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Old 09-29-2011, 07:53 AM   #1
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Buying a new Jeep - Fighting Chance

For those of you looking to buying a new Jeep, I highly recommend buying an information packet from Fighting Chance New Car Buying Guide - Avoid haggling for a new car. Buy or lease a new car the smart way with our car buying guide. Get new car invoice prices for all vehicles. Buying or leasing a car? Don't do it without this car buying and leasing.
It provides you with a ton of useful information. I don't work for them, I just bought a 2011 JKU using their method.
I received offers from dealerships for 2% to 3% below invoice on factory order 2012s.
I ended up taking an offer of 7% below invoice on a 2011 without doing any negotiations.

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Old 09-29-2011, 08:02 AM   #2
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Um....hmmmm

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Old 09-29-2011, 08:06 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by usmcdevildog View Post
For those of you looking to buying a new Jeep, I highly recommend buying an information packet from Fighting Chance New Car Buying Guide - Avoid haggling for a new car. Buy or lease a new car the smart way with our car buying guide. Get new car invoice prices for all vehicles. Buying or leasing a car? Don't do it without this car buying and leasing.
It provides you with a ton of useful information. I don't work for them, I just bought a 2011 JKU using their method.
I received offers from dealerships for 2% to 3% below invoice on factory order 2012s.
I ended up taking an offer of 7% below invoice on a 2011 without doing any negotiations.
2-3% off a 2012 w/o a program like Tread Lightly?
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Old 09-29-2011, 08:27 AM   #4
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No special program. I was eligible for family and friends price (1% below invoice), but didn't have to use it.
The packet costs about $40 and comes with a ton of information about buying a car in general and specific information about the particular car you want to buy. You basically get dealerships to compete against each other for your business.
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Old 09-29-2011, 08:31 AM   #5
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Waste of money ..all the info you could ever need about invoice holdbacks and everything else is free on the internet and won't get you anything lower than the dealer will be williing to go..It will just let you know when you are getting boned or not and let you be able to negotiate better without falling for a bad deal.
Easiest way without negotiating or putting dealer against dealer will be to qualify for any of the affiliate rewards programs and get a min of 1% under invoice (many including myself got 2% just by asking) with out the crap dealer add-ons like $1000 scotch guard.
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Old 09-29-2011, 06:04 PM   #6
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To each his own.
I just thought that I would share my experience since it worked so well for me.
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Old 09-29-2011, 06:29 PM   #7
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Your claim of 7% under factory invoice with no negotiations seems dubious at best. At that level of discount you are wiping out any profit the dealer can make on the vehicle and it would have cost them money to sell you the car.

I am no business major but I suspect the dealer would not be in business long if they were to continue such a practice. I also do not imagine they would have any incentive to make such an offer in the first place, let alone without any negotiations.
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Old 09-29-2011, 08:12 PM   #8
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If the claim is 7% then it is a scam to get $40. If they claimed 1 or even 2% maybe but 7% is an outright lie for a new Wrangler.
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Old 09-29-2011, 08:26 PM   #9
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Keep in mind this was 7% off a 2011. With 2012s on the lot the dealer was more than willing to deal more on it. The best I was offered for a 2012 was 3% below invoice.

Yes, in some cases (certainly in mine) dealers are willing to sell their cars at a loss in order to meet certain sales goals.
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Old 09-29-2011, 08:31 PM   #10
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You might have gotten 7% off the factory invoice but whats your interestrate look like ? Cuz 7% off is a little steep im sure theyll wring their $ outta you somehow
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Old 09-29-2011, 08:45 PM   #11
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I financed through my credit union at 3.65%. Didn't buy any service contracts.
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Old 09-29-2011, 09:59 PM   #12
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Sounds like you got a great deal on a Jeep!
You could upload the data you got and let us see the magic formula... (along with pics of that Jeep!)
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Old 09-29-2011, 11:38 PM   #13
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Or give us your info so we can turn you in for stealing it off the lot haha
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Old 09-30-2011, 06:20 AM   #14
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For all those eligible check ou Pentagon Federal Credit Union for the lowest rates I've seen outside of 0%. Currently 1.99% for 12-72 months (I think). Their site indicates what the quals are and it's pretty!
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Old 09-30-2011, 07:08 AM   #15
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Typo
1.99 for 48
2.49 for 60
3.49 for 72
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Old 09-30-2011, 07:40 AM   #16
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When I was in the business there was always a close out allowance in October of 5-7% additional dealer cash. This would mean you could potentially buy a 2011 in October for invoice less rebate, less 3% holdback, less 5-7% close out allowance. Added up that is a HUGE percent off invoice.
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Old 10-01-2011, 07:25 PM   #17
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You should never pay holdbacks. The factories reimburse the dealers the holdback once the customer takes delivery.
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Old 01-05-2013, 04:44 PM   #18
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Fighting Chance works

I found this thread a couple months ago while doing some background research on Fighting Chance to see whether or not it worked. I came back to post my results now that I have purchased a new vehicle following this process. For the record, it is a 2012 Caddy SRX and I purchased it at the end of November 2012. I got it for $1700 under invoice before rebates. That equates to 4.2% less than the invoice price.
  • I never went into a dealer other than the one I did my test drive at
  • I never made an offer to anyone. All the dealers made their offers to me.
  • The process guarantees you will pay the lowest price that is available on that car on that date. If I followed the exact same process the next month, I could've been offered $1900 under invoice, or I may have only gotten $800 under invoice. You just never now, but again, I can rest assurred I got the best price on the car at the time I bought.
  • Ignore posters like ShaneDiddy who say things like "why would you pay for that info, everything is free on the Internet!"
  • Carefully read the info at this link: Fighting Chance New Car Buying Guide - USA TODAY Roundtable David vs. 5 Goliaths (reprint of article from USA Today) and you understand why ShaneDiddy and so many others are wrong.
All that being said, this process is a good amount of work. To do it right you have to cast a very wide net, which involves contacting 10-15 dealers (I drove 2.5 hours to get my car). You can't just email 3-4 dealers over the internet. You have to personally call and speak with the sales manager at each one so they know you're a serious buyer. You then are emailing/faxing each one, and following up with more phone calls. In my experience, you almost have to take a day off work to do this right. This process will only work if you treat a new car as a commodity, you care nothing about your local dealer, personal relationships, etc. It's a car and nothing else to you.

As the OP said, to each their own, but if you want the best price on a car at the time you are buying, this process works.
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Old 01-05-2013, 06:26 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slowrider5 View Post
I found this thread a couple months ago while doing some background research on Fighting Chance to see whether or not it worked. I came back to post my results now that I have purchased a new vehicle following this process. For the record, it is a 2012 Caddy SRX and I purchased it at the end of November 2012. I got it for $1700 under invoice before rebates. That equates to 4.2% less than the invoice price.
  • I never went into a dealer other than the one I did my test drive at
  • I never made an offer to anyone. All the dealers made their offers to me.
  • The process guarantees you will pay the lowest price that is available on that car on that date. If I followed the exact same process the next month, I could've been offered $1900 under invoice, or I may have only gotten $800 under invoice. You just never now, but again, I can rest assurred I got the best price on the car at the time I bought.
  • Ignore posters like ShaneDiddy who say things like "why would you pay for that info, everything is free on the Internet!"
  • Carefully read the info at this link: Fighting Chance New Car Buying Guide - USA TODAY Roundtable David vs. 5 Goliaths (reprint of article from USA Today) and you understand why ShaneDiddy and so many others are wrong.
All that being said, this process is a good amount of work. To do it right you have to cast a very wide net, which involves contacting 10-15 dealers (I drove 2.5 hours to get my car). You can't just email 3-4 dealers over the internet. You have to personally call and speak with the sales manager at each one so they know you're a serious buyer. You then are emailing/faxing each one, and following up with more phone calls. In my experience, you almost have to take a day off work to do this right. This process will only work if you treat a new car as a commodity, you care nothing about your local dealer, personal relationships, etc. It's a car and nothing else to you.

As the OP said, to each their own, but if you want the best price on a car at the time you are buying, this process works.
Ummmm.......being that you just signed up....welcome to Wranglefourm......with your new Caddy? This is your first post on this site? OK...

Well.....let's see...

*I emailed 7 dealers.
*I didn't step foot into the dealer until after I purchased until AFTER I had my price. (I wasted time in 2011 going to dealers, lesson learned).
*I had my price via email....I never made the offer, the dealer did. I never even bothered to haggle on that price. (I saved that fight for my trade-in).
*The price I accepted (3.7% below invoice in early October of 2012) wasn't even the lowest price I had been offered....but distance and tax with this particular dealership made up the difference.
*I was able to get 6% below invoice in December of 2011 when I was looking at 2012's....just depends on the date.

**None of the above matters when there is a trade-in involved.

Bottom line, do you own research and you can get a smoking good deal. Everything that you need to know get a Wrangler at an outstanding price can be found on this very website.
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Old 01-06-2013, 03:08 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by panthermark View Post
Ummmm.......being that you just signed up....welcome to Wranglefourm......with your new Caddy? This is your first post on this site? OK...

Well.....let's see...

*I emailed 7 dealers.
*I didn't step foot into the dealer until after I purchased until AFTER I had my price. (I wasted time in 2011 going to dealers, lesson learned).
*I had my price via email....I never made the offer, the dealer did. I never even bothered to haggle on that price. (I saved that fight for my trade-in).
*The price I accepted (3.7% below invoice in early October of 2012) wasn't even the lowest price I had been offered....but distance and tax with this particular dealership made up the difference.
*I was able to get 6% below invoice in December of 2011 when I was looking at 2012's....just depends on the date.

**None of the above matters when there is a trade-in involved.

Bottom line, do you own research and you can get a smoking good deal. Everything that you need to know get a Wrangler at an outstanding price can be found on this very website.

Sounds like you got a good deal. It also sounds like you followed a similar process, so I'm not surprised. The purpose of this thread is to confirm that this process works, and that is the best way to get the best price on a vehicle (any vehicle, regardless of manufacturer or model). As I stated before, if you Google search on the effectiveness of the Fighting Chance process, this is a top result, which is how I ended up here.

By the way, you did not clarify if your percent under invoice purchase of 6% was before any manufacturer incentives were factored in. That is how it must be compared apples-to-apples. My 4.2% under invoice was the actual sale price before any and all incentives. If I factor in all available incentives that were applied after first getting the best sale price possible, then my purchase price was 14.3% below invoice. I also had some GM Card incentives that were applied on top of this, but I have not factored that in.

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