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Ball joints, not sure what to go with

7K views 35 replies 13 participants last post by  fiend 
#1 ·
Sooooo, put my new tires on 2 weeks ago, found out the old ones were worn extra 2/32's on the outsides, figured I needed an alignment and had knocked my toe out. Took it to what is supposed to be the best shop in town, and find out they can't align it because the ball joints and drag link joints are toast. Trying to decide what to go with and hoping I can get some advice.

From a budget standpoint I'd be hoping to stay around the range of the Synergy. I'm not sure how long they will last? I just remember a few years ago everyone was recommending them left & right. I know there are now the Dynatrac and Rare Parts options but those are a bit out of the price range I was hoping to stay in. A local 4x4 shop was suggesting Moog because of a lifetime warranty and saying they use them in a lot of builds. I haven't seen too much about those though and I see Quadratec and Northridge don't carry them at all (not sure if that's a good or bad sign). The alignment shop was recommending Napa premium with the lifetime warranty.

If it helps with the recommendation, I'm running a 2.5" metalcloak lift with OME shocks, 285/75r17 (34's) now, and D30 with 3.73's. Typical usage is 95% DD and 5 (like one weekend a month in good weather) mild-moderate trail runs. However our roads around town aren't in the best shape....lots of rough spots...and the trail runs tend to have some good washboard in parts. I think those two things contributed to the stock joints going out after 5 years 45K miles.

Actually they had to be going before that if they're playing into the tire wear, i.e. it's not just toe causing it. I say this because all 5 tires had similar wear and I'm about 2K into my latest rotation when I got the new tires and rotate every 4K.
 
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#3 ·
Oh? Is it a new design? I was finding some threads from a year or less ago about that they have a hex key thing covering the grease port and it was rusting up and stripping out or something.
 
#5 ·
Ok thanks. So you think the Teraflex are better than the Synergy ones? I see Quadratec sells a Teraflex part called a preload tool for them but I can't find anything about how to use it other than install instructions on TF's site saying the lowers can be adjusted in some way. There's nothing about how/why/etc. though. Know anything about that?
 
#6 ·
Also, the apparently high probability of having to remove material from my stub shaft to get clearance as per TF's install instructions for "some 2012" and all 2013+ has me really nervous. I only have an angle grinder to do any grinding and that doesn't seem like the best route to go on a part like that.
 
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#7 ·
if money is not an issue the rare parts ones look like they are really nice.
 
#10 ·
Yeah money is definitely an issue. If I'd known ahead of time that these parts were shot I probably would have ended up with the Falken P285/70 tires to save $500 and have some money for this problem. Too late now though, can't return the RG's for anything but store credit. :banghead::banghead::banghead:

Its really not a issue. Only a small amount of material is removed on the corners.


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So something that could be done with an angle grinder or?
 
#11 ·
I put Synergy in 2 years ago and all is well. I was also looking at Teraflex (my shop also quoted Moog but I decided to do the work myself) but couldn't find a single review. Had the money tree in my backyard been in full bloom I would have gone Rare Parts but I have no complaints with Synergy.


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#12 ·
Thanks. The shop that recommended Moog also can do the synergy they were just trying to compare apples to apples with the alignment shops quote using Napa parts with lifetime warranty which I guess Moog has as well and synergy is twelve months


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#13 ·
Im not sure there is much difference in all of those in that price range. I have a friend that wasn't necessarily happy with Synergy. Can't remember the reason. I actually went with Alloy USA(they were on sale)

So far so good, but the thing I don't like is the needle grease zerk on the bottom is really really hard to get grease in. I will actually have to pull the axle shafts to grease them the next time I do it.
 
#15 ·
Product Wheel Auto part Automotive wheel system Tire


^^^Whenever mine wear out, then I am going with these. Dynatrac Pro-Steers. They are one of the best..IMO
 
#16 ·
Anyone read anything about Rare Part's OE style joints? Found them online at one of the chain auto stores alongside the newer more expensive design. Looks like the bottom is a sealed unit and about $140 a pop, the upper is greasable and about $60 a pop. Thinking for that price it makes more sense to just go all the way with the new design since it's already almost $400 just for the "cheaper" OE design.
 
#20 ·
I have to keep in mind that I need to replace the drag link as well (track bar is fine as far as I know) when pricing stuff out right now. Depending on whether I think I can tackle the ball joints myself or not, I think right now I'm looking at two routes if I do it myself.

Rare Parts the new design joints and an OEM style drag link then replacing the drag link and trackbar next year after the Jeep is finally paid off and I have more money and probably putting in the Yeti stuff. Or, go with Spicer/etc. joints right now and the two Yeti items right now.

Option two puts me about at the estimate from the shops for parts and labor but I'm doing it all myself. Option one puts me about 200 under their estimate and I might never have to replace the ball joints again based on my uses and what I've been reading about their test vehicles.

Or I can just have a local shop put the Spicer/Napa/etc. type joints in, factory style drag link, and get C gussets welded in while the joints are out. If I do everything myself, the gussets aren't going to happen and it makes sense to have those done while the joints are out rather than trying to be careful and keep them cool or having to pull them when the gussets go on down the road.
 
#21 ·
I have to keep in mind that I need to replace the drag link as well (track bar is fine as far as I know) when pricing stuff out right now. Depending on whether I think I can tackle the ball joints myself or not, I think right now I'm looking at two routes if I do it myself.

Rare Parts the new design joints and an OEM style drag link then replacing the drag link and trackbar next year after the Jeep is finally paid off and I have more money and probably putting in the Yeti stuff. Or, go with Spicer/etc. joints right now and the two Yeti items right now.

Option two puts me about at the estimate from the shops for parts and labor but I'm doing it all myself. Option one puts me about 200 under their estimate and I might never have to replace the ball joints again based on my uses and what I've been reading about their test vehicles

Or I can just have a local shop put the Spicer/Napa/etc. type joints in, factory style drag link, and get C gussets welded in while the joints are out. If I do everything myself, the gussets aren't going to happen and it makes sense to have those done while the joints are out rather than trying to be careful and keep them cool or having to pull them when the gussets go on down the road.
How many miles on your 2012?
 
#22 ·
Just under 46k and yeah the stock drag link and ball joints are already toast. I blame our lovely CA road maintenance


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#23 ·
ball joints should be covered under your drivetrain warranty.
 
#24 ·
Which expired about 4 months ago (5 years). :(
 
#27 ·
#33 ·
I like the Dynatrac’s due to the fact that once pressed in they don’t have to be removed from the C’s to be rebuilt. I have heard mixed reviews about the rebuilding, but online videos look straightforward.
Moog may have a lifetime warranty, but not much good if you have to press in and out several times over the life of the Jeep.
At this time my stock ball joints are good as new, 36,000 miles and 10,000 of those on 35’s daily driven on crappy CA highways.
 
#34 ·
The Gold Standard: Dynatrac Pro-Steer..
 
#35 · (Edited)
Tera Flex 2018 (newer model) installed. No clearance issue on a 2012 JKU R. They measured it. I am pretty sure if I had oriented the grease fittings to face to the outside it would hit the axle joints but I faced them to the inside. ;)

Still have alignment issues (the shop checked twice and they said alignment is good, that it was the Bj) as the car pulls to the right. I forgot to ask the shop for the alignment print out before and after for both times I went.

Also, I have adjustable lower control arm and the guys , the first time, after the job was done suggested I get Ad lower control arm lol. huuuhhhhggg I wish , I wish I could just trust a local mechanic shop; it is probably more my issue i think.

The alignment was not too expensive, $80 but apparently does not include adjusting the L. C. Arms. Think he quoted $300 for adjusting them. Guess it is time I learn about their adjustment.
 
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