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Old 12-11-2011, 04:11 PM   #1
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Can not decide 33' or 35' duratrac for 2012 sahara

I just put a teraflex leveling kit on this week, on my 2012 wrangler with 3.21 gears with automatic, with the new 285hp motor. I am putting on new 17 inch wheels with 4.50 backspacing. I just dont know if i should by the 285\70r17 duratrac or the 315\17r17 duratrac. I know the 33 ducatrac measures on vehicle at around 32 inch tall and the 315 measures around 33.6 inches on the jeep, with full weight. I just don't know which one to buy they are both pretty much the same price. What do u guys think. This is just my daily driver, i don't go off road much. I just mesured my stock tires on jeep they are around 31 inchs off the jeep they are 32 inches.

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Old 12-11-2011, 05:00 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by Dsmooth292 View Post
I just put a teraflex leveling kit on this week, on my 2012 wrangler with 3.21 gears with automatic, with the new 285hp motor. I am putting on new 17 inch wheels with 4.50 backspacing. I just dont know if i should by the 285\70r17 duratrac or the 315\17r17 duratrac. I know the 33 ducatrac measures on vehicle at around 32 inch tall and the 315 measures around 33.6 inches on the jeep, with full weight. I just don't know which one to buy they are both pretty much the same price. What do u guys think. This is just my daily driver, i don't go off road much. I just mesured my stock tires on jeep they are around 31 inchs off the jeep they are 32 inches.
I spent hours researching and thinking about 33 vs 35. In the end I went 35 and I'm very happy that I did. I can't say you'll be as happy with your 3.21 and 35's, just don't know. For me it came down something like this. Skip the wheeling part focus on the everyday. I only like lifted Wranglers. On goes the 3" lift. Put some 33 and 35 next to my lifted rig and well, 33 just looked small. So since I wanted a lift, it was 35s. OK, so real life, rides great, handles great, didn't lose much power or mpg, I'm happy.

Ps When I went to tirerack to pick up may 315 Duratracs, I almost switched to 275s, The 315s looked huge, glad I didn't

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Old 12-11-2011, 05:19 PM   #3
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Stick with 33's.

With 3.21's your jeep might suffer.
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Old 12-11-2011, 05:23 PM   #4
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I agree, unless you are planning on regearing, stick with the 33's.
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Old 12-11-2011, 05:29 PM   #5
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If you go with 35" for a DD on 3.21 you will loose a lot of power. Go with the 33s you'll still lose a little but not nearly as much.
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Old 12-11-2011, 05:36 PM   #6
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Don't have a JK but thought i'd come check out the thought process behind this choice, if any. I have 33's. Would love 35's but the only jeep club around here is 31 to 33. 35's with dana 44's (dont have and not in the budget any time soon).

Normally I wouldn't care about a club rules vs what I want but.. around here.. if I want to go wheelin.. you almost have to be a member. Almost nowhere here to go unless it's illegally! Next year if the club ends up not being my cup-o-tea.. I'm going 35's and I guess I'll be a traveling mofo, to find trails. Hopefully it works out and we have fun. Than I wont care about 35's if I'm having fun.
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Old 12-11-2011, 08:57 PM   #7
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was in the same situation,, i knew if i went with 33's, i would have upgraded soon to 35's so i just did it now, also did the regear because i was on the same gear ratio as you, so glad i splurged and got it done all at once, i knew if i waited, in the end it would cost me the same if not more,,
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Old 12-11-2011, 09:05 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by Dsmooth292 View Post
I just put a teraflex leveling kit on this week, on my 2012 wrangler with 3.21 gears with automatic
I just dont know if i should by the 285\70r17 duratrac or the 315\17r17 duratrac.
As most have said, if you don't wanna spring for the $1500 to regear (roughly), and more $$ to get a 2.5" spring lift (a leveling kit won't cut it for 35's), go with the 33's.
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Old 12-11-2011, 09:13 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by kbwwolf

As most have said, if you don't wanna spring for the $1500 to regear (roughly), and more $$ to get a 2.5" spring lift (a leveling kit won't cut it for 35's), go with the 33's.
That's the most obvious point. I don't expect your leveling kit is going to work on 35s. You needed a 2.5" coil lift at least, unless you also want to chop your fenders.
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Old 12-11-2011, 09:27 PM   #10
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Get the 315s! You may have to trim a little if you off road it but you should be fine. I also wouldn't worry about the 3.21 ratio as its been proven many times to be geared better than an '07-'11 Auto with 3.73s and plenty of people run 315s with 3.73 on pre 2012s.

You'll have "tire envy" every time you pull up to another lifted Jeep if you go with the smaller ones.
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Old 12-12-2011, 08:29 AM   #11
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Get the 315s! You may have to trim a little if you off road it but you should be fine. I also wouldn't worry about the 3.21 ratio as its been proven many times to be geared better than an '07-'11 Auto with 3.73s and plenty of people run 315s with 3.73 on pre 2012s.

You'll have "tire envy" every time you pull up to another lifted Jeep if you go with the smaller ones.
I agree with this, I had 305/70R16 and had tire envy and went 315/75R16 because of it. You will, however, want to regear though. I say do it once, do it right and don't look back.

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Old 12-12-2011, 08:35 AM   #12
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if you are considering buying 35s, just buy them the first time and add on to the jeep to make them work better. the only thing worse then having to shell out $1500 to regear is to have to shell out $3000 to replace your new $1500 tires and then decide theyre too small and buy the 35s anyways. The duratracs are light enough and run small anyways. Buy the right tire the first time
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Old 12-12-2011, 09:00 AM   #13
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No re-gear in the world will help you with 33' or 35'(foot) tires.
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Old 12-12-2011, 11:20 AM   #14
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At the dealer they are doing 4 inch lifts and 35s on new sport models with 3.21 gears. They say the new motor has enough power to pull the bigger tires. I would like to try one and see i have not been back yet to drive on. I just know that the duratracs in 35s are so light weight at 60lbs. I had 285\7017 hankook dnypros mts on my fj cruiser last year and they were so heavy. I think they were around 65lbs for a 33 inch tire. I am just wandering if i should step it up with a 2.5 inch lift. It just sucks that the duratracs in 33 and 35s cost the same price.
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Old 12-12-2011, 11:25 AM   #15
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was in the same situation,, i knew if i went with 33's, i would have upgraded soon to 35's so i just did it now, also did the regear because i was on the same gear ratio as you, so glad i splurged and got it done all at once, i knew if i waited, in the end it would cost me the same if not more,,
Can I ask...
Why not go with a Rubi and 4'10's out of the gate?
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Old 12-12-2011, 11:54 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by Dsmooth292
At the dealer they are doing 4 inch lifts and 35s on new sport models with 3.21 gears.
That means nothing. Dealers are trying to sell jeeps. 4" lifts and 35s look good no matter what gears are in the diffs. A regearing adds $2k on the window sticker and will in all likelihood make it harder to sell.
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Old 12-12-2011, 12:06 PM   #17
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. I just know that the duratracs in 35s are so light weight at 60lbs. I had 285\7017 hankook dnypros mts on my fj cruiser last year and they were so heavy. I think they were around 65lbs for a 33 inch tire. .
Now you have me wondering how this setup would work with duratrac 35's on the 15" MB72 (or "the combo" as it is now called)? I have the 3.73, and I am now wondering if these are light enough to work well with my setup. Also, if they do measure smaller as someone implied, this would likely work ok with a 2.5 BB. Is this crazy talk?
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Old 12-12-2011, 12:11 PM   #18
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Now you have me wondering how this setup would work with duratrac 35's on the 15" MB72 (or "the combo" as it is now called)? I have the 3.73, and I am now wondering if these are light enough to work well with my setup. Also, if they do measure smaller as someone implied, this would likely work ok with a 2.5 BB. Is this crazy talk?
Goodyear does not make 35" duratracs for 15" wheels.
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Old 12-12-2011, 12:13 PM   #19
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Goodyear does not make 35" duratracs for 15" wheels.
I figured someone would be rocking this by now if they did, thanks for the quick reply.
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Old 12-12-2011, 12:18 PM   #20
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I figured someone would be rocking this by now if they did, thanks for the quick reply.
I wish they did because it would give BFG a run for their money in that category for 15x8 wheels.
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Old 12-12-2011, 12:22 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by MTH

That means nothing. Dealers are trying to sell jeeps. 4" lifts and 35s look good no matter what gears are in the diffs. A regearing adds $2k on the window sticker and will in all likelihood make it harder to sell.
So who would buy one after a test drive if it was in fact slower than a snail? The fact is the new 5 speed changed the game with gearing. It has a much steeper 1st gear and O/D.

I agree it won't be as peppy as a 3.73 or 4.10 but it's all in the eye of the beholder. What you think is sluggish, others may not. How did anyone manage with Flathead V8s or non-turbo charged diesels. Sure it will do 0-60 in 12 seconds instead of 7 but it will look damn good doing it.
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Old 12-12-2011, 12:27 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gluestick

Now you have me wondering how this setup would work with duratrac 35's on the 15" MB72 (or "the combo" as it is now called)? I have the 3.73, and I am now wondering if these are light enough to work well with my setup. Also, if they do measure smaller as someone implied, this would likely work ok with a 2.5 BB. Is this crazy talk?
Ot oh
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Old 12-12-2011, 12:47 PM   #23
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Hey, you brought up the 35" thing first...
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Old 12-12-2011, 01:00 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by ranjr

So who would buy one after a test drive if it was in fact slower than a snail?
Plenty of people. When I was looking for my 2010, several dealers had 2010 Sports with auto transmissions and 35s on their lots. They always sold, even though many on this forum will (rightfully) complain about the performance of that set up.

The "fact is" that the poster I responded to was contending that 3.21s are fine for 35s based on the fact that he has seen dealers offer wranglers that way. My response was that this means nothing, which is clearly true--if a dealer is wiling to sell a 2010 with an auto and 3.73s on 35s, they are plainly not considering gearing. They want it to look awesome on the lot and sell it to googley-eyed buyers without having to have their techs perform a complicated and expensive driveline mod first.

Whether that poster is okay with the performance is a separate question. No doubt the new engine/auto on 3.21s will handle 35s better than the old engine/auto on 3.73s, but I don't think either would make me happy. For the new set up, I'd want 3.73s minimum or 4.10s for 35s.
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Old 12-12-2011, 01:03 PM   #25
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So who would buy one after a test drive if it was in fact slower than a snail? The fact is the new 5 speed changed the game with gearing. It has a much steeper 1st gear and O/D.

I agree it won't be as peppy as a 3.73 or 4.10 but it's all in the eye of the beholder. What you think is sluggish, others may not. How did anyone manage with Flathead V8s or non-turbo charged diesels. Sure it will do 0-60 in 12 seconds instead of 7 but it will look damn good doing it.
And on that note, what percentage of buyers take their test drive out onto the highway? I know that most every test drive I have been on the salesman tries to keep it short and sweet on terrain that favors the vehicle. My salesman wanted to go out on a 5 mile loop through some flat farmland when I shopped mine. I told him I had another idea and we went out for nearly an hour over hill and dale, merging onto the highway twice, and then passing a few vehicles over 75 mph. Sadly many people don't really "test drive" their new cars before buying. I bet you could probably sneak 37's with the 3.23 onto some Jeeps and the mallcrawler-bling-tastic shoppers wouldn't even think twice about the available power, they would be too busy gawking at the tires and lift.
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Old 12-12-2011, 01:22 PM   #26
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Any buyer that doesn't request to take the vehicle for a night can't be taken seriously. A 5 minute test ride doesn't show anything.
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Old 12-12-2011, 01:25 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by ranjr
Any buyer that doesn't request to take the vehicle for a night can't be taken seriously. A 5 minute test ride doesn't show anything.
How bout the salesman that has to drive with you?
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Old 12-12-2011, 01:26 PM   #28
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35's on 3.21 is not a good option. 35's add so much more stress and not having the correct gears to match just adds to it.
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Old 12-12-2011, 01:33 PM   #29
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Has anybody done the math on cruising RPM with the auto? I am curious if you would be effectively running a 4-speed auto at that point.

Engine RPM Calculator

I got something like 1800 rpm @ 70 mph in fifth gear. I dunno, to me that's pretty borderline but I guess you'd have to drive it to really find out. Hills and/or towing and such I have a feeling 35's and 3.21's will be annoying even with the new trans, probably about like 3.73's and 35's in a 2011 auto?
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Old 12-12-2011, 01:41 PM   #30
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The new autos final gears are so close to a manual which was on older models that you can just use the old gear chart for the new auto and be very close. The new auto on 3.21 and the manual will run the same.

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