Aftermarket reinforcement for your axle c's (where your axles connect with your wheels), which are prone to bending with heavier tires and general offroad abuse. Apparently there have even been instances of people bending their c's with stock tires on pavement.
The axle C's are the upper and lower arms going from both ends of the front axle to the front wheels where the upper and lower ball joints are. C Gussets are pieces of metal that are welded onto the upper and lower arms of the C's, reinforcing them. It's recommended to reinforce your front axle C's prior to putting on bigger, heavier tires/wheels, or you could bend your C's giving you a negative camber that I don't think can be fixed without replacing the axle. Pictured below is the driver side of my front axle, with freshly welded on C Gussets and sleeves (also recommended prior to putting on bigger, heavier tires/wheels).
__________________ Black 2009 Rubicon 2-Dr Auto | TF 3" lift and front lower CA's | JKS trackbars | 35" GY MT/R-K's | 17x9 M/T SS Classic II's | EVO Axle Sleeves and C Gussets | ARB diff covers | Skid Row evap can skid and front CA skids | Shrockworks bumpers and rock rails | Synergy Ball Joints, Tie Rod and grab handles | Warn 9.5ti | Pull-Pal | sPOD | Superchips Flashpaq | Dual Optima Yellow Tops | Cobra 29 LTD | 4' FireStick
I got ya. Thanks for the responses fellas. Do they come ready to weld in, does anything have to be removed prior to install, do they simply fit in there and you weld them up. I would imagine the dealership would frown on the welding to the axle though. I dont think the wife plans on wheeling her grocery getter.
They are bare steel, ready to weld. You need to grind the paint off the C's. You also have to properly heat up the cast pieces to do the welding and then wrap them with a welding blanket to let them cool properly. Then you want to make sure they're painted properly to stop rust.
My springs for my Rock Krawler lift were doing the same thing so we plasma cut the gusset and beat that tab down and welded the tab... but they still just barely hit the spring forcing the driver spring forward and now it makes contact with the end of my sway bar when i hit bumps. Just called Artec and they said to send a pic.. probably just take it all apart and do some grinding on the gusset.
2012 JKU True Blue Oscar Mike
Rock Krawler 3.5 X-Factor
Black Rock Viper 35x12.5x15 MTR Kevlars
Evo Rock Skins
3.73 gears Limited Slip
3 hours of labor at 75 per hour (normally 85 but have active duty price) : 225 at hellbent performance in st louis
That's a hell of a deal. I did the full Artec Truss Front armor kit myself. Pulled the front axle, can't imagine installing this armor kit with the Axle installed. Even with it out, it was about five hours of welding. You have to go slow. If you rush this, you will have wings for a front axle. Plug the E-locker, don't want to melt that, and then there's the ball joints, I have the Omni brand but at least they are metal compared to the stockers which are a plastic basket.
Glad you got taken care of being a vet/active.
PS I love the Artec Front Truss and the rear is going on next.