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Old 05-26-2013, 08:35 PM   #1
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Can I fit 38s with 4" of lift and flat fenders

Hi all, im new here just made an account. I have a 12 sahara altitude. First off let me say this will be a street jeep, no crazy crawling or anything. That being said im putting a 4" zone kit on it with xenon flat fenders I ordered 37x12.50 trail grapplers, but for $40 more they can upgrade me to 38x13.50 toyo mts is there anyone running 38s on 4" of lift and flat fenders? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

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Old 05-26-2013, 08:37 PM   #2
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Why do you want 37 or 38s if its a street jeep? It will fit though.

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Old 05-26-2013, 08:41 PM   #3
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I have always had jacked up trucks, now I finally got a jeep, I guess I just really like the looks of it. plus its kinda nice to have when you need it out on level b roads and around the farm.
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Old 05-26-2013, 08:58 PM   #4
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Short answer...yes.
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Old 05-26-2013, 08:59 PM   #5
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Might as well take it off road but with the flat fenders you should be ok, even more so if just street..

Edit: also remember that things start needing to be beefed up after anything <3" lift
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Old 05-26-2013, 09:00 PM   #6
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Thanks for the input guys, Ill post some pics when I get it done
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Old 05-26-2013, 09:07 PM   #7
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If im not out wheelin in it or beating it will I still need to beef stuff up?
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Old 05-26-2013, 09:26 PM   #8
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Bare minimum I would suggest is to reinforce the front axle with c gussets and sleeves/truss. That's a lot of tire.There's a lot more that would be recommended but if your goal is to get 38s on to roll around the street you might get away with just that.
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Old 05-26-2013, 09:33 PM   #9
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what else would you reccomend without getting to expensive, I want to be that happy medium it doesnt have to be bulletproof but I want it to be dependable
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Old 05-26-2013, 09:38 PM   #10
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Short answer do 37s cause it is easier can be done with 4.5bs wheels, fits rear wheel well with plastic in, upfront tires won't hit grill or frame when turning. I have 4" with 37" mtr's ( see sig.) and everything just fits. Unless you want to do lots of chopping then go 37's. if you want to cut why not go 40"s? LOL
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Old 05-26-2013, 09:47 PM   #11
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If ur Gunna roll around the streets why don't u get a car? Jeeps belong off blacktop.
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Old 05-26-2013, 09:49 PM   #12
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I have a car too lol too many projects!!
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Old 05-26-2013, 10:32 PM   #13
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Lol
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Old 05-26-2013, 10:33 PM   #14
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anyone have any pics of a jeep with 4" of lift and 38s?
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Old 05-26-2013, 10:35 PM   #15
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Ive seen 3.5in and 40s. He had to do a ton of cutting.
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Old 05-26-2013, 11:03 PM   #16
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My Jk has a 4" lift and 37 Trail Grapplers.
I also have 4" rear and 2" front bumpstops and no rubbing when stuffed.Not to mention I had to add more washers on the steer stops or else you will rub the sway bar link if you have a Currie anti rock, it might not be a problem if you have a JKS type disco.Also a bit more trimming on the pinch welds.
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Old 05-26-2013, 11:07 PM   #17
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I appreciate all the advice!! maybe I should run a 1" bl too? I just love the look of the toyos!!
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Old 05-26-2013, 11:09 PM   #18
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C's and tubes are the weakest points of the D30 front axle. As other ppl have said, it can spin those but they aren't little. Idk how you drive, but I hit speed bumps and train tracks like its a rental car. Personally I'd need to add the C gussets and truss when I finally lift it with bigger tires. It's $160 in parts and that's it if you can weld. Otherwise you have to pay someone to weld it on for you
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Old 05-26-2013, 11:14 PM   #19
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Thank you for the help I will definitely get those welded in for insurance
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Old 05-27-2013, 12:28 AM   #20
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You can run 37's with just flat fenders and no lift.
If your not off roading, strengthening the axle is not a must.
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Old 05-27-2013, 08:08 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bvanfossen View Post
You can run 37's with just flat fenders and no lift.
If your not off roading, strengthening the axle is not a must.
35s you can fit like that. 37s I don't think so.
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Old 05-27-2013, 09:21 AM   #22
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Do the 38's , I just got new tires a was torn between 37/13.50 or 38/13.50

Parts of me really wanted the 38's but the reason I didn't get them is because my rig is setup up for 37's and I wheel it and the other main reason is if I ever needed a tire in a hurry there is more 37's out there then 38's
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Old 05-28-2013, 09:02 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bvanfossen View Post
You can run 37's with just flat fenders and no lift.
If your not off roading, strengthening the axle is not a must.
Lol you do it and tell me how it turned out.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jkjeeper06 View Post
C's and tubes are the weakest points of the D30 front axle. As other ppl have said, it can spin those but they aren't little. Idk how you drive, but I hit speed bumps and train tracks like its a rental car. Personally I'd need to add the C gussets and truss when I finally lift it with bigger tires. It's $160 in parts and that's it if you can weld. Otherwise you have to pay someone to weld it on for you
Truss it is not a bad idea, gusset c's is a must, a sleeve for tubing is a must be fore trussing it. I am sleeved and gusseted and no problems this far but I won't say that I won't have a problem.

The tubes are to thin to for even the street.


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35s you can fit like that. 37s I don't think so.
Agreed you are right. Your butter off with adjustable arms to recenter the axles in the wheel wells and to get your pinion angles correct and increase the caster. You will have vibrations that you won't like if not right away then eventually.
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Old 05-28-2013, 09:43 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bvanfossen View Post
You can run 37's with just flat fenders and no lift.
If your not off roading, strengthening the axle is not a must.
Stock 32's offroad has bent axles and broken axle tubes. Stock on the street has seen bent tubes and c's as well. No warranty in any cases. 37"s on the street with more offset of the wheels will make the axle c's bend even easier
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Old 05-28-2013, 10:04 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Asphalt Assault View Post

Truss it is not a bad idea, gusset c's is a must, a sleeve for tubing is a must be fore trussing it. I am sleeved and gusseted and no problems this far but I won't say that I won't have a problem.
Personally I don't like sleeving. Structurally, its nowhere near as strong as a truss. A truss is able to redirect the forces a whole lot better than essentially thickening the tubing. And if you're friends with someone who welds or you weld yourself you can do it for $100

The D30 is stronger than you think. The tubes and C's are actually the exact same thickness and size and a D44
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Old 05-28-2013, 02:29 PM   #26
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Personally I don't like sleeving. Structurally, its nowhere near as strong as a truss. A truss is able to redirect the forces a whole lot better than essentially thickening the tubing. And if you're friends with someone who welds or you weld yourself you can do it for $100

The D30 is stronger than you think. The tubes and C's are actually the exact same thickness and size and a D44
The house is only as strong as its foundation. That applies to the jk front axle.

Sleeving and trussing is to give strength in a different way. Sleeving gives strength to the tube it self. Trussing gives top strength in that it will resist flexing across the whole axle especially at the tube and centre section. It is important to truss but not as important as sleeving which is vulnerable area after sleeving or not sleeving. Just a truss leaves the axle tube to still cracking or denting as there is no added strength given to the wall of the tube. Tube wall is weak as it just does this.



Those who truss have already sleeved. That is why this is the most sought after modification to the wrangler front axle. Besides a pro rock housing.

Either way your welding, with a friend or not there is no bolt on truss.

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