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Old 07-30-2014, 09:22 AM   #1
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Can my Sahara Axles handle 37s

Jeepers,

I have a JKU2013 Sahara Unlimited, and I would really love to go up to 37s. I'm in the midst of deciding 35s or 37s, however I am unsure if the front axle can handle the 37s. I believe the front is a Dana30 and the rear is a Dana44.

What are the necessary modifications to run 37s i.e.. 5:13s, ball joints, driveshaft..etc?

I have a 2.5" RK Max Travel System w/ 1" puck spacers.

Cheers!

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Old 07-30-2014, 10:33 AM   #2
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Can they, sure... BUT it depends on how you drive. Rough rock crawling will most likely result in broken parts. Just running down the road, it should survive. You will wear bearings and ball joints faster than normal, but they wear out anyhow.
Ideally you would add "C" trusses. You'll also need to trim the fenders.

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Old 07-30-2014, 01:32 PM   #3
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Your Sahara axles can not.
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Old 07-30-2014, 01:40 PM   #4
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Your Sahara axles can not.
This. Unless you are willing to invest a large chunk of coin in an axle swap, trusses, regearing, joints, axle shafts, drive shafts, beefing up brakes and steering etc etc etc.
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Old 07-30-2014, 01:49 PM   #5
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This. Unless you are willing to invest a large chunk of coin in an axle swap, trusses, regearing, joints, axle shafts, drive shafts, beefing up brakes and steering etc etc etc.
I was actually more pointing towards the fact that someone who is unsure of what type of axle they have attempting to do something as involved as putting on 37s.

I would never tell anyone that the Dana 30 in a proper configuration could not run 37s. I actually truly believe that the 30 with proper gusseting and driving technique can handle it just fine.

Without knowing the OP's intent for the vehicle it is hard to guess at how successful they will be.
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Old 07-30-2014, 01:58 PM   #6
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Can they, sure... BUT it depends on how you drive. Rough rock crawling will most likely result in broken parts. Just running down the road, it should survive. You will wear bearings and ball joints faster than normal, but they wear out anyhow. Ideally you would add "C" trusses. You'll also need to trim the fenders.
Actually, it all comes down to this. There's no difference in the overall strength of the front 30.
30 or 44, you're going to want to gusset the upper C's at min. Then either truss or sleeve the tubes.
Next up axle shafts and ball joints.
DD, light stuff .. You're ok. Hard Rock crawling is tough on the smaller/weaker gears!
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Old 07-31-2014, 12:36 AM   #7
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the 44 just has a stronger ring and pinion, but not by much.


whatever you do, do not break your rear driveshaft and try to drive backwards up a hill in front wheel drive, ask me how I know.
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Old 07-31-2014, 04:39 AM   #8
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found this on line--sums it up pretty good--and I like pictures

DANA 30
Dana 30 front axles have a 7-1/8″ diameter ring gear and come standard on Sahara and X model Jeep JK Wranglers with a gear ratio of 3.21. For 2007, an optional 4.10 gear ratio was available on towing packages. In 2008, this was changed and the only optional factory gear ratio now available is 3.73. Dana 30 front axles do not come with any limited slip or locking differentials. Dana 30 axle shafts are 27 spline.

DANA 44
Dana 44 axles have an 8-1/2″ diameter ring gear and now come standard on the rear end of all Jeep JK Wranglers. Sahara, Sport and X models come standard with 3.21 gear ratio. In 2007, optional towing packages were available with a 4.10 gear ratio. In 2008, the only optional factory gear ratio available is now 3.73. A limited slip differential is available as an option and as of 2008, a selectable electric locking differential is available as an option as well. All Rubicon model Jeep JK Wranglers come standard with front and rear Dana 44 axles, a 4.10 gear ratio and selectable electric locking differentials. Dana 44 axle shafts are 30 spline.

Here's a pic I took to help give you a better idea of ring gear size differences:



And, here's a couple of pics I took to help give you a better idea of axle shaft size differences:

Shafts


Stub Shafts

Thank you for all the details !
Guess Dana 60 is the way to go if you are thinking of running 37s !

For Dana 44 enhancement would you go with the 14 bolt truss or the sleeve and the gussets reinforced ?
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Old 07-31-2014, 08:06 AM   #9
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RDG04578 and KJEEPER10,

Thanks for the quick explanation, and I appreciate your comments. It pretty much sums up what I was looking for. I was considering on gusseting the upper C's even when going to 35s.

The JKU2013 is a DD and weekend warrior. (Medium Trails, Bushwacking, Overlander Type) Unfortunately, where I live there aren't to many rocks to climb. (North East)

Cheers,

Conrad
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Old 07-31-2014, 08:15 AM   #10
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I run 37s on a 30 , I will tell you this leave yourself a week point if you go this route

Me 5.13 gears , sleeve and gusset and BJ's I still run my stock shafts because I rather loose one of those instead of a R&P

Now also because of the 37s you will wear out your tie rod , drag link faster and possibly break some other stuff because of weight
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Old 07-31-2014, 08:18 AM   #11
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Thanks Jaker,

I figured new tie rod and drag link would be in order.

Does anyone have pics and recommendations of their sleeve and gussets?
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Old 07-31-2014, 08:23 AM   #12
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Thanks Jaker,

I figured new tie rod and drag link would be in order.

Does anyone have pics and recommendations of their sleeve and gussets?
Gussets whoever you like just make sure top and bottom and most people truss now because sleeves you can only run certain shafts
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Old 07-31-2014, 09:54 AM   #13
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Gussets whoever you like just make sure top and bottom and most people truss now because sleeves you can only run certain shafts
Great point.

Artec sells a kit which includes truss, upper/lower C gussets, lower Ca gussets and choice of stock/raised TB bracket. Awesome kit for $250 (less on sale)
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Old 07-31-2014, 09:57 AM   #14
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Do not even try unless you swap. Unfortunately the Sahara model has the worst axles that come on a jeep. Run 33s or swap out the axles.
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Old 07-31-2014, 10:02 AM   #15
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Do not even try unless you swap. Unfortunately the Sahara model has the worst axles that come on a jeep. Run 33s or swap out the axles.
How are they worse?
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Old 07-31-2014, 10:04 AM   #16
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How are they worse?
Someone said it on the internet, it has to be true even though there are 100s if not 1000s of people on this forum with 35s on stock axles.
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Old 07-31-2014, 10:07 AM   #17
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Great point. Artec sells a kit which includes truss, upper/lower C gussets, lower Ca gussets and choice of stock/raised TB bracket. Awesome kit for $250 (less on sale)
I just did this to my rig. Plan on pulling whole axle housing off your Jeep. You're gonna need at least 1 welding blanket to allow axle to cool slowly to prevent warping. I also did Ball Joints that way when you're doing the gussets you do not have to worry about your ball joints melting. Drain your diff when your welding the truss, and have a mapp gas torch for preheating the diff itself. If you think your axle housing is bent at all forget about the sleeves it'll be an extreme PITA to get sleeves in and out. But it's a VERY solid design. I also run RCV's up front.
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Old 07-31-2014, 10:08 AM   #18
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Someone said it on the internet, it has to be true even though there are 100s if not 1000s of people on this forum with 35s on stock axles.
Maybe my driving then. And all my people. I've seen those axles pop in parking lots. Let along the mud holes. But I'm also know to "go ham". So it's probably just me.
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Old 07-31-2014, 10:19 AM   #19
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The nannies on this forum are ridiculous. You don't need dana 60s to run 37s. Armor it up with gussets and sleeves/trusses, regear, and be prepared to replace parts as they wear out.
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Old 07-31-2014, 10:57 AM   #20
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found this on line--sums it up pretty good--and I like pictures

DANA 30
Dana 30 front axles have a 7-1/8″ diameter ring gear and come standard on Sahara and X model Jeep JK Wranglers with a gear ratio of 3.21. For 2007, an optional 4.10 gear ratio was available on towing packages. In 2008, this was changed and the only optional factory gear ratio now available is 3.73. Dana 30 front axles do not come with any limited slip or locking differentials. Dana 30 axle shafts are 27 spline.

DANA 44
Dana 44 axles have an 8-1/2″ diameter ring gear and now come standard on the rear end of all Jeep JK Wranglers. Sahara, Sport and X models come standard with 3.21 gear ratio. In 2007, optional towing packages were available with a 4.10 gear ratio. In 2008, the only optional factory gear ratio available is now 3.73. A limited slip differential is available as an option and as of 2008, a selectable electric locking differential is available as an option as well. All Rubicon model Jeep JK Wranglers come standard with front and rear Dana 44 axles, a 4.10 gear ratio and selectable electric locking differentials. Dana 44 axle shafts are 30 spline.

Here's a pic I took to help give you a better idea of ring gear size differences:



And, here's a couple of pics I took to help give you a better idea of axle shaft size differences:

Shafts


Stub Shafts

Thank you for all the details !
Guess Dana 60 is the way to go if you are thinking of running 37s !

For Dana 44 enhancement would you go with the 14 bolt truss or the sleeve and the gussets reinforced ?
Current model Rubicon rear axles are 32 spline, while all other models rear D44 are 30 spline. There is a little more beef in the rear, too.
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Old 07-31-2014, 11:04 AM   #21
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Also, these are what JK axle shafts look like:

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Old 07-31-2014, 11:13 AM   #22
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Maybe my driving then. And all my people. I've seen those axles pop in parking lots. Let along the mud holes. But I'm also know to "go ham". So it's probably just me.
The Sahara has the same axles as any non rubicon JK. Although a higher number of them actually are 3.73 and LSD, so I guess you could really say they have better axles.
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Old 07-31-2014, 11:16 AM   #23
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Someone said it on the internet, it has to be true even though there are 100s if not 1000s of people on this forum with 35s on stock axles.
Oh I thought the Internet was never wrong. Remember New Year's Eve 1999?
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Old 07-31-2014, 11:40 AM   #24
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Oh I thought the Internet was never wrong. Remember New Year's Eve 1999?
LOL!!!!

So, I'm trying to make a list of mechanical parts that are a MUST when going up to 37s on the front Dana30, 3.21s. As mentioned, the Jeep experiences moderate trail rides on the weekend and is my DD. What will get me by, and what parts will fail in the next 5yrs that I should be aware of.

I'll begin:

Initial Investment:
1350 Drive Shaft (J.E. Reel)
5.13 Re-gear
Sleeves and Gussets
Trusses
Ball Joints
Tie Rod

Maintenance Repairs within 2-5yrs:
Wheel Bearings
Axle Shafts

Does anyone have any additional parts I should consider or maybe change my order of items from a "MUST" to a "Maintenance Repair" later down the road.

Thanks!
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Old 07-31-2014, 11:43 AM   #25
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You will need a new carrier if you are going from 3.21 to 5.13 unless you plan on doing lockers at the same time.
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Old 07-31-2014, 11:51 AM   #26
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1310 DS is fine.
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Old 07-31-2014, 11:51 AM   #27
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You will need a new carrier if you are going from 3.21 to 5.13 unless you plan on doing lockers at the same time.
Don't have the money for the lockers yet, and I will most likely just do the rears. I thought the carrier would be kind of a given. However, I appreciate your input and hope you have more advice.

Cheers!
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Old 07-31-2014, 12:06 PM   #28
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Don't have the money for the lockers yet, and I will most likely just do the rears. I thought the carrier would be kind of a given. However, I appreciate your input and hope you have more advice.

Cheers!
There are no "givens" around here.
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Old 07-31-2014, 12:10 PM   #29
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There are no "givens" around here.
LOL, I guess your right. It's better to be detailed either way. Thank you for your comments!

Any additional suggestions to make the JKU bomb-proof?
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Old 07-31-2014, 12:16 PM   #30
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LOL, I guess your right. It's better to be detailed either way. Thank you for your comments!

Any additional suggestions to make the JKU bomb-proof?
Don't take it off road. Never follow anyone who has tires larger than yours off road. The skinny pedal is not always the answer but sometimes it is. Keep all 4 tires on the ground unless moving slowly and in a controlled manner. Do not buy cheap parts. Spend time reading, lots and lots of reading. You probably will be able to fix "death wobble" by tightening your track bar or drag link. If that fails then check your ball joints. Protect your undercarriage. Protect your undercarriage. Protect your undercarriage.

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