can run up to 416 Amps at max load so I got a 500 Amp continuous/700 Amp peak relay - plenty of room for safety. So why did I only use a 250 Amp ANL fuse? Seems a bit low. Well, I found the datasheet for the fuses here: http://www.cooperindustries.com/cont...S_2024_ANL.pdf. Looking at the datasheet you can see that a 250 amp fuse is good for over 400 amps for at least 100 seconds, and based on the graph it appears to flatten out there for a while. Just in case there are any issues I did purchase a backup 250, 300 and 400 fuses. Also note that the fuse holder is rated for more than 500 amps.

After I hooked everything up I did measure the draw from the winch, and under no load the draw was about 100 amps. I also noticed that it could spike up to 200 amps when first turning it on.

I’ve used the air compressor (which runs the winch like it’s under no load) many many times with no issues at all, and recovered one vehicle pulling it up a hill, again no issues.

If your winch doesn’t draw more than 320 amps then you could get away with a smaller winch relay, fuse and fuse holder.



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Goodness man that is spectacular.
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Originally Posted by MTH View Post

I wonder if us non-rubicon owners could somehow make use of the "blanks" on the stock switch panel? Only two spots, but another single switch or two could appear elsewhere.

Do you happen to recall the general cost of a set up like that?
Yes you could get away with using the two blanks, but be sure you have plans for other switch that you may need in the future. You’ll be doing a lot of wiring, and adding an extra switch on the initial install won’t be a big deal, but adding and wiring for a new switch later will be a bit more painful.

The Daystar Switch Panel is not the best in the world - and with a manual transmission I hear it really doesn’t work as shifting can cause you to accidently switch some things on, but it works OK for an automatic.

In my setup you can see four switches where three of them look to be active. Actually, I only have the first two in service - I still haven’t found rock lights that I like. What I did was run the wires from the switches to the panel under the hood and left some of the wires coiled up waiting for me to find good rock lights and decide what I want to do with the other switch. What you could do is use the Rubicon spaces, but run enough wires for a couple more switch just in case you decide later you need them.

Cost, oh yeah, I hate looking the cost of my additions to the Jeep. Many of the parts I got were only available at one location (more sources now), so I couldn’t get a break on pricing, plus I spent a lot on the engine compartment automotive grade TXL wires, and specialized crimping tools. According to my rough notes, I spent upwards of $300 for everything including supplies and tools.
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Old 05-15-2012, 10:21 AM   #12
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Great write-up very helpful
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Old 05-15-2012, 10:54 AM   #13
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Outstanding.... I do not have the time or patience nor the smarts to do all that, however I did just install an sPOD and for me that is all I needed.

Love the write up.
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Old 05-15-2012, 11:42 AM   #14
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Excellent work. That looks very clean and well done. Nothing beats a custom solution to meet your needs just right!
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Old 05-17-2012, 09:24 PM   #15
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Thanks. It was a lot more work then the pre-fab kits you can purchase, but yeah, I did (do) get to customize it to my personal current/future needs.
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Old 05-17-2012, 09:50 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FlorezBethel View Post
I'm guessing that the over-current protection is thermal and takes some time to trip...
All of the circuits expect the winch/main use normal automotive fuses - fast blow.

Here's the link to the ANL fuse: http://www.cooperindustries.com/cont...S_2024_ANL.pdf

My winch can draw a maximum of 416 amps which should not blow the fuse. Six hundred amps should blow in a couple of seconds.
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Old 05-19-2012, 06:14 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joe002
Thanks. It was a lot more work then the pre-fab kits you can purchase, but yeah, I did (do) get to customize it to my personal current/future needs.
Can I ask how much the switch set up ran you? Trying to see if I should attempt it or just buy prefab.
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Old 05-19-2012, 09:20 PM   #18
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Can I ask how much the switch set up ran you? Trying to see if I should attempt it or just buy prefab.
I would think the pre-fab guys should be able to come in with a better price because with many of the components I had to by a minimum quantity, so I have a lot of left over parts. I also purchased the crimping tools for this job and the pre-fab guys could spread the cost over many orders.
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Old 02-20-2014, 09:48 PM   #19
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I wanted to update this thread with new switch covers that I got. I got these from OTRATTW (I had file them a little on the sides to fit, but it worked out well. They look cleaner than the old switches with stickers):




Here's a picture at night:

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